kgg

Once you get into holsters you are going to need a much heavier machine other then the upholstery weight machines. Remember that there is not going to be one machine that can do or handle everything. For what you want to do I think you would be looking at cylinder bed machine that would have a high lift capability and being able to handle V92 to 277 plus thread. kgg

The machine looks in really nice shape but my concern would be repair parts since Necchi don't seem to be that common of a machine. kgg

Wiz, that makes perfect sense why Juki specifies what the max thread and needle size should be run in their machines ... machine longevity. kgg

I just took a look at the Thor site and I think someone may have fooled up on entering the value of the thread capacities. Their site lists their 1541S has a thread capacity of V277 and their 1508 NH at V270. Juki 1541s capacity is V138 while the Juki 1508NH is V207. kgg

Nicely done and like the jack sap as well. kgg

The Consew P1541s-CC manual (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1097826/Consew-P1541s-Cc.html?page=3#manual ) lists its max. needle size at #23 and uses the same 135 x 17 as the Juki. I didn't find a specific reference to min. or max. thread size but I figure it means that it would max out on the thread size of V207 not V277 thread ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). I wouldn't be surprised that the Juki would also handle V207 thread size occasionally in a pinch but do think if you have to regularly go above the V138 thread size you really need a different machine. I do have a question more out of curiosity then usefulness, has anyone tried to run two top threads of different thread colours for contrast purposes of V69 threads through a needle? This would yield a combined thread thickness of .0230 " or roughly V277 equivalent in size not strength. kgg

A really nice job, excellent refinement over my method. It is sturdy, basic, portable and functional. Did you find you had to adjust the top thread tension any or was there really no additional thread tension introduced? This is what I think the forum is really about having a question / problem, finding / offering a solution and then the refinement of that solution. In this case the: Problem: Thread going underneath thread spool / tangling particularly for 8 oz black bonded nylon thread and portability. Solution: Put the spool horizontally which is a more natural unwinding position as the thread spool was filled horizontally during the manufacturing process. Placing the spool horizontally does remove the counter clockwise thread twisting action as the thread unravels from the spool which in turn would reduce / eliminate thread springiness or spring back. kgg

Wiz that is great info on the bobbin case problems so far it seems I have been lucky. I have not experience the bobbin case related issue but the info about the problem and solutions may well come in handy down the road. Maybe my machine was setup properly in the beginning at the dealer and/or dumb luck coupled with putting a drop of oil in the basket / hook area often doesn't hurt, weekly cleaning out of the basket / hook area to remove lint etc. and always installing a new bobbin with the machine titled back to ensure that it correctly snaps in place. Cann't seem to get my fingers down into the slide plate properly and don't like doing it blindly by feel from underneath while trying to get my fingers through the opening in the bottom tray. kgg

Hi Lance, I have found that my Juki 1541S has meet / exceeded my expectations with no problems (knock on wood) other then the dumb pedal user. If I can force it under the presser foot it will sew it. Most of my stuff incorporates hard back 1200 gsm Sherpa, high density rubber, ripstop material all of which is dog related. In the topic " Work Bench Lighting" you can see in the second photo the off-white Sherpa that is just shy of about 2" (the beginnings of a dog bed). I just completed a custom sized one two days ago for a client that was just over 2" thick. When this material was compressed down it just managed to fit under the foot. As far as leather I have only done a couple of layers of light upholstery leather. The machine still amazes me as to what abuse I can ask of it. If the Juki will do the job I would advise you to get the Juki 1541"S" which has the built in safety clutch not the Juki 1541, it could save you a repair bill down the road. Also don't forget to bring some samples of the thickness plus a bit of what you are planning on using. kgg kgg

Really nice work. kgg

After re- reading your natural thread flow comment I decided to do a little look around and realized that a lot if not all thread is placed on spools in the horizontal position. So you are right it would be more natural to uncoil from that position. Why most spools are stood up in spool stands today probably has more to do with space saving. It might be just a left over thread spool position from the beginning when spools were more like large wooded domestic thread spools.

Look forward to seeing your improvements. kgg

Hi dikman, I would be interested in knowing what you come up with. Bearings would really reduce any thread tension drag. I seen quite a bit of difference going from 3/4" to 3/8" for the horizontal support rod, would have tried a smaller diameter rod but didn't have one. kgg

Hi dikman This was an ongoing battle having to contend with the spring back / excessive uncoiling of 8 oz spools of bonded nylon thread. The d stuff would go under the bottom of the spool and get wrapped then of course screw-up tension and break. Having the spool suspended horizontally solved my problem. I have tried it with 1lb spools and it works as well. I think the most important part is forcing the direction of the thread so it uncoils from the middle of the spool. The only thing is, it does change tension of the thread a fair bit and you have to readjust your tensioner to compensate for the increase in spool thread tension. kgg

I use ripstop nylon a fair bit and use bonded Coates Dabond polyester rather then bonded nylon. I find the bonded polyester comes off the spool / bobbin more evenly and is less springy then bonded nylon. It is also supposedly has better resistance to UV for outdoor use. I know from experience on my stuff that it does withstand multiple washing in beach and drying then bonded nylon. I would suggest that you try a comparison of both thread types for your stuff and see which thread type works best. Most times I use V69 with a #18 needle but if the stuff also incorporates high density rubber or other material I move up in thread and needle size. What I can tell you is that you will need at least three or four layers of material to give you a nice looking seam. The nicest seams I seem to be able to get is with double fold ripstop binding for the edges. kgg

I like the wheel spinner idea. kgg

I came across an online auction for "Ontario Orthotic Lab" that maybe of interest to people in the Hamilton area of Ontario, Canada. If it was closer to me I would consider bidding on a couple of items, just don't want to travel 5 hours each way this time of year. What caught my eye was 3 table mounted hand mini cutters (lot 10, 11 & 12) and 2 swivel head hydraulic clickers (Lot 32 & 33). Also I have no interest or association with this auction whatsoever. The link if anyone is interested is: http://www.danburyauctions.com/ontario-orthotic-lab/ kgg

It is nice to save some money but. I would like catskin suggested go and test the used machines with your stuff plus a bit and see what happens. Which you should do as well with the new ones you listed. The Juki has a safety clutch but only handles 138 max thread while the Cobra's handles max thread 207. I don't know what the Consew and Highlead will handle. The Highlead is a walking foot probably not a big deal but the others are compound feed machines. I would seriously look at the Juki 1541S. If you are planning on a new machine Buy ONCE, Cry ONCE. kgg

I agree with Bikermutt. It probably has it place in the market for certain items/locations but comparing it to his Juki 1508 is a real stretch at best. Hell that whining sound alone when it's running compared to a Juki 1508 or any other Juki for that matter, come on get real, no comparison. kgg

Do a search for "rivet press" there are so many suppliers. Most are made in China in varying styles (pliers style or table mounted) and prices are all over the place. kgg

I use a 5'-4" long by 3" wide flat piece of aluminium for long cuts or markings and just clamp both ends to the table with C-clamps or squeeze clamps. kgg

If I am not mistake the groove in the needle should be facing the direction the thread enters the eye of the needle. So just turn the needle around so the groove is facing you. kgg

I haven't found that yet but is a major consideration. Maybe moving the swing arm fixture up and out of the way as I need is helping. kgg

I feel your pain, in Canada we are to becoming a nanny state as compared to what it use be like 20 years ago. I understand your problems may change with the EU exit thing hopefully for the better. kgg For me the cluster worked best. kgg

I would imagine they would be available just about everywhere. Actually my son took the 5 in 1 that was in the light to do something and put a 6 in 1 in my light. I didn't notice until this morning. kgg