kgg

I have always seemed to have had a problem with 8 oz spools of bonded nylon thread particularly black of uncoiling then the excess thread going under the bottom of the spool and getting jammed. I do like the smaller 8 oz spool size as it gives more colour options rather then having to purchase the 1 lb. spools. Tried various methods of stopping the excessive uncoiling of thread with the traditional way of standing the coil straight up on the thread spool rack. None of my methods seemed to work and even on occasion had it happen with 1 lb. spools. Never had it happen with bonded polyester thread, hum. My solution seems to have worked. I mounted the 8 oz. spool or troublesome 1 lb. spool horizontally using stuff I had on hand (2 - turn buckles, 1' of scrap pipe 3/8" pipe, adjustable grooming arm, 2 eye bolts). The turn buckles allow the spool to swing if needed, provide support to the spool and unhook to allow for a spool change. I placed one eye bolt about halfway up the 8 oz spool forcing the thread to always be in the middle and about 4 inches above the spool. The second eye bolt is there just in case I need to use a second thread hole. I tried 3/4" pipe and it had to much surface tension with the spool shaft but 3/8" pipe works just fine. The adjustable grooming arm allows for 2 points of height adjustment on the shaft and can be clamped to the table top anywhere. I did have to change the thread path and use the thread hole for the bobbin tensioner rather then the normal top thread path. So far all I had to do is make a minor top tension adjustment. I have attached some pictures, I hope this helps someone else. Comments always welcomed. The green cloth is under the presser foot to catch any oil drops, I just done my weekly oiling on the machine. kgg

Extremes whether cold or heat always creates hell and havoc with people, animals and all types of electrical / electronic equipment. Besides that the extreme temperatures swings in a 24 hour period can be summed up this year as, gross. kgg

Try using V92 on the top and V69 in the bobbin it may result in the knot being more in the centre. You will probably have to re adjust the bobbin tension to give you the right tension. kgg

A couple of pictures of your thread path, how you installed the bobbin, the needle size and the thread size you are using would be of a great help to sort out you problem. kgg

Which parts were replaced? I rebuilt a couple of 127 and 128 over the years and like Wiz when the machines were done they worked like the day they came off the assembly line. Something seems amiss. kgg

Should have been 180 degrees. kgg

Have you tried reverse stitching by rotating the project after about three stitches. Method would be to stitch three stitches and with the needle down all the way in your material allow the needle to come up about 1/4 of the way from it's deepest point then lift the presser foot off the material. With the presser foot lifted off the material turn your project around 90 degrees and sew back three stitches, rotate material again and continue to sew. Repeat at the end of seam. kgg

The main goal is to get the bobbin thread slightly buried in the material or nearly halfway in leather. The tensions needed are going to be different for different thickness and material type. With your top tension knob not having a dial reference number it is going to make it more difficult to get constant top thread tension. I would suggest maybe gluing a small paper disc to the tension nut then numbering it around from "0" to "5", finding a disc that has numbers on it that will fit from another machine or using a label maker to place numbers on the tension nut. Something to give you a constant reference for doing different projects. Also note that different thread size (v69 vs v92 vs v138), type (cotton vs bonded nylon vs bonded polyester) and colour (black tends to be stiffer in bonded nylon) are going to play a large part in your tension adjustment. My advise is to set the machine up with a thread / needle combination that works best for most projects, it will save time and reduce frustration with your projects. kgg

It maybe that you feed dog is set a little to high and grabbing / holding unto the material. Yes, you will have to adjust the tensions but that is going to be dependant on the type and or mixture of materials as well as the number of layers of material. Tensions for ripstop combined with Sherpa and or other fabrics is going to be different then just ripstop or just the other fabrics alone. How you combined fabrics together will also determine the necessary tensions, sometimes you may have to increase the top thread tension other times decrease it slightly and the same goes for the bobbin tension, it is going to depend on your project. Normal, most times you need to move the hand wheel slightly. What materials are you using and number of layers? Also are you using a clutch motor or servo motor? kgg

