hidepounder

I'm really big on using olive oil....I like the ease of application and the lighter finish I get. I still use NF, mostly because I have a lot left on hand, but I'm using olive oil more and more. I think Keith is spot on, with regard to the even and complete penetration. I think when I run out of NF, I might try some of the NF fromTexas Refining, just to have some NF on hand, but otherwise it's olive oil for me. Bob

I've seen them on Ebay, too, and thought they were pretty cool. However, being an advocate of tool steel (I've sold or am selling most of my stainless cutting tools), I suspect that the steel is probably not the most desireable for edgers and such. That's just my take on them... Bob

"To tape or not to tape", that is the question. I'm going to throw in my two cents worth. To begin with, I almost always adhere whatever I'm tooling to a piece of 1/4" acrylic. I have several sizes cut out that fit most everything I want to tool (saddles and larger pieces of gear being the exception here...those pieces are heavy enough and large enough that stretching is less of a problem). So, when my leather is cased and slicked and mounted to a piece of acrylic, I have a lot of surface on which I can tape my pattern down. I use the blue painters tape. Now, I don't have to worry about my pattern moving when I answer the phone, or respond to the commands of the General. My attitude is, that the more accurately I can transfer the pattern, the more accurately I'm likely to cut it, and lets face it, besides the actual composition of the design, cutting is easily most important step in tooling! Now, to stray a little from the point of this thread, I want to say that a side benefit of this process is, that during the course of tooling, if I need to leave the bench, I tear off a piece or two of plastic wrap and seal it to the acrylic, trapping all the moisture in the leather. It sticks right to the acrylic and makes a tight seal. When I come back, nothing has changed. My leather is just as I left it...or maybe a little more moist do to a little condensatioin. Additionally as a side, side, benefit (yes that was two sides) whenever I find I need to re-moisten the leather, sealing it in the plastic wrap gives the added moisture a chance to spread evenly through the leather, essentially re-casing it. So, while voting for taping a pattern in place, I'm also advocating gluing to the acrylic panel at the same time, which makes taping easy and results in several other benefits, aiding to the pleasure and quality of tooling! But wait...I'm not finished preaching yet...There is a side, side, side, benefit! In addition, because there is a rubber cement residue on the back of the leather, you now have to line it with piece of 2/3 oz (or whatever is appropriate)...which is what should be done to everything in the first place, to enhace the beauty and quality of the project, making it a truely proffessional job! Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! :soapbox: All that from taping down a pattern?!...I need a job! Bob

Douglas Tools 307-737-2222

Sure Gary...I thought HideCrafters and Weaver sold them, but you can always order direct from Bob Douglas at: Douglas Tools 307-737-2222 Sheridan, WY

Jill and I have had a wonderful Easter morning! She gave me a beautiful basket to put my Easter Eggs in.....one little hitch, however....my basket is still empty because I can't remember where I hid the eggs!!! Happy Easter Everyone! Bob

Like Bruce, I use a fine tip soldering iron. I pull the thread back against the last stitch and actually melt the tag end into that last stitch.

Hi Russ, Headstall looks really good! I would make one suggestion...I would like to see a better finish on your edges. Edges seem to something that we all hate working on, but IMHO, a finely finished edge is a more professional job and raises the value of the final product. Just an observation..... Bob

Your very kind, Richard, thank you...but those guys cast pretty big shadows. When ever I get stuck designing a pattern or want to do something different, I go and look at what they've done.

Thank you everyone, I am flattered by your comments! And if I can ever get caught up, I will try to do something on finger cutting...I appreciate your asking! Bob

Thanks Ben! I've been doing the breast collars off and on for several years, for the Verde Vaqueros and a coouple of other roping organizations out here. Thanks Pete! When I do finger cutting I draw a pattern to fit the space I'm going to fill...but I only draw the main cuts...the rest are just fill in.

Thanks Troy! Those ar given away fairly frequently out here...of course, no one cares abouot the cinches...they just like the big fancy buckles.

Okay, okay...I concede, you're right!...I did get a little carried away with that statement!

I haven't posted anything in a while, so I thought I'd put up some pics of what I've been doing lately. This is a repeat order, so if they look familiar it's because you probably saw last years awards in an earlier post. The cinch buckles were made by Red Bluff Buckles. The breast collars and cinches are both constructed from 10/11 oz HO skirting and are lined with 9/10 oz California latigo. The tug straps on the breast collars are lined and stitched, and the latigo tugs are doubled and stitched. All the hardware is stainless steel. All critiques are welcomed. Bob

Brent, When your leather is so wet it's closing up, then that's way too wet. However, you can cut when the leather is just a little too wet to tool, without any negative results...the cuts will still remain open. It will buy you a little more time when you need it. I'm not advocating cutting wet leather, I'm just saying you can push the envelope a little when it's advantageous to do so. Nothing feels better than taking a sharp swivel knife to perfectly cased leather, but sometimes a guy needs more time for tooling when the leather moisture is just right! I use color as a barometer more than temperature, also. Bob

Nice case Tommy! I really like your makers stamp on the tag. Classy! Bob

Tom, When the glue is dry it should be easy to remove by rubbing it...try using an eraser to get it up. When you've applied the glue to the leather, make sure you clean up any residue before on your glueboard before setting the second piece of leather on it. It shouldn't be difficult to keep the leather clean of glue. When you do get a little residue, after removing it, clean the leather with Oxalic Acid. Bob

Another great seat David! I like the color on this one, too. I've always liked the braid you use on the outside edge...what is that called and are there any publications which show how to do it? Great job as always! Bob

Another good looking saddle Steve! Pretty concho on the back, too. Bob

That's funny!!!!

Here's what I do.... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?a...=&pid=97005 Hope this helps! Bob

I buy Herman Oak thru Goligers. They do an excellent job in sorting the sides. They are knowledgeable, fast and very plesant to work with. I can't say how competetive they are because I haven't tried anyone else. I have never used Wickett & Craig, but I understnd that their lether is very nice to tool. Bob

In my opinion, the only stitch groover worth having is the Versa Groove made by Bob Douglas. The guide is easily removable so that it can also serve as a freehand groover. I would buy one of those and return the Tandy groover. I've tried the Osborne, Tandy, JW and a couple of others that I cn't even rememer the names of...Douglas' is the best. I do occasionally use a JW groover, but I have fitted a Douglas blade in it. Bob

Tom, I see improvement every time you post one of these. Decorative cuts ARE difficult! Especially as your knife passes from soft leather into compressed leather (where you've used a pear shader or beveler). The only thing to do is practice, practise, practise on scrap leather. Every piece of scrap you have should be covered with practice cuts before you toss it. You'll be surprised at how fast you pick it up and how much better your initial cutting will get. 99.9% of all cuts are either some form of a "C" shape or an "S" shape. Just practice those shapes over and over. I think you're making good progress! Bob

The drag felt when carving leather is the result of a build-up of crystals on the steel caused from a reaction between the steel and the chemicals used in the tanning process. The sharper the blade the easier it is to cut, obviously...it also makes it easier to remove the build-up on the blade when the blade is stropped! Improper stropping results in dulling a blade more than the carving does. When I'm tooling a large area, I often begin cutting when the leather is too wet, knowing that by the time I begin stamping, the moisture content will be optimal. Cutting leather when it is a little too wet is not a problem...but a dull knife is always a problem! I have yet to meet a beginning or novice tooler with an appropriately sharp knife. It's one of the things that's difficult to learn... when you don't really know what sharp is, you don't when you're finished sharpening! That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Bob