stelmackr

I've had some luck with hemostats that grip then lock. Once locked, just continue to twist the same direction. Worked one time for me. Bob Stelmack

I am learning about sewing machines, so take this with a grain of salt. When I sew on a Consew 206-RB (or a Pfaff-1245 (both are FERDCO clones), I use a #23 needle with 207 thread top and 138 bottom, but it is a LR needle. It cuts a 45-degree slot and it closes the stitch up as it sews. I have used a blunt or pointed needle on leather and it looked much like your stitch both front and back. Looks like the tension is putting the knot in the middle, but the total tension top and bottom might be too tight along with the foot tension. There I've said it. Now wait for the experts to give you the real answer. Bob Stelmack

I can't stop from reading every new post on this thread. It's like if it can go wrong--it will. I can visualize working with an industrial machine and never having any instruction, or hands-on trial. Because I did. Now I realize how important it was to get some education (this forum) or buying from a dealer at a trade show. My first machine was a JUKI-562 with damaged hook. Bought it cheap, then I found out the cost to repair the hook. The next machine was bought at the Pendelton Leather Show (FERDCO 1245, a Pfaff clone) and I bought the machine I was instructed on and I hasn't skipped a stitch in 5-years. Bob Stelmack

One of the dyes that my friend Bill Churchill used changed colors on him. He found out that the use of oxycillic (sp?) prior to the dye caused a reaction. I don't remember the dye he was using, but if some preparation was used be for the dye, try without it. Good luck, Bob Stelmack

This what I use on my leather with my sewing machine: http://www.wawak.com/Leather-Tape-1-4-x-60-yds also comes in 1/2". WIZ recommended it. Bob Stelmack

Thanks Bob Stelmack

Who was your current supplier? Bob Stelmack

Some great ideas, even for those with larger spaces. Thanks for the share. Bob Stelmack

I can't tell, but if the leather is chrome tanned, then I would say that a hand held splitter might not work as well for you. My guess is that you are pulling the outside edges. Try pulling the center and see if it gouges out the outside edges. Then try with some firmer vegetable tanned leather. I might be all wet and it won't be the first time. Bob Stelmack

Looks great. Like the lacing instead of sewing--fits the style. Bob Stelmack

Please see this: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=63812&hl=swamp Bob Stelmack

When I have a raw (cut) edge I either dye it a dark color (chrome tanned) or dye and slick (veg tanned). Takes little time and in my opinion gives it a classier look. I like the tan/blue color look. Bob Stelmack

Ask Peter at http://www.petermain.com/parent.htm under the publication pull down menu and use the email address given at: petergmain@msn.com Bob Stelmack

I have one. It does sharpen, but following the directions it never gets as sharp as a new blade for me. I wound up get the blades by the hundreds for a reasonable price from eBay. $90 for a 100 blades (45mm). Bob Stelmack

OMG, you should be paid by each of the sewing machine sellers to produce a timing video for each machine. I think that payment should be a gift of each machine that the seller's have.... The video is so clear I could do the timing on that machine if I had one. I have a Pfaff-1245, Consew-206-RB5 and a Juki-441 (all are FERDCO). Let me know when you make a video for any adjustments on these. Bob Stelmack (BTW-the drop down guide for my Pfaff-1245 is a dream to work with, thank again.)

That leather does not appear to be a single color of dye. The tannery must have treated it with several dye stuffs to obtain the worn/distressed finish. Take a look at several of the upholstery leather suppliers and see what they have to offer as a finished product for your use. I wouldn't know how to evenly dye a full hide to get those colors from bright to dark so evenly dispersed. Good luck. Bob Stelmack

I use the Skil Muti-cutter to cut up to 5/6 ounce leather. Mainly use to cut hides into side for my projects. Bob Stelmack

Maybe http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/TransTint---Red-Mahogany-2-oz.html ? ...or... http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Color-Concepts-Finishers-Color-Wheel.html Just some other places to find dyes that might work on leather. I don't have your color in front of me so I gave it a blind shot... http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/mhk_cds/color_chart/Color%20Chart.pdf Bob Stelmack

Just like mine. ;-) Bob Stelmack

This, in my opinion, is the best comment regarding Tandy and really describes its target audience. I started with Tandy products and use many of them to this day. I also have specialized and custom tools. I always chuckle with "I think I need the best whatever tool" and remember visiting the Al Stohlman section of the leather museum in Sheridan, WY and seeing the tools that Al started with: a pocket knife, a bent piece of metal, some other odds and ends and a dye of India ink. These primitive tools produced works of art that simply magnificent. Bob Stelmack

Pecard is what I use over Resolene. I let it dry overnight then lightly buff. Leaves a nice tactile feel. Bob Stelmack

See you at the Oregon Pendleton Leather Show put on by Sheridan Leather Outfitters....with working shoulders ;-)

Super glue? Epoxy?

See if this is of any help: Business Considerations

Thanks Art... Bob Stelmack