Jump to content

Hildebrand

Members
  • Posts

    405
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hildebrand

  1. @kgg hit it on the head on all points, nice assessment Kgg. Todd
  2. I use that same method, I keep some scrap around and make a piece the same thickness I am going to sew then sew a line of stitches on it. Does two things, makes sure everything is running right and it gives me a way to measure 3 stitches. I use my wing dividers set them in the holes and make a mark 3 stitches in on the project and start there and sew back to the start point then forward over the 3 stitches and on down the project. Todd
  3. Looks like a good start, 2 things I would look at when you make your next one is grip clearance, looks like it might be difficult to grab the grip of the gun, second is make sure you don't cover the magazine release. Todd
  4. I can’t help on the thread issue but, yes you have to back stitch to lock the stitches.
  5. I like the discussion @bruce johnson I will throw out there, slicking or burnishing really only matters to us leather workers. Most customers don't even notice the bright shiny, glass smooth edge on a piece unless you point it out and then they usually just glance at it and say, that's nice. Todd
  6. I use water and saddle soap, Don Gonzales has a great YouTube video showing how to do it. I tried all kinds of things before I started doing it this way and this is the best I have found. Still takes good square cutting and some sanding but makes edges you can be proud of. Todd
  7. Saw the beautiful work by @Stetson912and decided to give the pattern a try, I am not a floral carver so I went with a basket stamp. I really like the pattern it is a great fit for the weatherman tools. Todd
  8. One issue I have had with the Aquillim 315 is it is difficult to get good smooth edges. It's like it leaves a rubber cement type of substance on the edge when you are trying to sand it. I have not been able to get rid of it. Which is too bad because and odorless contact cement would be awesome especially in the winter since I have to go out to the shop to use the regular stuff due to the fumes. Todd
  9. Customer just picked up this holster. His son had me make him one a few years ago for a .41 magnum and he wanted one similar to it for his 22 lr. I have a love hate with white thread, if you don't die and finish before stitching it takes on the color of the die. In this case with it being lined I needed to sew the top edge before assembly so I did without it being died and paid the price when the top stitches disappeared in the die. White edge stitches still popped pretty good. He is tickled with it, I was able to use my 3-D printer to print his initials rather than hand cut them. The 3-D stamp is much cleaner and easier.
  10. @cowagonwheel I would ad a caution that leather harness that old with unknown care should most likely be retired for display only. Really bad things can happen really fast if harness gives way while pulling a load. You didn't say if you were cleaning for use or display so I thought I would throw this out there. Todd
  11. I got the logo as a .png file then used the adobe free program to convert it into a .svg file. I imported it into tinkercad and added a little text, I increased the height of everything then I made a base for it not as thick as the logo and text. Then I put the base on the logo, evened the top of the base with the top of the logo, this leaves what you want to make the impression with sticking out of the base, I combine all pieces then rotate it 180 degrees so it is lying on the base with the impression parts sticking up. This lets you print it without supports. Then export as an .stl file and you are ready to print.
  12. I just use regular PLA, for the depth I just experimented a couple times. I am not sure how many mm I am pressing it in. I will try to remember to take a picture of the stamp itself tonight and measure the depth on it. Todd
  13. I use 3d Printing to make 1 off stamps. I have been doing some prizes for events and I was able to get the logo from the event and 3d print a stamp to customize the prize. I did not print the makers stamp just the Mark Allen Hampton Stamp on the left. Todd
  14. I use a set of calipers to find that 4th hole, leave machine in forward but stitch back to the start point, stop the needle just after it starts back up and the turn the work around and stitch forward through the stitches I just made. I don't have to worry about forward and reverse stitches being exactly equal in length. I keep scrap around so I make sure how long 3 stitches is currently on the machine. Todd
  15. I have never done any saddle work but could you countersink a tee nut from the other side and use a machine screw? Todd
  16. I have no experience in this area but I wonder if that is a straight press mold and no additional hand tool usage. Todd
  17. Great explanation Dwight, your picture made me take a second look, I thought I was looking at my bench. Minus the grease I have that same splitter and that same plastic mat on my bench. Like they say great minds think alike. Todd
  18. Nice looking rig. I have a scabbard for a single shot pistol on my bench most of the way finished that I used that same hobby lobby foam for fit up. You are right that is a really big piece of leather if it turns out to be an oops.
  19. I would start by lengthening the stitches out(decreasing the stitches per inch) so you can easier see what you have going on, then use different color top and bottom thread then you can see if the knot is pulling to the top or the bottom. Just guessing from the picture, because it appears stitches are missing which I assume got pulled through. This is usually too much bobbin tension but the very short stitch length can contribute to pulling through as well.
  20. What @Dwight said, I use this method and have not had any issues with it. Todd
  21. @nstarleather I think those that mention a minor discrepancy like that would quickly go on the I am to busy to make your item list. Hand made items will vary in dimensions, they need to relax a little. Todd
  22. @Cumberland HighpowerI use it and it is no odor. The only negative I have had is sometimes it leaves a rubber cement like compound that balls up when you are trying to slick the edges. I have not yet found a fix for that so I don't use it as often as I would like to because of the no odor. Todd
  23. I agree 100% with @Dwight. The first time I saw this I thought it was down for maintenance or something, then it just stayed. Todd
  24. Thank you, I looked and missed that category. Todd
×
×
  • Create New...