TomE

As a retired biochemist, I think of chemicals as the molecules of life. Saw a Viktor George video recommending these acrylic-polyurethane topcoats as being more durable than resolene for a waterproof finish. https://lktopcoats.com/collections/lk-top-coats I know what you mean about dye rub off and beeswax. I sometimes seal edges with hot beeswax using a heated edge iron. When I buff the edges with canvas the dye rubs off on the canvas. It does seem that the hot wax solubilizes some of the dye. I usually go over the waxed edges with Tokonole to add a bit more shine and that seems to stop the rub off.

Not my idea. In his hand sewing book Stohlman shows notched plates made of plywood for stitching rounded leather. This has worked well for me. Can use the space inside the notch as a regular stitching horse clamp.

I do have pricking irons for marking holes at 7 SPI and 9 SPI. I use overstitch wheels for other stitch lengths. Most of my work is 1-3 layers of 9-10 oz leather. I rarely sew leather more than 1/2" thick but a sharp awl works well for this. I use different sized awls for different weights of leather, depending on the thread size. As you sharpen the awls they get smaller, so you end up with a range of sizes. I like a pegging awl haft for larger awls/thicker projects, and a palm haft for most of the rest. A key to making tidy stitch lines with an awl is to have the work clamped securely/consistently throughout the project so your angle of approach with the awl stays constant. I use a Weaver stitching horse. I modified the jaws with notched aluminum plates (leather lined) that are handy for the odd shaped parts of a bridle and a halter.

I have trouble using a saddle stitch inside boots when replacing a zipper on a riding boot (I don't have a patcher machine to stitch inside the heel). When access to the backside of the stitching is limited you can use a lockstitch like a sewing machine. Some folks use a speedy stitcher. I use a jerk needle (American Straight needle #5; https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/machine-needles/) mounted in a pegging type haft (leather ring pegging haft; https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/awl-hafts/). You hook the needle with the bottom thread by feel, pull it through the hole, and complete the stitch on the topside. There are some Youtube videos on sewing with a jerk needle, and it was a discussion topic here.

Lots of opinions about this. My opinion is that if you learn to use a sewing awl you'll be faster and more versatile than when pre-punching holes. You can do a lot of good work with an inexpensive awl (I use Osborne awls and hafts) and an overstitch wheel to mark the holes. The holes always line up because you punch them after the project is assembled, and the hole size will match the thread. It is particularly good for fine sewing and for sewing irregular shapes. For example, I sew a lot of loops (keepers) and buckles on horse tack, and by angling the awl you can sew underneath the loop. With an awl you can make small adjustments on the fly for stitch length and the path of the stitch line to make things work out. Most of the time in hand sewing is spent pulling up the stitches and using the awl only takes a couple of seconds per stitch. The one time I pre-punch holes is when sewing leather on woven fabric, so that I'm not cutting the threads of the fabric/webbing with an awl. I think the reverse stitching punches are designed to complement the forward direction when sewing 2 layers back-to-back. Use the reverse punch on the backside then the slanted holes will align when you assemble the layers back to back.

Thanks for this information, @TackCollector. I really enjoy learning about how English saddles are made and repaired, and would welcome any suggestions for references. The old books (printed in the 1960s-1970s) on saddlemaking that I've collected don't cover the newer construction methods.

Wow! That's a lot of edges to finish. Looks good. You've been busy.

I bought a used Techsew SK-4 with the vacuum cabinet. It is well made, although my impression is that all these bottom feed bell skivers are about the same. Campbell-Randall sells additional feet and drive rollers (FAV brand) that fit these machines. I posted about some accessories that I find useful in tack making.

That is an impressive modification. Could make high quality latigo saddle strings with that rig and a beveler.

This shoeing apron is made from 7/8 oz apron split from Beiler's. This is a heavy apron but the client is happy with it.

I found one on Craigslist in my area following the post-COVID spending spree. It appeared to be in like new condition. It is easy to use and handy for working in tight spaces.

Check that the needle is installed correctly/completely with the scarf pointed to the right. Rethread the machine. Sounds like your top thread is binding on something.

