JazzBass

Check Brownell's, a supplier of gunsmithing tools. They should have a 50lpi flat file for layout, and curved triangular files for pointing up the diamonds.

A friend recently asked what to look for, when buying a used wheelgun. I decided to write it all out, and share it with anyone who might benefit from the info. It's one small way to "give back" to those who've taught me so much in the forums. Revolver Inspection.pdf

Great job! I especially like the wood grain of the cross, and, as mentioned, your choice of the red thread is wonderful. I can see where YOU would have a problem with the basket weave - the border being more noticeable than any slight unevenness in the pattern, BUT - it is only because it's being analyzed on the millimeter level, as we all do, in order to improve our work. Everyone else will see the item as a whole, and it most certainly looks beautiful. Heck, I wish my basketweave looked that good. Yes, be proud of this one - you absolutely earned it, sir. Period.

Magnificent!

Ok - You Suck. (just wanted to make you feel welcome) ...but they're still nice sheaths. ROFL!

I don't think anyone is surprised by the stories and frustrations, but it does help to "commiserate" occasionally. Similar stories are almost universally told by artists of every genre. Every day, we have unavoidable occasions to question whether we love the art, more than we hate the business. Ok, ok, let's just admit it- (in jest, of course) We all suffer from a mental illness, clearly resulting in self destructive behavior. After all, who in their right mind would keep going when everything empirical seems to fall on the wrong side of the scale? We might as well just "own it".

Now that's what I call, "Character"! Marvelous job - a LOT of work, and well worth it.

I've only been "serious" about leather crafting for a bit over a year now, and started (quite understandably) with Tandy threads, (and tools) as they were readily available. I ran into every problem, about which you ask a question...but have gained at least a few meager insights as a result. There is indeed a subjective relationship, aesthetically, to stitch length, thread size, and hole size. In the extremes, some things are perfectly serviceable, but don't "look good", where some things may "look good", and fail when subjected to easily anticipated stresses or loads. (ok...back to us amateurs) My problem with Tandy thread was the lack of a standard, easily understandable measurement in their labeling. Often, what was chosen by looking at the spool, turned out to be too thick or too thin, for what I wanted to do. Enter, "Tiger Thread" (Ritza 25, Julius Koch, Germany). After seeing many folks who are serious pros talk about how good it is, I ordered some in a few sizes. Eureka. Being measured in millimeters, it provided the best standard upon which the "aesthetic" could be adjusted reliably. The next thing I did, after having been hit over the head many times, was to switch from what some call "big eye" Tandy needles, to John James 002 and 004. With the Tandy needles, I'd sometimes need either pliers on every stitch, or have to make holes big enough to show daylight through them after being stitched. Again, something as simple as better needles made it easier to adjust the thread and hole sizes to achieve the desired result. Next, after having watch many of (master) Nigel Armitage's videos, another thing jumped out - his awl is razor sharp at the tip, but is "softened" as it reaches full thickness. Brilliant! This means that we can create a small "cut" hole, that is simply "stretched" temporarily, to make sewing more convenient. Wow. I won't bother to recommend thread /hole sizes vs. stitch length - the above is just what this "newbie" has found that might help you to make those choices yourself

Congrats to both you and your friend. For something as "simple" as a luggage tag, this took a lot of thought and work, and was clearly a labor of love. It's the kind of thing that you obviously enjoyed making, that he will cherish because of it. Kudos

This (to me) appears to be "machine burnished". I don't mean that it wasn't done by someone with serious skill - just that I do not think this was done with a manual slicker, regardless of shape. Someone with the right touch, used an electric burnisher, at multiple angles, to accomplish this. Opinions?

Of course - that's the point...once we get "hooked", we can't help but try to make it better and better. @rleather had some good suggestions - one more might be to skive the edges so they are not quite so thick when sewed together. As he said, "You should be proud of this wallet. BRAVO! ". I am quite often humbled by the fact that on these forums, criticism is not just "constructive"...it is invariably accompanied with GENUINE enthusiasm for what has been accomplished, at any level, whether pros, or amateurs like us.

Nice job. The first one is always the hardest I really like the design/contours of the internal pockets.

Yes, it's oval instead of a radius/taper in the middle, but what else could it be for? I guess that scale is everything - Assuming it's about 2"-3" across, it could be used to make a linked belt like the one pictured. If the punch were 4"-5" long, a whole bunch of other uneducated, complete speculations as to purpose, might result. In any case, ideas for using small pieces for larger projects, was exactly the point of my original post. Gotta love it!

