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kgg

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Everything posted by kgg

  1. Since you are a distance away from any industrial sewing machine dealers a couple of points to consider: 1. Are there any sewing machine repair shops fairly close to you that repair industrial sewing machines? If so visit them and bring a sample of what you are planning on sewing and ask them for some advise. They will be able to tell what is common equipment in your area that they have experience with and maybe a good future repair resource. Also they may have a good used machine as well. 2. If the distance isn't to great to a dealer plan on a visit, once again bring a sample. Treat this as a part of your investment as you are planning on spending a lot of dollars to get the right equipment. 3. Check with multi dealers as there can be a substantial dollar difference between dealers of the same machine. For me there was approximately $1000 difference even through there was a dealer an hour away, I drove 4.5 hours each way. 4. Demand that the machine be sewn off and that sample to be included with the machine. This will help with not just getting a machine fresh out of the factory but a machine that someone had to set up, thread and sew on. kgg
  2. You have selected some nice machines to choose from. The questions I have would be dealer support / warranty, cost of accessories like binder attachments / feet / etc and the cost of repair / maintenance parts after warranty. Here Alder and Pfaff are expensive to purchase / maintain with little support where as Juki are more common with access to a lot more after market parts / accessories. If money was no object I still would have a hard time justifying the purchase of the Alder no matter how good. I would be asking is the Alder anywhere from twice or ten times as good as the other machines. Hell if you bought the Juki made in China you could replace it every year for the next 9 years with warranty. That is assuming it is a Juki not a Juki clone. I would suggest going to a Juki dealer with a sample of material and compare the quality of the Juki machines from Japan and China as they seem to be moving more of their construction of machines to China. When I was looking to purchase a new machine some of the Juki clone machines sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around in comparison to the real Juki. kgg
  3. The first picture is really a domestic (home) sewing machine for fabric where as the second one is a Tippmann Boss suppose to be able to sew up to 3/4 " thick leather. First figure out how thick the total material is going to be, decide if you want a flatbed or a cylinder bed machine and then decide if you are going to buy new or a good used one. I think you my need a budget of $800-1000 for a good used sewing machine c/w table and servo motor while you could expect needing a $2000 budget for a new machine c/w table and servo motor. If you want to get away from hand stitching then I would forget the hand lever style cylinder machines. I think you will get better / faster stitching results if you have both hands to hold your projects with rather then one to hold and one to pull the lever. kgg
  4. The two fittings on the exterior of the lube pot seem to be adjustable to accommodate different thread sizes. I figure they could be tightened in around the thread to provide a more even amount of lube on the thread and help kept excess lube from dripping over the machine. One fitting for lubing the bobbin thread since it is directly above the bobbin thread guide and the other fitting facing the top tension discs for the top thread. Just my thought, kgg
  5. I agree with Constabulary given the choice I would choose the white one as parts should be more readily available. With so many clones available the white one could also be a Robin Industry RC-03 Shoe Sewing Machine, they use a red hand crank handle on the side wheel. kgg
  6. The Juki LU-1508NH is a really nice machine but I guess it would depend on ones budget as I would expect it to be probably around $1300 or $1400 US more then the CB3200. kgg
  7. The Juki will max out with #138 so if you want to go higher the Cowboy 3200 should be the one to considered. kgg
  8. I do own a Juki 1541S and it can use up to v138 thread where as the CB3200 has a better range of usable threads sizes v69 to V346. Yes the Juki maybe more user friendly but with a flat table top attachment on the Cowboy 3200 you would get the best of both worlds. I would suggest taking / sending a sample of what you are planning to sew to a dealer and ask for suggestions. If you do go with the Juki get the 1541S not the 1541 and yes you are going to pay extra for the safety feature. The "S" stands for safety clutch and will disengage the hook when to much load is put on the hook drive so you won't damage something or the timing. kgg
  9. Chriscraft go get your eyes and blood tested the over the counter lenses my be good for awhile but. Like Northmount going to have to wait for 60 to come around again. I always had to where glasses for long distance and take them off to read or do close work. Then in the my late 40's became a type 2 diabetic and closer work started to be not as clear. Could never get use to those transition lenses, got sea sick bobbin up and down like a seal trying to find the sweet spot. So now I use a prescription distance glasses for normal daily activities, prescription reading glasses for detail / sewing / cutting that type of stuff and for computer / reading / writing / repair no glasses. Like an old guy once told me the only thing golden about getting older is the colour of your. Now I am that old guy. kgg
  10. A couple of pictures of what you are trying to fold (hem) would be a help. Would the fold (hem) be hidden if so you can get away with a raw edge hemmer? If you are going to be see the fold (hem) I would suggest a finish edge hemmer or use a double fold binder attachment. Whichever way you decide to go the two screw holes that these accessories are attached to the bed of the sewing machine need to be checked as some are not factory threaded to accept the hold down screws like a Reliable Barracuda that I owned and will need to be tapped. I don't think a 1/2" standard raw edge or finish edge hemmer is going to have wide enough openings to allow for 4oz leather to go through. kgg
  11. Overall it looks in good shape and appears to be a hand crank variant of the singer 191j or m around the mid 1950's. I think the knob on the left is for setting stitch length and the one on the right is the forward (down position)/ reverse (lever all the way up). When you get it figured out I think you will be surprised at the stitch and what it can go through. The max thread is probably rated V69 but you should be able to push V92 through. kgg
  12. Looking at the picture it looks it was already converted to 120 volt using a 120 volt clutch motor as there seems to be a standard 120 volt plug hanging down that is connected to the 380 volt rated switch. Still would try and get the price down as you will want to put either speed reducer pulleys on it or a servo motor for speed control. Had clutch motors in the past and will never go back. kgg
  13. Here was back in Jan or Feb here in Ontario a batch of 30 of those that were sold for about $200 and if I remember correctly a couple of members bought some of them. Hopefully they will advise you about their experience. Like dikman I would be concerned with parts / service. I would have a tendency to pass on that machine, there are simpler solutions available with a whole lot less expensive electronics / accessories to fail down the road. I would take a sample of the the layers of materials, go visit a dealer / repair shop and see what they would recommend new or used. kgg
  14. Have you contacted Bridgewater Sewing Centre ( http://www.bridgewatersewingcentre.com/ ) they may be able to help with a new or used machine. I think they would only be about 1 1/2 hours from Wolfville. With them being so close you could take a couple of pieces and compare a flatbed too a cylinder bed and see what works best for your stuff. kgg
  15. I have to agree with Eric on the polyester thread. It is much nicer to use, not as stiff, comes off the spool more evenly as well as nicer bobbin winding / unwinding particularly as it nears the end. I use thread sizes #69, #92 and occasionally #138 depending on the dog related item. I have found that Coats bonded polyester #69 is standing up better to bleach then the #69 bonded nylon does. Example would be our incontinence pads 27" x 50" ( takes two to cover bottom of our 4' x 4'-6" HDPE whelping box). Constructed with waterproof ripstop, muslin, absorbent middle and ripstop binding on edges were washed / dried once a day in a heavy bleach concentration for 8 weeks straight. The result was no fraying or thread failures on any of the 24 incontinence pads unlike nylon thread the only problem was some colour fading of the ripstop. kgg
  16. You have adjusted top thread tensions and bobbin tensions have you checked to see if when you do reverse for back tacking that the needle actually follows back in the same holes. Like Wiz and Michiel have suggested that it may a timing issue. Do a quick test with no thread in the needle using a sheet of paper under the presser feet. Hand wheel through a few stitches then reverse and see if the needle falls through those forward stitches. The needle should go through the same holes.
  17. You said you have tried different tension setting. I am assuming you were talking about the top thread. Have you checked the bottom thread tension? If not try adjusting the bobbin tension. To get the tension right on your bobbin thread in a flatbed machine and I am sure it would probably be similar in a cylinder machine. Thread the bobbin to about 80 percent and make sure it is inserted in the case so the thread comes off the bobbin in the correct direction. Then what I would do is: with the bobbin in the case but before it is placed in the machine. Pull out about 6 inches and hold the end of the tread and let the bobbin / case rest flat in your other hand. If the bobbin spins easily in the case tighten the thread tension spring screw. If you can lift the bobbin and case off your hand with no thread coming off the bobbin then loosen the thread tension spring screw on the case. I like the bobbin case to stand up and the bobbin move sightly but not spin easily in the case. Try a test piece holding both threads for first couple of stitches, back tack and adjust tensions accordingly if neccessary. Also every time you change thread size, type or manufacturer of thread check the bobbin thread and top thread tensions. kgg
  18. kgg

