kgg
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Everything posted by kgg
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Overall very nice, clean to the point, price right there under each item and pages load fast. My threshold is under 3 seconds load-time or I'm gone. I would suggest: 1. Providing contact info like address and phone number. 2. Reduce information about the type of leather used. If you use "Wickett & Craig full-grain leather" put it on the front page rather then in each item unless you use something different.
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In my last posts I said ' (where there are two threads) " it should have said (the large guide just below where there are two threads in the guide). kgg
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In your last photo there is a thread retaining screw, spring and flat plate that is missing in the last large guide before the needle (where there are two threads). This holds the thread flat against the guide before the thread goes through the guide hole just above the needle. I think this is to keep the thread in a consistent position during up and down stroke of the needle so it don't flap around.
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Just to add to my previous post. How I check the tension on my Juki 1541S is with the bobbin in the case I pull out about 6 inches and hold the end of the tread and let the bobbin / case rest flat in my other hand. I then try to lift the works up by the thread. If the bobbin case and bobbin doesn't stand up vertically and the works remain flat in my hand with the bobbin spinning easily I tighten the thread tension spring screw. If it lifts off my hand with no thread coming off the bobbin, I loosen the thread tension spring screw. I like the bobbin case to stand up and the bobbin spin with a little resistance in the case. I only thread the bobbin to about 80 percent. kgg
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Could be as simple as a bad spool of thread with the thread on the spool temporarily binding or uneven unravelling from spool. I think the size of needle may also being playing a factor, 18 or 20 g depending on thickness of material). I have had the problem when I over loaded the bobbin combined with incorrectly threading the bobbin. I needed to adjust the stop on the bobbin winder and re thread a fresh bobbin correctly ( in through the hole of the bobbin disc bracket from the spool, around the disc, out through the same hole then to the bobbin case on the winder. A couple photos of your top threading may help to spot something.
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looks nice kgg
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Altering flat bed accessory for cylinder arm
kgg replied to Ceejay's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
All joking aside, I do think that you are going to have a uphill struggle with a lot of work to try and make the table as well as the table top look acceptable, properly balance the weight of the machine (I think would be in the 80 lb plus range) and must importantly work properly / safely. Unless you have the equipment and skill to make the necessary changes I would return it to the seller and wait the double of weeks for the proper one that will safely fit your machine. kgg -
Altering flat bed accessory for cylinder arm
kgg replied to Ceejay's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Na if it was made in Canada probably boy scout, blunt pocket knife, a bottle of Red Bull in one hand and a toke in the other. kgg -
Altering flat bed accessory for cylinder arm
kgg replied to Ceejay's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I would as Jimi said talk to the seller as from the photo's the flatbed attachment is of poor workmanship, looks like someone's first rough cut. Also I don't think the main table is the correct table for that machine as it looks as if the front of the base is slightly over hanging the edge. Overall it looks like someone had a regular flatbed K frame sewing table that they hacked out the middle and tried to reuse the scrap. What machine is this, I think it is a clone of the Juki LS 1341. kgg -
Pfaff 545 - Tread Pickup Lever Lifting Product Up
kgg replied to Kryptonite's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I think if you haven't changed the threading path of the thread from the photo the problem is when you threaded the top post tension pin in the second hole then going back up to the first hole before you then threaded the thread into the second hole of the second guide then went directly in the little circular tension guide just before the main thread tensioner. When you threaded through the small circular guide did the thread click in place? Is there a large amount of tension on the thread after the thread passes through the small circular guide? I think you may have a top thread tension issue contributed to by the thread path before your main tensioner which may explain why there doesn't seem to be enough slack in the thread so the top thread is lifting the material to get slack. kgg -
You could maybe sew a patch over or behind the hole with similar leather and put a false pocket flap over it to match the other pocket flap. kgg
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With a name and date of birth it would be easy to get an address and then magically become that person to do who knows what. Sometimes it pays to be a little paranoid and ask what for. A friend of mine had his identity stolen from a old electricians licence which back in the day had his social insurance number on it. Name, address, social insurance number bingo. He had a hell of a time getting it sorted out. kgg
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New industrial sewing machine table, where to buy?
kgg replied to myjtp's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I agree with Gregg forget the particle board table tops they will not give you longevity, the surface top will lift more easily from the particle board, twist more with humidity changes and are not as strong as plywood constructed tops. Inexpensive alternative? Maybe. kgg -
New industrial sewing machine table, where to buy?
