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Showing results for tags 'juki'.
Found 101 results
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Hello, I’m having such an annoying problem with my “JACK JK-513A” servo engine. The engine is connected to my “JUKI DDL-8700”. So here’s the issue: The engine won’t go any faster than 02 in speed... Even though the speed is set to 20-30. Everything worked fine just the other day. Today when I started to sew, I received an "E5 error" — after I solved the error, it seems like the machine won't sew any faster than 02. Please check the following demonstration video by clicking the link: Demonstration video Does anyone have an idea, of what I can do? (Btw. thanks for letting me join the community)
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Selling my trusty Juki 563, I have installed a servo motor last year. Its a great work horse. I've been using it for sewing leather and heavy duty canvas. Finally upgraded to a cylinder arm machine and need to make some space.. I am asking for $999 - local pick up only please, I can't even think of shipping this thing.
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Hello! We are a small leather goods manufacturer and we are consolidating our machine inventory! We have several industrial machines available. All machines are in used, working condition and are sold as-is. They have all been in use in a production facility most recently in December 2018. Please DM me if you would like more information in regard to pricing and photos. Please make an offer! If you are in the Twin Cities area, we would be happy to coordinate a showing for you. Please arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping - we have a loading dock for convenience. Cash only. We have the following machines for sale: Leather Machinery Fortuna 3443 Band Knife Splitter United-Carr M 235 Kickpress Judson L. Thomson 21. 2776 Kickpress Prym Press Pneumatic Snap Setter Schaefer TC 15 Topside Cementer Franklin Imprinting Machines A11593041 Hot Stamper Kwik Print 425 Hot Stamper Central Machine 37151 Metal Cutting Band Saw (x2) WSK PP-34F Pneumatic Embossing Machine (x2) USM Emhart Clicker Model B Brute Eastman Class 627 Table Knife Royersford Excelsior No. 10 Kickpress United-Carr M235 Kickpress Sewing Machinery (x3) Adler 267 Walking Foot - $900 Consew 206RB Walking Foot - $700 Consew 227R Walking Foot Cylinder Arm - $1,400 (x2) Juki LU-563 Walking Foot - $900 Juki DLN-415-4 Needle Feed, 220V - $750 (x5) Seiko STH-8BLD-3 Walking Foot - $900 (x2) Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 Walking Foot - $1,100 Seiko LSWN-8BL-3 Walking Foot, HEAD ONLY - $700 Singer 111W151 Needle Feed - $500 NEW - Typical GC2263V Walking Foot Cylinder Arm - $2,000 Thank you for your interest! -
I recently bought a used juki LS1341. Got it from a commercial shop and it was set up and sewing fine. Moved to a new state, new shop, set back up and it sews about two stitches and thread starts gathering up underneath. I have never had this problem on any of my machines before. Anyone have a suggestion?
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Hi all, I am trying to install a zeromax speed reducer i bought onto a juki ddl8700 with servo motor for some fine tune sewing of curved in tight spaces on small objects of leather and other thich fabric. Could anyone help me in figuring out how it is to be mounted/installed? I can grasp the concept and verify the reducer device appears to be working properly, I am just a bit confused on where to mount, top or bottom, and how/if I need to move my current servo motor for the belts to correspond and unit to sew properly. Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated I am a technician and have no problems using my hands I am just not exactly a pro when it comes to sewing machines as I have only picked it up as a side hobby over the past 1-2 years. Thanks! James
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I'm having a strange situation with the thread tension on a juki LU1508N. To get the stitch to "look" like the tension is right (no threads peeking through the opposite side), i have to have the top thread extremely tight and the bobbin extremely loose. I have about 10 of these machines and this is the only one with this issue. Its also skipping stitches intermittently... not sure if that is a related problem or not. Does anyone have any ideas how/why this is happening and how to fix it? Thanks!
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Hey folks! I am having difficulty with getting a good bottom stitch for our leather products. I am finding that the top has a very even and good look with deep holes, but the bottom is coming out sort of rough and crappy looking. I don't think it's necessarily a tension issue, maybe the needle we are using? does anybody have a suggestion on how we can get this stitch look a bit more professional? Thanks!
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Has anyone ever replaced the thread take up lever on a juki lu562/563? What needs to be done?