    Prosthetic Project

    That is wonderful, great workmanship and giving back the joy / relaxation that shooting provides to this person. As always necessity is the mother of invention. kgg
  19. I agree with Wiz and if you want to eliminate the monotonous effort of hand stitching and increase your productivity then you are going to need a heavy duty stitcher. Increase your budget and purchase something with capabilities a little above what you need now for future projects. kgg
  20. I prefer to just do the prep work for all the items first which I fine a real pain in the ...... then leave it for a day. Start fresh and then bang them out in one stretch. kgg
  21. Do a quick test with no thread in the needle.Place a sheet of paper under the presser feet and hand wheel through a seam of a dozen stitches then measure. They should all be consistent spacing. It maybe 6.2mm with no load but as the thickness / toughness of the material increases may be less. kgg
  22. Any chance of showing the thread path from the spool of thread to the bobbin tension discs onto the bobbin winder. kgg
  23. I agree with R8R for the money I would look at a new machine. Not one that in the worst case was hammered to death in a factory environment unless the price was really, really good and you could do the repairs yourself. I would look at a new machine not necessarily with all the fancy do da's but a machine that would do the job plus a little bit for future. My thought is the more computer controlled features the more expensive the maintenance / repairs down the road and parts are going to be expensive.
  24. I think all you need to do is make sure the needle is at its highest point and hand wheel it a touch more. With some machines you will hear a slight click of the thread being let go. To get the tension right on your bobbin thread in a flatbed machine and I am sure it would probably be similar in a cylinder machine what I do is: with the bobbin in the case but before it is placed in the machine. Pull out about 6 inches and hold the end of the tread and let the bobbin / case rest flat in your other hand. If the bobbin spins easily in the case tighten the thread tension spring screw. If you can lift the bobbin and case off your hand with no thread coming off the bobbin then loosen the thread tension spring screw on the case. I like the bobbin case to stand up and the bobbin spin sightly not spin easily in the case. Also only thread the bobbin to about 80 percent and make sure it is inserted in the case so the thread comes off the bobbin in the right direction. kgg
  25. I wonder does the tariff apply just to sewing machines made in China that are shipped directly to the US verses machines made in China shipped to Canada branded by a seller and then shipped to the US. kgg
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