stelmackr

When I use garment weight chrome dyed leather (approx. 1.5mm thick), I pull, but at the same time I use my thumb to push and guide the leather. There is an unavoidable small stretch on the edge. I minimize the stretch by using a new blade for each project. Bob Stelmack

http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3010-00.aspx

This is just my, non-expertise, thoughts: I have three sewing machines Consew 206RB (FERDCO), Pfaff 1245 (FERDCO), and Juki 441 (FERDCO) and those with the pin have the thread going over it as Mariel's pictures show, all the machines have a hole to go through at the very top of the needle. It is located right where the needle enters the needle bar. When I am in a hurry, I always forget this one. If you have one, use it. If not ignore me. Any time I change thread, I tie the new thread to the old thread and pull it through leaving only the hole at the top of the needle and the eye of the needle (L to R) to thread. And if it was sewing good to start with I ask myself what did I just change when the sew errors started . Nine times out of ten I threaded it wrong. I do not adjust any tension until looked at the bobbin, cleaning the bobbin area and making sure the tread is feeding cleanly of the spool.

PM sent Bob Stelmack

I sent you a PM (private message) with the details from Horween for the football leather. Bob Stelmack

The Leathercraftsman by W. E. Snyder © 1936 hard cover book (no dust cover) in good condition. No marks corners show some wear and small water spot on front cover. On offer for $25 with $5 shipping to the US only. Bob Stelmack

Sorry about the joke. I have a request to Horween to ask for price quotes. I can use some for make products. Let me know what size you will need and I'll let you know the price when I know. Bob Stelmack

No suggestions, just call around and ask. I would do that, but I don't need the leather ;-) Bob Stelmack

Boy, that sure looks like some chrome tanned embossed leather I have had that I call "football" leather. see: https://www.google.com/search?q=football+leather&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=e9gaVc_dIYHcoATFvIDABg&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=1711&bih=858 Bob Stelmack

This is what I use: http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/8677/Leather-Tape-1-4-x-60-yds/ http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/8678/Leather-Tape-1-2-x-60-yds/ Bob Stelmack

I played with all the setting, but perhaps without enough time I didn't get it to do what I needed. Could have been operator error ;-) Since beveling or matting is the biggest time element for me, I thought that the Power Mallet would be the key. I have solved the beveling issue with some custom made Delrin bevelers that fit into a swivel knife in various widths and angles. Sort of like the old Tandy nylon swivel knife molding tool. Norm Lynds make my custom tools. As for matting, I've settled on Bob Beards pebble grain and they seem to work the best for me to eliminate that repeat pattern that seems to plague my use of other matters. Bob Stelmack

At one of the Pendleton Leather Shows I was able to sit down for about 30-minutes to try the Power Mallet. It does have a learning curve. I tried on different weights of leather and found it worked best for me on heavier leather. Saddle weight leather. Since my work is around 3/4/5 ounce I found it a little too robust. Maybe with more time and experience I could have mastered the lighter weight leather. There was a one-armed man who was looking at the mallet and I think those with physical impairments or muscle limits might benefit from the unit. You wanted thoughts--you have mine. Bob Stelmack

I did find that the vinyl, from the fabric stores, can lift text from some items especially printed papers made with a laser printer that uses toner. Other forms of polyvinyl are clearer and don't lift the text. Bob Stelmack

I prefer the Chevy 441 to the Ford 441. ;-)

Test the bearing by using a few drops of oil on the space between the pulley and the mounting shaft. If the noise stops ten the bearing is going dry. Bob Stelmack

Good questions. I have bound many books in leather and in book cloth. Some were paperback books. I use several techniques that I learn from several books. Here are two simple ones: http://store.doverpublications.com/0486201694.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiA99qnBRDnrYCkt4ClzZABEiQAvqPaLCYn0TvjV2HKsw0Bwv4s3wJpAE8HsTazi8YJF4yC3VsaAlWX8P8HAQ http://store.doverpublications.com/048626307x.html To answer your questions would require would be easier if you just get the books and follow the examples. Experiment on a junk book to start with.

