Hildebrand

I use a belt sander like the one pictured, mines not Harbor Freight but the same machine. It works great for getting all of the edges even on holsters but it does leave the edges slightly rough. Still much easier to finish by hand than to even them up by hand. I tried that this winter when it was below zero and I didn't want to walk out to the shop to use the sander. Word to the wise the belt sanders are very messy to use, I don't recommend using them in the house. I tried it and immediately realized the mess created was not worth the short walk to the shop. Todd

Make sure the wider tip will slide through the main portion of the sheath. Definitely use a welt, other than that it looks good. Todd

Thought I would throw my .02 on this. I received a letter from Tandy stating the new price roll out and I could pick up a gift card to refund my membership price or I could call and they would mail it to me. I called earlier today and what a circus. The lady on the phone tried everything to tell me I wasn't eligible for the gift card. Finally after the 3rd time I told her they sent me the letter I didn't just call out of the blue she said she would send the card and "not argue" with me, after she had argued for 10 minutes. I live 2 hours from the nearest Tandy and 6 hours from the nearest good Tandy. I am only 3 hours from the leather store in Billings, MT I think my trips are going to be that direction from now on. Really looking forward to the show in Sheridan in a couple weeks. Todd

Here is a picture of the ones I use from Home Depot. Todd

This is my first try at an IWB holster. Thank you to JLS leather for the pattern, this is a Kimber Micro in his Springfield Micro pattern. If I make it again for this gun I need to sweep the top of the front and back down a shade to completely clear the magazine release and squeeze the stitch line in at the very top a touch. I have a few issues with the sewing, I am starting to get on the same page as my CB 4500 but sometimes I still end up with a stitch where I didn't intend for it to land. Same with the presser foot marks. Any critiques or pointers welcome. Todd

The problem here is you have to have your snap location exactly where you want it before you glue the liner in. I just use a plastic screw head insert from the cabinet screw section of the big box hardware stores.

Not local but spent 3 years with a Boss. What kind of issues are you having? Todd

I just had the same thing happen with Strapworks. I needed some 3" plastic slides and they were the only ones that had them, it cost $7.50 for the slides and $8.00 for postage. Like above I just ordered more to drop the per item postage a bit. Todd

I am going to offer a different perspective. As stated above you really don't know yet if the cheaper tools won't get the job done for you. My personal opinion is there is a small percentage of people who tool leather that will actually notice the difference in the tools or people will notice a difference in the quality of their work based on the tools used. I would buy the cheaper tools learn the craft then decide if a more expensive tool will make the project better or would the money be better spent on additional tools, for me its been the money is better spent on more tools so I can accomplish more things. Maybe at some point in the future my carving/stamping skills will reach a level that the tool matters but not yet. Todd

I have watched a ton of utube videos and they are really hit and miss for leather. Stock and Barrel has some good ones but also some real clunkers. The sewing machine "review" videos I have came across are pretty lame no matter who the star is. I second reading the various threads here, if a machine is good you will see it and if it is not good you will see it. Todd

Just worked on 3 tonight. I use 4-5 oz for the loops. Todd

Looks good. What part of WY are you in? Welcome to the forum, there is a ton of great information here. Todd

Congratulations, no tips or tricks I have found yet. I just enjoy the heck out of mine.

Kbarker not sure where in MT you are but I would look to come to the Sheridan, WY leather show in May. There will be a lot of leather people and venders there so you could look at a lot of things first hand.

Not sure where you are at but I have had good luck using the disposable stain applicators from the big box home improvement stores they are about 3X5 inches and come in packs of about 6. I can get a much more even coat with them than I can with daubers.

If you are going to try this with the Dremel you will need to have a shaft supported at both ends, that will eliminate the lateral pressure on the bearings provided the Dremel itself is supported or the shaft attachment is used.

From reading and research on here I think most that mold first hand sew. If you are making holsters I would really look to the powered machines. I started with a Tippman Boss and yes I made some decent holsters and one belt, but since I moved up to a CB 4500 and have both hands to control the object being sewn I have been able to tackle some projects that I never would have with the Boss. Todd

I appreciate the time you all put in. I was just thinking it was my machines since I hadn't seen a topic like this pop up. Todd

Yintx, I will try to get a different picture tonight. Tugadude your right its a sandwich, I did burnish the edges of the small pieces where they go across the larger pieces but it just looks odd. I thought maybe there is something else people do different in this situation. Todd

I have a question, how do you guys finish edges that are different lengths? I am building a cartridge holder that will strap to the arm, the current version is 3 layers, front, back and the middle layer makes up the wrap around strap. On this version I burnished the edges of the top and bottom where they pass over the middle, it looks ok but a little off. I was wondering if someone had a different idea. I may look at making the back and the wrap around one piece on the next one. Thanks Todd

JLS, I lost the quote I wanted but I think the video you posted from Sam with the deep voice is the best information on making the "Flat Back" style of pancake holster. He shows how he uses a piece of leather to go over the gun at several points marking it at each one then uses those marks to lay out his sticking lines. Todd

There is a write up on here about the adjustments that have to be made going from the regular pressor foot to the inline one. I am pretty sure it’s not a cowboy vs Juki thing it’s the regular vs inline differences.

I think this has been discussed here before and the general consensus was that by the time you get all the measurements and spend the time printing the gun and tweaking it to make sure its exactly right it is just cheaper and easier to buy the blue guns. Todd

I am no expert but I have found that really slowing down and making sure the stamp placement is exactly where I want it helps. Also I try to stamp at a repeatable angle to a reference line, for example I have basket stamped a couple of holsters and I do 45 degrees from the vertical line at the front edge of the holster. I use a plastic triangle and lightly scribe lines to line the stamps on, sometimes each row sometimes every couple of rows. Also I have started using one of the round combination magnifying glass and light, this really helps with stamp placement. I have found both slowing down and using scribed lines when there is any doubt about where to put the stamp really helps. Todd

Thank you Jeff, that is exactly the one I was remembering.