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Juki LU-1508N walking foot industrial sewing machine. Large vertical axis top load bobbin. Built in bobbin winder.needle, Unison-feed, Lockstitch Machine with Large Hook for Extra Heavy-weight Materials. This machine has been very well kept. Like new condition. The table top has a spot where the formica/plastic is chipped. Could easily be fixed with some epoxy. Sews perfectly, come try it out before you buy it. Asking $1600 Located in St. Louis Can load or ship. Thanks, Jeremy https://photos.app.goo.gl/p6zGLAGHcZ1H2pub9
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Hi all, I have a Juki 1508 (1508NH specifically) that I am now experimenting with for production wallet sewing. This machine, along with my others, have primarily been used for canvas work and I'm very inexperienced with leather sewing. I pulled out some leather scraps yesterday and now understand it's going to be quite a bit of fiddling to get a nice finish! I was hoping I could get some advice on some immediate issues - I have no access to a machine mechanic because of where I live unfortunately, however this machine will be dedicated to this one task, so it can be tweaked for its purpose. The presser foot & feed dog are leaving tracks along my leather. Can the presser foot be replaced with something made of nylon? Are there special 'leather feed dogs' which have less aggressive teeth, or is it all about tension and adjustment? I'd like to use M20 nylon bonded thread - what is a leather point needle recommendation for this thread size? I need to slow the machine right down (clutch motor) - is a smaller pulley the way to go or must I get one of the more specific speed reducing pulleys which also gear the machine for torque? The Nick-O Sew dual speed reducers on eBay are nice, but after USD conversion and shipping to Australia it's an expensive bit of gear. Thanks so much! -m
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Hey guys! I’ve got another few questions for you. Last post I did I was asking about buying the Juki lu 563. I picked it up and got a new servo motor for it. So I tried sewing so,e projects but the stitching wasn’t turning out the was I though. Yes I’m new at this so it most likely is my shakey hands that are messing everything up but I still wanted to check the machine over to make sure everything is turned. My biggest issue is the stitch length isn’t set properly. I can only get 5per inch or like 12 per inch. Also when I reverse stitch, it does it in much smaller lengths and puts even more holes in my leather. I followed the video in all of the adjustments but I couldn’t get it to work much better. This is leads me to my questions. How would I adjust the switch length? (When I set it to 4 per inch it doesn’t currently do 4 per inch. More like 5 or 6) how can I adjust the reverse stitch length. Is it normal for my dogging foot to be rubbing abit against the plate under the presser foot? thanks for your help in advance. P.s. I wrote this late at nigh off of little sleep, hope it makes sense.
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I have 2 machines with work stations for sale. Consew 206rb-3 and Juki LU-1508N sewing centers. Like new machines in a very well made portable work station that folds up. Each machine is on casters and rolls into a shipping crate that is also on casters. The roof of the shipping crate Unbolts and is used as the ramp for the work station to be pushed into and out of the crate. Setup or teardown takes 5 min with 1 person and no tools. One crate stacks safely on top of the other. Both machines are like new and have been very well maintained. The 206 is missing one of the hinges where the machine head tilts back. Other than that they are both like new. These would be great for someone who has to travel and sew. There's plenty of room for material on the top sides of the machine inside the shipping crate. Asking $2500 for the Juki LU-1508N OBOAnd $2200 for the Consew 206rb-3 OBO I can load on a truck or trailer or I can ship one or both From St. Louis. Thanks, Jeremy https://photos.app.goo.gl/7v1ps9NfktdhQK1S9
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Long story, but here's the quasi short version ... Always been a hobby craftsman, wood work, welding and metal fabrication, electrical, plumbing, ranch construction, tractors, and a little sewing on the side ... etc. etc. I grew weary with a cheap Brother machine after repair and tuned ups, moved onto Janome HD1000. Happy with it, except for anything heavy (thread and/or fabric). So I purchased a Juki LU-563 with a new servo, bobbin winder, foot pedal, knee lifter, thread stand, led lighting, and various storage add-ons. Using scrap steel (1x3 schedule 40 structural tube) I had in my shop, I've fabricated a really stout table frame. I'm refinishing a 300 lb sold wood door as the table top (approximately 3' x 7'). I plan to end up with a pretty large and yet semi mobile (frame has casters) industrial sewing set up. I'm at the stage now to start assembling the technical stuff and I have a few questions you MIGHT be able to