I cut thousands of corners every year and use this: http://www.amazon.com/Lassco-Radius-Corner-Rounder-Desktop/dp/B006OEG3JS It is expensive, but cuts leather consistently the same.... Bob Stelmack

Perhaps this can help: http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/piece_form.php Bob Stelmack

Would this help? http://www.walrusshoe.com/lasts_home.htm http://bootlast.com/ Bob Stelmack

Was the shipping insured?

Since you have contemplated raising your own cattle, on your own land and tanning your own leather and making products from the venture, I guess you already have your own answer. You can set up a machine shop on your cattle ranch and make your own tools and make the sewing machine of your dreams. You can mine your own minerals and forge the special metals you would need, but those ball bearing are going to be tough. JUST KIDDING Dave! Your questions are entertaining and I thought I could make an entertaining (maybe) answer. Keep up the interesting questions. Bob Stelmack

Perhaps these places could help: http://www.manta.com/world/North+America/Canada/leather_tanning_and_finishing--E806F/ Bob Stelmack

Well, I have them for sale. Here are the details (shipping only to USA): I have volumes 1, 2 and 3 in hard-copy. They were $97 each. You should be able to purchase those three volumes for $97 each in electronic (PDF) form from www.theleatherconnection.com , but as many have discovered there has been no response from that site at this time. I will sell my unmarked, hardcopy, excellent condition all three volumes in a 4-ring A4 binder for $97 plus $11.30 for flat rate shipping to the USA. You can pay in various ways: (a) If you have a PayPal account, you can send the payment to the PayPal account ( leathercover1990@gmail.com ) ( Send a Personal Check or Money Order, drawn on US bank funds, to: Desert Leathercraft LLC 2532 Banyon St. Richland, WA 99352-4117 Returned checks subject to a $25 service charge. ...or... Call and use VISA or Master Charge via the PayPal system (requires name, card number, expiration date, billing address, CCV code and email address for receipt) Note: Information will taken over the phone 509-392-2589, do not send in any email message.) In any case, be sure to provide a shipping address. Hope this helps. Here are the contents of the three volumes: No. 1 Basics, Straps, Belts, Handles. Hand & Machine Sewing, Paring, Cutting, Costing, etc. It contains information & tips never given before. The use of tools & the fundamental methods used over time to produce a neat & craftsman like finish are often overlooked these days. They are certainly not adopted by most or the producers of, Belts, Dog Equipment & other Strap makers. The only places you can find well made items of this nature are goods produced by a Rural Saddler. The General Leather Worker/Craftsman is now all but extinct as they were the only Leather Workers capable of Hand Stitching. Indeed we took this to a higher degree than the requirements necessary to make horse tack as we included other methods of hand stitching like Corner Stitching. No. 2 Light Leathergoods Part 1. Wallets, Notecases, Purses, dealing with every aspect & type of construction. Plus further information on Cutting & Costing. Every example is taken through from it's cutting, assembly procedure, sizes of all patterns are provided, the making of assembly jigs are included & finally all examples used have their own individual material costing to show how this is achieved. A range of items has been selected to cover every aspect of construction from, Cut Edge or Raw Edge as it is sometimes termed, to Turned Edge. No. 3 Light Leathergoods Part 2. Small Boxes, Cylindrical Objects, Gift Ware, Jewel Boxes & Cases, Writing Cases, Etc. Examples of Built Up Work, Block work, Molded Work, Zipped Articles, etc. Again many areas & subjects never fully covered before. The subject of making the wooded carcase for the jewel boxes is also fully dealt with. Again the range of objects selected covers all the skill relating to this area of leathergoods & will enable the participant to learn all the skills needed to make a full range of goods to their own design. This manual is however more advanced than the previous two & making sequences are now excluded as everyone should by now be capable of working out their own assembly methods. Some sample pictures: Bob Stelmack

Here is the link to the previous discussion: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53929&hl=stelmack&page=2 ...and David L was sent some pages from the three books, so you can ask him what he thought. Bob Stelmack.

Could this be of help? http://www.pslac.org/extras/extras.htm The USERNAME is guest and the PASSWORD is guest Then select the static pages of stamping tools or the dynamic database tool. If you would like a TAB delimited copy of this database, then click here to generate a current set of data. (http://pslac.org/iilg/download_craftool.txt) If you would like a ZIPPED copy of ALL the stamping tool images, then click here and download to your computer Hope this helps. Bob Stelmack