kgg replied to myjtp's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
If you have a good frame you would only need to only buy a top which would save a few bucks. I would also check Atlas Levy as well. http://www.atlaslevy.com/Complete-Table-Stand-For-Industrial-Sewing-Machines-Standard-_p_599.html -
It comes down to dollars and cents. Cheaper to replace non spec equipment IF the end user (us the customer) complains. I would think with mash production, probably in China, the manufacturer probably does spot checks on first tear client equipment and expects the client to be responsible for any further checks on the rest. kgg
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I looked at your video, clearly shows no load startup at a couple of low settings. I would forward it on to Techsew to show them what you are contending with. The motor might have gotten a bang during shipment. I know I would definitely not be satisfied with that motors functionally or confidence in it's longevity. kgg
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Nice idea, multi purpose guide. kgg
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hi KennethM Have you tried removing the drive belt and seeing what happens with the motor having no startup load of the belt or machine? Or remove the feet from the machine all together and see what happens. Keep us up to date. kgg
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I would with no question purchase a new machine with similar capabilities to the Ferdco unless the price of the Ferdco wasn't substantially lower then a new machine. I would be thinking of warranty and the availability of support, parts, accessories and repairs. kgg
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Explain to the people what you are planning on sewing mostly from the thinnest to the thickest material. Remember there is no one machine for everything that is why a lot of people have more then one machine. I would also look at the following video's by Sewing Gold as they give a good comparison between the Juki ddl 8700 (taylor machine) the du 1181n walking foot and the dnu-1541s (unison feed) all sewing the same light, medium and heavy fabrics. The Juki dnu 1508 (unison feed) will be supposedly a little heavier duty then the 1541s with a double thread adjustment. They have good sound and video as a future comparison reference. kgg Juki ddl-8700 Juki DU-1181N Juki DNU-1541S
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Did you buy the machine directly from Techsew or a dealer? Did the feet stick before you replaced them with the smooth feet? Once you check the links place the original ones back on and see if still happens. The new ones may need to be adjusted or filed a bit to give more side clearance. As far as the motor goes: 1. I would check the voltage at that plug anyway like Wiz said. If possible, plug it into another plug on a different circuit. 2. Remove the belt from the motor so there is no load on the motor during startup and see if you get a high rpm jump. 3. Check and see if the connection from the sewing table foot peddle to the motor level is adjusted properly and see if there is anything jamming the motors actuating rod or something got buckled during shipment. If you are getting smooth no load control you maybe having other internal issues related to the sewing machine itself that are causing an initial high load condition on the motor. As far as "needing more juice" unless you are having problems with other appliances / computers, lights constantly dimming or the machine is plugged into a circuit with high motor loads like fridges or deep freezes, I doubt a "juice" problem. Will that be orange or tomato juice with your veg? I am guessing that you have a bum motor. kgg
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First I would call Techsew and explain your problems to them (no maintenance manual, sticky foot lift and servo motor high starting rpm). The info on their website says the 1460 comes with a their 550 watt servo motor with 12 settings between 0 and 3450 rpm. In the interim I would remove the front cover and see if there is something obviously loose or broken. If nothing is obvious oil the hell out of everything also check the foot lifting mechanism as well as the knee lift links. kgg
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First Juki is what all the clones are being copied after these days regardless of who's badge is on the machine. I could be wrong but the last info I had was the Juki 1541's were the only ones now being made in Japan and the rest in China. Since this is going to be a large outlay of cash I would suggest visiting a Juki dealer with a sample of material and see what results their machines can offer then go to Toledo Sewing with the same sample and compare or vice versa. Compare the sewing results, the sound of the machines (does one sound rough in comparison to the other), balance of the machine (vibrations), speed control, availability of accessories and most importantly dealer support. Dealer support before and after the sale plays a very important part in the purchase of a new machine. Having a dealer relatively close, willing and able to tune your machine to your needs can be invaluable. Then you can make a educated decision as to which machine will be the best for you and your money. Since I am in Canada, I have not tried or seen any of the machines like the Cobras, Cowboys, Artisans and others which are common amongst a lot of the US members but have fine reputations for their machines and support. When I compared a couple of clone machines against the Juki machines up here there was no comparison they sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around in comparison and just as if not more expensive. I purchased the Juki 1541s for my needs. I figured Buy once, Cry once. My two cents worth, kgg
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I would do as R8R suggested and if you are still a little unsure about something repost what you are trying to do and the problem you are having. Pictures / video can be very helpful. This way the problem could be narrowed down to the root cause and suggestions can be given. kgg