kgg

The machine looks in decent condition. If it is in good working condition my max would be $1300. So you now have a price range of range, $1300 (me) to $1500 (Wiz). If possible like Wiz said do a demo and take along an item what you figure would be the largest lengthwise that you figure you would be sewing. That way you would be able to judge if the machine has enough throat space for what you want to sew. Also here is a link to the Artisan Toro 3000 brochure: https://artisansew.com/pdf/specs/TORO_3000.pdf kgg

This is a class 441 machine with a small cylinder arm having around 9 inch work surface using the 794 needles. The actual work surface maybe less it depends on whether it is measured from the end of the cylinder arm or the needle to the body of the machine. Having such a short work area may pose a problem with some items. A machine with a 16.5 inch cylinder arm would be more versatile. I think this model was replaced by their 3200 model costing around $2600 new. With other machines like the Cobra and Cowboy there are narrow needle plates, presser feet and feed dogs available to allow those class 441 machines to sew thinner items, closer to the edge, use lighter thread thread then the regular / standard ones will allow. I don't know if they will fit the Artisan machines. It is hard to determine whether this is a good deal without photo's it will depend on things like working condition, visible wear on places like the thread guides and your local area and maintenance. Buying a used machine is just like buying a used car. Two machines of the same age, one used in a commercial setting that was bet to death versus one used by a hobbyist will command different prices. I wouldn't go 65 percent the cost of a new machine, maybe 50 percent if it was in really nice shape. Just my thoughts, kgg

This is a older Consew model as the new version is RB-55. To get the most out of the machine for your sewing needs you would really need to add a servo motor. A servo motor will give you the slow speed control needed with a very short learning curve where as a clutch motor is much, much more difficult. This upgrade will probably run about $200 and is worth every penny. That will drive your price up to about $950 and new Consew RB-5 will be about $1500. I would look for a newer version or just bite the bullet and spent the extra for a new one. Without seeing the machines condition etc if the price of the machine was including the cost of replacing the motor in the $500 range, maybe. For doing wallets the RB machines should be quite capable but purses may pose a challenge depending on style, thickness of leather, thickness of seams, type of leather and size of thread. For doing circular type items you would be better off getting a cylinder arm machine (new or used) with a flat top attachment. That way you would be able to sew the flat items like wallets with the flat top attachment installed and cylinder items with it removed. I would suggest looking at Juki 341/ 1341 or clone. You should take a few minutes and read the article by Wiz Do you have a photo of the machine? kgg

The thread according to the label and their website ( https://www.ctpoint.it/en/products/twisted-yarns/penny/ ) is a polyester 3 ply thread. I have a feeling it is not a bonded polyester just a twisted polyester. Glad you figured out the problem. kgg

Not quite obsolete just yet are the flatbed's Japanese Seiko SLH-2B, the Cowboy / Hightex 733C machines as well a bunch of other Chinese clones. They are still using the Schmetz 1000 needles but those needles may prove to be difficult to get. Those machines maybe able too sew in the 1 1/4 " thickness range for strap material but leather could be something else. kgg

I would advise rethinking the Singer machines as they are getting a bit long in the tooth and for some models parts are difficult or impossible to get. I would recommend looking for Juki machines or their clones as parts, accessories are relatively inexpensive and in a lot of cases easier to source. I would recommend for the range of items you listed: i) Wallets and belts can be done on flatbed like a Juki DNU-1541S or cylinder bed machine with a flatbed attachment like a Juki LS-1341 typical max thread is around V138 and about 3/8" max material thickness ii) Bags / totes are best done on cylinder bed machines like Juki LS-1341 iii) Holsters and Sheaths need heavy iron in the Class 441 machines so you would be looking at Juki TSC-441 (real expensive, 10k) or clones like the Cowboy 4500 machines typical max thread is around V415 and about 7/8" max material thickness. If your budget allows get a flatbed for the wallet type items and a Class 441 machine for the holsters and bag items. If the budget will not allow, you can't or don't want more then one machine I would probably going for a Class 441 with a table top attachment and the new needle plates that allow for sewing with those machines thinner items with thinner thread. Remember No one machine will do everything. Which country are you in so someone could recommend machines and dealers? Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

Since the problem occurs when you reverse I would check and see if the forward and reverse stitch match. Without thread in the needle: Place a piece of heavy paper under the presser foot and sew a seam for say 6 inches then reverse. The reverse holes should match, going through the holes that you created in forward. There should be no variation of spi from the first part of the seam and the last part. This will also allow you to accurately measure spi the machine is actually sewing versus what your stitch length dial setting is saying. kgg

