TomE

While we're at it, what about Fiebing's Saddle Oil? It contains silicon oils and ? I use it on work boots and it leaves them dark and oily. Does anyone use it on saddles or other veg tan leather? I was recently contacted by someone who wanted me to clean their dressage saddle and replace the billets. They had applied lots (?) of Saddle Oil to soften the leather and weren't happy with the results. I didn't see the saddle and told them to bring it to me after they clean it thoroughly with detergent (Murphy's Oil Soap, castile soap, or dish washing liquid) then clean it again with saddle soap and lots of clean water.

I am able to read the article after dismissing the popup window inviting me to subscribe. The only other source I know of is his articles in the Leather Crafters Journal.

I routinely oil bridle leather that is 9-12 oz. A light coat at the end of the project. It soaks right in and softens the leather a little, which is what I'm after. Don't need to apply heat. Even harness leather that is loaded with fats and oils will take up neatsfoot oil at room temp. Jason Timmermans did a systematic study of leather hardening methods. He's written articles for the Leather Crafter's Journal and published this online. https://medium.com/@jasontimmermans/a-comparative-study-of-leather-hardening-techniques-16-methods-tested-and-novel-approaches-8574e571f619

Nice! Hope it goes well. I need a good luck charm at the dentist next week.

Yes, the only adverse effect I've seen is when a trainer soaked some of our pony tack in neatsfoot compound and made it permanently spongey and sticky to the touch. Probably would have had the same outcome by soaking - over oiling - in pure neatsfoot oil. The idea of hot oiling (heating neatsfoot oil in a crock pot before applying) boggles my mind. I would think if the oil isn't absorbed at room temperature then it isn't needed.

I’ve grown fond of every machine in my shop but if I had to choose I’d keep the splitter, or maybe the power burnisher. I like to hand sew, hate to rub edges, and make lots fiddly little parts of different thicknesses.

I haven’t used compound but the Stohlmans mention (Encyclopedia of Saddle Making) they used the compound a lot without any bad effects although pure neatsfoot oil is no doubt the best.

Thank you for all this information, @Landcruzer94. I will work through it carefully as I become more familiar with the Class 26. Which Juki manual are you working from? LS-341? LS-1341? My first machine was a Class 4 that I knocked out of time shortly after I bought it. Uwe's video on timing the 441 type machines was a great help.

Robert Steinke is a master saddler living in Ireland. He authored books on bridlework, harness and saddle repairs, and harness brasses. He recently resumed leatherwork and is active on Facebook. I'd ask him for advice if you're interested in English tack and harness work. Here is another resource for courses in saddlery and harness work https://walsall-leather.org/

To narrow the possibilities, I would test with thin veg tan leather and a TRI point needle. I am interested in learning more about this symptom. I mainly sew heavier leather with #138 thread on a Class 26.

Beiler's has crystal spots and saddlery (metal) spots and setters.

Yes, backstitching/overstitching is a good way to begin and end. Can slide a knot up the end of the thread but it is difficult to cinch it down tight. I rely on cobbler's wax (pine resin + beeswax) and overstitching to hold the last stitch in place.

Beiler's Manufacturing sells them for $17.22/ lb with quantity discounts available for 10 lb or 50 lb. I counted ~100 rivets and burrs in a 1 lb box of 1" #9 copper rivets, so fewer pieces for 1-1/2" rivets. They have copper and brass rivets in a variety of sizes and lengths. Can call them to get a catalog or order by phone. 717-768-0174

Since you asked, I do a lot of strap work and use simple hand tools to lay out and punch holes - ruler, divider, drive punches. I cut most of the points (English points/ egg points) with a round knife held against the edge of the bench. These tasks are a small part of the time spent on each project - I'll spend 20-25 hrs making a bridle and 15 min punching the holes. These are made to order items. If I was in production mode then automation might be helpful. For me having the manual skills of cutting, shaping, sewing leather are the main point of my craft.

She's flashy! Hadn't seen that coloration on the muzzle and ears before.

Call Beiler’s Manufacturing. They sell a new spot setter by special order, and regularly sell used equipment from their production shop.

It is standard practice to splice straps together for driving reins. Skive the ends for about 5-6 inches of overlap. Two or three lines of stitching down the length of the splice.

Very pretty! What kind of cow is Molly?

Pretty art work. Made me smile. Is that a marmot?

I have a Barnsby Hammond saddle but have not dropped the panel on it (yet). Can you show a picture of the tack you're asking about? I would start by cutting the pop stitching on the bottom front edge of the pommel, shown in the picture below. Best way to do this is to begin bending the panel downward on one side of the gullet to expose the stitches between the layers, and cutting them with a scalpel. Cut the stitches, working your way from one side of the gullet across to the other side. Pay attention to the pattern of the stitching, such as any overstitching to reinforce a seam, because you'll have to replace this stitching. Ideally you'll be able to use the same holes to sew the panel back in place. If you can't insert a harness needle through a hole try using a second needle inserted from the backside to gauge how the layers need to move in order to line up the holes. It's anybody's guess how much the saddler angled the awl for each stitch. Need to search for the entry/exit point for each hole and try to follow it with your needle. If you're really stuck you can work your way through with an awl. As the front of the panel is freed up by cutting the stitches you can determine if the tacks you mentioned also need to be removed in order to drop the panel. I haven't seen tacks holding a panel in place although there are 2 small holes in my panel ( one shown in the picture) that might have been caused by a tack pulling through the leather. I did replace billets on a Custom Saddlery dressage saddle with 2 screws embedded in felt pads that secured the panel, instead of the pop stitching. Most of them I've done use the pop stitching.

Thanks, Jonas! Hope to incorporate machine sewing more often when making bridles.

Thanks so much! Ha! I will leave that to the professionals. It is better for me and the horses if I stay on the ground. Thanks again for your kind comments, Ron.

I simplified the crown, browband, and noseband so they could be sewn on a machine. I enjoy hand sewing and had plenty of buckles and loops to sew. This bridle is made from Hermann Oak latigo and lined with SF Foot oil tanned leather.

Love your folk art, @Stewart and the colors are great.

Thank you, Bruce. Check out those rounded edges.