Burkhardt

You talking to anyone specific?

I used a cheap Ebay one for years and only because if cramping and hand going numb I got the BK. All the hand problems went away. If I had smaller hands I probably would have never switched. Tandy for the like 8.00 blade isn't to bad a blade upgrade on the cheap ones. Even the expensive ones you got to strop a lot too.

The question I would ask you is, what would you think makes a good knife? I've never heard of that brand maybe @bruce johnson has? I was fine with a cheap one and solely based on needing a longer one with a bigger barrel is why I went with a Barry King. The blade is better on the BK but that was the least of reasons I bought one. Still have the cheap one and use it daily.

For that price it's one of those you'd crazy not to get it for a just in case situation. You'll never lose money selling it down the road later on.

Also wanted to say in case you didn't know that by putting the resolene on first is what's considered a resist in case you thought the resist meant a different product. Any other questions let me know. And about dyeing before antiqueing is to bring the whole thing to that color and not by where antique sticks that's why you see people dye the background is to have the background really dark and what's left so it's high lighted more. Go to about the 5 min mark for dyeing back ground if you haven't seen it done before.

Are you using a analine specific conditioner?

As suspected you're doing everything wrong from the way the products are intended. After you tool, stamp whatever, you should have the back already taped to avoid any stretching from any tooling. Leaving the back taped protects it from getting antique on it for a cleaner finished belt which you could dye but don't use antique on the back. As @Dwight said above dilute the resolene 50/50 with water. To antique something as its intended use oil first, then put a coat of resolene on it and let it sit/dry. That's when you apply antique then remove right after. That's why antique comes in so many different shades is it high lights tooled or stamped pieces to almost black in back grounded areas then the non tooled parts should turn the color of the antique you pick so if you get antique on the edges is fine just buff with canvas or old denim. If you want to dye the back use dye, even then after it dries you should buff it with canvas. Either way don't wax the backside of the belt. Then apply another coat of resolene over the antique, edges and backside or something like Tokonole then use a slicker to smooth out the backside.

Are you using any type of conditioner on it?

1) Are you using a resist before putting on the antigue gel? If so what? 2) What do you mean by the color the antique leaves without dyeing? 3) Are you diluting the resolene at all or using straight out of the bottle? 4) What do you mean by getting dye rubbing off onto the jeans? Are you putting the gel on the front and back of the belt or where is the rub-off coming from?

Curious to know cuz I got a split myself, did the antique work on the other bag you were making?

Smooth bottom walking foot that @Gump wrote as I did a read by and what I looked for. Should have payed closer attention but I'm not to good at that.

https://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/products/heavy-duty-presser-foot-set-for-consew-206rb-singer-111w-221w-sewing-machine?variant=32221891362869 Looks smooth I think

My thought would be since it is a split is that it would take the antique like the background of something that has back grounding done when tooled meaning it will turn black over the whole thing instead of tan even with a resist on it.

As @Frodo said, that's the guy that I got all the adjustments from, but in order for anything to work that was my biggest frustration from the start was taking the hook and bottom carrier out and getting all the black crap off it. You'll never get it to work till it's sanded and buffed completely smooth. @chuck123wapati is the latest to get one working so plenty of people here got one and have gone through everything to get working

Aren't the 135x17 needles for fabric? And wouldn't a size 22 needle be a minimum for 207? Or am I off with the numbers for that machine?

Round head, flat head, aluminum, steel, brass? You have the length do you have the diameter and a lot have gone to metric. Have you looked at SLC, BuckleGuy, Steckstore or Tandy?

upload to youtube and post the link

My god, 516.00 for zippers. I had to look at it 3 times to see if I read it wrong. That's what I do is get like 20 ft and how ever many pulls with it. The ones you listed looks like a quality zipper.

Shorten the stitch length will help and then see how the look. The bottom never looks as good as the top.

As @kgg said, some look a little different but all do the same thing, they also have some on Ebay and @Patrick1 sells some. I got a 3/16th thick piece of aluminum and made a L-bracket and drilled the holes out

Are you talking about the bobbin tension screw or the screws that hold the whole hook and bobbin in the machine/

Love the color contrast.

The meat slicer one or the rest(that one yes I read). Didn't read the actual article you linked, but read everything else you wrote.

So you have tested and found all these things out by experience yourself?

@CowboyBob might have something or can tell where to find one.