Wepster

google is your friend, i googled belt blanks blank name, https://www.zackwhite.com/1-12-Finished-Embossed-Name-Belt-Blank-XXL-_p_6108.html or https://www.springfieldleather.com/Belt-Strip-Name-Embsd-OakLeaf https://gavereleather.net/namebelts.aspx

As this thread progresses, I think we should keep in mind, thread. As we condition leather products, what ever we use is also affecting the thread. I doubt olive oil would affect the stitching, but other products might, as most threads seem to be synthetic. So, perhaps these experiments should be on stitched leather (and stitched with various thread types). Good luck. I will keep following this thread. I certainly do not have any answers. Hmm, I wonder about the Scandinavian soap finish (used on floors and furniture) would fare on leather? Cheap, natural (depending on your definition), used on human skin. Don't know what it would add or protect from though (but it does have the word "finish" in it).

I can not address mineral oil, but some petro based products do destroy some types of thread. Where I used to work guys sprayed PB blaster over their work boots to "waterproof" them. Their boots generally lasted 6 mos, they fell apart. The stitching broke down. Perhaps reaching out to a tannery with your question (and let us know) would yield more accurate results.

Thank you, very useful information. Now on to more stuff I dont need! I really like notebooks. I even have 3 of these (ebay and goodwill, 3 different radii) https://www.lasscowizer.com/cr-20-corner-cutter/

Your work is quite nice. I am curious about what punch you have chosen. I see several on Amazon, and one at Staples (i think, with using it, I like the Staples one better). Also, the paper I am finding on Amazon seems to be somewhat heavier stock than what is usual for a notebook. Is it necessary to hold up to the open style of hole? Or can a copier weight paper be used? (reminds me of the loose leaf ledger (used a post system) books my father used 70 years ago (a circle and a triangle, base of triagle at edge of paper, apex at the circumference of the hole) seems they are still used https://www.staples.com/Wilson-Jones-End-Balance-Ledger-Forms-9-1-4-x-11-7-8-Green-WLJGN2D/product_507104?cid=PS:GS:SBD:PLA:Paper:NIT823:BAU

make your own, https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=563438282&sxsrf=AB5stBjOKiyZYAN7nj1oFac-7UwgBa_JvA:1694108533745&q=DIY+sanding+drum+sleeves&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjNj_WKhpmBAxWTj4kEHaN_A1UQ1QJ6BAhBEAE&biw=1170&bih=658&dpr=2.25

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265594833738

These belts are popular for woodworking machines. make the size you need. https://www.google.com/search?q=table+saw+linked+belt&oq=table+s&aqs=chrome.7.69i57j69i65l3j69i60l3j69i59.4323j0j7&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 I am pretty sure I learned about these here (for motorizing a chinese shoe patcher) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3YT12H/?coliid=IKY5DR5CM4D7D&colid=2QL7NY4CBGDVU&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

He said it was for hand cranking.

In lieu of replacing wheel, could you drill, bolt on a small bracket and add a knob, like a steering wheel knob? (I grew up calling them necker knobs).

S&W has a K frame .38 special (.38 S&W special). Its the round not the revolver. Also some J frames have no external hammer (if some sort of a keeper were considered)

Perhaps they used Kevlar thread?

Matt S, will you please pass along some info that would help me find the thread containing his hybrid approach? He has over 3000 posts, belt produces more results that I have time for on this earth, roasted gives me a lot of coffee links (leather workers seem obsessed with coffee). The information sounds very interesting.

A bit personal, but is your name a reference to your fraternal grandfather? My mother's parents emigrated from Sweden, and she spent several years in Sweden as a girl staying with relatives.

Thank you. I am quite happy to get this info in one place.

To my eye, I too prefer the proportional spaceing we get generally with computer (or typesetting) letters, rather than the monospacing a typewritter delivers.

The vendor seems to like nautical names. Skiff, Corsair, Krill, Bosun..

I purchased a poundo board (Tandy, Weaver, Amazon etc)

OH, Michael Parkes, not Michael Parks (actor, "Then Came Bronson" 1969, drifter on a Harly sportster with the The Eye of Providence, as seen on the back of a dollar bill (US))

If you mean ring binders ie. https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Economy-Binder-Showcase/dp/B077X9NMRC/ref=sr_1_11_ffob_sspa?crid=1CDJX5DQQVL08&keywords=ring%2Bbinder&qid=1691404293&sprefix=ring%2Bbinder%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-11-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1 Don't the ring binders front and back generally open almost 180 degrees? so that the front piece and the back piece could touch behind the spine? Well anyway, the two I just looked at here will, thus putting on a cover would be quite easy.

one looks like a captive ring tool - woodturning. They may be a mixed bag, a collection of tools from a person who had a variety of interests. No one craft, but several.

That is covering your bases! That is the approach I take for stuff. (perhaps I do it too much, I have a lot of stuff!)

My experience with the V shaped ones showed me the knife/edge needs to be same degree or or a tad less (more? never sure). Otherwise the side of the blade is being scraped by the carbide, up higher from the edge. Always though a light touch. The bar type, like the sharpal I have had good luck with, lightly drawn trailing edge at an angle slighly towards the cutting edge. That being said, we all have different approaches to sharpening and favorite devices. I seem to collect sharpening devices, getting better at using them in my old age.

looks similar to https://www.amazon.com/Luna-Tech-LTK9505-Sharpener-Aluminum/dp/B07RJT5B4F/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=carbide+sharpener&qid=1691243844&sr=8-10 you might consider one of these (or other similar tools) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8VKZO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 light stroke seems to do a good job, I have used it on sickles and grass shears. Try carbide sharpener in Amazon or google. Local hardware probably has similar tools.

I routinely strop my utility knife blades (and even the cheap snap off blades). Gets them sharper and last longer. I will strop even before 1st use.