Hildebrand

@Bert51 what are you sewing with? I have never seen this mentioned in any sewing machine threads before. Todd

I have never had it cut the thread. I currently have a CB 4500 and previously used a Tippmann Boss. Todd

I apply with a 1” sponge paint brush no issues with dye removal. Todd

What measurements would you like? I put it on top of a Ruger SR 1911 and other than the rail it is identical. I will get some pictures in just a bit. Todd

Let me look when I get home I have a 1911 with a front rail, I just an not sure which manufacture. I would be glad to part with it at a decent price or trade for a straight full size 1911 mold. Todd

Cutting Resolene 50:50 was widely reported on this forum as the best way to apply it so I tried it and it worked well so I have never tried full strength. Todd

The basics for me would be whatever color die you are using, saddle soap, contact cement and resolene. I prefer the Fieblings Pro dies, I tired and Eco Flo all in one die and finish that was given to me and was not impressed. My preference for contact cement is, Renia Aquilim 315 Cement, it is odorless and works just as well as the wildwood or barges in my opinion. Finish wise I have had good luck with both Resolene and Mop and Glo both cut 50:50 with water I use a sponge paint brush and put on light coats. I use the Fieblings saddle soap that comes in the tin that looks like oversized shoe polish, I rub it on the edges after sanding with 100, 220 and 400 grit sandpaper. Todd

Butch's product is first rate as is his customer service. I bought a set of both 1" and 3/4" and it really is the cat meow for centering the belt holes. Todd

@Stitchaholic have you tried turning it over and running it the other direction? They are only sharp on one edge and will only cut going one direction. Todd

Former Boss user, current Cowboy 4500 user here. The Boss will do what you want but the short throat becomes an issue frequently. Also I think the support for the Cowboy Outlaw will probably be better through their network of dealers. Honestly I would look closely at the Cowboy class 3 machine, not sure what the number is 3200 I think. Cost wise I don't think you are real far from the cost of the Outlaw and you have a much better machine. The hand stitch machines can be difficult to maneuver, its amazing how often you need that second hand to hold the threads or the object itself while sewing. Todd

I think there was thread on here not to long ago that said Tandy had cut ties with Tippman. If I were looking at a hand powered sewing machine I would look to the Cowboy Outlaw. Full disclosure I have no experience with the Outlaw but I did use a Boss for about a year. The short throat on the Boss becomes an issue fairly often. Also you would have the support of the Cowboy Dealer network and if you search this forum you will see it is highly regarded. My experience with Tippman was not stellar. My communication with them was difficult, it seemed like there was really only one guy who could really help you and you had to wait for him to call you. Todd

This seems to have been about a year in coming. I live in WY and have been to 3 Tandys in Denver, CO, 1 in Cheyenne, WY, Billings, MT and Rapid City, SD in the past year. The leather quality was below even what you normally see at a Tandy. Straps in particular appeared to be old stock it was like the warehouse was just shipping to the stores what it had and nothing new was coming in. I also noticed that they were down to just a few stores on the web. Fortunately Montana Leather is in Billings and on my radar for my next trip.

You will get plenty of responses to use Barge or Weldwood contact cement, these work I used Weldwood until I found the Aquila(spelling may be off) water based contact cement. I use it exclusively now, I can use it in the house as it is odorless and non flammable. I can not tell the difference between it and Weldwood. All of my holsters are lined and I have not had any issues with the layers separating. Todd

One thing I have struggled with is moving to fast with tooling or other processes then end up not happy with the end product or I have skipped something. It seemed like I was in a hurry to get to the finished product. What I have done is limit my time in the leather area, I try to do a little each night but if I start to feel rushed or get the I have to get to this point feeling I just put everything away and stop for the night. I have found I am not missing important steps and my finished products are better. Might not work for you but I thought I would throw it out there. Todd

I would mold and stitch this one the way you normally would. Then I would look at the stitch line vs the carving and modify the carving to allow proper fit of the stitch line and make a new holster. Longer process but probably have better odds of ending up with what you were shooting for. Todd

@Constabulary I switched to the Aqulim 315 and have had no issues on holsters or belts. The hold is just as good as the Weldwood I was using plus this I can do in the house without disturbing my wife or blowing the house up. Plus I figure at my age I can't afford to lose to many more brain cells to things like glue odor. Todd

@spurdude101 I think you may be overthinking it a little. To be safe maybe add an inch or so but the extra thickness doesn't really change much length wise. @Northmount no offense intended but the search feature on this site is not user friendly at all. Since I joined I have searched several times for subjects that I know I have seen in the past only to have the search come up empty or literally thousands of results. Neither is very helpful. Todd

Which Kimber compact? Is it the Micro? Thanks, Todd

Depends on the intended use. Most any belt that will be carrying a firearm really needs to be lined to hold up. That said, I am not sure if I would do very many hand stitching them. The first one I did was with a Tippmann boss and I felt like popeye when I got done pulling the handle to go all the way around that belt. Todd

Extreme level of talent. Beautiful work.

I have a similar set up. You have to be very careful with how much pressure you use. To much pressure and it’s not going to give a nice finish. That’s the way I combat the speed issue. Todd

@Michellleatherworks most of the accessories are available from the blue gun companies especially for the common models like Glock. I think you can probably get enough parts to replicate most gun configurations, the question then becomes how much do you want to spend to make a one off holster? Todd

I have no experience with this particular situation but business wise I think either a minimum first order(to insure you get your stamp paid for and some profit) or a cost share for the stamp would be appropriate. The minimum order route may get a better response because businesses are used to having to make minimum orders of items. Todd

@chrisash having picked up and set up a CB 4500 I am not sure how practical taking any of the 441 clones to use at shows is. Trying to physically get one to and from shows without damaging the machine or your body would be a monumental task.

There is a long thread on here that started when the Outlaw was announced and periodically updated but I don't remember any end users contributing. Honestly as a former Tippmann Boss user I would save the extra and get a motorized machine. Only having one hand to hold your leather when sewing is a bigger deal than it seems. I have sewn numerous items on my CB4500 that I wouldn't have even tried on the Boss. Todd