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Showing results for tags 'tools'.
Found 215 results
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We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
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I bout the machine "like new" last March, and it still is...I used it only twice to practice stitching a belt, but then life kinda got hectic and never got around to using it again. Then, from Texas, I moved to Alabama and the machine has been stored this whole time...and yes, It is fully assembled, you can see it run and test it out before purchase. Ok, as for price....I have 3 options for you to consider... 1. $2700, my price of the machine INCLUDING my whole investment of merchandise for my attempted leather business (lol), which values at approx. $3500-$4000 at least..ALL purchased from Tandy Leather......THIS consists of NEW HUGE spools of thread*, NEW dyes and some used bottles of different color dyes, conditioner/gloss, NEW tools (multiple size punches,riveting kits, jewel setters, marker, hand carver, etc) , NEW conchos, jewels, eyelets, NEW belt buckles, LOTS of NEW UNUSED RAW leather belts, NEW belt loops AND tips, NEW packages of daubbers, 3/4" ALPHABET LETTER Leather punch set, guides, and maybe something I'm missing but whatever it is, its included! lol 2. $2500, price of the machine, spools of thread, and I will allow you to pick a few other things you might immediately need...To be discussed 3. $2250 machine only, and yes, the thread...I wouldn't want to sell you a machine without AT LEAST having that to get started *If I cannot find the thread at that moment, I WILL send it to you...Off hand, at this very moment, I can't recall where it is stored but I do have them Please consider these options and let me know how you feel, I do want to let it go, for someone else to use and benefit from so once you contact me, we can talk and see what will better accommodate each other because I have other business venture plans as well love... thank you for your time! Hope to speak with you soon!!! #GodBless
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BRAND NEW ACCESSORIES! Hi love! Are you looking for leather belts? accessories? tools to make belts and other leatherwork with? I invested in leatherwork while located in TX and moved to Alabama sooooo, obviously a huge change in market potential! I decided to just let it go and sell it to start a more passionate venture
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We produce on request indivudualomu hinged blades. The price of a knife 190- $ 250 depending on the complexity of the order. Shipping costs $ 10-15
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I've never posted so i hope i do this properly. I saw on the internet, a hand cranked tool/machine for punching slots for lacing. It automatically advanced for even spacing. I can't find it now (oh the joys of gray hair). Does anyone know if this is available? Does it work well? (or is it a filament of my imagination....) Thanks. Robin
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We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
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We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
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Greetings, I'm a NEWBIE & am looking for recommendations on a good starter kit. I mostly want to get into making cases, holsters, sheathes, purses & bags, and MAYBE do a little stamping/design work... I DONT want to run down to Tandy Leather and by a 'Starter Kit" that I'll outgrow in a short while - I'd prefer to by quality tools that will last & am asking if anyone could make some suggestions on what I should get first, or if there is a 'kit' out there that is of excellent quality & has what I need to really get started - Thanks, RussInVegas
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Hope this will be of use to some people.
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I am from overseas and will be in Arizona for the summer and was hoping to stock up on quality tools for leather carving and tooling. I was wondering if anyone could recommend somewhere in Arizona where I might be able to buy tools from someone who is really skilled in tooling. I brought some of my work with me hoping to have a professional see where I can improve and what tools I should buy to help improve my work. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
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$90 Sold as a lot, US shipping included. Great deal, the punches alone retail at $40/ea. Everything works properly, I've just upgraded some things and no longer use these tools. Great for someone getting into leather crafting. PM if interested. CS Osborne slot punches: 3/4" & 5/8" CS Osborne round strap end punch: 1" CS Osborne knife (needs sharpening) Tandy mini & maxi hole punch sets (complete) Tandy edge beveler size 2 Splash tool for tubular rivets Misc line 20 snaps, nickel Misc segma snaps, nickel Misc grommets & eyelets, nickel
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I have a great stamping tool, but it's too shallow. I love the design, and a pressing machine wouldn't do it. It needs more depth. It's steel, like the basic craft tool from tandy leather factory. The only other thing I can think of is using a swivel to cut the lines and then stamp them for the deeper effect. It's for a cousin I don't like, so I'm not willing to do that. Maybe on another project I would. Yeah, I definitely would. But I would still want a deeper impression. I know there's another way to do this I don't know about. I'm not great with metal. The only thing I really have is a dremel for my dog's nails, but it worked pretty good on a flathead that was too wide. My dogs really don't like it so I've found other uses for it. Treats are no match to the sound of a vacuum sounding engine. No matter what size.