@YinTx Wow. I'd have to say, yes! Hahaha. I SURE didn't expect to see a die like this!!!!

Yes...and I've done so, using one of the scraps for several keepers, leaving the other scraps "long". Sure. They'd be plain, but would last forever. Watch straps - I'd need a good splitter for that. My skills with a skiver/knife could never reduce this stuff to a usable thickness and have it smooth and even. Hmm...good excuse to assimilate new skills and practice! Thanks Whoa!! I had considered "artistic splicing" of pieces, since it needn't pull a truck, it just has to hold up your pants. LOL! BUT-- Your pic made me scratch my head for a minute or two, as to how these pieces were joined in a chain - it was only the "tounge" that's hanging down in the pic that gave it away - "chain link" shaped pieces folded with one hole over the other, then feed the next through the (now single) hole. Brilliant!

Ah...hadn't thought of billets. If they were unfinished veg, bracelets would have been my first choice since it could be stamped/tooled. I'm not set up for hot stamping for names etc. Do folks actually want plain black bracelets? (I know nothing about the "kinky" side of leather. LOL!) Sling ends/Strap retainers...good suggestions. Thanks.

Great first project- simple, functional, and robust. Although I agree with the snap suggestions above, as long as it sits flush and doesn't catch on the edge of the blade while inserting, I wouldn't worry about it. I think that it's rather unlikely that a brass snap will scratch hardened steel No, you don't "need" to remake it...but I suspect that you're hooked, so you'll probably do it anyway.

After having made quite a few dress/casual belts, I find that I have a bunch of 1" and 1.25" straps of English Bridle from both W&C and H.O. Having started out at 60-70 inches, the "scrap" is too short (20-25" or so) for anything but a kid's belt. (not sure I'd buy an $80 belt for a kid who will grow out of it in no time) Any suggestions? This stuff is just too nice to just relegate it to "scrap". Suggestions don't necessarily have to be a finished product, per se - I'd be happy to use them for some sort of useful practice, if nothing else.

Haha! "charm and character" is what happens to a great item from years of honest use. . I always laughed at the fact that folks would often pay more, to have someone flail a new piece of furniture with a chain to make it "look" old. Go figure!

That's why you're a pro and I'm still having "forehead slap" moments. ROFL! ...but I'll take it as a compliment for the paper/symmetry concept (at least I got something right!)

I take a couple of extra minutes to make "2-step templates" for something like this. First, is to do it with paper cut to the full width. Fold it in half. Draw the radius, then cut it while folded. Both sides will be perfectly symmetrical. This is a BIG help. Then, trace that onto some poster board and cut it out. You now have a template that will last multiple uses.

Well, at least the OP didn't drop the 1 post and walk away, as was expected. Yes, translations can be a problem, but nonetheless it seems that the universal opinion here is that: 1) there is no such thing as "vegan leather" and 2). Synthetics are not necessarily "environmentally friendly". ...unfollowing this one now. I come here to learn about a wonderful art/craft that goes back thousands of years, not to listen to fabricated "hot button" political issues. Back to work-...

@NVLeatherWorx Yes...saw that you're in Fernly! I've been wanting to get up there to see Bob Mernickle (who made a nice double gun rig for me, several years ago), meet Cal Eilrich, and do some fast draw - haven't done it in years. If I came in last, i'd still have a great time! Anytime you're in Vegas, I'd love to meet you. If I lived in Reno, I'd probably ask for an apprenticeship of some sort, or just bug you into being a fly on the wall. LOL. @battlemunky "Don't be afraid to fail..." That's possibly the BEST advice of all. It took something like 2000 "failures" for Edison to make a practical electric light. When he was asked about this, he said something to the effect that he never failed - it simply turned out to be a 2000 step process. (wish I had the exact quote).

Amen...and great story . Read every word

Ditto to @NVLeatherWorx and @bikermutt07. I'd just add that you need to love the craft, for itself, FIRST. You must jump in, try it, deal with the failures and frustrations associated with starting out, and still have a passion for the work. If you truly enjoy the craft itself, it is certainly possible to make money in the future. If you're considering this in order TO make money, it's unlikely that you'll either develop the skills, OR make a decent amount of money. It takes MANY hours to get "good". Sure, many here started out hoping to be able to make money in the future, but I'd bet that no one here got into leather crafting FOR the money initially. I think that most started out as a hobbyist, then started selling some things to friends and acquaintances to help pay for that hobby, THEN, made the serious decision as to whether or not they wish to make it a business. @bikermutt07 was 100% correct about being ready to commit to leather crafting, itself. So jump in and try it! If you do find that you love it, you CAN succeed.