kgg

You may have to go to a larger city like Houston to find a industrial sewing machine dealer. Do a search for industrial sewing machine dealer by city and you should be able to narrow it down. You may have to do a little road trip, I travelled four hours each way to get the right machine at the right price from a dealer that I felt was competent / professional. Could have gotten the same new machine about a hour away but didn't feel confident about the dealer and the difference in price was considerable, well worth the drive. kgg

What type of toy? Some chew toys that I have done and seen are sewn inside out first to hide and protect the thread. This way a smaller thread can be used. A small hole is then left somewhere to pull the interior out which will be then be the exterior. The edge is then sewn just to help flatten the folded edge out and close the pullout hole. kgg

More info please. Like what size thread (top and bottom)? type of thread (bonded nylon, bonded polyester)? size of needle being used? needle leather or fabric? Juki model Juki? type of leather? kgg

Did you mean V69 rather then 169? kgg

I agree with chrisash on servo motor and weight. It is nice to have machines setup to do basically one function and I do find that with the compound feed I have if I have to do something light and am to lazy to dig out a lighter machine I have to be really careful and really dump down the Juki 1451S. kgg

Take a trip to your local brick /mortar dealer with samples of your stuff and see what fits your needs / budget. Used machines look for brand names like Juki, Singer, Pfaff, Alder etc. be wary of clone machines. New machines look for a reputable dealer with a excellent track record as close to you as possible. If you want a machine up and running then stay away from buying online from certain sites unless you are prepared to do your own assembly / repairs with little or no support. Remember no machine will do everything but initially choose one that does most of your stuff in your price range. kgg

Yes I do admit there are some very good clones as other equipment out of China and excellent dealers that take pride in what they offer. Finding a good sewing machine clone can be difficult with so many available from so many labels from different dealers. In a lot of cases it can be hard to tell one from another. Some I tried were OK while others sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. kgg

It is sad that a lot companies have moved their production to China. Quality or the lack of will follow and good enough or almost good enough will be the norm. To the best of my knowledge the Juki 1541S still remains as being built in Japan. I would purchase a used brand name like Singer, Adler, PFAFF, Juki that have been reconditioned any day over a new Chinese clone. Since this is a nice layout of cash do a visit to a brick/mortar shop and do a comparison of a brand name (Singer, Adler, PFAFF, Juki) new and used then compare them to the Chinese clones. I bet dollars to donuts that you will you will easily see the difference. kgg

If you want a NEW Consew 206-rb check out Toledo sewing machines. They list the price at $1395. I bet you are glad now that you didn't get the one at auction. For $1800 you could get a new Juki 1541S. The link: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html kgg

I agree with Wiz and as side note which way are turning the handwheel. You should be turning it clockwise and a good reference video would be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOliY3NHg_A to help visually understanding how the Chinese patcher forms the basic lock stitch. kgg

Yes this is a Singer Patcher. If I were closer to me I won't hesitate particularly for $300. You maybe able to get it cheaper even. The Singer 29-70 is a short arm, small bobbin, with no side wheel while the Singer 29-71 is a short arm, small bobbin, with side wheel and the Singer 29-72 is a long arm, large bobbin, with side wheel. So from the photo I think it is a Singer 29-72 from the photo. kgg

Depending on your local laws a small sea can (shipping container) would make a get little shop. Put a small 12"x12" sign on it, 3'-0" door in the side and bang you have a brick & mortar shop. These are very popular and fairly inexpensive here in Ontario for general storage, summer cabins etc. kgg

Puritan sewing machines have been around for a long time and have a great reputation for stitching / durability for handling thick leather in a production environment. The only concern for some folks is that they are Chain stitch machines not lock stitch. That may or may not matter to you depending on what you want to due with the machine. Depending on the age, overall condition and of course the cost it maybe a good buy. If you had some more info and pictures someone familiar with those machines could make some more detailed comments. kgg

As a note the rotary hook for the Juki 562 would look like: https://www.ebay.ca/i/162872521444?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=706-89093-2056-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162872521444&targetid=607627058052&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9000651&poi=&campaignid=1669215008&adgroupid=63013116685&rlsatarget=pla-607627058052&abcId=1063836&merchantid=116972197&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInJOGuNT14gIV1MDICh15ogX5EAYYAiABEgIhHfD_BwE As a note the rotary hook for the Juki 563 would look like: https://www.ebay.ca/i/401426223821?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=706-89093-2056-0&mkcid=2&itemid=401426223821&targetid=607627058052&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9000651&poi=&campaignid=1669215008&adgroupid=63013116685&rlsatarget=pla-607627058052&abcId=1063836&merchantid=116972197&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0JOfrNT14gIVB4_ICh2ZSQAxEAYYAyABEgLAiPD_BwE kgg

My thought process of elimination for the height problem would be to move the main drive gear in the second photo as far right as possible so it would make no contact with the hook assembly. Then slide the hook assembly back in place. This would be too see if the hook assembly will seat down lower. If it did seat lower then maybe it is just the placement of where / how the main drive gear contacts the hook assembly gear and its placement on the hook assembly shaft. If the hook assembly does not seat lower then I think the cause would probably be related to the top bushing being not seated deep enough, an incorrect bushing or something else preventing the assembly from going lower down.