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Everyone one has there own idea of the best and highest quality tools and there are different reason that make certain tools better than others. Steel type and materials used, Design, and price. Whats in your tools box? Name the best tools and who makes them that you appreciate and why! Round Knives, Mauls, Stitch groovers, Sewing Awls, Scratch awls, Burnishers, Compass, Stitch chisels, prick chisels, Edgers, Stitching Pony and Clam, Hole Punches....Etc. Stitch Groove- I just Bought a Versa Groove and when comparing it to tandy's, wow its night and day. Round Knife- I love my LW round knife especially the back cut portion Slowly building up my Barry king collection, very satisfied with the quality of beveler's and sewing awl Maul - the BK slant maul is my favorite, the grooves in the head are perfect I have started accumulating various array of tools, started out with tandy and slow started to buy higher quality tools. LW, BK, Osbourne, Chuck Smith, Blanchard, etc. This all Started when try to find a quality V-groover and I still havent found one, anyone know a high quality v-groove? -
I picked up a couple of these tools of eBay and have decided to make some new blades, as I can't find a supplier. I noticed that there is a lack of detailed info online about these things and thought I'd try to compile some. Just a quick FYI for anyone working on these things, the screws used are all 5/32 slotted flat machine screws or 5/32 slotted fillister screws. Finding good quality replacements, if you have to, isn't too hard - especially online.For making new blades, Johnny Kleso from Sawmill Creek suggests using 1/32 or 1/16 thick steel, with 1/16 being less likely to bend and is more economical.I've measured up the blade thicknesses and other dimensions of a No. 3, 6 & 7 to start the research to figure out how to make replacement blades.I have a No. 8 on the way and will add that later.No. 3 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 86.0mmNo. 4 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 78.4mm (From Shedbound)No. 6 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 74.0mm (From Shedbound)No. 6 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 86.0mm No. 7 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 84.0mm (This blade is in poor condition and could actually be longer) - Can anyone help out on this one? If anyone here has one of these, please consider pulling it apart, taking a few measurements, and sharing the info. Regards, Craig J. Brain Canberra
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The illusive Secondary Bevel, what and why is it? The secondary bevel is another bevel on an edge that is at a greater angle of incidence than the primary bevel. Huh? Lets say you sharpen a tool edge to 25°, which as we know for an opposing bevel edge (bevel on each side) will be 12 1/2 degrees per side. This will be a pretty sharp edge and will cut leather well; but it is a delicate edge and will require a lot of care, stropping primarily, to maintain it, still not too much of a problem for leatherworking knives, but it will eventually wear out, no amount of stropping will bring it back to bleeding sharp because the edge isn't there anymore. This is the same for any edge, eventually it goes, and you have to put a new edge on the tool. For the same thickness of blade, the "ramp" from the body of the blade to the edge will be longer the less the angle if incidence; 25° has longer ramp than 30°. We can take the dull 25° edge and change the angle of incidence to 30° with very little removal of metal and still have a sharp edge that will have more metal behind it. Of course, if you keep adding 5° every time you sharpen, you will eventually approach the geometry of a cold chisel (not terribly sharp, but tough as nails). So what we do is use that 30° bevel (15° per side) and "ride" it back with subsequent sharpenings. You will have to remove a little more metal with each sharpening as you "ride" the edge back, the heel of your bevel will increase each time you sharpen the secondary, but a whole lot less than going back to the primary. Eventually it takes as much or more time to sharpen the secondary bevel as it would to just go back and sharpen the primary, or the secondary becomes in effect the primary (obliterating the original primary), and at this point you can add another (the "new" secondary) bevel at a higher angle, or drop back and sharpen at the original primary angle. The nice thing about the secondary bevel, is that oftimes it requires using only a fine and then extra-fine stones to attain the edge because most of the work has been done when the primary was established. This technique is used quite a bit when sharpening chisels and other working tools that may be sharpened a couple of times a day. They often are micro-beveled at a degree or two increase over the primary and another degree or two over the last secondary when a new edge is necessary. Other knives, especially head knives and other weird profiles are difficult to sharpen this way, but it can be done, although the increase of angle between the primary and secondary may have to be somewhat greater when hand sharpening. I don't use the primary/secondary system on head knives. I sharpen to a convex (teardrop) edge using a slack belt (although there isn't a lot of slack) and finish with leather or a sewn buff and .50 micron compound in the strop or the buff. Art
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I tried to call Gomph Hackbarth today and got a recording that he has stepped away for health reasons. Has he stepped away from making tools or selling tools? Has anyone had a recent contact with him?
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Ciao! Let me introduce updated version of our piercing/marking rounded corners template for leathercrafters. thanks to special form of holes it fits tools up to 2.4mm. you can use your awl, ball pen or just thick needle with only one template. just fix the template and keep the tool as close as possible to narrow part of hole and you have a perfect marks or stitching holes. we also made intermediate guides and 90 degrees lines for better and more presized positioning of the template on leather. material - transparent acrylic sheet, cut and engraved with cnc laser machine. available in two versions - for 5 and 6 stitches per inch. looking forward for your comments! thank you.
