JazzBass

Regarding Resolene - I find that it has a noticeable solvent effect on dye and or antiquing. The pro dye you'll be using is a lot more stable in this regard than the Eco-flow (water based) dyes. In any case, be sure to thoroughly brush the dyed surface after it's dry, before applying Resolene or any other top coat. You must remove any pigment that did not penetrate the leather, or it will be "floated" and can cause smearing. (been there, done that).

If there are any flaws, I sure can't spot them! Beautiful work!

Yes, that rolled edge on the brim looks especially good. Nice!

Well, sometimes slick, quick and practical just works. Your sheath, however, should have a mounting hole near the top (handle side)...it's such a work of art that it's not something to throw in the tool bag or a drawer, as with mine - yours deserves a prominent place on the wall! :)

I used an abrasive stone in my Dremel/drill press to countersink the back side of the Sam Browne button. There is no contact. The sheath is asymetrical...on the left side, the welt has an "extension" that holds that tip... the knife does not go straight into the sheath, you holster it by putting the left corner in, then rotating the right side up and in. It seemed about the simplest way to do it and keep it secure.

Ok, I'll suffer the embarassment... a pic was in this post:

Geez...now I'm almost embarassed that I did such a "utilitarian" job on the sheath for my head knife. Nice design, and beautiful execution.

The best thing I learned about dye, is that it is not paint. It is meant to penetrate, not to cover. After allowing dye to dry, the surface should be brushed, to remove any pigment that has not penetrated the material, otherwise it will run or rub off at the first opportunity. After brushing, then it can be sealed with waxes, or acrylics etc.

Were these wet molded? If so, how do you keep the tooling so crisp and sharp when molding? They look wonderful!

The best things I've learned here, relative to dye sealing/rub-off, was to first switch to the Fiebings PRO dye instead of the water based dye I was using. Second, was to brush the dyed area vigorously once it is completely dry, to remove any pigment that did not penetrate the leather. This is what mostly "rubs off", and trying to seal it in does not work over the long term. Brush it off, THEN seal it. Once this is done, the choice of sealant is much less critical. I've used waxes and acrylics, both with good results, after following the advice that I learned here. Dye is not paint. Paint has it's pigment in a substrate that's meant to stick to something and cover it. Dye has the pigment in a carrier that allows it to penetrate the material. Any that does not penetrate, must be removed prior to sealing. Understanding that tip has saved me countless headaches.

Although there are many reputable suppliers who will ship anywhere, I found it extremely helpful to be able to go to where you can actually see and feel the different leathers. Ordering "in the blind" CAN be done with confidence, but only after you are sure of exactly what you want or need. I'm fortunate to have a Tandy nearby. I'll order from others much of the time, but it was only because of Tandy, that I learned what to look for. You have to get a feel for the different types available, as they are vastly different, even in the same weight/thickness. The project itself most often dictates what can or should be used. Find someplace that's reasonably "local", and spend some time examining and inquiring. Yes, mail order ultimately gives the most options, but I wouldn't start there. Good Luck

I started on bass violin in 4th grade, age 9, and studied classically up through college. Got my first electric bass in 6th grade (11-12yo). Holy $#!^...I've been doin' it for almost 48 years! Geez... Hey-- Can't wait to see your next "Concerto in Leather".

WTG on the response, Ray. I LOVE this forum!

Ben would be proud of you too - You made "profitable use" of all of your "rattling traps", and were able to "comply with (your) dame's desire" Yep...that's a BIG win for all mankind. "Ne'er take a wife till thou hast a house (& a fire) to put her in" - Poor Richard, 1733 (man...I love to read Framklin- he's my all-time hero)

Ah...I see.

I can't decide which rig I like better!

Ben Franklin, 1738

@bikermutt07 You (and others) should read the introduction to the very first "Poor Richard's Almanac" by Benjamin Franklin, 1738. He humorously indicates a similar problem with his wife. I guess that nothing is new... I should copy/paste it here.

We might all crash the server as every member unburdens themselves with such an admission. Tim Allen got it right...we love our tools!!

@bikermutt07 and @hwinbermuda: We're all "friends of Bill W" when it comes to tools. Maybe there's a "Friends of Tim Allen 12 Step Program" somewhere...

Gorgeous! The results speak for themselves.

Never thought of that one...AND it's cheap. One could cover an entire benchtop for the cost of a decent small cutting board. The other surface I use, is a type-specific, 2'x3' cutting mat. 5 ply pvc, self sealing. Good product, but I'll remember MDF for my next bench! https://www.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RTW/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=US+Art+Supply+24"+x+36"+GREEN%2FBLACK+Professional+Self+Healing+5-Ply+Double+Sided+Durable+Non-Slip+PVC+Cutting+Mat&qid=1553202875&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-1-fkmrnull

Haha! Folks from the Depression era were EXTREMELY good at saving, improvising, and repurposing just about everything!

WOW...that's EXACTLY what my grandfather used to do too!