JazzBass

With all due respect to @nrk and @LatigoAmigo , re-read the WHOLE paragraph from my first post. Translation - I can't reasonably charge more than the market will bear for similar quality, just because it currently takes me more time than others to achieve that level of quality. It is market price, not hourly rate, that is generally the controlling factor in pricing.

"Vintage"? The stamps you listed are still available from Tandy. Am I missing something?

Welcome, Matt. You've come to the right place. This forum is loaded with nice folks, with some serious skills. Best of luck!

@JLSleather Haha - know what you mean about "common" graphics and High School football logos. LOL! Interestingly though, "artistic logos" are a luxury that are practical today, only because of (relatively recent) internet searches, where anyone who saw "JLS" on a piece, could actually find you and have it result in more work. The "tried and true" (name and city, and or phone number) that may be boring, seems IMHO to have previously been the only smart way to go...but I DO like your thinking, sir

Indeed. I'd have to charge over $300 for a guitar strap that I made for myself...fully carved, lined, and hand stitched. It would be a rather small market for those who would pay that. "Production" is about efficiency while maintaining quality. "Artistry" will always be a "labor of love". Funny thing - like in the music business, "production" pays, "artistry" does not. Often, the better the music and the harder I work, the less it pays. <groan>.

I have noticed that a lot of folks use a maker's mark that is a flat stamp, instead of a long tool that is struck with a hammer. It's obviously much cheaper to make, but- Questions... 1. Does pressing a stamp give better (more consistent) results than a full length tool-stamp? 2. Without an arbor press, is it sufficient to simply crank down on a C-clamp with a wood block over the stamp, and a hard surface below? Seems that would work(?).

Good info, to be sure. My difficulty is more related to time spent vs. ultimate price. In order to do really quality work at my experience level, I have to go SLOWLY. So... I have to look at what is being charged for items of similar quality, and set a reasonable price based upon that alone. This means that I'm most often working for around minimum wage (about $10/hr). I simply can't charge more than a hundred bucks for a belt that generally retails for around $80. Not being a full time professional, I accept this, knowing that as skills improve, I will make more. Right off the bat, I can also see that a powered edge burnisher could easily save me an hour or so as well, which more than justifies the expense, and will be my next purchase. It's a long road to profitability, but I see no other workable way than to price items based on what the market will support for similar quality. I'll bet that I'm far from the only one who has to accept working "on the cheap" (based on hours), knowing that to make money, my efficiency must improve while maintaining/increasing quality.

Magnificent work, young man!! I can't even imagine what you'll be able to do by the time you reach the "old fart" status of many of us

ROFL!! It would have to include a cartoon "bubble quote", filled with a bunch of random characters representing a fusillade of profanities.

Love it!

Welcome! My first project, a little over a year ago, was a belt, made from a pre-cut blank that had the buckle slot cut, and snaps already installed. Belts are great because they can be as plain as you want, or as fancy as you dare. In any case, you'll deal with cutting the tip and punching holes, Beveling and slicking edges, and finishing. It's all great practice for other projects. You'll also have something that you can wear every day - it's a great motivator for future projects. I find wallets to take a bit more "finesse" to get them to look good, and the construction/sewing can be a bit complicated, BUT- there's no reason not to make that kit. Sometimes the best project is the one in front of you. Lastly, try not to be overly critical of your work. When making something, we are always examining the fine detail of every millimeter, but the final product is always seen as a whole. ...and don't be afraid to post pics of your very first item - you're among friends, and all suggestions will be positive and encouraging.

Just one question - are you married?? LOL Beautiful work. All the time you spent on that rig, shows! It takes some serious skills to even consider such a project. 2nd attempt? Wow.

I love this kind of thinking! Here's another possibility: Space at a premium? Set up that door/table like a horizontal, "Murphy Bed". Store it against the wall with hinges that allow it to be lowered to the horizontal when needed. Hmm...

I certainly agree about the first part of your statement, but must take some small issue with the second. If it were "all about the money", we would do something else - I've said this about the music business countless times, and live it day by day...but you are still, unfortunately, correct. When you make something a "business", then it is the bottom line on the balance sheet that determines whether it is a success or a failure. It's clearly the reason that currently, I hope to simply "pay for my education" regarding the craft, which would hopefully give the option (along with the proper perspective), to decide whether or not try to make it a business.

Thanks for the detail. Wanna bet that we're all trying to find a place/space in which to use this?

Beautiful!!

Simple, accurate, efficient...wonderful!!

From that link that @Mark842 posted - "Tesla’s mission statement is “to accelerate the world’s transition to sustainable energy.” While many are attracted to Teslas simply because of their incredible performance or for other reasons, it’s obvious that the point of an electric car company is to offer consumers a more environmentally-friendly choice. " Really? I don't see any Thorium reactors being used to make electricity. These cars are almost exclusively powered by fossil fuels - not to even mention the machinery and energy to dig, extract, and refine the materials that make up the car itself. ...and fake leather is "sustainable"? The whole thing is complete idiocy.

Ah... After you wipe off the excess antiquing, it is going to look somewhat "hazy", but it cleans up very well when TanKote is used, as it has a solvent effect. Check out Don Gonzales's video about antiquing- he explains this very thing at around 4 minutes.

What's most important IMO, is that you DID it. I remember that on my first project, that it took a lot of time in planning, for me to get up the nerve to actually take a knife to leather. Many of the elements can also be practiced separately - I spent quite some time just experimenting with different methods for saddle stitching, and this can be done with scrap. Scribe a line, mark or punch you holes, and see how consistent you can make it. Other steps can be practiced independently of specific projects, at very little cost. Another example would be what I've done with belts - Rarely would you need the whole length of the strap that you buy, so I would often take small pieces of what would be excess, and try different finishes on them, since I've found that every piece of leather will finish out differently, even with the same stains/sealers. Working with the exact material from the current project, can help avoid a lot of, "what the heck happend?" moments. Welcome, and good luck

My method for lining up the punch takes some extra time, but it works - I punch a single hole through a piece of cardboard, not worrying about "straight". Then I draw a line through the center of the punched hole, and use that centerline to mark and cut the template to the width of the belt. I can now place the hole in the template over the mark on the belt, knowing that it is straight and centered - BUT - Since driving the punch all the way through the leather with the template on it would open the template hole too much to be usable more than once, I hit it just hard enough to pierce the surface of the leather, marking it enough to feel the punch seat in it, then I remove the template and punch all the way through. Takes a few extra minutes, but it works. I'm wondering what other methods folks use here - there's probably a better or more efficient way, but at least they come out right, which is what counts.

Nice job- He'll love it!

I had considered Chicago screws to make the buckle changeable, but wanted to try rivets. Agree about the oval holes - darned tough to line up, but they don't deform as much on a thick belt. Thanks for the comments.

Of course! What I really like though, is how any and all criticism of ANY work on the site, is ALWAYS constructive (and gratefully instructive). I can't say enough about the folks here, from beginners like me, up to the master craftsmen and women.

Thanks, guys - it was fun to do. Looking forward to more!