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Showing results for tags 'dyes'.
Found 35 results
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Any suggestions for dying veg tan brown or burgundy using household materials? Leather dyes are hard to find where I live (Amazon won’t ship them here), and I want to avoid exposure to VOCs for health reasons. Haven’t found neatsfoot oil here, either Coffee comes out much too light, no matter how strong I brew it, how long I leave it, or how many coats I use. Adding ketchup to the coffee helps, but not enough. One website claims you can use pomegranate juice. They were wrong. Has anyone tried diluting vinegaroon (I’ve never used it) with coffee? Or adding steel wool to strong coffee? Any luck with strong tea? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance. -
Any suggestions for dying veg tan brown or burgundy using household materials? Leather dyes are hard to find where I live (Amazon won’t ship them here), and I want to avoid exposure to VOCs for health reasons. Haven’t found neatsfoot oil here, either Coffee comes out much too light, no matter how strong I brew it, how long I leave it, or how many coats I use. Adding ketchup to the coffee helps, but not enough. One website claims you can use pomegranate juice. They were wrong. Has anyone tried diluting vinegaroon (I’ve never used it) with coffee? Or adding steel wool to strong coffee? Any luck with strong tea? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance. (I accidentally posted this in the holsters/sheathes group, and can’t figure out how to change it. I’m new here, so if that’s a rule violation please forgive me.)
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Hi all! I'm fairly new at leathercrafting and would like to explore dyes a little more. For my last project, due to budgetary constraints I simply used an antique gel as my dye, which I thought worked surprisingly well. I realize antiquing helps to give dimension to tooling whereas dyes are more uniform, but if I was going to antique anyway is there a specific reason to dye beforehand as well? Thanks :D
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I have two bottles of Dark Brown FIEBINGS dye and the dye was left to dry for three weeks, it feels kind of fuzzy like it hasn’t fully dried or cured. Is this happening to anyone else???? -
Hi everyone, I'm planning to make some leather stuff soon and the material I'll be using is un-dyed vegtan leather. Since supply is tricky for me and since I have to be very careful about dye safety as I make horse equipment and it is in contact with skin, I thought to ask this community for any recipes and methods for making natural dyes or stains for leather. Does not matter if they are super strong like commercial ones are, I just want something that can give leather a different color (even if it only darkens it) and something that I can make with relatively accessible materials. Any suggestions welcome, I am very new to the chemical department -
Schwabe Model D 25 Ton 14" Swing Arm Head Hydraulic Clicker Press - Baldor Motor Asking $4,000 Email for Pics Mtgreen32@gmail.com Click out Patterns in the thinnest or thickest leather, Kydex, Plastic & tons of other materials in seconds with the press of 2 buttons! The head swings side to side with just a finger push. If the Die fits on bottom table(About 45"x20") it will Click it out Every Saddle, Gun Holster, Knife Sheath or Tack set will be exactly PERFECT and uniform making much more professional products. Open to Partial Trades. Great Machine that is a great addition to any shop. SAVES TIME Instead of spending HOURS Cutting and it never comes out perfect, same amount of work in Seconds even have holes punched or anything else SAVES MONEY With a Clicker and Dyes you can lay them out to get the ABSOLUTE most out of your leather, no need for trim, every piece will be exactly how you want it and you can make every inch count! Can be moved or unloaded with Bobcat or Forklift Freight would be determined on distance, also could pick up from my shop or I could deliver if it was no more than 400 Miles from Greenville, SC for a price. Email me for Pictures Mtgreen32@gmail.com
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Hi, I'm having a problem with discolouration of my first leather project. It's a leather sling/safari/campaign style chair made with Tandy's 9 oz Oakleaf veg tan. I gave the seat and arm straps a coat of neatsfoot oil but haven’t got around to doing the back yet. After using it for a couple months, I'm finding that the areas my skin contacts the leather are turning an ugly, grimy grey. I've been hand washing even more than regularly due to the pandemic, so I have a hard time believing that dirt is being transferred from my hands and elbows. It seems more like a chemical thing. I'm totally new to this and had noticed that slicking the edges would often turn them greyish pink but didn’t know if that was normal. So I'm trying to figure out a simple way of darkening it all and thought I'd ask here before putting money towards experiments. I'd be willing to go all the way to black if needed. I'm wondering if the neatsfoot oil is going to be an issue. Thanks, Paul EDIT: just to be clearer, I'm happy that it's getting darker and patinated but want the ugly grey tone to be less noticeable. -
I have been using Fiebings’ ProDye and have difficulty getting a uniform color. I apply it with either dauber or dipping. The color black comes out fine. But other colors will have uneven color. On projects that have tooling I apply oil and let it dry. If not tooled, I dye without oil. Any thoughts on how I can improve?
