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Showing results for tags 'pricking iron'.
Found 34 results
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Hello all, I have a selection of vintage and new tools for sale, Unfortunately due to the size restrictions I cant post individual pictures of the tools. However if you want to see more just ask and I can send pictures! So lets begin, from left to right 1) Black walnut Strop that is double sided and comes with three veg tan strips with a backing adhesive to easily attach and remove, 2) Kobito knife with two blades from Aescalp and one right handed D2 blade which fits most clicker knifes such as the Lindispensable 3) Yorkshine no.2 edge creaser 4) Curved vintage bone folder 5) Vintage Manual hand held Hot foil stamp comes with out letters 6) Sanding block trapezium shaped 7) Vintage Michiels Bruxelles Creasing edge in need of wooden handle made in Belgium quite rare 8) Solingen Furriers Knife with out blades 9) Japanese Leather knife 32mm made by Artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 10) John Adams no.14 pricking Iron, teeth at the ends are filed down due to being broken. 11) Leather edge rougher with wooden handle 12) Japanese leather knife double bevel 40mm made by artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 13) Vintage shoe makers knife Vergez Blanchard right handed 33cm total length 14) Vintage gilding stamp with crucifix (from 1908) the scissors, clamp tool and long soft steel blade are just freebies to go with. I am selling the whole lot for 200 euros with shipping included worldwide. I can take payments by paypal. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
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I understand the difference in uses between the two, pricking irons and stitching chisels, but I don't understand from a manufacturing process what the difference between the two is. Can anyone shed light on this for me? Even though it is taboo, I have had success using a pricking iron to create holes and foregone using an awl. It seems that all pricking irons I have come across are french style (slanted flat teeth), could that be the difference and due to their thin nature they are more prone to break when hammered? Or could it just be a legacy tradition where manufactures couldn't make the teeth thin enough when the pricking irons were first made and therefore they had to only be used as a marking tool less the holes be too big?
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sharp - nice -ready to ship - good condition $200 shipped
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Hello all, i have a variety of tools for sale since I will be closing down my leather tool business. Just some of the tools I have for sale are the following; a vintage set of tools put together from odds and ends for 85$ which contains -Vintage C.S. Osborne head knife -vintage coarse grit sharpening stone -bisonette no.0 -vintage Vergez Blanchard plough knife -vintage Japanese euro style paring knife - Auto Awl Then a pair of Pricking Irons both 9 SPI For 65$ one is a vintage J.Dixon slimline iron and the second is a handmade iron by an ex Joseph Dixon Employee has visible grinding and file work on teeth. then for sale I have the following items -vintage C.S. Osborne head knife 38$ (bottom knife on picture -vintage Theo Harrington round knife rare 70$(2nd knife from bottom) -Japanese style skiving knife made from D2 steel has heavy marking from shape being grinded down 50$ -Vintage C.S. Osborne round knife 45$ (2nd from top) - Vintage C.S. Osborne round knife 45$ (top) I have also a very large selection of Wrose, Gomph round knives and other pricking irons and rose wood handle awls. I am willing to accept the best offers on these tools and as an incentive to those who buy I will offer free sharpening to a razor edge and I’ll give some high grade polishing/sharpening compound that we produced in our workshop I ship internationally from my location which is Belgium and I accept payments only through PayPal for which I can provide invoices too. If you have any questions please do ask I’ll be happy to answer!
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Like new KS Blade Punches (version 2)! Can be sold as a pair or single. This second version of KS Blade Punches are a bit slimmer and lighter for ease of use. The pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading. -
Like new KS Blade Punches! Can be sold as a pair or single. The pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
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I am new to leather working and am having trouble figuring out what I should spend money on and what I can skimp on. I don't want to buy junk but I also don't want to overdo it either. What should I make sure I invest in when getting started? I want to make luxury leather wallets, bags, and attaché cases. I am going to try and do some projects in a book first and then do the Leathercraft Masterclass (I like the projects he does) and then if I decide to move forward with this hobby I want to take Amblard Leather Atelier classes in person. Also, if anyone has opinions on either these classes/courses I would be curious to know. Awls and pricking irons confuse me. Is it better to get sharp pricking irons that go all the way through the leather or get duller ones and use an awl? On the expensive side there is Amy Roke (sharp) and Blanchard (dull?). I want to get my stitches as nice as possible and don't mind the awl step if the result is actually better. Should I get cheaper ones? Considering the projects I want to do I will likely need more than one set (I am thinking 2.7mm and 3.8mm). Thank you for your help.