My take would be: i) The thread size 10 is the same as V277 and for that you need 200 (#25) needle. ii) The needle being a 180 (#24) is good for V207 (15) thread but in thick tough sticky stuff it would be better to use V138 (#20) thread. iii) The thread sliding through the eye of the needle is only one part of the equation. The needle also has to make a hole large enough to allow the thread not to be caught by the material to allow it to form the loop properly so it is caught by the hook. iv) The needle seems slightly twisted and the @Dwight detail would definitely help with needle alignment. If the needle is twisted one way or the other the top thread being caught by the hook maybe a problem. v) It maybe the photo but are you using a proper leather point needle it appears the tip is round which would be used in fabric. vi) A good thread to needle size chart can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html vii) If the material is tough or thick or sticky you are probably going to have to move up a needle size from what's is being recommended. kgg

Love the name. kgg

I figured I would mention the noise part as a lot of people live, sort of, in apartments and the noise / vibration of a compressor might make for unhappy neighbors. That should be interesting, you will become very conscious about all your electrical loads. If being off grid is going to be a new installation you will be better off, electrical wise, of over sizing your solar panels or generation. kgg

The price in France is really expensive as compared to what they are going for in Canada. The price for a used Juki LS-1341 in France at 2000 euro plus the cost of a compressor or $2930 CAD is a lot higher then what they can be had at a dealer in Ontario at $1650 CAD plus 13 percent sales tax for a total of about $1865 or about 1270 EUR. The one in the example comes complete with table and servo motor. Example: https://dixietailoringsupply.com/product/juki-ls-1341-used/ I would definitely ask to have the pneumatic system removed for three reasons i) expense of the compressor / hoses ii) more items to maintain / replace iii) noise and vibration of the compressor particularly if you are in an apartment which sort of defeats the quietness of having a servo motor. I forgot to ask how thick including overlapping seams that you will be sewing and with what size of thread? kgg

You may want to try putting the item under the presser foot so you are say about 3 stitches from the end and instead of sewing forward along the direction of your intended stitch line sew the item towards what would be the normal starting point, lift the presser foot turn the item and then sew back through those stitches in the direction you want to go. Doing that will lock the stitches and you will only have two layers of thread as compared to doing what a lot of people do when they a machine with reverse. Example with a machine having reverse: Typical way: Start the line of stitching, go three stitches forward then reverse to lock stitches then forward again to continue on doing the stitch line. Those first three stitches will have three layers of thread, 1 forward, 1 reverse and 1 one forward again. A method to reduce the number of layers of thread in those first three stitch holes is to start in 3 stitches on the intended stitch line, reverse stitch 3 stitches and then forward again too do the seam. So you get 1 layer of thread in the reverse direction of stitches and 1 layer of overlapping stitches in the forward direction to lock the stitches. kgg

How true. Depending on how the pneumatic presser foot lift was installed you probably could remove it and revert back to the standard mechanical operated foot lift. The Juki 1341 / 1342 came with both the front mounted knee lift and a foot pedal operated mechanical lift. What is the going price in France for a used Juki LS-1341 / 1342 machine? kgg

My take on the Juki LS-1341 / 1342. i) newer updated version of the Juki LS-341. A lot of the clones that are labeled LS-1341 are actually clones of the older Juki LS-341. Both the 1341 and 1342 have: The Same i) size cylinder bed 72mm (2.84 inch) diameter, ii) length of cylinder arm 255mm (10 inch) iii) large capacity bobbin iv) thread size capacity, rated for V138 v) needle system 135 x 16 or 135x 17 up to a 180 needle (#24 needle) vi) weight the same at 37.5 kg Their Difference i) Max sewing speed of the LS-1342 can sew 500 sti/min faster then the LS-1341 ii) LS-1342 has an optional smaller needle plate iii) The main difference is you can change the stroke of the presser foot and walking foot by a knob on the top of the machine for getting over multi layers Note: The Juki machines rate their machines for what thread it will sew with for both the top thread and in the bobbin not what size of thread you can stuff through the max size needle you can put in the needle bar. A 180 (#24) needle will take V207 thread and will handle it in the bobbin in thinner materials. This information is for the Juki LS-1340 series machines can be found on the Juki website: https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/download_e/catalog_e/ls1340.pdf The information on the nameplate being scratched off is worrisome. Why?? The machine is missing a couple of things that I see i) Knee Lift probably because the machine is installed on some aftermarket or homemade table top ii) the bobbin slide cover is missing iii) bottom cylinder cover appears to be missing but it is hard to tell from the photo iv) Top thread post guide pin missing v) No thread stand for the top or bobbin threads You might want to check the main drive belt for wear as I see the bottom cover on the cylinder arm isn't seating quite right and may have been removed to do repairs. No kgg

A couple of more manuals for your machine: i) https://www.manualslib.com/products/Sunstar-Km-380bl-3906793.html ii) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/970676/Sunstar-Km-380bl.html kgg

