kgg

1. Directly from American & Efird Canada 2. American & Efird Canada 3. Depends on the thread size and project 4. Typically three, Black, White and Brown in V92, V138 and V207 5. Approximately $70 CAD for a 1 lb spool 6. Bonded Nylon and Bonded Polyester and it depends on the amount of UV or harsh chemical exposure. kgg

I can see that as a market. I would just wonder how it would hold up to "road rash". I was thinking more for the average joe consumer and considering that in the UK winter average temperature is above 0 Celsius where in Canada it's - 15 and gets down to -50 Celsius without a wind chill factor. kgg

I would first try and cleanup the spot in the slot and put a drop of oil in the slot to see if the noise goes away. I wouldn't try and bevel the bushing as yet. kgg

Very, very nicely done. I would think the coat would be better suited for colder winter climates like we have in Canada and would probably be overkill for the UK climate. kgg

I would look at the roller bushing and if it has no signs of uneven wear I would reinstall it then I would coat it with some synthetic oil and see if the noise is goes away. If it goes away you know to oil / grease it more often. kgg

I viewed your video and would be interested in seeing the motor and pedal setup. kgg

Necessity is the mother of invention. Let those creative juices run. kgg

Here is my take of a mini nose table I designed about three years back for a Kobe LS-1341 machine and it's recently revamped version. The photo's are of it installed on a Class 341 Juki clone the Techsew 2750 Pro. This was designed using an autocad program and 3D printed using 3D870 filament. For these photo's I installed: 1) The table top to the cylinder arm by one bolt on the front, the red colored bolt, and a second bolt on the backside. A third bolt could be installed on the front as well. 2) A 1" raw edge binder to a swing-way attachment and bolt the swing-away to the table top. The two red colored bolts that hold the swing-away to the table top are screwed into brass knurled nuts embedded into the the table top. The swing-away that I like has an adjustable stop that bumps up against the front edge of the binders head. Most of the ones you see don't have this additional bar or the ability to install one. The features I needed for my needs. Table top: 1. Has to be very simple and quick to install or remove. Installation / removal of two bolts. 2. No flexing of table top. Surface area 5" deep x 5" from center of needle to the left. 3. No oxidation. I have a aluminum table attachment which requires periodic cleaning to remove the oxidation. 4. Super slick surface table top surface. 5. Table top has to accommodate all off the shelf inexpensive flatbed attachments that would be used on any standard industrial flatbed machines like binders/ edge guides / flat folders / hemmers etc. Binding: 1) Horizontal flat webbing/binding tape holder: i. Use standard flat webbing/binding tape or left over ends from small runs. ii. The standard webbing/binding horizontal tape holder has to be simple and quick to install or remove. Installation / removal done by tightening / loosening of one bolt. 2) Webbing / Binding tape Guide: i. The webbing tape guide cup has to be simple, quick to install or remove and fit all industrial sewing machine table tops. Tightening / loosening done with two bolts. ii. The webbing tape guide cup able to handle up to 2+" tape on the exterior when used with the horizontal tape holder or on the interior bobbin for small runs. iii. The cup's internal bobbin be able to be manually filled or removed then filled by the sewing machines bobbin winder and self adjusting for the width of the tape. kgg

Very nicely done. kgg

The problem these days is an awful lot of equipment regardless of price or it's label is coming out of Chinese factories producing the same or similar items with similar specs. Your Harbor Freight is very similar to our Princess Auto or Canadian Tire products up here in Canada. I have equipment from Harbor Freight, Princess Auto and Canadian Tire and it works quite nicely for a hobbyist without the hefty price tag of the supposedly better brands. Basically it comes down to the amount of use you plan on doing with a particular piece of equipment. Items that I'm are going use occasionally I will go the cheaper route and make do. Example: I just ordered a set of 10" End Nipper Pliers as the 8" inexpensive Chinese ones I have are hard on the old hands when cutting #9 rivets. The 8" work just fine on #12 rivets. I ordered the 10" off Temu for $9.99 with Free shipping. I could have gotten the same ones right down to the color of the handles from Canadian Tire for $45 plus sales tax or bought the brand name Channellock 10-in Construction Cutting Pliers from Rona for $67 plus tax. Since I rarely have to cut more then 20 rivets at a sitting the inexpensive ones will probably do. I agree. kgg