From what I can gather the Singer part # 240556 and the Juki part called vertical axis sewing hook assembly #B1830-055-0A0 should be interchangeable. If you check " hensewfiles.com/PDF/Juki LU-562.pdf " section 3. Sewing Hook & Shaft Components the one on the left is a 562 assembly while the one on the right is a 563. These drawings are really clear and may help you with checking how things look and go together. Like davemac suggested it could be sleeves not seated properly. kgg

I think whoever had the machine apart last didn't seat the sewing hook assembly while timing the machine correctly by not setting it far enough down in the drive pinion Fig 23 before tightening the screws in Fig 22 item #2. What I would do is follow the instructions for "How to pull out the sewing hook from machine" page 19, clean, reinstall and then do the necessary adjustments on pages 16, 17 and 18 of the Juki LU-562 manual. Good manual located at : https://www.manualslib.com/manual/790496/Juki-Lu-562.html?page=13#manual kgg

What I liked about the video is it actually showed how the basic lock stitch is formed. Showing the relationship between the main stitch forming components (the top thread, needle, bobbin thread, bobbin and the shuttle hook). You can read about how a lock stitch is made, sew every day on a machine or watch computer generated illustrations but for the most part it is difficult to see and get that visual impression. This short video I thought would give anyone a great visual insight to how a lock stitch sewing machine basic function works whether it is a patcher, cylinder bed, post bed or flat bed a great visual insight. kgg

Which model of Techsew? I can't seem to find any reference to a Techsew 441. kgg

I going to assume you mean that you are planning on removing the 45mm pulley that is on the clutch motor and installing it on the servo motor. If the diameter of the hole in 45mm pulley is the correct size for the shaft of the servo motor, yes it would probably be a good match. If the hole in the pulley is to small you will need to ream it out, if too large you would need to sleeve the hole down or just buy a 45mm pulley that correctly matches the servo motor shaft. kgg

Interesting detailed video of how the Chinese Patchers form their stitch. Title: Chinese Leather Shoe Patcher : a 3-point turn to lock a stitch Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOliY3NHg_A kgg

I feel your pain. It all comes down to the judge and their expedience / knowledge. Where I come from we don't know the Lab as a Lab it was always called the St. John's dog and they were a very much different dog then what you typically see today. It would be quite a struggle to get most of todays Labs from the water and over the side into your boat. Now they are more commonly referred to as Pig-a-Dors. A close friend of mine, who has done very well with a couple of her yellow females, I tell her to never bring them to me as I would put them to the back of the line. I could go on with breeds that have become a poor representation of what they once were but really it is safe to say I do feel your pain and frustration. kgg

That's what it is all about -- problem, try, try, try, ah solution, refine solution. I don't think there is a one size fits all answer but maybe for a future situation / problem someone can build upon the suggestions to resolve their issue. kgg

With breeds that can still have a job working you will fine variances but still within the standard for the breed. In my breed you can get everything from the couch potatoes or the hunters. Almost all will do their job but the hunters are hard too live with, they want to hunt 24/7. The higher the prey drive the more they will scream which sounds like if you tried to neutered a boy without the benefit of anesthetic. Since every bred has it faults the benefit of purchasing a purebred is they are easier to contend with and a reputable breeder will bred around them to minimize future problems. Whereas mixed breeds may windup doubling up on the faults of multiple breeds and which can result in devastating health problems. kgg

I commend your effort and the solution you are working towards. Your spool configuration reminds me of the old fashion industrial size wooden spools or a scaled up version of the domestic spools. What I am getting is that, Gymnast didn't see in his trails the uncoiling problems which may have to do with the quality / type of the thread (brand name vs unknown manufacturer) and dikman pointed out the problem some, me included, have had with cheap Chinese nylon 8 oz (226 g ) spools of thread particularly black. For me I tried placing the problem 8 oz spools on various angles from upside down, like Gymnast has, to the normal standing straight up position and found the best angle to have the spool placed horizontally. My solution may not solve the tension problems associated with twisting of the thread and it's affect with domestic style machines, which can be a bit more temperamental to thread issues, but should help. Did you get a response to the thread manufacturer? Also on this side of the pond American & Efird is no longer supplying 8 oz spools, maybe it is their problem child as well or just a demand problem. kgg