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Getting rid of my old junk alongside some new tools to make space in the workshop. I can ship internationally and also give away free samples of waxed linen thread with the tools (as an incentive to help me clear out!) I’m going to sell the pieces individually but would be able to offer a good price if someone wanted multiple tools or the whole lot! If you want more pictures send me an email at atelier9640@gmail.com and I can send you more details. so here goes from left to right; - palosanto edge beveller no.00 used rarely great condition €45 - crimson hides french skiver no.6 €30 -vintage french measuring gage(I think) no numbers or details more for decoration €5 -vintage french XL sized wing dividers €20 -Vintage Peugeot frères wing dividers - €18 - crimson hides edger no1 €25 -(top) C.S.Osborne vintage rosewood adjustable awl handle with tightening wrench stamped Harrison NJ -€35 -No.9 vintage pricking irons no makers mark but apparently made by ex J.Dixon employee €20 -wuta leather edge creaser 1,5mm -€15 - Abbey England adjustable edge creaser €20 -Vintage English made clicker knife with two original blades and one curved €28 -W.rose round knife (top) Needs restoration and blade fixing to handle €42 -W.rose round knife (bottom) needs handle fixing and blade sharpening and restoration -€40 - Vintage gomph round knife. Was broken had one side grinded off and actually survived a fire in my workshop that’s why it has the heat marks all over it. Comes with a gomph handle that has a crack in and needs some restoration too. -€25 Hope you find what you’re looking for here!
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Like new Amy Roke Pricking Irons! Can be sold as a pair or single. The Amy Roke European style pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
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Like new Amy Roke Pricking Irons! Can be sold as a pair or single. The Amy Roke European style pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
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I mistakenly bought a pair of Sinabroks 3.38 irons. I received these today from Korea. It was a six week wait. I have a 10 and 2 tooth iron. I paid $160. and $40. plus $20 shipping, $220. These are brand new. I'm hoping to not loose too much money on these. I'm asking $180. for the pair including shipping in USA. I am in Boston MA if you want to check them out in person. PayPal is accepted. The reason I'm selling these is because I answered an ad for Vergez Blanchards but the guy said they were sold. After ordering the Sinabroks the guy contacted me saying the buyer backed out. I bought the VGs. Thank you.
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Hello, I'm selling my like new pricking irons. I bought a few weeks ago but find no need for this size as I'm making watch straps and wallets. $270 for the set. Will not sell separate. 10 teeth 2 teeth thanks, rick -
Dixon pricking irons made in England. I don’t know how old they are I purchased from a shop going out of business (owner is 96) they are not made any more they are stamped England and the spi number sets of 4 5 6 and 7 spi they are hand made I just found I prefer Japanese style irons. Shoot me an email hidegear1 (at) gmail.com would like to sell all at once but might be willing to sell in spi sets
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I love a European pricking chisel, especially among them J.Dixon. I'm trying to collect them. I want to buy or exchange what I have to own it. Please tell me if you want to sell them.
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Selling my #9 Vergez Blanchard Pricking Iron Set with 10 and 2 tooth irons. Purchased in October 2014 from Aaron at RM Leatherworking. Current price from RMLeatherworking is $249. These have been used on one Kangaroo wallet and one Perlinger notebook cover. I am in process of switching to Doldokki tools and would like someone to get use out of these great tools. Price Shipped and insured to the US by US Priority Mail is $200. Thanks for looking and have a great holiday! Kevin
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For sale: KS Blade Punch Pricking Irons Set #9 Set (2 and 10 tooth) - 3.00mm between teeth 8.5 stitches per inch purchased from Rocky Mountain Leather for $180. sampled them, but haven't used them in any significant way. $150, free shipping within continental US. -
Selling two sets of KS Blade pricking/stitching irons. These irons are designed to go all the way through the leather. Both sets were purchased new by me in December 2017 and are in great condition. I have # 7 (3.85mm) two piece set with a 2-tooth and a 8-tooth iron. I also have a #8 (3.38mm) two piece set with a 2-tooth and a 9-tooth iron. Finally, I have a 1-tooth iron (1.8mm) that has the same tooth size and KS's #5 - # 8 irons. The #7 set sells new for $160, the #8 sets sell new for $170, and the 1-tooth sells new for $35. New prices are from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Asking $250 for all. Individual prices are $120 per set and $20 for the 1-tooth. Willing to trade for the following: Blanchard in #7 / #9 sets, Doldokki Pricking or Diamond Stitching in #7 / #9 sets, Crimson Hides #7 / #9 sets.
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I've been working leather for about six months. All my learning is from YouTube, books and trial and error. I think I may be to the point where my stupid questions may be formulated as not to be as stupid as they wouldve been six months ago. My questions and thoughts concern stitching irons/chisels, the ones that are multi tined and are used to punch holes through leather to sew without useing an awl. 1, My first tool was a Craftool brand 3 mm 4 prong. I wanted more of an assortment--and not caring for the Craftool--I bought a set of four Aiskaer White Steel 4mm Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisels for 12 bucks. When the two brands are placed point to point the tines are identically spaced. What gives? I wonder if the Chinese Aiskers are wrongly described and are actually 3mm? How are these measured and are there different methods of measuring? Most seem to be sold stating the size in millimeters. I see a few brands that state the stitches per inch (SPI) which seems to make more sense to me. 2, Does one match the chisel or thread to the thickness of leather or to the amount of desired spacing between stitches, or, to the thickness of thread? I would think the thinner the leather the closer the spacing and thinner the thread and hole? 3, European vs American. I often hear folks referring to American style as being bulky. From what I gather they mean that useing a stitching iron results in a bigger hole than a pricking iron and awl? 4, I watched some of Nigel's videos and bought a couple of KS Blades pricking irons. Not having the experience or knowledge of the tools I really don't know what I have or how or when to use them. I've used them a few times but the tool make such a narrow slit that I often need to use an awl to open it up. Maybe it's because of my lack of experience but I don't care for them. Are the KS tools for thinner thread or leather? How, why and when should they be used? 5, I usually use 4-8 ounce leather and 1mm thread and an appropriate sized needle. I would like to start making hand bags and wallets using thinner leather. What size hole making tool and thread is recommended? Here is an example of the Craft Tool, Aiskaer and KS Blades. I prefer the middle line made by the Aisker. Like Goldilocks picking the bed not too soft not too hard. Thank you very much.