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Hello all, I have been using fiebings pro oil dye on all of my dyed projects. I do like the way that it sits in the leather, but I am the type of person that would much rather use a more natural alternative when it comes to most methods. I have heard about using cold black coffee to darken leather, as well as multiple light coats of extra virgin olive oil left out in the sun. I am more keen to these types of methods. I was wondering if anyone knows of, or has had any experience with, making their own plant based leather dyes? I have heard of people using organic material such as: onions blueberries cedar walnut husks alder blackberries elderberries fern fronds etc... I do have access to these items, but I am unsure of the process in which to get the pigment out of the item, as well as applying the dye, and storage. Edit: Do you think this method would work for dying leather? http://pioneerthinking.com/crafts/natural-dyes Thanks! Zayne -
Hello all, This is likely to be a more unusual question, but I'm disabled and products with strong scents send me into days of migraines and/or vertigo. (I wear a chlorine-gas respirator and work outside in the open air, but they'll still take me down even with those precautions.) Buying a lot of products it turns out I can't use is cost-prohibitive, so I'm hoping to get some thoughts on the topic. I'm looking for opinions on dyes, conditioning oils, and similar leather products. Which products do you find have pungent smells? Are there ones you've found that don't really have much noticeable smell? Do the water-based dyes have less smell than the oil- or alcohol-based dyes? Opinions on neatsfoot vs mink oil vs other easily accessible oils in terms of their smells? Does Resolene have a smell, and are there less-smelly sealer alternatives if it's pungent? Do antiquing finishes have a strong smell? What I've already figured out: Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement and LePage Low-VOC contact cement have next-to-no smell and are fine for me, so I'm probably covered for the adhesives category (I do understand that unfortunately the Low VOC won't be as effective as a pungent, heavy-duty cement like Barge). In regards to dyes, paints, and edge treatments, the only exposure I've had so far is Edge-Kote (noticeable smell, caused a headache after a few minutes of exposure; it would get worse with longer exposure) and Angelus acrylic leather paint (noticeable smell but didn't seem to upset my system, though I only risked a few minutes so far). Anyone have any thoughts? I know I'll still need to test things that folks think might be safe, and I know people's sense of smell varies. I'm just hoping to figure out products to definitely steer clear of and things that *might* be okay. (Even if all I get is "product X has a strong smell, I have no clue what might smell less" replies, that still helps a lot. Knowing what to avoid is half the battle! And if it turns out that every product for a particular technique smells strong, I'll avoid projects that would require using that technique.)
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What causes fiebings dye to be chalky when dry
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I am making a harness/blouse and I have a 1/4" strip of leather between two grooves as a border on the pieces. I wish to retain the pale look of the veg tan on this strip and dye the rest to a dark brown. What is the best way of doing this. If I need to post a picture or two to clarify please just ask. -
Hi there, l am trying to get this color ( see picture attached). I have tried mixing and diluting different stains but l have not been succeful. It's really a lighter brown as shown in the lmage attached. Any one that has worked with this color before? Please help. Thanks
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I'm currently gearing up for building a custom suit of veg-tan leather armor to go over another costume. However, I am new to the process of dyeing leather having previously only used paints for coloring projects. So I'm looking for advice on the what materials I should purchase and tips to use them best. The most important part is I need a dye and a sealent that will guarantee that there will be NO bleeding of the dye. The costume underneath is very expensive and difficult to clean and will likely be be rubbing against other equally expensive and difficult to clean costumes and many use white materials including faux fur. Thank you so much. -
Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated. -
Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.
