kgg

This may give you some idea as to what they would cost new and from there you could decide what they would be worth to you. The embosser is from Ivan Leathercraft out of Taiwan and can be bought new on sale for $405 USD (https://www.ivan.tw/products/final-sale-professional-leather-strap-embossing-machine-1 ). A similar splitter to the one in the photo can also be bought Ivan Leathercraft for $350 USD ( https://www.ivan.tw/collections/machines/products/deluxe-leather-splitter ) What are they asking for the embosser and splitter??? kgg

Here is a link to a good chart that cross references needle size to thread size ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). I have owned a Reliable Barracuda, Kobe LSZ-1 and the Sailrite® Ultrafeed® LSZ Sailright with the their "new servo motor". The main difference would be maybe in build quality as the price varies from $500 to about $2500 CAD. These portable walking foot machines are in my opinion: i) not meant for leather work as they were designed to do sail repair work on the ocean. ii) in reality the take up thread arm isn't really meant to work consistently with V138 and you may run into needle to hook clearance problems using V138. iii) has a very small Singer class 15 bobbin. Those can be purchased off places like Amazon, Temu, Aliexpress iv) stitch length is not consistent and will shorten as the thickness of the material under the presser foot increases. v) increasing the lift can be done but there can be major drawbacks and takes about an hour of fiddling around in the head. I was able to increase the factory setting of a Kobe LSZ-1 from 6.35 mm to about 12mm but that little machine did one task, edge binding and was reset before I sold it. vi) the presser foot and feed dog are pretty rough and the original ones will leave impressions in veg tan. You can get after market smooth ones. vii) the holes for mounting edge guides and binding attachments may require the holes in the bed to be threaded as I have see that problem on a number of the Sailrite portable walking foot clones. To get your speed down you can add a Sailrite® WorkerB® Power Pack Motor System for about $300 USD ($450 CAD) but by the time you get it into Canada with the rate of exchange / shipping /taxes you would be looking at about $600 plus CAD. Which would be about two thirds of what you paid for the machine initially. Another option would be to add a custom speed reducer using the existing 90 watt motor and some inexpensive pulleys. kgg

And Happy New Year to everyone. kgg

That's a shame. But aren't knitting needles pointie on one end with some made out of metal (stabbing instrument) and isn't boiling hot water needed for tea (scalding potential). Imagine if you wanted to bring a class 441 machine to class someone could sew their hand to the machine. Damn bleeding hearts. kgg

Very cool machine, definitely made for volume and consistency not as automated as some belt machines. The way I figure it there are two basic levels of handcrafted just depends on the market you are going for: i) Belt blank cut and dyed by hand, sewn by hand, belt ends cut by hand, holes punched by hand and embossed by hand. Should command the highest price for a quality belt as each one of the same style will be slightly unique and the labor / skill involved with making it. ii) Belt blank pre-dyed, cut with a strap cutter, sewn by machine, ends and holes punched with a machine and embossed by machine. Provides consistency and improves efficiency which reduces the cost per belt.The drawback is the cost of equipment. kgg

My thoughts are the Artisan Toro 3200 is a class 441 machine with a chopped down cylinder arm as the original Juki TSC-441 machines have a 16" cylinder arm. When I was looking for a Class 441 clone machine, couldn't justify a true Juki TSC-441, I drove myself nuts looking at the specs of a lot of machines. I finally just went with a standard Juki 16" clone using standard readily available parts that can be had from a lot of suppliers and figured it would be a lot easier to sell down the road. That said if the price was right and it was in great shape it maybe worth a consideration. What are they asking for the machine???? kgg

The 14 oz is just shy of 1/4" and should be no problem. The max size of thread for your machine is V138. As far as whether the smaller bobbin will do your belts and slings is going to depend on their length, what size of thread you are using and your stitch length. A prewound bobbin of V92 will have about 25 yds of thread verses about 12 yds of V138. Probably not going to be able to handle that thickness of leather. Your machine is rated for V138 with a 135 X 16 X #23 or #24 needle depending on how thick / tough the leather is. Even though the #24 needle can take V207 you may have problems with head space clearance when using V207 in the bobbin. kgg

If I am keeping for myself I buy mostly new but occasionally near new machines. Based on my experience if it's a Consew or PFAFF they are going to be hard to resell down the road and you have to almost give them away.

