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You need to move this to our Marketplace section, under the Wanted section.

For now, oil everything that moves and keep a rag onder the foot until sewing time. Twist every adjuster to get them past any high spots. You can even back off the pressure spring to make it easier to turm the balance wheel to break it in. Also, if there's a foot rotation lockscrew on the front of the head housing, back it off until it's needed. Oh, if the bobbin winder wheel is engaged, disengage it by rotating the eccentric screw on its housing. That adds some stiffness to the mechanism when it's on.

So do you think it’s just normal then? also thank you everyone for input! I’m forgot to say it a few times! Hahah

The resistance probably is when the foot lifts up cause it then is working against the foot pressure spring. The higher the foot lift is set and the higher the foot pressure is the more resistance you feel. Just my thoughts. I´m not in front of the machine.

i researched about the best leather conditioner the past few days i need one for better quality to use. i read reviews on the new york times, Better Homes & Gardens, Real Simple, The Spruce and Stridewise and they are marking these two as the best: Leather Honey Conditioner https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Including-Conditioner-Applicator/dp/B09RQ6KY72?th=1 Chemical Guys SPI_109_16 Leather Conditioner Kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner-Protectant-Honey/dp/B001TJ3HUG?th=1 However i am having trouble deciding which one would best suit my needs and would love your expert advice. i mainly want good quality leather conditioner. Budget is flexible, but I want something that’s truly worth it for long-term use. So which one should I buy? Any recommendation from forum experts will be appreciated. thanks in advance!

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Ok some(most) of the terms yall are using, I have to look up just an fyi haha! To show how new I am to this. So if I start turning the wheel with any force and all. It will continue turning like normal. Can I post video? We shall see haha

Well, there you go. It now has an official purpose.

is it just me or does the cam track look concave? It should not look like that, right?

This is the stamp I printed for this sling.

very nice !! i need that too.

i sure have my share of experience scars lol dont need many more but you know things need to be figured out once in a while lol. Oh yeah Kilns and wheels are crazy expensive, i have a really really old electric kiln but no 220 in my shop anymore to run it. soooo... a new propane burner is needed to be built for my project. I'll post pics lol sooo..... one time, again not thinking all the way through, i had this great idea to buy a small can of potted meat, don't know if you have it over yon but it looks just like cat food and as we have a cat the wife sent me to buy cat food lol. Soo anyway potted meat looks just like cat food even on a cracker so dont make one right after you buy cat food and take a bite in front of your wife or she will go into a craze you've never before witnessed lol. I've come to love this semi stifled growl she makes sometimes under her breath.

At least I lived long enough to grow out of it lol, but it takes so much of the excitement out of experimenting

Thanks you for that Jonas, I had found that as well and sent him a message but unfortunately he has not been on LW since May this year. I may try and contact Seick as you suggested and see how that goes. I would really like to know what oil grade it takes at least. I was hoping that someone from Denmark or near to there may know something but no luck as yet. Thanks again for trying. Brgds Brian

As mentioned the pin is tapered and can be knocked out pretty easy using the right size drift one way or the other. It is very important not to use a hammer to get the pulley off . The best and safest way is to use a 3 jaw gear puller . Without feeling or listening to the machine i cant really say if it needs any attention . Is it just a little stiff or does it actually bind to a standstill ? The groove in the pulley is CNC machined to a tight tolerance is i would not mess with it . The bearing that runs inside it is replaceable and is softer metal therefore sacrificial . I would just persist with running it for about 1/2 a mile of stitching and see what happens from there

HaHa dikman, your "shop" looks smaller than mine. I have similar boxes along a top shelf. Here's a quick idea, don't know how high your ceiling is or the new press but you seem to have a convenient height at 4 boxes down. Break there, lift the upper 4 boxes up and fix to the wall. A bit more rudimentary woodwork gives you somewhere to put the press and maybe even a bit more workspace.

@RockyAussie I tried a bit more Googlin. This member had a manual, the thread is not super old, so maybe it was worth sending a message to him and see if he still has it, or maybe if he saved a pdf of it. Brgds Jonas

On of the 'wurst' accidents occurred in Pennsylvania this week , when a truck carrying approximately 500kg of hot dogs lost control scattering the yumny load along the hwy, according to ' sauces' . A truck load of hot dog rolls also crashed immediately after (just kidding) . There is now a competition to see how quick the mess can be cleaned up . It 'mustard ' have been a difficult job to 'swallow' . Just need a truck carrying a load of beer to spill its load to 'wash down ' the mess . HS

Nicely done. kgg

That little "deep" spot could account for the resistance you're feeling, basically it's just the change in direction (roller going down then suddenly going up). If the track feels smooth then I reckon your best bet is to just start using it.

basically it depends on the size of the needle hole in the needle plate. I never tried to max out what it can sew but 207 / 277 thread with # 24 /25 needle is not a problem with mine.

Experience also comes from making silly painful mistakes . It seems to have taken forever for my finger to fully heal after I got too close to the business end of my sewing machine 🙃 @chuck123wapati my Mother's potters wheel is a ' Venco', it's a floor model with a pedal on one side . It does still work.When I saw the current price my jaw droped they are now from $1000 upwards, holy crap ! You're a smart bloke , do whatever you can to make your own , but be careful , we're not getting any younger , lol 😆 Last week, I thought I'd try and make a camp heater for my portable gas stove using a dog food tin , it does help to wash the tin first ? the smell in my workshop was horrific , had to open doors and windows : epic fail , duh 🙄 HS

Anyone can suggest me best leather conditioners for me. Thanks in advance!

My little leatherwork/reloading shed is a bit, umm, messy, I had about 7 boxes of various sizes holding various off-cuts, pieces, belts etc and at least two were permanently sitting on the table in the photo - the table that I use to cut leather on. Very annoying, moving stuff around. So, in the top of our wardrobe were three sets of Ikea plastic drawers, most of which had been empty for a while. Time to re-purpose them. They are 4-drawer units and can be stacked, so a bit of rudimentary woodwork to make a top and bottom, four casters on the bottom and Bob's yer uncle. Pretty much most of the bits and pieces fitted (didn't realise what I had in the boxes) with the exception of several pieces that are too long for the drawers, still trying to figure out where to put them. Part of what drove this is I've ordered a Vevor Leather cutting Machine, basically a small manual clicker press, and it will have to go on the table, which it couldn't do before.

If you mean the black "stripes" if the leather has a pronounced "grain" pattern, meaning the black bits are imprinted into the leather, then dying the leather first and then going over it with an antiquing paste should do it.