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I have recently been experimenting with using food coloring as a leather dye. It comes in 50ml bottles at any supermarket at a cost of around $1.25 ea. There are basic colors of pink, red, blue, green, yellow and black from which you can mix any color imaginable. It is water soluble and a few drops give strong color. I have found it to penetrate well and not rub off when dry. I advise prepping the leather with oxalic acid (1tspn in a cup of warm water) to give a clean start for an even finish. The dye can be painted on, rubbed on, dipped or sprayed. Strength of color is dependent on how many drops used. -
Hi, I I just entered the world of leather craft this week and I'm very excited about it! I'm already good with the swivel knife (just a cheap one from Tandy), I'm not very good with the stamps lol, but I will improve. Anyways, my first projects are going to be the checkbook covers from Tandy. My question is what dyes and finishes would be suitable for my first projects? -
I bout the machine "like new" last March, and it still is...I used it only twice to practice stitching a belt, but then life kinda got hectic and never got around to using it again. Then, from Texas, I moved to Alabama and the machine has been stored this whole time...and yes, It is fully assembled, you can see it run and test it out before purchase. Ok, as for price....I have 3 options for you to consider... 1. $2700, my price of the machine INCLUDING my whole investment of merchandise for my attempted leather business (lol), which values at approx. $3500-$4000 at least..ALL purchased from Tandy Leather......THIS consists of NEW HUGE spools of thread*, NEW dyes and some used bottles of different color dyes, conditioner/gloss, NEW tools (multiple size punches,riveting kits, jewel setters, marker, hand carver, etc) , NEW conchos, jewels, eyelets, NEW belt buckles, LOTS of NEW UNUSED RAW leather belts, NEW belt loops AND tips, NEW packages of daubbers, 3/4" ALPHABET LETTER Leather punch set, guides, and maybe something I'm missing but whatever it is, its included! lol 2. $2500, price of the machine, spools of thread, and I will allow you to pick a few other things you might immediately need...To be discussed 3. $2250 machine only, and yes, the thread...I wouldn't want to sell you a machine without AT LEAST having that to get started *If I cannot find the thread at that moment, I WILL send it to you...Off hand, at this very moment, I can't recall where it is stored but I do have them Please consider these options and let me know how you feel, I do want to let it go, for someone else to use and benefit from so once you contact me, we can talk and see what will better accommodate each other because I have other business venture plans as well love... thank you for your time! Hope to speak with you soon!!! #GodBless
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BRAND NEW ACCESSORIES! Hi love! Are you looking for leather belts? accessories? tools to make belts and other leatherwork with? I invested in leatherwork while located in TX and moved to Alabama sooooo, obviously a huge change in market potential! I decided to just let it go and sell it to start a more passionate venture
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Hey guys, Recently I've had a request from a friend to make him a dog collar and a leash for his wedding,for his dog to bring them the wedding rings :D I couldn't find white leather yet, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips to paint natural veg tanned leather white, whith like an acrylic paint, a spray, and then apply some lacker to avoid smudging and cracking. I'd aprreciate any tips!! Thank you, Lourenço
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I have never sprayed finishing coats on my work but, have been having problems lately with streaking. Some of you have suggested spraying finishing coats on. I have been given a small compressor and am wondering if I can use an airbrush to apply lacquer/ finish to my work. If so, what airbrush brand and size should I purchase. Do I also need to filter lacquer before putting it in the airbrush? Please help someone! Leather Maid (Jamie) Brisbane Australia
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My name Chris and I am a compulsive hobbyist. I play guitar, mandolin, ukulele, harmonica, and bang a banjo when feeling brave. I also make beer and other alcoholic beverages on a regular basis. I shave with an old fashioned safety razor (double edge) and a straight razor and lather with a badger hair brush. To add my list of manly hobbies, I decided to start leather working to appeal to my need to create. The itch happens when I look at something and say "I can do that!" I have bought a few tools to get started and have run into many learning curve problems that I can't seem to find the answers to after trolling the forums and YouTube videos. I have noticed after dyeing my cheap little thin pieces of vegtan from the local big hobby store that the material is now stiff as a board and curling on the edges...that doesn't help make a nice wallet. What are the proper steps to dyeing a piece of leather that doesn't make it feel like a piece of jerky when it is all said and done? I have been rubbing olive oil on these pieces like crazy to no effect.....but I have soft hands now. Also, I am not sure but it seems to me that I have been losing some size after dyeing (I read about the removal of moisture after dyeing) and can understand that. Should I be accounting for a certain amount of shrinkage? Like a 1/4 of an inch or something? I would like to make some patterns to repeat my work and I am not sure if this something that people take into account for dyeing (and stitching). Having fun but getting frustrated with what I don't know....if there is something that I should be reading to answer these questions, please let me know. I have been digging but not finding the right information. Thanks for any help!
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I am using Tandy Pro Waterstain for some of my products. I am having some problems with streaking and swirling when I apply my finish. I am using Tandy Pro Cream Finish. My black products turn out fine without any streaking. What is going wrong? Pat 1042 Leather Works -
Question from a newbie. I bought a nice trimmed double shoulder leather from Tandy recently for holsters and belts. Great price, but I almost did not buy it because it had been laid on an oiled product for a few days while moving stock and consequently has a rather large oil streak that actually penetrates the leather. The question: will this veg tan accept dye to hide the oil stain or is it a lost cause? I use Feibings Professional oil dyes. Should I return the leather to Tandy and pay twice the price for another piece, or is this one o.k.? If I test dye a piece of the leather I cannot return it.