The size 23 /160 needle is only good for V138 max so changing the needle up to #24 or a #25. However this maybe difficult as the 767 is only rated for a 134-35 #22/140 needle as per the spec. which means it is only rated for a take V138 in thin stuff or V92 in thicker /tougher stuff. The reference I used was the Duerkopp Alder manual located on page 8 ( https://partner.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/public/767/B_767_EN.pdf ). kgg

For the last six months in Ontario there have been very few used industrial sewing machines for sale and most of what's around looks like they were rode hard and put away wet. The cheapest prices are for the Consew and PFAFF machines as both have always been hard to sell at any price irregardless of condition or age. The ones that sell fast are the older Juki's and Singer's but are commanding a premium prices if in fairly decent shape. Then you have the portable walking foot machines like Sailrites / Sailrite clones and those are the easiest / fastest selling. kgg

The Consew 277RB-1 is about $3000 USD or $4400 CAD plus by the time the main dealer in Ontario adds other cost it probably would top out at around $5500 plus tax so the finial price would be $6200. For that price he could get a brand new Juki. kgg

Sorry to hear about your hospital stay. Wish you and everyone a Merry Christmas and a happy new year. kgg

The Consew T-1919 is just another knockoff portable walking foot sewing machine of the Sailrite LS. You can get either a Reliable Barracuda ( $779 CAD) with zig zag or a KOBE LSZ-1 with zig zag for about $500 CAD. Over the years I have owned the Sailrite, the Barracuda and the KOBE. The last one was a Sailrite LSZ-1 and it had their new "servo" motor and may have been slightly better build quality then the KOBE ???? I would not recommend any of the portable walking machines regardless of price but I can assure you you will not be pleased with either of them as first / only machine for leather. The main drawback is that the machine will have a small "G" bobbin. If the machine is in good condition with a servo motor in Ontario it usually goes for about $600 to $700 CAD. If you have to replace the old style clutch motor with a servo motor to get speed control then add to whatever price you pay an additional $150 -$200 CAD to the price. kgg

Yes machines can be expensive but: i) look at finding a good use cylinder arm machine that will sew the thickness of the material you make the bags out of. ii) look at one of the one armed bandits which range in cost new from $1000 USD ($1430 CAD) up like the Tippman Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw. Don't waste your money on the the Chinese patcher as they are just frustration generators. iii) the time saving would allow you make the same bag in a 1/10th or less of the time it took to hand sew with a lot less strain on the hands. kgg

I have never install one myself so I just watch a video of installing conchos ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-eW6DkCEk ). I am going to assume your concho's stem is also threaded so it is just a matter of finding the correct size screw for attachment. I would use a nut / screw thread gauge to determine the size needed. For the most common sizes I find the Chinese nut / screw gauge similar to ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007315188557.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.79e3ZdnIZdnIxM&algo_pvid=1aca4878-402f-4f94-9b21-d996454393f2&algo_exp_id=1aca4878-402f-4f94-9b21-d996454393f2-10&pdp_npi=4%40dis!CAD!23.62!12.99!!!16.13!8.87!%402103244817345326557723276e6b56!12000040228337903!sea!CA!3463193163!X&curPageLogUid=8y7oEuQnLAr1&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A ) are good enough. If the conchos were made in the US then you will probably be looking at Imperial sizes. If they were made elsewhere chances are you are looking at metric sizes. From the photo it looks like a screw in the 3mil range which is about 1/8" would work.If you don't have a thread gauge take a concho to some hardware store as most have a gauge by the nuts and bolt display. kgg

Nicely done. My only suggestion would be sew a seam about 1/4" in from the edges with V138 thread not so much for adding strength but to help reduce deforming caused by stretching. kgg