Appearance is similar to a saddlery spot, except spots are secured with 2 prongs instead of a tack. I would sew the handle on the bag rather than relying on these decorations. Beilers Manufacturing and Supply sells brass, nickel brass, and chrome plated spots, hand held and machine setters, etc. Call them for a catalog.

Hello. I can make the strap as shown above, except that it wouldn't be tooled. I would use bridle leather and can add decorative stitching. Below is an example of a simple guitar strap in bridle leather. My business contact information and other examples of my work are on my FB page for Bridle-Wise Leatherworks if you would like to discuss price and options for color, hardware, adjustability, etc.

Can you give us more information about your machine, the particular narrow plate you're using (holster plate?), thread and needle sizes, thickness of your project, etc.? A picture of the stitch spacing (good and bad) would also help.

Bruce Johnson sells new Osborne awls that are sharp and ready for use. He will have expert advice to match the tool to your project.

That's a press-on haft, like an Osborne #144. I do most of my sewing with that type. Can put a dab of expoxy on the awl to secure it when press fit. Use a pair of soft coins in the vise to prevent damage to the awl. Some awls don't fit the chuck-type hafts and you have to fiddle with them to secure the awl. How much of the tip is sharpened depends on the thickness of the leather you're sewing and your preference. I typically keep 1/4" to 3/8" of the tip sharp and the rest of the awl is polished with rounded edges to stretch the holes without cutting them larger. As you sharpen the awl it gets smaller and you will eventually have a collection of different sizes for different thread thicknesses. Good for you that you're learning to use an awl. It is a dying art but very useful for sewing irregular shapes and fine stitching.

I have a Techsew SK-4 bell skiver with a vacuum cabinet. There is a retangular cutout in the table underneath the bell knife and a large, sloped metal chute that connects to the cabinet. The cabinet has a fan mounted on the back that pulls a vacuum. The vacuum is powerful enough to pull the skived bits out of the knife and deposit them in a rubbish bin in the cabinet. Most of the noise is the sound of air rushing through the cabinet. Quieter than the shop vacs I own. There are some pictures here. https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-sk-4-leather-skiving-machine-with-vacuum-suction-device.html

That's some fine work! Pretty too.

Thank you much! Thanks! I appreciate it, @RockyAussie. Thank you!

Yet another black halter. This client asked for a fancy-shaped, padded crown, so I learned how to cut and sew curves. Living on the edge.

I recommend JH Leather videos on Youtube. She is trained in saddlery and hand sews dog collars in a variety of styles. Also, the Stohlman book on hand sewing leather is a good reference.

Looks like nice stuff and reasonably priced, but the shipping costs...ouch! I have purchased some hardware, rein grips, small stuff from Abbey England and the shipping cost has been $80+ on these small packages. Today I ordered some 4.5-5 mm chrome tanned billet bends from Booth and Co. in New York. The bends are produced by Thomas Ware and Sons in Bristol. Know anything about that tannery? Will compare it to HO harness that is reasonably stiff and arguably better than some of the billets I see on high end saddles over here. I'll put in a plug for Hermann Oak leather. I've purchased quite a few sides of bridle, harness, and plain veg tanned leather from them directly and from several retailers. I've received one side that was a disappointment, called the vendor and they reported that HO was having a problem getting some machine maintenance done during the pandemic. They offered a return but I just kept it for odds and ends projects. Everything else from HO has been fine - consistent temper, good finish, etc. I have purchased one side of Wickett & Craig bridle, and they included a large collection of samples (lots of colors) with the order. The finish is beautiful, although not as lustrous as HO bridle - more of a matte finish even after conditioning. The temper of W&C is a bit softer. Good stuff but I am used to working with HO bridle leather.

Very pretty. I like your artwork and the craftsmanship is first rate.

This is the only supplier of chrome tanned billet leather and cut billets that I have found in North America https://boothandco.com/products/booth-saddle-strap-leather-rawhide-cow-billet. Don't know of any rawhide billet suppliers here. Guess I should try some of their billets to see how the leather compares to Hermann Oak harness leather. Which tannery(ies) in the UK make billet leather? Also, how do you finish the edges of chrome tanned or rawhide billets? Just bevel with an edger, or can you burnish the edge?