Hildebrand

I have done it both ways and I Ike Dwight’s way. It’s a nice channel to lay the thread in. Tidd

Try this Renia Aquilim 315 Cement. It is a contact cement that is water based and does allow just a little movement as you place the pieces. I have not had any problems with items coming apart. Todd

Let me throw a different idea your way for multiple sizes of loops on the same belt. I am about to start my prototype gun belt for guys with more than one gun they like to carry. On the left side for the loops I am going to put a set of Pull the Dot snaps on. Then I am going to make individual sets of either 6 or 12 loops in the different calibers I carry that can be snapped on depending on which gun I am carrying. Little different idea for the same purpose. Todd

Advice above is spot on, contact the dealer. If you want to look into it. Stand behind the machine and lift the pressor foot with the handle while watching the linkage that goes across to where foot lift chain attaches. With the foot locked up see if you can move the piece the chain pulls on, it should move easy if the foot is already locked up. Try these and let us know what you find. Todd

Thank you both for your answers. Dwight how far do you usually put the loop from the end of the left side? Todd

I am starting my first Ranger style belt and was wondering what the general consensus is for overlap of the wide piece of the belt. I know I will need to size the billets so I have some wiggle room but am wondering what everyone shoots for for the wide belt. I was thinking around and inch maybe 2 but don't want to get to carried away since it will be double layered so doubling that will be pretty thick. Thanks Todd

The loops allow the leather to flex out so that the loops can go around the belt. On the one pictured the ears have to pull out the width of the gun before the loops can go over the pants and around the belt. Todd

Chuck I have an extra coal forge if you are interested I can send some pictures tomorrow. Once the hysteria dies down we could figure out how to get together. Todd

@wayner Tony is with Springfield leather which I have had good luck with. Weaver is the one with poor customer service. Todd

I think it is just under 1/2". I used a drill bit and enlarged it so that I could put it on a Harbor Freight Buffer motor. Todd

@gunny5821 I called to get Weaver’s catalog but by the time the girl on the phone got done telling me what I could Not get as a hobbiest and showing absolutely no interest in gaining me as a customer I told her to keep her catalog. I have had good luck with Montana Leather and Springfield Leather. I have used Tandy for in person buys but my last several Tandy visits the leather quality was way down. Todd

Round point needles are for webbing and such. Chisel point are for leather. I use the chisel point needles. Todd

@Bert51 what are you sewing with? I have never seen this mentioned in any sewing machine threads before. Todd

I have never had it cut the thread. I currently have a CB 4500 and previously used a Tippmann Boss. Todd

I apply with a 1” sponge paint brush no issues with dye removal. Todd

What measurements would you like? I put it on top of a Ruger SR 1911 and other than the rail it is identical. I will get some pictures in just a bit. Todd

Let me look when I get home I have a 1911 with a front rail, I just an not sure which manufacture. I would be glad to part with it at a decent price or trade for a straight full size 1911 mold. Todd

Cutting Resolene 50:50 was widely reported on this forum as the best way to apply it so I tried it and it worked well so I have never tried full strength. Todd

The basics for me would be whatever color die you are using, saddle soap, contact cement and resolene. I prefer the Fieblings Pro dies, I tired and Eco Flo all in one die and finish that was given to me and was not impressed. My preference for contact cement is, Renia Aquilim 315 Cement, it is odorless and works just as well as the wildwood or barges in my opinion. Finish wise I have had good luck with both Resolene and Mop and Glo both cut 50:50 with water I use a sponge paint brush and put on light coats. I use the Fieblings saddle soap that comes in the tin that looks like oversized shoe polish, I rub it on the edges after sanding with 100, 220 and 400 grit sandpaper. Todd

Butch's product is first rate as is his customer service. I bought a set of both 1" and 3/4" and it really is the cat meow for centering the belt holes. Todd

@Stitchaholic have you tried turning it over and running it the other direction? They are only sharp on one edge and will only cut going one direction. Todd

Former Boss user, current Cowboy 4500 user here. The Boss will do what you want but the short throat becomes an issue frequently. Also I think the support for the Cowboy Outlaw will probably be better through their network of dealers. Honestly I would look closely at the Cowboy class 3 machine, not sure what the number is 3200 I think. Cost wise I don't think you are real far from the cost of the Outlaw and you have a much better machine. The hand stitch machines can be difficult to maneuver, its amazing how often you need that second hand to hold the threads or the object itself while sewing. Todd

I think there was thread on here not to long ago that said Tandy had cut ties with Tippman. If I were looking at a hand powered sewing machine I would look to the Cowboy Outlaw. Full disclosure I have no experience with the Outlaw but I did use a Boss for about a year. The short throat on the Boss becomes an issue fairly often. Also you would have the support of the Cowboy Dealer network and if you search this forum you will see it is highly regarded. My experience with Tippman was not stellar. My communication with them was difficult, it seemed like there was really only one guy who could really help you and you had to wait for him to call you. Todd

This seems to have been about a year in coming. I live in WY and have been to 3 Tandys in Denver, CO, 1 in Cheyenne, WY, Billings, MT and Rapid City, SD in the past year. The leather quality was below even what you normally see at a Tandy. Straps in particular appeared to be old stock it was like the warehouse was just shipping to the stores what it had and nothing new was coming in. I also noticed that they were down to just a few stores on the web. Fortunately Montana Leather is in Billings and on my radar for my next trip.

You will get plenty of responses to use Barge or Weldwood contact cement, these work I used Weldwood until I found the Aquila(spelling may be off) water based contact cement. I use it exclusively now, I can use it in the house as it is odorless and non flammable. I can not tell the difference between it and Weldwood. All of my holsters are lined and I have not had any issues with the layers separating. Todd