kgg

I would recommend you install a metal roof, it will be a little more expense but faster to install. The rain will run off easier and with such a low roof profile any snow will have an easier time sliding or snow raking it off. You will find that it will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer particularly with the air gap of the 2x4 strapping. Here your 25 year (haha) shingles last about 6 to 8 years with serious deterioration starting around year 3 to 4. A lot or all of the shingles have become ECO friendly, less or no real tar, and wind up in the landfill quicker. kgg

Maybe you can get the local wildlife / animal control or trapper to live trap and relocate him. kgg

Nice to know what is lurking around on the property when the lights go down particularly if you have animals. I have had problems with bobcats and fishers in the past, I think the fishers were nastier. Now since the government has released cougar in the area some of the neighbours / farmers are having problems. I think it if it was on my property it would have a terrible reaction to lead and do the 3 S's (shoot, shovel, shut-up). kgg

Try Landis International ( http://landisinternational.ca ) for parts, their phone number is Toll-free: 1-800-634-0806. kgg

The only thing I can add is to upgrade whatever machine you decide on by getting it with a servo motor for more accurate speed control. The speed control learning curve of a servo motor will be so much easier, less intimidating and thus provide better results. I am going to assume you are using a serger to do the edges, if so you my want to look into using a folder and/or a binding attachment to accomplish similar results but stronger rather then investing in another machine. kgg

I agree whole heartily with Wiz on this one. I have been tinkering with the idea of getting a patcher for sometime as an addition to my flatbed Juki and find the Chinese patcher discussion very interesting. I would not be expecting the Chinese patcher to do exceptional work, have a smooth operation profile or look pretty. It just needs to be able to do limited basic sewing that would be easier done with a patcher machine. The cost saving for me over some of the brand names (new and used) is substantial particularly considering the amount of use I will give it. kgg

Have you contacted the dealer / supplier? They maybe able to offer some suggestions. If you got it from Amazon you maybe able to return it, if from Ebay you maybe out of luck. kgg

Since it is just trying to warn the foolish / stupid so I think it should have had a couple of more tags on it. Big red arrow on the blade with the words "Maybe Sharp." "Operator must be trained in the proper use of a deadly weapon and stored in a locked weapon safe at all times." "Keep body parts away from sharp end, not recommended for picking ones nose or a** scratching." kgg

The needles according to the Sailrite site for the Fabricator comes with System 135 X 17 needles up to size #24 which would be for v207. Those needles are made for material (cloth / canvas), for leather and vinyl you need to use System 135 X 16 and for a thread size of V92 you could use a # 18 on the low end or a #20 on the upper end. I would use the #20 needles with V92, as it would provide a slightly larger hole for the thread to slip through. kgg

From your bio you mention your speciality is holsters for that I think you are going to need something in the class of a Juki 441 machine probably like the Cobra class 3 or 4 class, Cowboy 3200 or 4500. Since you are in Alberta you may want to checkout Leightons Mach line ( http://www.leightons.ca ) in Red Deer or Longeview Leather ( http://www.longviewleather.com ) Cobra dealer in Longview. See what they recommend and have used capable of sewing your stuff. Another alternative maybe a hand lever machine similar to the Tippmann Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw. Which ever way you decide to go it is not going to be cheap. kgg

Have you checked out the following video, it my offer so help in setting the servo motor even through it is for a Juki 8700. kgg

I agree that general instructions when dealing with dog owners generally is to give basic instructions. Like the dogs and forget about being to specific. Hell, we see it all the time that an owner buys a collar, puts it on the dog and forgets about it. The only time it is removed and hopefully cleaned is when the dog gets groomed. I have even had to cut collars off, particularly the metal choke chains. Drives me nuts. Just getting them to remove the collar everyday is a step in the right direction of keeping the dog healthy and the collar maintained. Personally I like the Martingale style collars leather or nylon because it is always worn slackish around the neck until you need it too slightly tighten. kgg

Do as Constabulary suggested, check for a label. The thread spool should usually be marked with a label on the inside of the bottom of the spool. With newer sewing thread it should be marked as V ##, T## or Tkt ## plus the manufacturer and type as well as other info. I have seen some of the less expense Chinese bonded nylon with just the Tkt size on the label. The difference between V69 and V92 is same, only .0018" or .0045mm difference which can make it hard to distinguish at times so sorting them out is a good idea. kgg