help with. CUT OUT - Does anyone know where I could find a cutout pattern for the table top? Ideally something specific to Juki 563, but if not then even something generic would be a great starting point. VIBRATION - My set up will end up weighing 400+ lbs and should be very stable, but I still have concerns about shake/rattle/vibration. I plan to set up the table on top of a 1/2" dense rubber floor (commercial gym flooring) and I am also using cut pieces of the same rubber mat between the wood table top and the steel framing, again to reduce vibration transfer. Any thoughts, is this overkill as usual? V-BELT LENGTH - What the heck is the standard/typical length V-belt most commonly used for a servo-juki set up like this? I figured there would be a couple of standard sizes, but found there are seemingly infinite variations! TOP FINISH - Table top finished with HD "heavy traffic" gloss urethane? Any thoughts on how this will serve the sewing purpose? My thought is the gloss will make moving fabric around much easier and a prefer the natural wood look over anything painted, especially when the wood looks great already! 110 OR 220 WIRING - new servo is 110 wired, but I know with my table saw I had it rewired to 220v and it has been more reliable and significantly more powerful. Anyone had a new/modern servo set up for 220v? HEAD LOCATION - I was planning to mount the machine toward the lower right hand corner of this larger table top, leaving more space on the left for fabric maneuvering but thinking about it last night, I started thinking that right in the middle might give me even more flexibility. What am I missing here? Apologies for asking so many questions all at once, my top question right now is really the cutout pattern (#1) but the others are semi-dangerous ideas bouncing around in my head! LOL PS ... I will post some pictures of the table, motor and head when I get a chance. That might help your understanding too.
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I'm having a little trouble with this new/old machine. It is a Mercury m-380b and is basically a nakajima 380 (from what I understand). I have it sewing, but it's definitely not right yet. I understand most of how to thread it, but the tensioner on top is a bit of a mystery to me, and I haven't been able to find a manual or identical enough system. Does anyone have any insights on the correct way to run it? And might it change depending on thread size? Lastly, I have run it several ways, not just how it is in the picture.
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I am copy/pasting here a post I made in another topic to get a more specific conversation going. I have a new Juki "semi-dry" machine (LU-2810) that is lubed by an oil pump underneath for the hook and lower feed, but lubed by grease and wicks on everything above the bed. Zero oil on these upper parts. None. The manual has one page about lubrication and it's basically just about how to fill the lower oil tank. There is no information about grease - like what grease, how often to re-grease, etc. (monthly, yearly?) It is seemingly "permanently lubed" north of the bed according to the manual. I come from bike shops and factory maintenance jobs. (I was also facility and equipment manager at a big screen print shop) I live by the book for maintenance but this seems like machine suicide. There must be SOME kind of recommended interval for greasing these machines? Like...the needle bar not needing oil...that's just WEIRD. Anyone have an engineer's manual for these types of Jukis? One thing I learned long ago is that if it is truly engineered for grease - DON'T oil it. Oil eventually dilutes the grease and may not supply proper lubricity for a given part. Thoughts? One thing I love is I don't really have to worry about staining at all. No need to wipe down the foot every time I start up.
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I'm selling my Juki 562 sewing machine with table, bobbin winder and clutch motor. Also included are 10 new bobbins and 10 needles. I just replaced the face plate, upper tension assembly, throat plate and feed dog with new parts from SouthStar Supply. It sews great with a full 1/4" maximum stitch (6.3mm) and an equal sized reverse stitch. It has a clutch motor, you might want to put a servo on it. I need to thin the herd to make some space. I am selling it for $750. I am located in Grants Pass, Oregon about an hour North of the California border. I am really hoping for a local pick-up but can drive up to 60 miles to meet you.
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Just wondered if anyone had the meanings of the prefixes on the model numbers as to what they mean, or is the decription of what they are meant to sew etc just in the numerals as a type
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Hey there guys! I just picked up a Juki Lu562! I was excited, and found out I’d need to replace the timing belt. I haven’t been able to find any info about how to fix it. The manual is hard to understand. Any tips, or videos that demonstrate the removal of a timing belt on an Lu562?