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Howdy I'm sort of new to leather working. I've made a few holsters here and there, and I understand most of the basics. I'm wanting to get into tooling leather, and I also need a few other proper tools like a round knife. I'm also a college student, so money is a little tight. I'm hoping to get good enough to start selling some of my work, and use the money from that to help fund more tool purchases. Right now, I'm just wanting to get a good, basic set of stamps that will get me started on tooling, and a good draw knife for cutting out holsters (#70 or #71?). Any suggestions? Thanks. -Tex
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My name is Thijmen, and i'm trying to get started with leatherworking. i'm mostly interested in making functional items. but i can't figure out where to buy tools and what tools i'll actually need. so far i have: a curved leather needle (half a circle) a knife that easily cuts through leather. a set of chisels and gouges hole puncher tongs i also read about needing a mallet but, would a clawhammer with a rubber cover do (with that cover it'd pretty much be a rubber mallet in function) things i think i still need: an edge beveler piercer something to make grooves in the leather a steel ruler a self healing cuttingboard a marble slab (i plan to get a marble cutting board) materials i have: 2mm thick full grain leather which was supposed to cushion expensive couches. i have 2 garbage bags full of this mostly half skins. black thread suitable for leather (thats all i know about it) and a handful of buckles, buttons and similar things things i plan to make: wallets (seems like a good starting point) bags/backpacks (when i'm good enough) if i get good enough i also plan to make my own boots but that will wait untill i'm good enough in a few years the problems i have: is there anything i'm missing? and where should i buy tools. a steel ruler or a cutting board isn't hard to get but an edge beveler or groove maker is harder to find. thanks in advance
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I have these tools I bought at an auction a while back. I need help identifying what their use is. I do mainly saddle and harness work, so if they are for shoe/boot work, they are for sale or trade. I haven't found a use for them yet but Maybe if I knew what they were for, who knows ??? That awl haft is solid iron. Why would you need a haft made of iron ?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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I made a slicker/burnisher this date with a left over piece of Birdseye maple. Reading some of the forums by people that make the power burnisher I see they use a natural oiled wood that are superior to native woods. As I don't have access to those woods and am kinda proud of how this one turned out, Any suggestions as to how I should finish this one. I have access to danish oil, mineral oil, beeswax and a beeswax mineral oil combo. Any suggestions welcome
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This is my first post, so here's a little organizer I just made out of a knife block I purchased at the thrift store for 75 cents. I think this is a pretty neat way to sort out your space for an incredibly small amount of money. I had a little bit of chip-out at the bottom due to the low speed of my brace and bit, but now I have an opportunity to add some tooled leather to cover that little mishap! I was also pleased that I was able to utilize a bit of the leather I recently inherited from my grandfather to attach to the sides. I'm just starting out and don't have much room currently, so it is very necessary to maximize the space I do have. Hopefully this was the right thread to share this, thanks for taking a look! -Red
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Well, I've been tired of using an inferior edge creaser and can't bring myself to splurge on the Vergez Blanchard model, so I've decided to make my own.... Pretty simple solid brass and beech wood design with a knurled thumb screw for adjustment. Works like a charm.
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Has anyone use a tool, or made a jig, for cutting leather circles but with beveled edges? I've read the existing thread about cutting circles: good info and helpful pointers to tools. But I'm making leather cup, from Stohman's "The Art of Hand..." photo attached and I'm have trouble getting accurate circular bevel cuts. Thanks.
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Our friend Barry King generously allowed us to share his explanation of factory vs. handmade tools. Brian asked me to talk a little about "Custom/Handmade" tools vs "Factory" tools. I can go on and on with comments and reasons, so I may add a lot after initially typing this. Here goes: 1. The biggest difference is the impression you will end up with. Most handmade tools are finished by hand. Meaning: contoured, polished and filed, by hand. The key being the filing by hand. This leaves the tool with sharp lines and ridges as opposed to a Factory tool. Factory tool: Usually stamped out from a master die. This can be done cold or under heat. The disadvantage is the lines in the die are then rounded, not sharp. This is just one of the reasons for a poor impression. 2. Steeper angles and sharper tools are possible cutting by hand. No need for the tool base to be fat to handle the stress of the die strike(Factory). This is on the face I am talking about, not the actual tool shaft itself. A Veiner is a perfect example I am thinking of. 3. Finer detail by hand. This goes back to the hand filing. The Factory tools normally won't have fine lines because the die strike process distorts them. 4. Plating. MOST Handmade tools do nat have a plating process applied to them. If a tool has a chrome plating(Factory) it will usually start to flake after a period of time/usage. Some Handmade tools have a plating, but usually it is not a true "chrome" plating, therefore won't flake. 5. Material. Most factory tools are made from mild steel, except for the new Tandy Pro Line. Most of the Handmade tool makers are using stainless or tool steel. Wayne uses stress proof and has his reasons for that too. NO one material is perfect for all, but we all have our reasons for using what we do. I made my first tools out of nails, still use a few of them once in a while. Now, all stainless for stamps. 6. Different angles available by making tools by hand. Bevelers are the 1st thing to come to mind, followed by Basket stamps. Those that have use both, Factory and Handmade know what I am talking about. You don't have to hit the good tools nearly as hard because the angles are steeper and the tool is sharper. When seeing someone's work the is very intricate, just bet they are using a handmade tool. Tandy is great to get a person started, to see if he/she likes the craft, but don't seem to work well enough to get a fine, detailed look. These are just a few reasons, I know I am missing a bunch, but I will add more after awhile, as I am sure others will too. Barry King