Have you tried to adjust the height of the feed dog so it's upward travel is lowered, closer to the top of the plate? Sometimes lightly sanding or polishing the teeth of the feed dog may also help with the impressions. kgg

It's just a way of using a word "vegan" in a catch phrase "vegan leather" to try and sell a lower quality man-made material. Preying on the perception of that we all should abstain from using animal products / by-products. An attempt to get the tree hugging snowflakes who want the look of leather products without them/friends feeling guilty on their perception of the effects it may have on climate change / animal rights or whatever other made-up reasons happen to be in fashion these days. BS, call it what it is a man-made material, fake material. There is nothing leather about it. kgg

I would checkout youtube and there do a search for " sailrite zippers " there are many video of installing zippers. They should give you a good idea on how to installed zippers, roughly the same techniques whether it is fabric or leather material. kgg

I would give the Leather Machine Company a call, explaining in detail what is happening, what thread you are using, what needle size and type of needle also what you need the machine to sew. I am assuming you meant 5-6 oz leather backing not 5-6 in thickness of backing leather. kgg

Yesterday -50 boots, insulated jeans, insulated work coveralls, turtle neck, hoodie, winter arctic parker. Tonight / tomorrow sweat shirt and rain jacket. I want, I need, I hope and pray for climate change +22C (72F) all year. kgg

A way to do a lap fold if you don't want to spend the money on an attachments or a extra machine or you only are going to it once in awhile is to place your material good side to good side with the edges matched then tack stitch the matching edges together every few inches or glue the matching edges together or do a full stitch run close to the edge of the matching edges. Fold the top piece over the seam to give you the layover size you want, say a 1/2", then sew down the lapped over piece. One row of stitches maybe ok depending on the size of the layover and thickness of material more then likely a 1/2" lap over will require two stitch runs to get it to lay flat. kgg

H you need to move your stuff into the house that way the coffee will stay a little warmer longer. Try and sell that to the misses. Yesterday here it was -30 C (-22 F) and today it's going to go up to +4 (39 F). That's a 34 C temperature change in about 24 hours. Winter parka or rain coat tomorrow? kgg

Welcome mcbleatherneck you should find this forum and list members a wonderful resource for all your needs. Personally I prefer the Browning Hi Power from the Belgium factory, not the military version, over the Colt 1911 but both are excellent guns. kgg

Matt, I think it's their overall support, availability of accessories, video's for their machines, video's for different projects and the quality of their machine manuals that are will written and presented in English making them easy to follow unlike some others. I still think their equipment is overpriced through. kgg

If you don't have the Elite membership at a cost of $150 US the regular price at Tandy of the machine would be $1499 US. If you like the Sailrite line of machines and support you could get an industrial machine, Fabricator, for $1495. hum kgg

For that price door is open for many other more suitable options. My thought is that it is still just a portable walking foot machine not an industrial machine that has lost it's portability. kgg

Did you thread the thread through the hole just above the needle in the needle drive shaft before threading the eye of the needle? kgg

Have you checked the way the bobbin is installed? The bobbin thread needs to be coming off the bobbin in a counter clockwise fashion otherwise weird stuff can happen to do a quick check hold the bobbin case in your right hand between your thumb and index finger, grab the thread with your left hand and pull the bobbin must rotate counter clockwise. kgg

Some of your problem also be that you are using an oversized needle for your thread size. Try a size 18 needle. kgg

On the surface the Tandy machine made by Sailrite seems to be a version of the LS-1 put in a small table with a Sailrite servo motor. The price would deter me. In Ontario for about the same dollars you can buy a industrial Juki 1541S c/w full size table and servo motor. Am I missing something? kgg

I do have experience of owing / using the Reliable Barracuda 200ZW and really had no problems with it but understanding it wasn't a industrial machine. It preformed the tasks I asked however I would recommend that you purchase a heavier flywheel (Monster) kit. If you think the Sailrite portable could do the job then the Baracuda will probably do it as well just easier on the pocket book. As far as budget goes new it would run you about $500 US. If you are looking at attachments like a binder for the machine the two mounting holes in the base will have to be tapped to accept the hold down screws. kgg