SilverForgeStudio

Ill second Latigo... Chromates burned are a baddie to the ol' breathing aparatus.... and most PVC, Polypropylene and plastics are not good either. it not just a matter of opening a window with a fan- you need to seriously consider a vent tube and fan setup that flows MORE air than you think... Tubed to a window (think dryer duct)...

Thank you both- I will be doing this on an older singer domestic. I have both tapestry and conical point (thanks mom for giving me all the sewing room stuff)... so Im going to see how this affair goes- may be a fail- maybe not. I hope to post pics

I have been given a roll of seat belt material... and I want to use it for some keepers (Tool holders) or straps for a few projects. In order to do this I need to sew it to itself on the ends- what needle do I use? I do not have experience with this. I realize a "Bar tacking" machine would do it- dont have one of those... These will not see heavy loads or tactical use- I was going to "Buttonhole" stitch 3 times across the overlap area with a couple of vertical button hole stitches in the middle ( Think -|-|- for a visual) Im thinking as this material is woven nylon I would not want to use a sharp needle as it would cut more fibers- So use a blunt needle and power through it?

If the boy will be racing in it with a sanctioning agency- please get the safety specs if there are any for the gear. (flame retardant, impact or pad minimums, nomex lining or what...) Some agencies are pretty strict and I wouldn't want him to get disqualified or you get a lawsuit. In another hobby- I made a pair of aluminum clamps for a fellows' dirt bike and because they weren't certified by the association or commercial safety engineers it disqualified the kid from his race. Even though they were milled from spec aluminum and heat treated to guidelines. I didnt have the impact testing materials analysis (very costly to get and you have to send in LOTS of paperwork). If its for non race wear- man have at it and post pics!

Leather is organic- it needs to breathe (so to speak). It can (and will) absorb odors from the environment it is stored in. I use the box it was shipped in to keep larger hides rolled up in. The important thing is to not scratch the working face of the leather by laying a hide or piece of leather on or under something else that may scar it. Your issue with the smell is the material acclimating and off-gassing a bit. As long as the material is exposed to changing moisture in the environment and airflow you will have this issue. Ironically enough- it needs the moisture and airflow to retain its properties. The only hides I plastic wrap are the oilskin style as I have several long greasy streaks on the gypsum board where I tried laying a roll in the shelf. Even these are wrapped in a towel first to wick excess oil. Sounds odd- but the wife hangs Rosemary and other herbs for scent in the staging area for my little shipping desk. OK- its actually the folding table our laundry room... but when I get done folding my shirts... its the shipping table! (Do not lay the herbs on the leather- the oils may stain it... but my mason jar sleeves have a nice aroma of rosemary and basil when I ship them out per some of my customers!) I also use lavender and some mint in a few purses I have made to make the item more appealing when opened- my thank you card is attached to the bundle. Maybe a sachet of herbs under the bed as well? Just an idea. If there is any area a roll can be stored it may serve you better- others will have better ideas- I first stored my leather in rolls behind the couch- but have upgraded to a shelf in the craft area (Read as my wife got tired of me asking for shelf space and felt pity on me! HA!). Hope this helps- be safe and let us know how you make out! Kerri

Titos is very smooth- Dont get it often- but it is good! If I had a Mokka X it WOULD definitely be an oddity worthy of the Twilight Zone... but sadly- I drive a crumped up old small Mazda B3000... The Mok I refer to is a person- Here is his blog: http://asailorsleather.blogspot.com/ His name is Opel Mok- I was a part of a Yahoo Group called FLASAH (almost defunct now) and he posted a lot there. Good fellow and crafty to boot! He was an Al Stohlman student and I appreciate his use of ray/snake skins. If you're ever in Virginia Beach or Norfolk, VA Ill buy the first round of mojitos or Bloody Marys! Coffee is always on in the shop and if the trucks home- I am too!

HA! Edited out nothing... added my JD Coke Lemon!

To "burnish" the flesh side use a good thick piece of plate glass- I was able to get a scrap from a local commercial window company- its 3/8 thick and has the clear rounded edge (You do not want to get the "Frosted" edge pieces). there are several tutorials about it- search glass burnisher on LW (this website) and youtube. For Adjustable straps that are "traditional"- look into Conway buckles- Harry Rodgers on Youtube has a good breakdown on them. I use these on my aprons with adjustable necklines and shoulder straps Im not very good at it- to be honest- but then again I just line a lot of my things- hope this helps and nice bag!

@hwinbermuda Why not take this opportunity to enjoy a bit of a manicure with cover polish? Your cuticles will thank you and although I dont "do" manicures- I will tell you from having a daughter its loads of relaxation if done properly (Drink in hand- mate!) The date night for the wife is usually a foot scrub or mani/pedicure night- with dinner and a night out after. Just a thought- spoil yourself a bit- great excuse to drink some wine and relax! (Although I prefer a Burbon on the rocks or a Jack+coke-Lemon)

@Chief Filipino ... He should weigh in on this one too- he tans his own rattlers as well- last I heard he was contemplating a Hawaii trip... As for the taste- I'll agree with chuck123wapiti above- tastes great.

