AlZilla

Let's tag @AndreasB to be sure he sees this.

Exactly. I saw that the question was about conserving a family heirloom. I remembered reading a while back that museums had stopped using conditioners.

@Crestare you saying it feeds the material through at an angle? Or does it feed a straight line and the stitches are at a slant to the line? The latter is just a needle choice.

This Wikipedia article on museum level leather conservation may be of interest. If I recall correctly, current thinking in museum circles is to not use any oils, balms, conditioners of any kind because they found that in the long term, they did more harm than good. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_and_restoration_of_leather_objects I've tried neatsfoot oil a couple of times and it made the leather soft. I see plenty of people here who use it regularly and love it.

That means your table is too pretty. Make it work!

Yeah, that's exactly the guy in going to call ...

In the kitchen for stainless I use: 1/2 Quart Water 50ml Hydrogen Peroxide 1oz Citric Acid I don't know why the mixed units. That's just how it came to me. Do your own research. Prolonged exposure to citric acid will leach zinc from the brass.

Wow! I thought I looked high and low. If they're available overseas, they must be available here. Thank you!

i'm kind of stuck looking for bed hinges. They're originally from a Wheeler & Wilson D12 (Singer bought W&W in 1905 and this 111w156 is related to the D12). I need to work back and forth under the bed and up top. Flopping around on the bench is a pain in the ass.

Yeah, I'm a slow learner...

Put your arm through it and carry it like a purse.

I'm kind of new to 1911s, maybe 5 years or so. At first a toe loop style holster looked odd to me. But really, in 1911 it would have been quite natural to copy cat or modify existing revolver style holsters. I'm really not a fan of modern holsters anyway, so I'm quite happy for mine too ride in toe loops.

I might have run the right side stitchline out at the edge then run another line close to the gun for retention. Maybe made it wide enough to have a stitchline all the way around the outside perimeter and another next to the gun. Partly just for visual balance. The lettering and the stamping above it could be deeper but otherwise are are spot on. Overall, I like it.

12 year old post, but @BearManappears to check in still. Maybe tagging him will draw his attention.

Yeah, servo motors and their controllers are the Mysterious Black Box of sewing machines. They're all just different enough that most don't dare mix n match components and the manufacturers give us just enough information to operate them. I'm surprised the electronic tinkerer crowd hasn't started dissecting these things. I've seen them being retrofitted to lathes and drill presses.

Top/Right of the bottom pic - Looks like if you set Parameter N.G. to "On" and turn the box off and back on, it restores the factory settings. No idea if it will help, but it can't hurt.

See if there's an option to reset it to factory settings. One one of mine I recently noticed an option to hold down two buttons for so many seconds to reset the box. That's all I've got. EDIT: Actually there's an option for it right there at the top of the 2nd pic.

Oh yeah, it'll be harder to sew. But it's fairly thin leather. You could pre-punch the holes with an awl

I'll endorse Fred's answer. From experience, the hotter the water, the harder the end product will be. If you have plenty of leather, it might be worth experimenting with a range between hot tap water and boiling water. I think the hot water trick played/plays a role in making leather armor.

Unfortunately, the "W" series serial numbers aren't well documented. All we can tell is that it was made in 1943 or 1944. Meaning that it might have seen military service since everyone was pretty well focused on war time production. https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-w-series-serial-numbers.html

One thing that may be of help ... I've found soaking veg tan in hot water and letting it dry makes a stiffer dry piece than room temp water. This was about 10 ounce leather but might be worth a shot. Vacuum sealing the pieces for about a half hour seemed to make them even stiffer. Just a seal-a-meal. The bags have a textured inside, which showed up on the leather.

The pics I've seen of these in use shows them on the side at 3:00 ish. I've carried at 12:00 quite nicely with things like a Glock 33 and down. But now that I've gone to suspenders I have to tuck my shirt in. Definitely don't like "tuckable" iwb. So, I'm looking around. I'm trying to imagine suspenders that attach at the side and incorporate a holster.

I was hopeful ...

Well, here's over a hundred references, maybe the answer is buried in there. Were it me, I'd let the buyer decide for him/her self so I don't get blamed for any problems. https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?q="Singer 29k71"&quick=1&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

If you've already spent the time to research prices you're comfortable with, maybe you could use them here? Let's let BossLady weigh in since I tagged her.