Hildebrand

Here are a couple pictures of my latest holster, this one is for a friend who wanted to be able to take it off his belt without undoing the whole belt since he is left handed so I used 3 snaps instead of sewing the loop. Things are finally coming together. I learn something with each build. This one taught me to use contact cement not rubber cement for my edges, couldn't figure out why I always had a slight gap after gluing, sewing and sanding. Turns out the rubber cement was thick enough to notice. The die is supposed to be Fieblings Saddle Tan but I think my applicator must have gotten used for a darker die and put in the wrong bag, this is way darker than Saddle Tan. As always comments and criticism welcome. Todd

Has anyone used one of the programs like Adobe Illustrator with some thing like a microsoft surface with the pen and traced around the firearm? Just wondering how close this would be to actual dimensions. Todd

Looks good, like Bob said that stitching is a challenge and looks great. Todd

I am very much just a hobbyist. I have looked around my area and we have a couple leather professionals. Any holsters or other things I sell I make sure not to undercut them as long as my quality is where it should be. If I do sell something for a little less, I make sure the individual knows that is a one time price and point out whatever flaw I was not happy with. Todd

This is out of what I normally do but it looks like it is a completely different stitch. Yours angles through the and out the top theirs is only visible from the side not the top. Is it possible the leather top folds down to be sewn on the inside? Todd

You are probably going to have a hard time finding a pattern exactly what you need. If you have the Stohlman book it tells you exactly what to do to create your own. Basically you fold a piece of heavy paper in the middle, put the gun on it on the barrel, sights down. then roll it to the left, for a right hand gun, and trace around the gun. Add about an inch to the tracing rounding out the curves, cut that out and fold it over and trace around it now you have the pouch. For the belt loop you need to refer to the book, I don't have it right in front of me but it will walk you through the process.

For that particular gun, I would download the How to Make Holsters book from Tandy and make my own pattern. Western style patterns for revolvers are a great starting point and some of the easiest to make yourself. Todd

Thank you. That makes sense. Todd

I have been back and forth between the creaser and groover, I think I like the groover better. May be my eyes but I have a harder time following the creaser line than I do the groove.

What does the arm on the left do? Is it kind of a support piece? Todd

You can’t fix stupid but sometimes stupid needs fixed so they cannot pass the stupid gene along.

Just tossing out a suggestion, maybe need just a touch more pressor foot tension. Stitches look excellent on the double layer so I wonder if the single layer follows the needle up a bit if that messes with the stitches. Todd

No no terpentine, I got this recipe off this forum.

I like 50:50 beeswax:neatsfoot oil by weight melted together. Todd

I bought a bag of 1" paint brushes, there must be 20 or 30 in the bag. I only paid a couple bucks, I have started using the water based contact cement and rubber cement so the brushes can be washed out a time or two then tossed. I also have some of the plastic paintbrush looking sticks I picked up a Tandy, they are good for small areas but get tedious on large areas like lining a holster. Todd

Use the pattern offered by Jeff. If you cut it right and follow his stitch lines it will fit. Todd

@MarkCdub I just finished a product like yours except it has 6 loops across it to hold extra ammo when hunting. I would abandon the leather for your straps, I tried it and there was no way to keep it tight. There is more slope in your forearm than you think. I ended up using 3" elastic with velcro sewn on the ends for closure. I will add a picture of what I did.

Right now I would go to Tandys Leathercraft Library and download Al Stohlmans How to Make Holsters book. It is free right now. It will teach you how to make a holster patterns especially revolver holsters. Todd

Thank you for the replies. I tried it last night with the feed dog in place like @Ken Nelson suggested. Mine clears so I know it works that way I just need to fine tune things and get used to not having the lower feed help pull the leather through. Thanks, Todd

I have a couple projects that it looks like the holster or stirrup plate would help get the sewing done without things getting caught on the cylinder arm. I am curious as to how difficult it is to get the lower feed dog adjusted after you put it back in. I am hesitant to take things apart since it is sewing so nice right now but if its not real bad to reset I would try it. Thanks in advance for any tips. Todd

Looks really nice.

Generally that is a 2 layer belt. You cut around the letters on the top layer then die the contrasting color on the back layer and glue it and sew it together. Todd

Same here Tom. I figure they don't want anyone downloading them then reposting them somewhere else for free once this ends. Todd

Just curious why you would put the snow seal on before wet molding? Won't the snow seal reduce the amount of water the leather can take in. Todd

My most consistent die jobs have come when I use what are sold as stain applicators at Home Depot. They are a sponge with a fabric cover, they give a very nice even distribution. I gave up on the daubers, I am not sure if it was me or the daubers but things looked terrible. The neatsfoot oil does really help. Todd