Bravo Roland! From the middle side of the age spectrum- at 47 with 10 plus years of marriage under our belts my wife and I still don't have a TV either! My daughter loves tinkering and playing while her cousins all hunker down on the couch with their iPads and Devices. Its kind of a sad narrative really. Get the degree and never stop crafting! The down time at my job allows me to do a few things- as a career paramedic (like the other fire guys here) radio straps and harness items are a big seller... and crafted items for the wives and nurses... almost a fulltime-pastime! HA! I will let you in on a little secret that you probably already know... If you examine successful folks most of their "Hobbies" are either budget neutral (They take in as much as they cost) or they contribute to your growth financially either by direct income (selling to others) or by saving your money (you can make it for less than retail). I have no hobbies that cost me outside of setup/start expenses. They all have to be self funding and driving. Keeps the family budget on track too! (And honestly- it ROCKS to be able to use side income to take the family somewhere!) Others have different paths- this is only my path- and it works for my family. All the usual caveats apply: Your mileage may vary, some assembly required, batteries not included, only for ages 3 and up, yadda yadda yadda, call your mother... (you get the idea- this is just ONE way to think about it). For example- The Warden... My wife completely freaked when I spent a LOT on a metal detector- until she found out I had used the crappy one I had for 3 years to find enough bits and bobs and rings and coins to pay for it... and that detector has paid for itself again in about a year (as of this writing). Same with the leather- she was wary of a "whole hide" purchase- until I made workbelts for guys and a few things she wanted as well plus a knife sheath or two I needed. The belts paid for the hide- and she was happy to let me keep exploring this craft. Yes- she has me trained very well. (FULL DISCLOSURE GUYS/GALS and FOLKS- I married an accountant... so I absolutely HAVE to answer for every penny!) My path into leather was like a few others- I "couldn't afford" or did not want to "pay for something at retail" I could make for less and my metalworking was starting to need leather accent pieces and sheaths. Kydex is great for some things- but not things that need a tactile or "warm" feel to aesthetic value. Love the thread-

I know this is going to be a part of my project list- Simple is elegant!

Paloma- Bravo! I am sure its a pleasure to use and supple as well! What thickness are you using and is that goatskin?

PM sent

Thanks Fred and Mike- Ive gotten a small tin of "Brass Lac" from the overpriced art store/hobby shop near me- Ill give it a swing and see what happens!

Thanks Mike and Fred! I dont think I will be using anything that volatile Mike! Sounds harsh- glad you are still among the living for it... sage advice. Fred I think Im on the right track with the lacquer route so thanks for confirming it- I appreciate the input folks- pics when the project is done!

I have searched the archive and potentially am not hitting on the right combination of word or the right wording/phrase- so if this has been covered please let me know and what the proper keywords are and Ill go digging. Trying to find out if I use brass or copper rod for rivets how to protect the leather from growing a verdigris/tarnish ring from forming. Figured I would be able to paint the head and shank of the rivet with a bit of clear lacquer or nail polish- or even a disc of light plastic under the head like a washer to isolate the contact? I have a few ideas I am trying and know I do not need to re-invent the wheel- but I have several pieces I tossed in a box and they all have whitish and green halos around them. And yes it is partly from non use/oiling/polishing or handling... So Im hoping to avoid it on future projects or at least mitigate it in the meantime!

@kayw If you are trying to knurl for a grip you may try a simple file and crosshatching- stainless by itself depending on grade and hardness may chew up the knurling tool- Most I have made in the shop are 1080 or 1095 and case hardened then tempered back to RC 58- these wouldnt last long on any serious turns or knurling on 440 or 308 with any hardness in them. If you have a lathe a "Scissor" style knurling tool is reccomended versus the standard 2 wheel push- less stress on the toolpost/crosslide and less chance of damaging the punch shaft/bending it An option for the files is to get a "gunsmith checkering file" and DIY it- but these little guys are expensive as well. You can get a barette file, triangle and a chainsaw file and create quite a pattern set from these with a bit of time. Easy mans' lathe for marking round shank tooling: chuck it in your drill and sharpie mark out the area for the "grip" (just hit the trigger and draw/blacken the area) lock the trigger on and push the file edge across the sharpie mark- poof! your first score line mark out your pattern and keep the files moving (dont let them sit and load up in one spot) Use triangle and circular to make round/angular grooves in pattern of choice- repeat that pattern on ALL your tools (your pattern will identify YOUR tools should one "walk" away at a show or jump in a students pocket) wipe off the sharpie- be sure of your grip and enjoy! (some folks put different enamel paints in a the grooves to identify specific sets or groupings) dont forget to file a flat on the "Bottom" side of patterns so you know its orientation by glancing at it- before you hit it! Hope this may give you an idea- if you are crafty enough to make those stamps- this is a simple project to boot! Be safe and as always- at peace KayW! Let us know what you decide to do and how it works out!

