chrisash

I spent a few years in the Gulf and Emirates, the problem is the whole of the emirate's only have about 9 million people who live there, and they have built Dubai up as a rich playboy area so quite unlike many other countries, high wages mean little need for repair type shops and i guess very few leatherworkers. Prices reflect the wages of the population and not the Indian workers who do much of the manpower May be worth importing a machine but guess it depends on the import tax, I still think a flat bed would have more chance of being available in Dubai than a cylinder machine and no chance of the US industrial machines You could ask around car repair garages who might know a upholstery person who could give you a lead

For that sort of weight but not much thicker I would suggest the 1541 would be the easiest to find in Dubai and fit your requirements fitted with a speed reducer the noise at slow stitching would be low. not sure if they would supply to Dubai but this company may be a lot lower cost than typical; Etsy stores https://buyleatheronline.com/en/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=buy leather online&utm_campaign=S - Brand - UK&msclkid=fa0bc5195c5b15514243a50447ff2020

You could make them in 3D using nylon Taulman 230 on most printers, should last much longer than PLA or ABS, and hopefully take more stress, nothing to loose and easy to replace if they wear out https://www.amazon.co.uk/Taulman-Nylon-Printing-Filament-Black/dp/B01MTK1JAG

Getting on for nearly 200 years with probably millions of skilled engineers working on making the best machines, and Brian is the only one with lateral thinking to come up with the solution, well done Brian

In the UK we tend to record Take off to Touch down and charge for that Taxi and engine tests are free. A good benefit when using main airports with long taxiways and runways, Engine hours are for the engine logs and checks

One big problem can be the sun bleaching the rest of the woodwork whilst the wood under the sleeve remains dark. Maybe not a great deal on rifles but shotguns tend to have nice walnut but the good side is they are not often out of their sleeves

Pricking irons do traditionally just have very short blades maybe 5mm at max whilst stitching irons have much longer ones to reach right through the leather often two layers at once, a pricking iron just does what it says , makes a small prick maker to give the equal spacing for the awl to follow

My question is who is in charge Staff like doing funny things with company vans, like seeing how fast they can go in reverse, test out their drifting skills, see how far they can go with the red warning lights for oil and water burning and so on

Looking around at hobby lasers and nearly all do not have a movable z axis driven by a stepper motor, you just focus on the surface and that's it With 3D printers and cad machines, they all have a stepper driven z axis and the price of steppers is peanuts If the lasers had a z stepper, then as you get further into the depth you could lower the focal point as you go to get deeper cutting depths, so maybe cut the first 3 or 4 passes at surface fixed focus then automatically adjust z axis up a small amount to keep focus at the new depth Just curious

You have the wrong domain name you have a poer rather than port

looks like a Consew 563 which is a cone of the singer 111w range, a nice leather machine

Please do not laser chrome leather as I understand it gives off cyanide gas which is not very good for long life, veg tan is fine

Thats impressive on the acrylic is it with the 3 or 5W laser

Here is a thread -Needle size chart, for your 138 thread you should be using a 135x16 needle size either 22 or 23 https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Could you not replace one of these double diode 10W output to shorten your cutting time, in the UK they are around £250 now which would enable you to check out over your 3 W model

Not sure about the first tension disk route but the check spring is wrong you need to pull it up and towards the machine so the thread hooks over the notch and then down to the spring (you will notice a fixed hook type bit at about 11 o clock the thread goes over)

Not leather but "Sailrite.com" do some great videos on using sewing machines all the techniques are the same for man made or leather so worth some watching

Try this link G type bobbins but i have never seen coloured ones there is also College sewing in the UK https://www.sew-europe.co.uk/product-category/parts/singer-parts/singer-111g111w-parts/

As a example, for many bags, wallets etc in both chrome and veg tan I tend to use V46,69, or 92 thread which is strong enough, mostly v69, I also go against most of the posters on here and match the colour to the material and not ther contrast method

That looks good, I also found the top run of stitches very hard to get right as i think its all gets quite thick up the top and plenty of seams to sew over Keep practicing

If I was in your shoes, I would break down on a spreadsheet what items you intend to make and the numbers of each you aim to produce along with specific requirements for each Wallets - 2-3 oz veg tan- + 3-5mm veg tan outers-15 month Most start with simple items and then progress to more complicated items, and whilst you may have a god starter customer base with your fire fighter teams, you will need to spend on marketing to others after a short time and everyone finds sales hard to get until established a name and so on that way you can concentrate your start-up machines requirements (flat bed/ Cylinder) and clearance under feet/ thread and needle size and grow the machines as you make more profit Link you may find handy for thread v Needle https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

See

Nice bag my only other comment is the rivet's do not look central to the straps width

Agree its not a assault on dealers but highlighting faults that have been found, so that hopefully the dealers and makers can bring in solutions, Advertisers must accept the good praise they get and the notification's on when there are faults

As its is a walking foot machine a lot will depend on the leather you are sewing and how thick it is, You do not want very scalloped feet and a lot of pressure as they may mark the leather, you best bet to to experiment and if the leather is marked ease off the pressure, as with all sewing machines there is no real easy way to sort out the tensions and pressure apart from experiment Here is a link to Bonded Nylon thread and needle size you may find handy https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html