Hildebrand

I am struggling to get edges to dyed to match the surface of projects, particularly with light colored dies. Dark brown and black seem to cover fine but I haven't found the trick with light brown. Any tips appreciated, I am evening the edges, beveling, sanding and slicking with saddle soap then dying. Thank you for any tips. Todd

Basket stamping, I have to really talk to myself along the edges especially if the object is not perfectly square. More often then not I end up putting an impression where I don't want it. I also second the no response to help/advice offered. If I try once to help and there is no response back(positive or negative) then I just pass on by the next time that individual is asking. I don't see that as much on this board as I do on other social media platforms. Todd

If it’s a pattern I have downloaded or can scan I print it onto the clear overhead transparencies and trace it with a stylus. I get pretty much unlimited use out of them.

Looks good!

The heavy brown paper they sell at home improvement stores for protecting the floor during renovations works good too. It is not as stiff as manilla folders but it comes in rolls 3 feet wide so no piecing together. Todd

Hags, not to go to far down the rabbit hole, but if someone wants something that is a bad idea, especially on a holster. It is better to walk away than end up on the wrong end of things if something bad happens. If something happens and she is not able to get that strap undone and she is injured or worse because of that do you think they will remember thats what they wanted, or will a lawyer help them decide that your design was flawed and you are at least partially responsible.

I am the same as Dwight. I tried using the water based Renia contact cement since it did not have the fumes and I could use it in the house but I had trouble with getting the same finish on the edges as I do with the Weldwood.

If you already wet it and it won't stretch enough there probably is no fix for it. I have done the same with holsters and have never been able to get one that is to small to stretch enough to fit. Todd

I roll mine grain side in and store them vertically in a pantry cabinet. I keep the door shut to keep the sun off. Todd

I second @chuck123wapati I have used the instructions in there to make 1 rifle scabbard and 2 scabbards for Thompson Center Single Shot pistols with scopes on them. The formulas he has work. Todd

@Tim Schroeder we get it you have an axe to grind but for peats sake give it a rest. If you don't like what the Facebook group has to say leave it but you are wasting bandwidth with your constant bashing of virtually everything except @Patrick1 and @RockyAussie. I have looked at the offerings and yes the narrow plates and feed dogs are going to be a great addition to the 441 cloan world but let it happen and quit harping on what others have to say that you don't agree with. I for one bought the premium package from @CowboyBob with my CB4500 and am perfectly happy with it.

Line it with light weight leather.

Merry Christmas everyone, I am northeast of Chuck, we are at -16 after an overnight low of -30. Todd

I am very interested in something like this. Do you have any plans to produce and sell these? Thank you, Todd

Nice work Chuck, I like the outside the box thinking on the sheath and beautiful knife. Todd

Meandering or serpentine stamp. I’m still working on the double bead part. Thank you for the kind words. Todd

This is the most recent holster off of my bench. I wanted a cross draw holster for a 5" Ruger Redhawk, this is what I came up with. I also have been working on a prototype sling for single shot pistols(TC Contender, XP 100, etc). Todd

@tsunkasapa what weight are the poly mallets you are using.

I was just wondering what weight of poly maul everyone is using to stamp with? I have the Tandy rawhide mallet but I think especially for basketstamping I would like something heavier. I usually have to hit the stamp more than once even with the leather cased well. Thank you, Todd

@Frodo it could be the compass but I think it is more likely that as you were going around one of the pieces you were not able to keep the compass perfectly perpendicular to the edge. As you travel along the leather if one leg gets ahead of the other it changes the actual distance between them, this is particularly tough on corners. This might save you buying an expensive tool that might not change the outcome. Todd

Not yet. It’s still on my list to do. Todd

@chrisashits very common over here for people to put their name on their belt especially people in the western culture. I made belts for my 2 and 5 year old granddaughters and put their names on them. I realize your post is in jest but when poking fun of others it really plays better if you don't have grammar mistakes in your post( their-ownership vs there-location). Todd

@Rahereyou are right and we cannot control the eb and flow of a waistline. But, I tell people when I make a belt for them, especially if it has a name on it, that it is designed so that everything is centered when worn in the center hole with the same buckle it was measured with. I make sure to either do the measurement on the person or they take a picture of their existing belt with a tape next to it, I do not do a call in order that they have measured themselves, to many horror stories on this board and others Todd.

The big reason I line holsters and belts is the added stiffness it adds. If you have the same weight leather, 16 oz for example for a belt, a combination of 2- 8 oz pieces or a 12 and 4 oz piece will be noticeably stiffer, when glued and stitched together, than a piece of 16 oz leather. For holsters I also like to line them since it makes the inside smooth too. Todd

@Loudcherokeefor all practical purposes yes. Best thing to do is look and which dealer is closest to you to save on shipping. All 3 dealers have a presence on this forum and are very helpful. I bought my CB 4500 from Bob and the deal was extremely smooth. Todd