Jump to content

kgg

Contributing Member
  • Posts

    2,902
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by kgg

  1. Try a led magnetic light from Amazon.com that should brighten things up. You can get two for $15.99 US ( https://www.amazon.com/AUTIDEFY-Lighting-Multifunctional-Gooseneck-Workbench/dp/B09K7F45Z4/ref=sr_1_12?crid=Y59GJ6BO0Y8R&keywords=led+sewing+machine+light+flexible+work+light&qid=1642258315&sprefix=led+sewing+machine+light+flexible+work+light%2Caps%2C50&sr=8-12 ). kgg
  2. Yes the thread size 69 and 92 refer V69 (Tex 70, Tkt 40) and V92 (Tex 90, Tkt 30. A good reference table for thread sizes / strenght and needles sizing can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). kgg
  3. Without the thread threaded through what I notice: 1. The thread guide is not original as their should be two separate thread guides that mount in the holes just above the thread tensioners. 2. Are you following the Singer Manual for timing? If you don't have the manual you can get one here ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364320/Singer-112w139.html#manual ) 3. To thread the needle you need to use the thread controller discs closest to you and the thread needs to go throw the hole in the take-up arm closest to you. 4. The spring in the thread controller seems to be at roughly the 7 pm mark and should probably be adjust to the 9 pm position. 5. To do the needle to hook timing slide the cover plate off so you can see the hooks placement in relation to the needle rather then trying to see it from the underside. A photo of how you are threading from the needle would also be helpful. What system of needles not the size of needle are you are using as this can make a perfectly timed machine to not be able to sew. kgg
  4. Excellent work. kgg
  5. Another option would be the 3/4 version the Singer 99. kgg
  6. I enjoyed the video, to the point. You can't beat old iron made with real metal probably will last forever. Too bad most of the the old iron didn't have some sort of walking foot. kgg
  7. I think I would try to cut out the piece the cat had a go at and throw it out. I don't think you will get the smell out particularly once it gets wet or is exposed to warmer temperatures with high humidity. Had a friend who had their leather couch sprayed by skunk and had it professional cleaned. It was great in the winter but come those late summer days of hot temperatures with high humidity you would swear that skunk had sneaked back into the house. kgg
  8. Someone needs to refund the Lift-Gate fee and the case of beer for the neighbor. Should contact the retailer to have it replaced. If you made the shipping arrangements then contact the shipper if the retailer made the shipping arrangements then contact them for both the Lift-Gate fee and the table replacement. kgg
  9. I would say based on their history of making good machines it would be an excellent machine if you are doing production work and can justify the cost. I follow the "KISS" principal and all the extra computer controlled electronic features are going to be great but repairs down the road that probably will be another story. Since these are pretty complicated machines finding someone to do the repairs and finding the computer controlled electronic parts are not going to be cheap or easy. If I needed a machine with that type of sewing / thread capabilities I would look at a more basic mechanical machine (no electronics) something like the Juki TSC-441U at about 70 percent of the cost of the Alder. kgg
  10. A good start would be a couple of photo's of your thread path from the thread spools to the how you are threading the needles as one needs to be left to right and the other right to left: 1. What size of needle and needle system you are using as it should be a system 126 x 9 or 126 x 3 or 126 x 1 or FO X 3 Singer manual says 126x9 but the others are an equivalent as per ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=TTE&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-SYS-SINGER-01 ) 2. What size of thread are you using. Max needle size is #24 so that would allow up to V138 in thick / tough material and V207 in thin material. 3. How thick of material are you try sew 4. What material are you sewing, Fabric or Leather kgg
  11. I would first suggest if you are buying a new machine and can afford the price difference over a clone buy a brand name like Juki, Alder, PFAFF. A reasonable solution I think would be a Juki LS 1341 as it will probably cover off most of your requirements except for the roller foot. If you need attachments / parts all the clones within this class of machine are based around the Juki. When you decide to sell the machine it will be easier to resell and at a higher price then that of a clone. The PFAFF 335 probably will limit your thread selection to V92. The parts and accessories for the Alder and PFAFF tend to be manufacturer specific and expensive. For speed control whatever machine you decide on, buy it with a servo motor. If the control is still not what you need or like buy the machine with a servo motor and a speed reducer. I would still advise you to visit a dealer with a sample of your stuff and test ride a machine as this is an expensive out lay of cash. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg
  12. That's a little bit too harsh for me. I think is has do more with the lack of storage space of returning empty containers before full ones can be released to the truckers for distribution along with having to sort through the various size / type of containers being released then political reasons. kgg
  13. I like Uwe suggestions if you really need to know. If the seam is longer then what your bobbin can do either go down a size or two in thread size or when you run out of bobbin thread restart you seam a few stitches back from where you ran out and sew over the end of the original seam to finish the seam run. kgg
  14. Have they given you instructions on what and how to do the modification? If that modification doesn't work and the parts are damaged what is the next step? kgg
  15. You doing the modification or them? kgg
  16. I would contact them again to see what the next step is. kgg
  17. As these are pretty pricey items why not just return the item and have Weaver correct the problem, replace the item or refund your money? kgg
  18. Another alternative would be the portable walking foot machines that are walking foot machines with zig zag that that a standard 135 x 16 needle like the Sailrite LSZ-1(new $1000 US) or Reliable Barracuda (new $500US) and there are others. kgg
  19. I am not sure if this is going to be the best machine for sail repair as I think it is a drop feed machine. The zig zag is a nice feature for sail repair but I think the Consew 99 is similar to the Singer 20u machines which were good in fabric. kgg
  20. From the information I have seen the needle shank diameter size goes up from 1.63 mm for size #18 needle used for V69 thread changes to 2.00 mm for size #19 needles used for V92 thread and up to size #25 needle when using the DBx1 needle system. To get around shank diameter you need to change to the Groz-Beckert System 1738 A system. What machine are you planning on buying the needles for and for what size thread? kgg
  21. Think of a pair of jeans. The outside seam is Lap Seam (sewn first) and the other seam (inside seam) is just a simple seam sewn with the material inside out. kgg
  22. Another thought would be to construct the sleeve similar to a pant leg where you would do the lap seam first and then the inseam. The down side is that you would have a second seam rather then a cylinder with just the lap seam. The up side is you could use a regular flatbed or cylinder machine with a table top attachment. Just my thought, kgg
  23. I would think you would use an up the arm machine or a patcher. kgg
  24. A consideration to keep in mind is the maximum size needle the machine can handle which in turn will determine the maximum size thread you can use in the machine. The 335 class (Seiko CW's) max out with a #22 (140 metric) needle which will limit you to V92 (Tkt 30) thread. kgg
  25. What machine are you using? Flat felled seam are sometimes referred to as lap seams. A couple of video's for you to look at: 1. No attachment and basic principals : www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1vJzVW2lLk 2. With a Lap Seam Folder on Hightex / Cowboy double needle: www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmxvdtlWdZQ Hope this helps, kgg
×
×
  • Create New...