kgg

"M" designation same as "Tkt" designation so M60 is V46 while M40 is V69. Size V46 is typically used in domestic sewing machines. kgg

Seems like a good price. You could spend some money and have a good machine. As long as someone didn't weld the clutch assembly to the drive shaft it could be replaced. Check and see what shape the drive belt is in. The clutch assembly is not an expensive item ($70) and I would replace the clutch assembly and belt (if needed) before use. As far as damaging parts without the clutch assembly being operational who knows. I would still like to know why they they tack weld the clutch assembly. kgg

I never really thought to much about bobbin size for the machines I have owned over the years other then there was never enough bobbin thread. The stuff always ran out when I least expected / wanted too. So since bobbin capacity is a major requirement of yours and I couldn't find any information related to bobbin thread capacity I did some calculations for the amount of thread that could possibly be on a bobbin for the Juki TSC- 441, Juki LU-563, Juki DNU-1541S and Singer 111W. What my numbers showed was: Machine Bobbin V92 Thread Capacity V138 Thread Capacity V207 Thread Capacity V277 Thread Capacity Juki TSC- 441 Style 33 118.67 yards 78.67 yards 52 yards 39 yards Juki LU-563 Style U 75.67 yards 50 yards 33 yards 24.33 yards Juki DNU-1541S Style M 53.67 yards 35.67 yards 23.33 yards 17.33 yards Singer 111W Style G 34 yards 22.33 yards 14.66 yards 11 yards I know the numbers may not be totally accurate but it will give some relationship between the styles of bobbins and their thread capacity. For your needs of canvas and bags I think the either the Juki DNU-1541S or a Juki LU-563 would do the job. I use a Juki DNU-1541S and fine that if I can stuff the multi layers of different materials under the presser foot it will sew it. kgg

Since this is the the time most people who smoke try to quit. I started to smoke at the tender age of 8. Learned helping my grandfather roll and lighting them for him. My normal daily adult habit ranged from 2 to 4 packs a day everyday. I would even get up in the middle of the night and have a couple of smokes. After 50 plus years off smoking like Marzen I went to the vape about 3 years ago not for health reasons but more for the cost of smoking. As far as it being socially acceptable I really didn't worry / care. I now can vape to my hearts content for about $30 a month (we make our own vape to the strength and taste needed). Still wake-up to have a couple puffs, some habits don't leave. Before warned there are drawbacks to quitting smoking. Expect to gain weight, return of sense of taste and for me a hyper sense of smell, which I hate. Merry Christmas Everyone, kgg

Great, you got the piece out. I would really clean the hole for the needle, maybe with a pipe cleaner and light oil just in case there is some dirt in there. Remember to put a cloth or paper towels down on your bed to catch any oil. As far as needing a second screw I don't think but I am not sure so check your manual or download a service manual for the machine. Merry Christmas, kgg

Forgot to mention. Once you decide on thread size that works for your stuff if you have problems with the 8 oz cones particularly black like excessive backlash causing the thread to go under the cone move up to the 1 lb size cones. kgg

After you get the broken needle part out. You are presently using V69 Bonded Nylon thread which will require a 135 x 17 size 18 min. but you may continue to have problems with using this small a thread and diameter needle going through multi layers of vinyl. I would change the thread to at least V92 (stronger) and a larger needle size (20). The larger needle size will be larger in diameter and stronger with less deflection. I do like your table extension it will come in handy. kgg

The thread cone should have a label on the inside bottom of the cone. On the label you should see a description like Bonded Nylon or Bond Polyester and a size like V69, V92 or V138. Once you know the size of thread you can determine what is the correct needle size that you should be using. A good thread / needle chart is can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). If I am correct your machine uses the standard 135 x 17 needles for material and 135 x 16 for leather. For V69 thread you should be using a size #18 needle, V92 thread size #19 and V138 thread size #22. However what I have found is that you may have to go up a needle size if the material is a little sticky like some types of vinyl. Depending on the material you are sewing the needle needs to be replaced when it causes problems or starts to get dull. I usually replace my needles every 8 hours of run time, change of thread size or when it starts to cause problems, whichever comes first. kgg

