kgg

On the surface the Tandy machine made by Sailrite seems to be a version of the LS-1 put in a small table with a Sailrite servo motor. The price would deter me. In Ontario for about the same dollars you can buy a industrial Juki 1541S c/w full size table and servo motor. Am I missing something? kgg

I do have experience of owing / using the Reliable Barracuda 200ZW and really had no problems with it but understanding it wasn't a industrial machine. It preformed the tasks I asked however I would recommend that you purchase a heavier flywheel (Monster) kit. If you think the Sailrite portable could do the job then the Baracuda will probably do it as well just easier on the pocket book. As far as budget goes new it would run you about $500 US. If you are looking at attachments like a binder for the machine the two mounting holes in the base will have to be tapped to accept the hold down screws. kgg

Actually the machine looks like an older Merrow 3 thread overlock crochet blanket machine like a model A-3d w3. kgg

Did you check this place. https://www.gwjcompany.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64 kgg

Maybe ok for a collector not a machine I would consider usable. kgg

I did see a post bed machine once with a removal table attachment that the person had mounted a binder attachment similar to the swing away type that Sailrite sells which can be had elsewhere like ebay. As far as a slowly it down more a servo motor I think would be the best method and you can check with some of the vendors on the forum who should be able to suggest the best wattage and accessories for your needs. kgg

Out of curiosity have you tried not to raise the needle the 1/4 " before lifting the feet but having the needle buried deeper so you can just clear the material. The reason I ask is that with so materials, the bottom layer of material can sometimes be sucked/pushed down under the feet dog slightly depending on the material, how aggressive the feed dog is, how high the feed dog is set and how much pressure the foot is applying to the material. This with the material being twisted may cause the thread to catch slightly. An example of this would be thick ripstop on top and say a terry type material on the bottom. The terry will definitely get sucked in slightly.

First question to answer would be have you decided whether you are planning on hand stitching or machine stitching your items that you plan on making. kgg

I am not familiar with the thread you are using as it compares to "V" size but since you are using a #18 needle I am going to assume it's V69 or max V92 equivalent. If it thicker you will need to go up to the correct needle size. What I found best for my Juki 1541s was to have the needle on the upstroke, stop the machine raise the foot off the material using the knee lift and carefully turn the material 90 degrees so as not to bend/deflect the needle also will I keep my bobbin tension normally a little more on the high side of tight. kgg

Works ok with Cyberfox. kgg

Two things you can't get way from Taxes and Death, that's right they have a tax on that to. kgg

Try Chris at Japan Sewing in Richmond Hill Ontario CA (905) 764-0100. kgg

This I think is a mechanical problem not a needle problem. Techsew should help guide you through correcting the problem.

The one on the right appears to be the same as the one in my Juki 1541S (I have it in my hand) however it could be the angle of the photo but it appears to be missing the flat bluish coloured tension spring that puts pressure on the bobbin. The one on the left maybe specific to the Consew line or someone changed it. I agree with Wiz that the mechanic should be notified and he/she has made a mistake. kgg

If it is a Glaco-Astra machine I would check with Texas Sewing Machines Distributors in Texas as I think they are sold them. kgg

I think the forum overall is pretty damn good and the slow access periods are mostly on my end. Depends on what else we are doing both on/off line (me/son/wife) are doing at the same time. Some of the slower responses are probably more dependant on the number of registered users/guess users that are accessing the site at one time, their method of accessing the internet (phone lines/cable/cellular/ etc), computing power and whether the users provider is throttling back because of the number of users on their system. There are just so many variables taking place behind the scenes that a user may not be aware of why access sometimes to a particular site is slower that day then last week. kgg

For the presser foot issue is this similar to the problem you had previous with this machine?

This is really nice work. True art. You and your wife should be proud of it. A lot of work and stress as if it didn't come out right you may have been moving to the dog house. kgg

What some of the things I would look for would be: i. overall condition of machine / table ii. does it sew properly iii. is there any crunching / grinding noises when sewing iv. is there excessive machine vibrations / shaking while sewing v. excessive side to side slack in the needle rod and the foot vi. is the motor overly noisy or you get a burning smell vii. large amount of rust or signs of wear on the shafts / bearings in the bottom of the machine viii. does reverse work and does the needle reverse back in the same holes created when sewing forward. kgg

I agree with Bikermutt07 doing work this way is the best way. With every project I find there is always one step that I will hate and I mean hate doing but by doing multiple copies in an assembly type process I get through that step all in one go. Get it out of my system so to speak then back to the enjoyment without thinking I got to do that _____ step again. kgg

I happen to notice a cute video of someone this morning who needed a longarm flatbed sewing machine for her quilting. She re-built a Singer 66 into a longarm for her needs. On her blog she has some pictures and steps of how she did it. I know it's not for leather and may not last but I thought it was a pretty ingenious solution to reuse an old machine with some basic tools. Use /Abuse/Reuse kgg

It maybe just the angle of the photos but to me it looks like your machines stitch length is not consistent even on the straight runs. I would first remove the top thread from the needle then take a piece of paper and do a straight run of 12 stitches with the motor, measure the distance between each hole and then do a straight run of 12 stitches by hand wheeling them through, once again measure the distance between each hole. All the holes whether they are made by using the motor or by hand should be the same. If the stitch length is a little iffy it may explain why the tension problem on the bottom. kgg

I am not sure how many bells and whistles the Durkopp had or has but if it has /had a panel for functions I would be very vary of accessibility to and the cost of them down the road. I would give serious consideration to a cylinder bed (new or used) machine with a flat bed attachment it may give you the best of both worlds. I would also go visit a dealer or dealers with samples who are knowledgeable with setting up a machine for your leather work needs. Buy once, cry once. kgg

A really nice job on the holster. kgg

I agree with bikermutt07. Holster type thickness/thread/toughness is going to require a completely different machine then what would be required to do a wallet. No one machine is going to be able to give or be able to give constant results over a large range of materials / thickness / toughness, you will be forever fiddling with changing threads, needles, tensions, feet, binders, etc. I think you need to consider multiple machines, if the budget allows, and set them up to do the task that they do best. That way once they are tuned in every time you work them it should/will give constant results. Less hassle, more enjoyment, more productive. kgg