The forum started to work correctly for me sometime yesterday. Thanks again, kgg

Nice informative pdf. I would suggest adding a couple of things: 1. Before purchasing any firearm ask yourself is this the right calibre, barrel length and what you would like to do with it (target shooting, hunting, protection, etc.). 2. Have the owner pass the revolver to you with the cylinder open so you can determine it is unloaded and safe before handling it. See if the gun fits comfortably and is balanced in your hand. 3. Since appearance is important in helping to determine how the gun was cared for check visually that there are no major flaws like deep scratches or dents with the finish, modified sights, stripped screws, frame cracked, buckled/split/bent/bulged barrel, cracked / modified grips or any major modifications attempted. Does the finish look different on the barrel, cylinder versus the frame indicating parts replaced. 3. When checking the barrel look for excessive wear to the internal rifling of the barrel. The sharper looking the edges are the less wear on that barrel. 4. If the gun checks out arrange to go to a range and test fire to make sure it suits your needs / comfort level. Maybe a nice well cared for XX calibre but can you properly handle / control it or is going to sit you on your butt every time you squeeze that trigger. My thoughts, kgg

I pity you Johanna, there is also hiccups when software or hardware is upgraded or changed. Some things don't like to play nice with other things. Best of luck, kgg

That is great news, I'm sure Johanna will straighten it out shortly. Thanks for the update. kgg

So I not any crazier today then I was yesterday. That means it is happening in Canada and Britain. kgg

Not sure if I have this in the right place. Has any had the problem of not being properly redirected to the Forum page? I am being sent to the index page even through the location is suppose to be ( leatherworker.net/forum) have had to go through the index page and then click on Forums. It started to happen last night for me about 10pm. kgg

I think you maybe better off with a steel bodied portable walking foot to multiple layers. Reliable Barracuda (~$500 US at Homedepot), Sailrite LS series(~$900 US), Techsew 611(~$500 US) come to mind. kgg

Harry just buy it and tuck it amongst the rest, she'll never even notice. kgg

Hi wlg1908, I would suggest that you check with your local hardware / flooring store, somewhere they sell laminate flooring. The only difference I see between the one you listed and the one I sometimes use is the adhesive backing. Having the adhesive ability maybe a benefit to have for what you are doing. Checkout the flooring store and see if they have a scrap to try. The one I use is called Black Knight ( https://melmart.com/brands/black-night/ ) made as 1/8" underlay for laminate flooring which is also closed celled with a vapour barrier adhered to it that easily peels off. I use this as a anti skid pad on the bottom of dog beds and knee rests type stuff as it also doesn't shrink. Hell haven't even had any problems with machine washing / drying it. Sewing it can be a bit awkward at times as the material is semi flexible but can be a bit sticky on the needle / thread. kgg

I would get the client to supply the mags as JLSLeather suggested, old mags would be preferred just in case you damage them. There are just too many round capacity options for the Beretta mag available. You can get from 10 to 30 round capacity as well as a 2 round bottom extension option that completely changes the bottom look of the mag which may affect your design of the holder. Since a lot of shooters are very particular about their equipment the client may be worried about water damage to the mags if you are planning on wet moulding a holder. A possible solution maybe to strip the guts out of the mags and seal them with something like cellophane. I would suggest you have a discussion with the client outlining how you are planning on doing the holder outlining the pros and cons. kgg

I would suggest first you have a quick look at the manual ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/940225/Singer-15-91.html ). The 15-91 can take V92 thread with a #20 needle but is better suited for V69 with a #18 needle. I prefer the bonded polyester thread over the bonded nylon particularly black. To get the tension right ensure you have the bobbin installed so it spins in a counter clockwise motion and then do a drop test. To much thread tension the bobbin will not spin in the case and to little it will fall to the floor. The object is to be able to pick the bobbin case with the bobbin in it by the end of the thread so it unwinds counter clock a bit when you give it a slight jerk on the end of the thread. If you change thread size you have to check/change the bobbin tension. The top thread will be a matter of using a scrape of material and adjusting the top tensioner dial to higher or lower numbers once you have threaded the machine correctly. Start with the top tensioner dial about half way around the number 4 position. Using different materials / thickness/ thread size will mean that you will have to adjust the tensioner dial accordingly to get a nice stitch. I would use some cheap fabric like an old piece of jean material and with the stitch length dial set to the lowest number to start, lever to the bottom. This should help you with getting use to the feel of the small foot peddle and how hard you need to push down for what speed. The main down fall I see with the 15-91 is going to be the eventual motor replacement. kgg

The singer 212g140 manual says the machine was a double needle compound feed with no reverse while the 141 had reverse. Made for sewing garments like coveralls, coats, corsets, bras. kgg