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Brand new Techsew 2600 walking foot sewing machine. Purchased a few weeks ago and has only sewed samples. Machine has been timed, tuned and inspected by Techsew and is ready to sew. Comes with a really beautiful tabletop attachment made by Uwe. The machine can be used as a standard flatbed or can quickly be switched over to cylinder arm setup. Comes with the following: Machine head and table Custom table attachment Premium Techsew motor with optional needle position adapter (sold separately) Swing down roller edge guide Double toe presser foot Left toe presser foot Manual Inspection certificate Magnetic led sewing light Needles Tool kit $2850 CAD. Local Pickup only, located in London Ontario Canada. Any questions, please feel free to pm me.
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I live in the Coeur d'Alene/Post Falls area of Northern Idaho, roughly 30 miles east of Spokane, Washington. I'm trying to find someone in my neck of the woods that knows industrial machines and more importantly how to repair and tune them. I bought a Juki 562 a year or so ago, spent a bunch of time and effort replacing worn/missing parts, built a new table and purchased a new servo motor, but I've never gotten the machine sewing quite right. Now its been gathering dust for the last six months, but I'd really like to put it to use. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find someone (hopefully reasonably local) that can get this machine working right? I really don't want to pay a home sewing machine repair guy to "try" to repair something outside their expertise but right now the machine is doing me absolutely no good ... I did make a nice dust cover for it the other day with my cheapo home machine! LOL Good grief, all I really want to use it for is some heavy duty sewing from time to time (i.e., kids creative projects, hay tarps, rv cover, pleather accessories, etc). if email is easier for you, my direct email is chris@firestarranch.com
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Which machine is better for stitching 2 or 3 layers of 2mm thick vegetable tanned leather? Mitsubishi 340/ 350 or Juki 341n? Planning to make bags and wallets. Thanks!
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Could I use Vinymo thread sizes 8, 5, and 1 with Juki LS 341n? #8 - 0.5mm #5 - 0.6mm #1 - .75mm #0 - 1.00mm Based on the Juki manual I read online, thread sizes it could take are from #40 to #8. Does it mean that the thickest Vinymo I could use with the machine is #8? Thank you!
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I’ve never used a sewing machine before and just stitch bags and wallets by hand. I am considering a second hand Juki LS-341N as my first machine, and I have a few questions. I’m really hoping you could help me out. Is Juki LS-341n a good machine for stitching 2 to 3 layers of 2mm vegtanned leather? How about oil or chrome tanned leather? Denim? Thick canvas? Do I really need a servo machine with it? I was told by a local dealer that it is more expensive than a clutch motor and since electricity in our country is not that stable, any fluctuations will damage the computer board of the servo motor. Will using an AVR solve the problem? Also, what specific things should I look for in a servo motor? I also remember the dealer saying that locally available servo motors are too weak. We use 220v here. Can I use a 110v servo motor from the US and just have it shipped here? Is that a good idea? If yes, what specifications for the transformer should I use? If I won’t be able to get my hands on a servo motor immediately and have to use a clutch motor, what should be the specs? What should I ask the dealer/mechanic to do with the clutch motor so I could use the sewing machine while waiting for a servo replacement? If I use the machine with denim, or denim and leather, do I need to switch to a clutch motor? For 2 layers of 2 mm thick vegetable tanned leather, what kind of needles should I buy? How about for 3 layers? I plan to use Vinymo thread. What’s the thickest size I could use with the Juki 341n and what kind/number of needle is appropriate? If I go a size thinner, what’s the corresponding size of needle should I use? I’ve read that some sewing machines tend to leave marks on the leather. What is that part called? Is there a special tool I could use to avoid that? I’ve also read that some people had to file down the ridges. Could I buy an already-smooth one? What other things/attachments should I buy so I could maximize the use of the machine? Sorry for bombarding you with questions. Although I’ve read some posts pertaining to this specific machine, I wasn’t really able to find out if it’s okay to use it with vegtanned leather. Thank you so much!
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I don’t have any prior experiences handling sewings machines and have always just handstitched bags and wallets. For my first machine, I am considering a second hand Juki LS-341N. Is it a good machine for stitching 2 to 3 layers of 2mm vegtanned leather? How about oil or chrome tanned leather, denim, or canvas? What’s the thickest Vinymo thread that I could use with the Juki? For needles, Schmetz seems to be a good option. What sizes work best with Vinymo? Thank you!
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Looking for someone who also owns a Juki 1508H older model, have some questions for you that are quite specific and will require me to take some pics and send them, please anyone? The machine is not that common in these parts, I could also use an instruction manual? thanks Brent