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I am looking for some used European style pricking irons, 7 stitches/inch and 10 stitches per inch, not too particular on which, and would consider other sizes if the price is right. If you are looking for other tools or leather, perhaps we could work a trade. (I have caimen, ostrich pieces, veg tan, chrome tan, many tools) PM me if you have some you would like to be rid of! YinTx
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I need some advice. I'm kicking myself. A year or two ago I bought a Dixon 8spi pricking iron. 9 teeth. I don't have much free time, so I've practiced marking and stitching with it. Originally--being cheap-- I thought I could try the tilted heel punching technique to navigate corners. I should have bought the 2-tooth 8 dpi iron. With the demise of Dixon tools I feel stuck. My question can I purchase a Blanchard 8 spi 2tooth iron and expect to get on with life or are they not too interchangeable?
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Calling all saddle-stitching gurus, I realize that when it comes to the balance of TPI, thread weight, technique there is a lot of grey area, but of course there are some hard-fast rules. Here's where I'm a little lost: I know part of this depends on the quality of the pricking iron, but when can and can't you just punch all the way through the leather and not use an awl? My understanding is that theoretically the iron is meant to mark the stitch and your awl provides just a big enough hole that your thread can pass through, but then allow the leather to neatly "close up" around the stitch. When is this pertinent? Is it based on leather weight and type (veg tan/bridle vs. something soft and pliable)? I attached a photo of a simple iPhone clutch I made using a Tandy pricking iron (7 TPI) and .8mm Tiger Thread on Horween CXL Horse Strip. I mean, it looks pretty sharp to me, but maybe one of you can offer a critique that I'm not seeing. I have just ordered a couple Vergez Blanchard pricking irons (9 TPI) for when I start sewing up kangaroo or exclusively horse front leather goods. I know that these exquisite tools will create a finer hole for stitching, but, is it enough just to have a highend iron or should I get over myself and discipline myself on an awl? Lol. I do aim to produce high-end, extremely durable goods. I tend to value quality of construction/function a little more than aesthetics. Thanks in advance for any constructive criticism and ideas! Laura
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Hi, I believe this is my first post, exciting! I am a pure hobbyist putting in hours on leather projects when I'm not to tired from work and kids and whatnot. Based in Sweden, btw. My question is if anyone of you leather gurus here have any good tips on how I should think when I combine stitch length and thread size (and leather thickness)? Every time I think I have figured out what will look good, it often doesn't turn out the way I want. Are there any general rules? I'm starting to think I should move towards pricking iron and awl, even though that's more expensive equipment and more difficult to do... Cheers, Anders
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Hello Everyone, Here i listed my favorite tools that i've been using for most of my project and have served me well and never disappoint me, A Vergez Blanchard 7 spi, 8 teeth, i'm polishing it twice a month and only shows a little usage, original packaging is still available and intact. I wish to sell it because i'm in some sort of economical problem and wish to settle things down first, attached is some images and some samples... Griffe a Frapper a Dents No. 7, 8 Dents Number 7 (Seven Teeth per Inch), Ten Teeth 1 1/2" width from first to last tooth 5 1/2" length point n° 07 = 3,85 mm increment I'm asking for $120 excluding shipping.. Item will be sent from Indonesia with international registered airmail from my post office... Shipping would normally takes 2-4 weeks depending on locations and weather... Thank you very much! Items will be shipped 1 business day after payment received. I prefer paypal or western union... But willing to accept other method as well.. If you have any question regarding this item, please feel free to contact me, Sorry for my bad english, Thank you very much!
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Hey guys, i just need some reassurance here.... I placed an order of 2 sets of irons with the dents inversee directly from philippe, the sales rep from VB, more than a week ago and have already tele-transferred the money. But i'm yet to receive an order nor shipping confirmation. I have been sending them emails but no reply yet.... is it something they normally do or are they having holidays or something? i'm starting to get worried now. : [
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Hey guys, I want to get more into handstitching, especially on bag handles.. Right now my handstitching doesn't look great. I've heard there are some pricking or stitching irons that you can use to punch the holes as well (as opposed to marking the leather then using an awl). I have a set which I've been using like that, but the holes don't look as clean as I'd like.. Does anyone have a recommendation for some pricking irons that would work for punching clean holes? Affordable is a plus! I'd love to know what you expert stitchers are using.. Thanks!