Here is a quick cross reference showing some of the various thread size standards from a reputable North American thread manufacturer ( A&E ). Link: ( https://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf ) My thoughts: I think the Cotton thread referenced in the manual was for Thread Weight not Cotton Thread Count. The Thread Weight basically came from a Japanese standard called the Gunze Count Standard which the US adopted but all weights are not equal. A 50wt with 2 strands (50/2) is lighter weight-wise then 50/3 but both would be labelled as 50wt. Thread and it's standards is a very deep dark rabbit hole. Depending a lot on which country or continent you are located. In North America the general rule is the US "V" size or the "Tex" size while Europe uses the metric system and their thread would be shown as "Tkt" or "M" or just a number. Then you have Canada where you have a real mix of metric, Imperial and US measurements depending on what country the item is being supplied from. Often thread is labeled in both metric and US standards. I use the "V" system which is based on size rather then the "Tex" as "Tex" is based on how much 1000 meters of thread weights in grams. If a machine can handle a #22 (140 metric) needle I know it can handle V138 (M20) thread in thin material or V92 (M30) in thicker material. kgg

Maybe consider get some extras or having a couple 3D printed. kgg

Looks like it does a nice job. All you need to do now is change the hand crank to a pulley and strap a servo motor on. kgg

I use a 3" round sanding disc and a wooden burnisher disc on a viable speed bench mounted buffer I got from Princess Auto. Works decent enough for my needs. kgg

Like @northmount said you should checkout that link and NO the groove side of the needle needs to be on the Left. You never said what type or size of needle you were using with what size thread in how thick of material, leather or fabric. If you are sewing leather you need the correct size of needle a 135 X16 in the correct size and for fabric you use 135 x 17 needles. There are a lot of other factors that can cause a machine to not sew or sew properly, top threading path to the needle, thread tension, how the thread comes off the bobbin, incorrect needle installation to name a few. It would be nice to see some photo's of how you threaded the machine from the thread spool holder to the tip of the needle. Chances are this is a simple problem that you should be able to solve yourself with the help / suggestions of members here. You should download a copy of the JUKI LS-341 engineering manual as the Techsew 2750 is a clone of the Juki LS-341. kgg

Definitely not right. Couple of suggestions: i) Remove the belt from the motor and remove the knee lift. Then hand-wheel it. If the noise is eliminated the drive belt was installed to tightly and or the knee lift installed incorrectly. ii) Re-oil the machine putting oil directly into the bearings and any place the metal touches. When oiling like a bearing move the hand-wheel so that you turn the part you are oiling a quarter turn and re-oil until you make a complete revolution. iii) Check for signs of rubbing of metal parts. iv) I would use synthetic transmission oil around the bearings as it will get into the bearing and provide better lubrication then sewing machine oil. v) Was this machine store for a long time or dropped?? kgg

My suggestion would be to remove the thread from the needle and lock the presser foot up. Then give it run to see if the noise disappears. Also have you oiled the head recently??? kgg

This link isn't working and here is the message I get when I click on the link: " This content isn't available right now When this happens, it's usually because the owner only shared it with a small group of people, changed who can see it or it's been deleted." Maybe try putting the link on youtube. kgg

Time is just a relative thing. Just a little longer for some. Not a pet peeve but more of a chuckle and a half. I sold my Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 the other day to a guy who drove 5 hours arriving on time. The guy brought his wife along which was fine by me. I had the Sailrite setup alongside the Consew 206RB-5, which is also for sale, in the basement. So off all three of us toddle to the basement door. Both of them liked the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 but he really, really liked the Consew 206RB-5. His wife asked what I thought was a simple question "where are you planning on putting the Consew". Without as much as cracking a smile he said "Our bedroom". Well off to the races the misses went, like a firecracker. It got so nasty I backed up to get out of the way. It got so heated he finally ask her in no uncertain terms to go sit in the "xxxxx" truck. The only reason I didn't throw the two of them out was I figured I would sell one of the two machines to him. He bought the Sailrite Ultrafeed lSZ-1. I can only imagine what it must be like in private when the two of them get going based on what they acted like in someone else house they never meet before. I would have liked to have been be a fly on the wall for that 5 hour drive home. You just don't know how people are going to act. kgg

Why that doesn't surprise me. I guess they got sucker once or twice. kgg

If your machine is a Model C or D machine it has a safety clutch. Try resetting the safety clutch. Another problem could be the screws came loose and it put the bobbin gear messing off or a broken tooth. kgg

Are you planning on using 90 degree or inline binders??? kgg

When it comes to table top attachments I have couple of questions: 1. How deep does the table top really need to be from the front edge to the rear edge? 2. How wide does it really need to be from the needle to the left outside edge? 3. What do you use the table top for? 4. What accessories like guides / binders / etc if any do you use with the table top? 5. What class of machine do you use it on Class 341, Class 441? Hoping for some good discussion / experience. kgg

What is your price range???? For holsters you need a Class 441 capable machine like say a Cowboy 3200 or 3500 or 4500. Another option would be a manual machine like a Tippman Boss or a Cowboy Outlaw. kgg

Good advice. kgg