Hildebrand

I never used the stitching chisels but when i was hand stitching I would use a groover front and back then wet the leather and use a stitching wheel to mark hole locations front and back then I would use an awl to push front to back. You get a pretty good feel for where the point is coming out and rarely did it miss the stitch groove. Not sure if thats an option for you but I can tell you it was a lot less stressful than what you are trying to line up. Todd

For 1mm leather I would talk to the clicker die people and have them make you a mallet die that you can strike and cut your patterns out. I have one that is 3 1/2" by 5" and it works fine in up to 9 oz leather with just a dead blow hammer. Todd

i really haven't and I have not messed a bunch with the pressor foot tension. I did learn the hard way not to sew on leather that is the least bit damp. That will leave bad marks. Todd

@Kcstott sorry I was guilty of repeating something I read without confirming it. Todd

I use 277 top and bottom on my CB 4500. So far there have not been any issues and I screwed up and ended up with a couple belts that are 18-19 oz, it cruised right through those. Todd

For cutting I bought a large fabric cutting mat at JoAnns Fabric, it was on sale and didn’t cost much. Been using it for a year and no sign of cutting through and doesn’t seem to dull my knife much. Todd

I line all of my holsters, like @Dwightsaid it makes them much firmer and they retain their shape better. Plus I like the looks of it. I have lined some mag pouches but I don't think I will any more going forward, didn't seem like it improved things much. Todd

I saw an ad where Fiebings has a new line of non alcohol dies out. It said for places that alcohol could not be imported, here in the US California won't let alcohol dies in. Might have to order them direct from Fiebings or possibly one of the leather supply houses. Todd

I bought an identical one to the Tandy Pro one on Amazon a couple months ago. I only paid $170 so I was a little skeptical but once I got it I looked at the videos using the various splitters and it is the same. It came razor sharp and does a great job on what I have tried in it( 1 and 1 1/2" belt leather to thin it). You have to mount it solid but otherwise it is great. Might be worth a look. Todd

@JRP430 buyng by the square foot is generally the most expensive way to buy leather. I you are looking to do belts and holsters I would either buy a side of leather(Knowing the belly won't really be good for your purposes except possibly pattern making) or from Springfield Leather buy a single shoulder for the holsters and a 1/2 belt bend to strip the belts off of. The second option would give you the most usable leather for the money. Your question as to how many square feet is difficult to answer, it depends. A drop loop holster which has the holster and back piece all in one takes much more than just a fold over western style which typically takes more than an avenger or pancake style. Typical belt will only be say 2 to 3 square feet but it needs to be 50+ inches long by 4-6" wide.

Thank you. I am pretty happy with this one. Its the first one I used a piece Herman Oak leather on. It definitely is different quality wise and is much easier to mold and burnish than the Tandy double shoulders I have been using. Todd

Title says it. I have a couple belts for my granddaughters and I would like to sew them but I only have about 3/16” between the tooling boarder and the belt edge. Thank you. Todd

Look for a spot in the thread path where the thread is getting caught. Each time I have had stitch length issues it was because the thread was catching somewhere, usually on the back side around the pressor foot lift mechanism. Todd

For me it was when I got more serious about different kinds of holsters. With a machine I can do the sewing in 5 minutes or less and since this is just a hobby I have enough time to experiment. I am pretty sure with how long it takes me to hand sew I would not make any to just try something. Also I know within the leather world we all have an idea where we stand on hand vs machine sewn but in reality I don't think anyone buying leather products knows the difference and if they do they don't care. Some of them actually prefer the machine stitch since it usually appears more uniform. Todd

With a $1000 budget your best bet is to look for a used Tippmann Boss. They are not perfect buy you can make them sew and once tuned in do pretty well. Electric machines to sew that kind of thickness even used are going to be significantly more than $1000. Todd

Also moistue content makes a big difference. A few weeks ago I was working on a holster and I had gotten it wet to do something then before it dried out I started sewing, boy were the mark deep on that one. Instant dog chew toy. Todd

I have a plastic taper template set from I think Black River. There are 2 different tapers depending on the width of the belt but the length of the tip and buckle end stay the same for the template, I have not compared the templates to see if the one for wider belts has a longer tip length. I can when I get home tonight if you would like. Todd

I usually just use a stain applicator to wet the leather. I tend to get it pretty wet then let it come back to natural color then tool. I have only used the overnight in plastic method for wet forming and I have since found that just getting it soaking wet and letting it dry slightly works fine for that as well. I have been watching a lot Don Gonzales videos lately and have started using tape on my tooling projects, he has a lot of good information on tooling. Todd

I can't recall the author but there is a utube video of how to break down a side for the least waste. If I recall correctly the author cut off the butt portion so that the remaining portion was the correct length for belts, he referenced the same thing you are talking about in that if you strip it the full length you end up with a bunch of short straps after you cut to belt length. Todd

No tension expert here but it sounds like you need more top tension. 138 is smaller than 207 so it will not have as much resistance at the current settings. I would leave the bottom the way it is and adjust the top, if you end up needing more then you can adjust the bottom to be slightly less tension. Todd

If you can order it with a regular door instead of the double doors they usually put on the front of those it will seal much better. As to sealing it I would get a spray foam insulation kit and spray foam all of the walls and ceiling prior to any other insulation or interior drywall or paneling. That will go a long ways to keeping drafts as well as critters out. Todd

I have no experience with rifle slings but I would definitely plan for it to be 2 pieces. Getting a piece of leather 72" is going to be tough, getting a quality piece 72" will be nearly impossible. Todd

I use a 4-5 oz or 5-6 oz doubled for holsters. This makes a 8-10 or 10-12 oz holster. They are really firm and I have no issues with the tops collapsing back in when you unholster a gun, these are OWB only. I have not tried and IWB I don't think they would collapse even with the belt going over it. Like @Frodo said its your holster so you can do what you want. I like the lined holsters as there is no visible flesh side of the leather and there is some discussion that the flesh side may trap dirt and grit off the gun and possibly scratch it as it is pulled in and out. Guys that I have made holsters for have never seen the lined version and seem to really like that idea. Todd

Without seeing pictures everything is just a guess but even for a seasoned leather worker it would be difficult to add a liner and sew it in. Since it is well seasoned you would probably run into issues getting the glue to stick to the existing belt even with contact cement plus using the old holes to sew would be difficult at best. Best advice I can offer is if it is a keepsake then put away and only wear it on special occasions and get a new belt for everyday wear. Todd

The latest holster. Made for a friend. Herman oak 3-5 oz lined. Dark brown Fiebings die. Comments and critics welcome. Todd