Take your belt and go to either a sewing machine dealer, Canadian Tire or Homepot and either get a the proper 3V belt or a 3L general purpose belt. If you choose to go the measurement route add about 1 1/2 inch (37mm) extra to your measurement as the length on the belt is the outside diameter so you have to allow for the thickness of the belt. kgg

It often it depends a lot on where you are located, private or dealer sale and the operating condition of the machine. In Ontario, Canada you often see the Singer 211's go for about $500 CAD ($370 USD) and sometimes just the head for about $300 CAD ($200 USD). kgg

I agree with what @Wizcrafts said. Also you might try: i) Remove the wicks at the oil reserve end from the oil reserve and just oil those wicks manually. ii) Make up put a absorbent soaker pad (cotton / felt) to put in the pan. My LS-1341 clone didn't come with a catch pan so the oil drops would seep out under the frame onto the table top and leave an oily mess. The soaker pad works as long as I remember to clean / change the pad. kgg

The problem with the 335 machines they basically have a difficult time handling threads that are over V92 (T90, Tkt30) and some will not handle above V69 (T70, Tkt40). On this side of the pond, parts and accessories are expensive and not as popular as the Juki / Juki clone machines. I would on first blush pass and find a Class 1341 machine. kgg

What size of thread are you planning on using? Looking at the spec of the Cobra Class 26: i) it " sews up to 7/16 " and the thickness of 2 layers of 13 oz would be about 13 /32 which would only give you maybe 1/32 of freedom. Depending on the type of leather you are basically at the max abilities of the Cobra 26. ii) the Cobra 26 uses system 135 needles. With smaller thread and needle sizes you may wind up with needle deflection problems when sewing at the max thickness. I am not saying the Cobra 26 will not sew your items but if you are planning on sewing at the max capabilities of the machine regularly I would suggest moving to a Class 441 machine which would use the thicker 794 needles and wouldn't be struggling with handling the thickness of leather for your dog harness. The downside to that is for doing patches the hole size and feeding of the material maybe too aggressive on a Class 441 machine if it can be done. Since you are at both ends of the sewing spectrum I would suggest you look at two machines, one for putting patches on hats probably a 29k type or a post bed machine and a Class 441 machine for doing the thick leather. No one machine will do everything. I would also suggest taking a sample of the items you are planning to sew and visit a dealer. kgg

A good way to check what to expect in speed change by replacing the size of motor pulley. i) Checkout this site and just plug in the values at the top of the page. Imperial Values: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng Metric Values: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt ii) If you need / want a speed reducer pulley setup just go farther down the page. Example: Change size of motor pulley 1. Motor speed 100 rpm, hand-wheel pulley size 4", motor pulley 3". The hand-wheel pulley will turn at 75 rpm's Change motor pulley down to a 2" and the hand-wheel will turn at 50 rpm's So you get a 1/3 reduction in speed. Install a speed reducer pulley: Motor speed 100 rpm, hand-wheel pulley size 4", motor pulley 3". The hand-wheel pulley speed at 75 rpm's Speed reducer pulley setup is either a single 6 " pulley and a single 2" pulley mounted a shaft or a 6" 2 step pulley that has a large 6" pulley and 2" pulley molded as one. 1. Leaving the original 3" motor pulley and the hand-wheel will turn at 25 rpm's So you get a 70 percent reduction in speed by just installing a speed reducer pulley arrangement. 2. If you also change the size of the motor pulley down to a 2" the speed will be further reducer so the hand-wheel will turn at 17 rpm's. The main question should be what is really a practical reduction in speed. I would be interested in knowing what the class 441 machines with a dealer supplied speed reducer installed actually get. kgg

A couple of things come to mind since your bobbin isn't rotating. Simple: 1) Safety clutch tripped due to overload on bobbin shaft. 2) bobbin case has slipped out of place. Did you reset the safety clutch on the sewing machine bed? Time consuming and expensive: 2) Drive / timing belt worn-out or broken. Tilt the machine head backwards and have a look underneath at the condition of the machines drive / timing belt. kgg

Might have been something for sewing heat resistant items similar to: 1) Para Aramid Sewing Thread https://www.textiletechnologies.co.uk/products/para-aramid-sewing-thread 2) Kevlar Stainless Steel Wire Sewing Thread https://www.eas-fiberglass.net/product/kevlar-stainless-steel-wire-sewing-thread.html kgg

I have no idea what this type of thread is normally used for. kgg

You should be pleased with the Cobra Class 26 which I think is a class 341 / 1341 machine. With a table attachment you should get the flexibility to be able to do most items. I think we all have bought a machine at some point that really didn't or wasn't capable of doing what we had hoped for. kgg