Recommend a tool you like that is not mainly used for leathercraft

[kgg]

My favourite tool would be my 3D printers. If I need something to make things more convenient or easier I design it and print it: Some of my design are:

i) Always hated having to hold on the end of the bobbin thread to get started, particularly the front mounted Juki 1541S. I hated having to babysit the end of the thread or it would flop all over the place and then having to cut the extra thread flush with the bobbin. I so designed on for the front side mounted and the pulley driven winder.

ii) Needed my scissors and or snips, loaded bobbins, needles, and screwdriver where I needed them, at the front of the machine.

iii) Needed a better 3 spool rank for my top thread that prevents thread from uncoiling under the spools particularly when I occasionally use cheap no name thread.

iv) Wanted to be able to use my inexpensive binders made for flatbeds on my cylinder bed so I wouldn't have to change the feed dog and housing every time I needed to bind the edge of something.

v) Wanted a close to zero pull platter for all my machines for that would self centre spools of up to 13 inches in diameter and 2" wide binding as well as spools of cording.

vi) Wanted a better way of doing small runs (up to 40') of binding and that I could use the existing bobbin thread winder to wind it on a large bobbin which is mounted on the front of the machine table for my flatbeds.

vii) Needed a small flat attachment for the cylinder bed machine that slips over the nose of the cylinder and attaches with three bolts.

kgg

Edited January 29, 2021 by kgg
forgot item

[tsunkasapa]

My framing square and a drywall square.

[Bert03241]

I would say My Dremel , I use it to drill stitching holes, drum sander  for edges. Burnish edges, rough edges for glueing.  

[DustinSmith]

I buy packs of printer size cardstock from Walmart, the heaviest weight they have, I use it to draw patterns, trace patterns onto the leather, make prototypes for proper fitment. Since its such heavy weight you can use it over and over again before you have to throw it away because the pen broke through, I have an entire drawer full of patterns that I use daily

[acope]

Quilters rulers.  https://www.omnigrid.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/rulers/omnigrid-standard-rulers/

They have many sizes, are clear so you can see what you are measuring.

I use them anytime I need to make 90 degree cuts.

 

[iamunique127]

I use collar stays to spread glue in small areas. I'm retired now and don't wear shirts that require collar stays, the reinforced plastic tabs that keep a shirt collar straight.

I buy cheap pin vises and insert them into old, cut down file handles to hold my awl needles.

I use cheap plastic For Sale, Beware of Dog, etc. signs from the Dollar Store from which to cut templates. They are big enough for most anything I make, rigid enough so they can be used repeatedly, store easily and seem to last a good long time.

I glue various grades of sandpaper to wooden coffee stir sticks for sanding in tight spots like belt holes on pancake sheaths. If the sandpaper is glued up the edge too it is really useful for sanding the ends of oblongs.

[sbrownn]

I use my low angle block plane to true up the edges of the items I make...no sanding necessary if the plane is sharp.

[Ole South]

Free chopsticks... The bamboo ones are the best.  Easily formed, they can be specialty molding "spoons" or stylus'. Nicely hard and smooth after filing/sanding and then burnishing on another piece of wood. I've even made double-ended orange peelers from them. Like the above mentioned skewers they are great for filling larger holes in wood or as a quick molley in concrete.

You can soak or steam bend them too.

Edited March 22, 2021 by Ole South
spellcheck

[Tugadude]

Fiskars rotary knife.  No drag on thin leather.

[donohueleather]

Roofing hook blades (utility knife blades), when cutting heavier weight leather you can hook the edge, and carefully control the draw, either against a guide/straight edge, or along a drawn or traced line. The blade pulls through with minimal effort and eliminates the need for multiple passes. Due to the curved nature of the blade it also helps cut bends and around corners without over cutting. I load my utility knife with straight blades and hook blades so I can quick change as needed.