Members Handstitched Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 (edited) G'Day, Out of some of the challenges in leather work, one is just an annoyance .Contact adhesives going off in the tin before its all used. Doesn't matter what brand. This is due the frequent opening and closing of the tin, and while I ensure the tops and edges of the tins are clean and tap the lid down firmly after each use , over time they go off with still some left. ( summer is a real *&^%tch for adhesives ) I only buy 500ml tins ( the smallest available here) because of this. I was buying 1litre tins, but I was wasting too much and it was costly. Is there any way of thinning / rejuvenating/ softening contact adhesives using a particular ( and available) chemical ?( not acetone, I've tried it) Alternatively, I could contact the manufacturer/s for advice. Thank for any help. HS Edited May 21, 2019 by Handstitched Quote ' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus, He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '
bermudahwin Posted May 21, 2019 Report Posted May 21, 2019 I put in a splash of Ronson Lighter Fuel, right or wrong. It works and I've yet to blow up the workshop. Quote No longer following it.
Members coma44 Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 I see that Barge cement offers a thinner, guessing this could be used. I have only used small bottles of weld wood contact cement so far. Just ordered a quart to save money but need some storage jars with the applicators to help prevent the same issue your having. Quote
Members Dwight Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 This will sound silly, . . . but I finally whipped that exact problem with a plastic peanut butter jar. Actually does not "fully, . . . 100%" end the problem, . . . but sure makes it a whole lot less of a problem. AND, . . . I only use Weldwood brand, . . . which can be lightly diluted with Acetone (I believe it is part of the original formula). Anyway, . . . it works. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Double Daddy Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 Like Dwight, I'm a "Weldwood Original (red can)" disciple...been using the stuff for years on woodworking, laminations, etc before I got into leather...the stuff just plain works...also keep Acetone around for thinning. I've used mason jars or (currently) an old pickle jar as my glue pot. But...leave it to Dwight to give us the empty Jiff jar for glue....practical size and resourceful. Works for me! Quote Have a great day! Chris
Members arashikage Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 Depending on the brand of cement, they may have their own thinner. It's best practice to use the same brand of thinner as cement, Barge with Barge or Master with Master, ect. But they all tend to work. If you know you're not going to be using it for an extended period you can thin it down quite a bit and just leave it. Quote
Members bullmoosepaddles Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 You may try Bloxygen. It is basically ultra pure Argon gas, packaged similar to the computer/keyboard dusting gases. It is a heavier than air gas that settles on top of the finish in the can providing a oxygen free barrier. Not tried it on contact adhesive yet. But it sure works on polyurethane and paints. Place the lid loosely on the can of finish, stick the straw from the Bloxygen into the container and give a two second blast then seal the lid. Like I said it works for my poly. Quote
RockyAussie Posted May 21, 2019 Report Posted May 21, 2019 Normally I buy 3x20 litres at a time along with a drum of the thinners for it as we need to thin it for the glue machines and for spraying as well. I ran short of the thinners once and found that I could use general purpose thinners (GP Thinners) be that it was not as good as the proper thinners. Your paint shop will be able to help. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members dikman Posted May 21, 2019 Members Report Posted May 21, 2019 (edited) I use Sika glue (from Bunnings) as it's a bit thinner than some of the others and works well. Like the op I only buy small tins. I don't know what the thinning agent is that they use but I found that adding xylene seems to work ok. I'm going to try a bit of automotive paint thinner, as it "should" work and is cheaper. It's also better to add the stuff before it starts thickening too much. Edited May 21, 2019 by dikman Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members Handstitched Posted May 22, 2019 Author Members Report Posted May 22, 2019 G'Day and thank you so much for your replies @RockyAussie I take it thats the same thinners you use for spray painting? @hwinbermuda I might try that,thanks I use either ' Selleys' Kwik Grip or ' Parfix ' ' . I have found they both do the job quite well. Now, this bit may seem odd, but, the remaining adhesive in the Parfix tin was going off, so, I poured a little bit of the 'good' ' Kwik Grip' into the Parfix tin and sealed it well and left it for a few days . , that seemed to have softened it up a bit. I didn't know that there are specific thinners for adhesives,( we learn something new every day eh ) so you've all been very helpful. This I will look into further. Thanks HS Quote ' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus, He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '
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