kgg

The things to consider before buying the Alder is the cost of the machine, cost of the replacement timing belt which I think is going to be closer to $100, cost to have it installed and the machine re-timed, cost to put a 120v servo motor on it so you can use it at a controllable speed verses getting a good used refurnished machine from a dealer. kgg

Your industrial upholstery class machines like the Juki 1541S can handle up to 3/8" thick or 9.5 mm. To regularly go beyond that you will need to move up into the 441 class machine. The price of a Juki TSC 441 in North America is north of $9000 cad. So a more reasonable cost option for the a 441 class machine are the clones like Cowboy or Cobra to name a couple in the $2500 cad to $3500 cad range. Another option may also be the one arm bandits like Cowboy Outlaw or the Tippmann Boss both around the $1500 US price range. To help with machine suggestions, what do you want to sew and with what size thread? Remember no one machine will do everything. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The Tinkers delight is delegated to the basement as I have a couple of more things I want to try before it makes it's out-the-door journey. What are you planning on sewing and what is your budget. I'm sure someone could offer suggestions as what maybe a good match for your needs/wants. kgg

What did you find out about the machine? kgg

Have you checked the top tension discs for wear? kgg

Looking at Lial website (en.lial.biz/thread-polyart-20-1500m) in their specs it lists the thread as #20 but lists it as Tex 154 which would be closer to a #15 (V207)thread rather then a #20 (V138) which may have to do with it being a looser polyester thread. kgg

My plan of attack is to use a metal lathe that way I can use either wood or metal for the burnisher. My main shaft on my burnisher / polisher is 3/4" that tappers down to a 5/8"-11 threaded section. So far me thoughts are: For a aluminum: Drilling a 17/32" hole almost to the end then drilling a 13/16 " hole so far down and then tapping the 17/32" section for a 5/8" - 11 bolt thread. Once that is done cut the grooves in the surface, drill and tap a grub screw in the 13/16" end. For wood: Round and mill the grooves into the wood to the correct diameters, drill a 11/16" hole completely from end to the other then drill a 1 5/8" hole so far down to accommodate a 5/8"nut and on the other end drill a 1 3/8" flat washer to butt up against the 3/4" shaft.

I couldn't find a email address or whether the burnisher was aluminum or steel. So me being me I called him, a really nice guy. He confirmed he made it out of aluminum as steel will turn the leather blue. kgg

Thank you, I haven't been accused of that before. HaHa kgg

The Alder is not a post bed, it is a cylinder bed machine. Do you know what model it is, do they have the manual? The machine looks in pretty good shape. kgg

Did you check the nameplate of the motor too see what voltage the motor on the machine is rated for? kgg

What size of thread are you using? If you are using V69 you should be able to get a pretty good selection of colors in the domestic sewing machine size spools at most sewing supply shops. kgg

Maybe I'm just cheap but I love to tinker and for the most part I have the time. I approach things where if I need / want something simple I'll usually give it a go first. Sort of jack of all trades, master of none approach. If I fail well then I'll buy a tailor made. kgg

Your dryer receptacle is normally a four prong 220v, 30 amp so first check the voltage and amp rating of the motor. Typically the 50 amp 3 prong plugs are meant for 220v where you have two hots and a ground. I would suspect the motor on the Alder is 120 v. kgg

Thank you. That is a nice burnisher as it stays close to the body of the machine so you can apply a lot of pressure. kgg

Aaron Martin Harness Ltd. in Ontario and their website for those needles is aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=989&catview=20&submit=View kgg

I think the the problem of missed stitches and catching on the back stitching is the size of needle for the size of thread you are using. A good reference for needle selection would be the one Toledo has on their website ( tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). For V207 you would need a #24 or possibly a #25 needle for thick / sticky / multi layers to create a hole large enough so the top thread can be caught correctly by the hook. kgg

Nice work. kgg

There is no question the Proedge are nice looking burnishers. They are on the pricey side for someone who can turn their own with either a wood lathe or metal lathe. I am planning on turning one using a metal lathe that is also another reason for the question about using metal as a burnisher. kgg

Thank you all for the info. If I go with wood I would like to us a North American species. I can see the softwoods like spruce cracking / breaking / wearing or even your softer hardwood species where as your tougher hardwoods like your eastern iron woods, white oaks and hard maples being stronger. This info has sent me down the wood rabbit hole and so far have found the following info: A lot burnishers use the non native to North America rosewood Cocobolo which has Janka rating of 2,960 Ibf Native to North America: i) Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana) has Janka rating of 2680 Ibf ii) Eastern Ironwood (Ostrya virginiana) has Janka rating of 1,860 Ibf iii) Hard maple has Janka rating of 1,500 Ibf iv) White Oak has Janka rating of 1,360 Ibf As a reference your typical White Spruce has Janka rating of 460 Ibf. This raises the question if a good burnisher is based on hardness why not just go with metal or are there other factors? I couldn't find him so if you have a link I would appreciate it. kgg

As an quick example: Singer 29k70 and 73 ( ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-29-leather-stitching-sewing-machine.html ) Singer 29k71 ( youtube.com/watch?v=0LPAtMRN5ZU ) kgg

i) A & E ( American & Efird Canada Inc.) (514) 352-4800 or online at amefird.ca ii) Cansew (28 Apex Rd, North York, ON) at (416) 782-1122 or online at cansew.com kgg

I am planning on turning a 3" diameter burnisher and am wondering what material would be best suited and why for burnishing using a motorized burnisher? metal: steel / brass / aluminum wood: soft woods / hardwoods Any thoughts kgg

I particularly liked the video at about the 4:30 mark showing a excellent visual of the drop method of adjusting the bobbin tension. kgg

This maybe true that the drawer isn't original as I can only go back about 20 years of ownership. I did get the original manual, original table top and can only assume the base and drawer are also original. The Singer's did come with more ornate front designs similar to that of the 127/128's treadles on models prior to the 29k-70 series but they seemed to have changed to the plain face design on the earlier 70 series. I have never seen a Alder Patcher from the 40's or 50's and can't comment on the drawers that they came with. kgg