@johnv474 Thanks for the suggestions! apologies for getting back to you so late! I definitely have more Kitty Litter than I can shake a stick at for now so that is a possibility!

I do understand- and almost ordered from the same supplier. For what I paid for mine- I can afford to fix it- and believe most folks can fix it too- if they apply some basic skills... Caveat emptor and its not a precision machine. Now you're just being cheeky.

Just took a look at my machine compared to the OP- you can skip 4-7 if your mounting bolt-hole from the drive arm (upper) is parallel with the needle drive pin (Lower) and just drill 2 holes and mount this bar. My drive arm is of a different style than the OP with bolt and pin at 90 degrees from each other. (Thus the twist in my directions)

Go read the other Chinese Patcher threads- they are loaded with hints for these little grunts. My biggest headache was the timing- Put a witness mark on the rear cam-shaft and on each cam. Do this with the handle at TDC (top-dead-center) The second timing item is easier- open the bobbin case top-plate and put a witness mark where the bobbin sits when the handle is at TDC of its rotation. If the shuttle comes out you now have a point of reference where it sits at the beginning of each stroke. There are other hints/tips/tricks... you will find more the more you research. Youtube Mainley Acres and Chinese Shoe-Patcher for some troubleshooting items as well. Hope this helps- be safe and as always- at peace.

Why are you going to demand a part from across an ocean that isnt a "mission critical" part for a cheap bush-craft style machine... Now- if it were a commercial/industrial Juki, Adler or Pfaff shipped incorrectly- and it would not work without a specific part or the operation of the machine without that part would negate a warranty... that's a different matter entirely. Hey- I get it... if I bought a Rolex- it better work out of the box... but this- is not that class of machine. Third world manufacturing processes in a first-world consumer market. @chrisash You can fab one in less than 5-10 minutes and if you wanted to get fancy about it just press fit a couple of bearings (might add a few minutes to the job). The machine is a cheap entry level gateway to sewing. These are ditch-bank and farm-craft style machines. So for the cost of the machine... value the cost of your down time to haggle and wasted time waiting. To answer your question yes- it arrived faulty due to handling in shipping and it is not a hard fix. You go haggle for a week or more to get a part- Ill fix it and get to using it. (Caveat here- my own Chinesium-pot metal Patcher which arrived with several dents and part defects- polished up pretty well and gave me a chance to learn how the machine operated so I can troubleshoot later if needed- so yes- I am speaking from experience.) This is a hobby-grade machine- its meant to be modified/adapted/fixed or tinkered with by the user. And Aussie is right the Cast Iron does have a bit of an advantage for porous base material for holding oil- but is fragile. In all honesty you would be better served to push a brass/bronze bushing in place or substituting a bearing for those surfaces. The cast iron coming from China these days is like the "Pot-metal" from Taiwan and Japan of the 70's-80's... it is whatever is left over in the ladle/furnace poured without much attention to spec's or proper cooling (grey vs white cast iron) or finishing- look at the original pic- the hole is even off center bored from the mold-boss. And on my machine- the bores were not at 90 degrees to their pins or parallel with each other-causing binding. Easy fix- a file, some graphite and I am back and running in a few minutes once the offending parts are identified. The OP was looking for advice on how to handle it- My answer is forget about it and fix it... your time is more valuable spent learning a skill and then putting the machine to work. It has taken longer to write this than the fix would have taken.

And Cast Iron is a crappy metal for this arm I agree with Mike!

MikeSC beat me to it- take a piece of 1/8 inch flat bar (scrap bin at my local recycler- or a small piece from any Big Box DIY store) All you need is a few inches/cm of MILD or COLD ROLLED steel (CRS) measure center to center for holes- mark and centerpunch (so your drill wont drift) drill one hole same size as lower pin on one end (make sure to drill 1/8 to 1/4 inch from edge for clearance of rod/arm in circular motion) drill one hole same size as upper bolt hole on other end. Mark which end is the upper got a plumbers torch or propane torch or access to one? Great- get it (see next step) Wear gloves- and take 2 pair of pliers (you already are wearing your safety glasses- right?) and HEAT MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO CHERRY RED Twist the LOWER part 90 degrees to the upper about 2/3 the way down the bar (you need clearance for the drive arm) quench in water, beer, wine, champagne- your medium of choice (if its CRS or mild steel it wont get hard) Polish up, admire your new engineering skillset Install and enjoy (You may need to tweak it some to stay on the lower bearing- get creative... Milliput?) Hope this helps