Beside what @Northmount has suggested I would move up to a #20 or #21 needle. I think that the thread is being caught by the canvas and there also maybe a very slight build up of wax on the thread which maybe adding to the problem. The canvas maybe being drawn down into the feed dog hole which can cause problems if that is the case you may have to put a piece of regular writing paper on the feed dog side and tear it off after. Even though canvas is a fabric sometimes you may have to go with a leather point needle so I would do a test seam and see if that solves the problem. Also what stitch length on your seam are you trying????? kgg

I do think from what I have seen and heard Sailrite provides good service, good manuals and lots of video's. I just recently sold both a Sailrite LSZ-1 portable walking foot with their new servo motor and a Chinese Clone LSZ-1 portable walking foot with just a 90 watt domestic motor. The Chinese Clone costs about $500 CAD whereas the Sailrite costs about $2500 CAD when you take into account shipping from the USA / duty /exchange rate /etc. The quality of parts appeared to be better but $2000 CAD better??? Based on my own experience if I ever need another portable walking foot for whatever reason I would not bother with another Sailrite. kgg

What system of needle are you using 135 x16x#18 (leather) or 135 x17x#18 (fabric). Should be a 135x16 x18. Have you tried a larger needle size as a #18 is really meant for Tex 70. here is a link to a good chart of needle sizes verses thread size, https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html . Like @DieselTech has said going from one type of leather to another probably will require tension adjustments do to the toughness of the leather. kgg

@dikman it is Spanish and says: You have to turn on the controller with the "P" key, nothing, there you access the programming commands. Then you continue pressing "P" until the letters SL (speed low) appear, then you press P again and 16 appears, there with the button below P you can vary the number up to 03 as slow as possible then you return to Turn off the controller until all indicators turn off. Then turn it on again and check the speed. painteramirezdaniel@gmail.com kgg

I think that a properly sized thread and a sensible stitch length would actually strengthen and increase the life of a belt. My Thoughts are: i) A 5 or 6 spi stitch line along the outer edges about 3/16 or 1/4" inch in from the edge would add strength and help prevent the belt from deforming. A decorative pattern in the center of the belt would also increase the strength and help prevent deforming. @Dwight posted a very nice photo of a belt that is about 15 oz that has both edge and a decorative pattern that is 20 plus years old. ii) Proper thread sizing in combination with a correctly sized needle for what the belts intended use needs to be selected. An example would be V138 has a breaking strength of 22lbs while V207 has a breaking strength of 32 and V277 breaks at about 45 lbs. iii) Thread maybe an important factor as the strength of the leather has many factors that contribute to the quality / strength of the leather. Is it Veg Tan or Chrome Tan, the dyeing process, the actual location it came from on the animal (shoulder, stomach, butt, etc) and the tanning company doing the actual tanning process. kgg

Na, just add a set of suspenders. kgg

It adds support and feels more comfortable to wear. IMHO a belt really depends on the actively of the person wearing it. i) dress belt be about 5oz, management where the belt just needs to match the clothes ii) daily light use belt about 8 oz, for someone with a more sedentary lifestyle like someone sat at a computer all day. iii) daily working belt about 12 oz to 14 oz, active lifestyle like a laborer I have made a few 13 oz belts that are 1 1/2" wide and made up of two layers of 6.5 oz that are glued and then the edges stitched together with V138. The people like them as they provide added support and comfort. I agree. I agree. kgg

I would go with someone who makes a Veg Tan leather belt that is made of two pieces of 12 oz or 13 oz that is glued and sewn together. I would forget about how thick the belt is and be more concerned with the strength / durability of the belt. I would suggest looking at something similar to the Rogue Oly Ohio Lifting Belt https://www.roguecanada.ca/rogue-oly-ohio-lifting-belt . A good belt is not going to be cheap and then again you only got one back. I was at my mechanics yesterday who has a bad back and he was using a cheap weight lifters belt that was made of " Genuine Leather " which is basically code for junk maybe leather. He paid about $50 and he was complaining about it as it was falling apart. You get what you pay for. kgg

Maybe a Chicago Screw maybe another alternative. kgg