A couple of photos would help. What thread are you using? What needle size are you using? Is the machine thread path correct and the bobbin installed correctly? How thick is the material you are trying to sew? kgg

Yes that is the one I was thinking of. Hope it helps. kgg

If you do a search here for a topic called " Bobbin Issue - Juki 1541S " there are some really good photo' s of what you should see with the presser foot plate removed and may give you some additional info. kgg

I would try resetting the safety clutch. The link should help with resetting the clutch. https://www.instructables.com/id/Re-engage-the-Safety-Clutch-on-Walking-Foot-Sewing/ It may also be the top pin that holds the hook basket in place got bent. If it is bent out of place it may have been caused by either not inserting the bobbin fully in place and hearing the click of the bobbin case lever the last time you put a fresh bobbin in, buildup of thread or not holding the thread for the first few stitches. The top pin is located at the top of the hook and you should be able to see it with the presser foot plated removed. kgg

Same here when it comes to some of the printers. So we treat them like a Bic lighter and recycle to the trash heap. kgg

Nice job. Interested in how they standup to use. What would be the cost of the real 38 mm spacers? I bet considerably more plus wait time. kgg

A bit shy on info. I am going to ask what is the difference between the Cobra class 18 and a Juki 1541S which are about the same cost expect the speed reducer on the Cobra. kgg

I have seen the prices for used machines right across the board going up the last month or so. Maybe people are hoping to cash in on the silly season rush, they should fall back in the new year. kgg

II agree with JLS. Checking the specs on the Cobra class 18 it will sew up to 20 oz leather which is about 8mm (0.315 inches). This would be below your belt requirement of 3/8 inch (0.375 inches) or about 9.5mm. kgg

Interesting stuff, but begs the question what do they get now as far as learning / doing a legit trade / skill or ? kgg

That is so nice to hear that the dealer took the machine back we little or no hassle. It would have been much more stressful if you had to return ship the machine. kgg

I had the thread fray at the needle on my Juki 1541s when I was pushing it well beyond it's thickness sewing abilities. I know the 1541 is not in the sewing class of the CB4500 but what solved my problem was changing the needle size up one larger then what was needed for the thread size. My theory was that the needle hole wasn't quite large enough and maybe some slight needle deflection causing the thread too rub and fray. kgg

The two one-arm bandits are heavy duty and will do holster type work where as the Sailrite is basically meant to do much thinner material like canvas. Keep in mind that no one machine is going to do everything. If you are doing wallets buy brand name (Juki) upholstery grade machine or if doing holsters buy a 441 type machine. kgg

For me that would not be a hard decision. I think the used one is way overpriced when compared to the price of a new machine/ knee lift/ table/ servo motor. The only difference is the used machine is $200 cheaper and has a roller guide. Roller guides are fairly cheap if you really need one. The new Consew 206 RB-5 would have warranty, local support, manuals, checked over to ensure everything is in proper working order by a qualified tech and ready to work. kgg

Great option over the portable walking foot machines. Nice, neat compact way of packaging a much better machine along with a servo motor into a small transportable unit. This may give those that are short on space some ideas. kgg

All the mentioned industrial machines (Alder, Juki, Consew, Singer )are proven old iron, the problem as the original posts states " I do not have room for a industrial sewing machine table. " So are there other options beside the portable walking foot machines? kgg

That doesn't say much for the dealer new or not. Not a great way to start off with a new machine. If they are a new dealer you would think the machine would not have left their hands until it was gone over and in perfect operating condition. For the price I would expect it to have been sewn off with the thread in the needle, the sew-off sample under the presser foot, manuals (operating and repair) in English and ready to work. You are to nice, if was me I would contact the "dealer" the machine came from and express my displeasure to the point of seriously considering whether or not to send it back. Have the dealer either do the repair, replace the machine or refund the money. If the dealer repairs it then they cann't say you screwed things up voiding your warranty should something else arise. kgg