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Everything posted by Hildebrand

  1. Chuck I have an extra coal forge if you are interested I can send some pictures tomorrow. Once the hysteria dies down we could figure out how to get together. Todd
  2. @wayner Tony is with Springfield leather which I have had good luck with. Weaver is the one with poor customer service. Todd
  3. I think it is just under 1/2". I used a drill bit and enlarged it so that I could put it on a Harbor Freight Buffer motor. Todd
  4. @gunny5821 I called to get Weaver’s catalog but by the time the girl on the phone got done telling me what I could Not get as a hobbiest and showing absolutely no interest in gaining me as a customer I told her to keep her catalog. I have had good luck with Montana Leather and Springfield Leather. I have used Tandy for in person buys but my last several Tandy visits the leather quality was way down. Todd
  5. Round point needles are for webbing and such. Chisel point are for leather. I use the chisel point needles. Todd
  6. @Bert51 what are you sewing with? I have never seen this mentioned in any sewing machine threads before. Todd
  7. I have never had it cut the thread. I currently have a CB 4500 and previously used a Tippmann Boss. Todd
  8. I apply with a 1” sponge paint brush no issues with dye removal. Todd
  9. What measurements would you like? I put it on top of a Ruger SR 1911 and other than the rail it is identical. I will get some pictures in just a bit. Todd
  10. Let me look when I get home I have a 1911 with a front rail, I just an not sure which manufacture. I would be glad to part with it at a decent price or trade for a straight full size 1911 mold. Todd
  11. Cutting Resolene 50:50 was widely reported on this forum as the best way to apply it so I tried it and it worked well so I have never tried full strength. Todd
  12. The basics for me would be whatever color die you are using, saddle soap, contact cement and resolene. I prefer the Fieblings Pro dies, I tired and Eco Flo all in one die and finish that was given to me and was not impressed. My preference for contact cement is, Renia Aquilim 315 Cement, it is odorless and works just as well as the wildwood or barges in my opinion. Finish wise I have had good luck with both Resolene and Mop and Glo both cut 50:50 with water I use a sponge paint brush and put on light coats. I use the Fieblings saddle soap that comes in the tin that looks like oversized shoe polish, I rub it on the edges after sanding with 100, 220 and 400 grit sandpaper. Todd
  13. Butch's product is first rate as is his customer service. I bought a set of both 1" and 3/4" and it really is the cat meow for centering the belt holes. Todd
  14. @Stitchaholic have you tried turning it over and running it the other direction? They are only sharp on one edge and will only cut going one direction. Todd
  15. Former Boss user, current Cowboy 4500 user here. The Boss will do what you want but the short throat becomes an issue frequently. Also I think the support for the Cowboy Outlaw will probably be better through their network of dealers. Honestly I would look closely at the Cowboy class 3 machine, not sure what the number is 3200 I think. Cost wise I don't think you are real far from the cost of the Outlaw and you have a much better machine. The hand stitch machines can be difficult to maneuver, its amazing how often you need that second hand to hold the threads or the object itself while sewing. Todd
  16. I think there was thread on here not to long ago that said Tandy had cut ties with Tippman. If I were looking at a hand powered sewing machine I would look to the Cowboy Outlaw. Full disclosure I have no experience with the Outlaw but I did use a Boss for about a year. The short throat on the Boss becomes an issue fairly often. Also you would have the support of the Cowboy Dealer network and if you search this forum you will see it is highly regarded. My experience with Tippman was not stellar. My communication with them was difficult, it seemed like there was really only one guy who could really help you and you had to wait for him to call you. Todd
  17. This seems to have been about a year in coming. I live in WY and have been to 3 Tandys in Denver, CO, 1 in Cheyenne, WY, Billings, MT and Rapid City, SD in the past year. The leather quality was below even what you normally see at a Tandy. Straps in particular appeared to be old stock it was like the warehouse was just shipping to the stores what it had and nothing new was coming in. I also noticed that they were down to just a few stores on the web. Fortunately Montana Leather is in Billings and on my radar for my next trip.
  18. You will get plenty of responses to use Barge or Weldwood contact cement, these work I used Weldwood until I found the Aquila(spelling may be off) water based contact cement. I use it exclusively now, I can use it in the house as it is odorless and non flammable. I can not tell the difference between it and Weldwood. All of my holsters are lined and I have not had any issues with the layers separating. Todd
  19. One thing I have struggled with is moving to fast with tooling or other processes then end up not happy with the end product or I have skipped something. It seemed like I was in a hurry to get to the finished product. What I have done is limit my time in the leather area, I try to do a little each night but if I start to feel rushed or get the I have to get to this point feeling I just put everything away and stop for the night. I have found I am not missing important steps and my finished products are better. Might not work for you but I thought I would throw it out there. Todd
  20. I would mold and stitch this one the way you normally would. Then I would look at the stitch line vs the carving and modify the carving to allow proper fit of the stitch line and make a new holster. Longer process but probably have better odds of ending up with what you were shooting for. Todd
  21. @Constabulary I switched to the Aqulim 315 and have had no issues on holsters or belts. The hold is just as good as the Weldwood I was using plus this I can do in the house without disturbing my wife or blowing the house up. Plus I figure at my age I can't afford to lose to many more brain cells to things like glue odor. Todd
  22. @spurdude101 I think you may be overthinking it a little. To be safe maybe add an inch or so but the extra thickness doesn't really change much length wise. @Northmount no offense intended but the search feature on this site is not user friendly at all. Since I joined I have searched several times for subjects that I know I have seen in the past only to have the search come up empty or literally thousands of results. Neither is very helpful. Todd
  23. Depends on the intended use. Most any belt that will be carrying a firearm really needs to be lined to hold up. That said, I am not sure if I would do very many hand stitching them. The first one I did was with a Tippmann boss and I felt like popeye when I got done pulling the handle to go all the way around that belt. Todd
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