AlZilla

I concur, you could conceivably hit it hard enough to bend something. Also, I don't see enough slot for a screwdriver to bite into. I'd get to drilling.

I wouldn't heat those parts. I don't know what that would do to the hardness. But I would lay it down and build on what looks like a pretty good dimple almost dead center. I'd get a punch and make that bigger and deeper. Then I'd start with an 1/8" drill bit and work up. You'll need to determine how long that screw is so you don't drill through it.

Mine is a more rationally sized, smaller one, but yes. They work especially well on these screws we deal with that haven't moved in a hundred years.

It never occurred to me to try making a lockstitch by hand. I can't remember what this gadget is called but it does a lockstitch.

I remember years ago, someone on a gun forum said he always took high res pics of his new used guns. He said the photos showed way more than the naked eye. I bet these don't show up as well in person as they do in the pics. Also, it seems obvious that one end is a smaller diameter. Should you decide to take the plunge, it should be easy to tell which end to hit. That thing is a monument to industrial manufacturing of a bygone era. Obviously neglected, 122 years old and still quite a viable sewing machine. I'm going to go oil something ...

I see it now, too. Sort of a brown circle, midway of the shaft on the left. It's a tapered pin and I can't tell you which way. I'd also concur with leaving it in...

Plate 467, part# 15152 singer 27-1, 2, 3. 4 parts.pdf

I would have expected something like this, or a tapered pin in the same place.

I'll let people familiar with what you want to sew comment on the Juki. Meanwhile, I'll recommend you to this thread: Welcome to the sewing machine obsession.

200 is a successful request, so that's an odd error. Maybe try again in a few hours. You'll need to make a new response to this thread.

That's going to be a nice wallet. Is it chrome tan interior and veg tan shell? I just can't get a nice wallet. Functional, but nothing special and the pockets are always too tight.

Wow, very nice and impressive work. Tweak the dimensions and this should work for any cartridge.

I just went upstairs and looked to be sure. My 111w153 acts like yours. I never paid much attention but the other 3 machines up there all do the same thing. I don't even think it's possible to adjust the timing of one to the other. Just tweak where your "needle up" position stops.

1/8" craft foam is a pretty good stand in for prototyping leather. Your imagination is probably as good as mine about how to make it happen.

If this is your rookie effort, I can't wait to see what's next!

Exactly, just tweak the stopping point until it stops with the tension arm all the way up. I'd have to go sit down in front of a machine, but it should be pretty close to the moment the needle is all the way up.

I bought a hundred red spool pin felts pretty cheap from Amazon. I've used pieces cut from them whenever I need a piece of felt for an oil wick. And all my machines have beautiful spool pin felts. They really tame that thread spool on little domestics.

It looks like the metal straps are what carry the weight. You could just construct a new basket out of whatever material you wished. I like it because it'll block light. The down side is it'll make it harder to rack it off, if you use a plastic siphon hose. I like conical fermenters for small scale stuff.

If it's a 144 you may get a little insight here: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html

Cowboy Bob told us that on these machines, the timing is correct when the needle is at dead bottom and the point of the hook is on the imaginary line between the center of the bobbin and the needle plate screw closest to the operator. I looked at mine and that's exactly what I have. Much easier than trying to squint down into the abyss. The needle to hook distance still needs to be right.

Looks like you've got the corners down. I wonder why the stitch length is varying and the occasional skip. Probably the hook, needle, needle bar height and timing need to be fine tuned. Are you letting the machine feed the material without tugging on it? That can mess with the feed and thus the stitch length.

Well, you've got multiples of the same pictures, it would help if you cleaned that up while the edit window is open. This post is quite a bear on mobile. Then a list of what parts you're looking for would help. I'm sure there's a parts diagram somewhere you could work from. Australia is really going to complicate it, but who knows ... ?

You just took care it. Thanks for listing it here.

I looked around a bit and "Boston" seems to be the shape of the shield. I saw "Metro", "LA", "New York".