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not sure what you mean... Is it that your last stitch is probably to long and not hitting the 1st needle hole where the seam began? If so then you can shorten the stitch with the reverse lever and hand crank the last stitch - if you know what I mean.

What are you making that the three pieces wouldn't be the same length? 4 ounce leather really doesn't have any stretch that would lend itself to easing unequal lengths, at least as I understand easing from doing it with fabric. I'm going to move this to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum.

Thanks again everybody. MERRY CHRISTMAS to everybody. WUTA 3.85. I bought these from PacoLeathercraft on Etsy.

It was an experiment to see if it could be done and how well it did it. As to why - I could lay out a whole sheet of leather on my laser bed and cut out the body and score several different tooling patterns very quickly while I did something else. And they'd be just as accurate as a clicker. You dont lose any skills as far as tooling goes because the scoring only replaces the transferring of the pattern to the leather. You still have to follow up with your SK, and tool it out as normal. It just gives you another tool in your box to create different affects as well as it can increase your productivity. The downside is now you have to deal with some charring on the edges which throws a little curve when trying to bevel and burnish.

I've been using electrical tape. Probably because I'm an electrician and I have plenty around here.

Beautiful work!! If you don’t mind me asking, what stitching chisels do you use?

not sure where how you figured that but I have different experience (I´m living in a metric country). Maybe someone overcut the original threads on your machines. Nothing really metric I´d say: https://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/technical/parts/screw_threads/

I realize this post started a long time ago. BUT, I have worked on 29k and 31k15 machines and much to my surprise, haven't found a screw yet that doesn't match a metric size. Both thickness and thread pitch. Get a metric thread gauge and see if the ones you need match.

I am looking for some help learning how to ease a seem when sewing leather on a 1341. Specifically, a welted seam, where I have a stack of 4 ounce leather, 4 ounce 3/16" welt and 4 ounce leather. Each of the 4 ounce pieces have a curve but the seam lengths could be different, but I need start with pieces even and end with pieces even. I have done this with pieces that are the same length but having trouble with the ones that are not the same length. Thanks

Just adding SOLD as the next comment is all you need to do. Then a moderator picks it up and moves to old/sold and locks it so it can't be commented on further.

Hi, Jup - a VFD is the way to go in your case. Just remember though - in Europe most all 3-phase motors run on 380 Volts. But you can change their configuration so they run on 220 Volt 3-phase. If you want to run a VFD from 220 Volt sigle phase - you will have to also adapt to 220 Volt 3-phase which means that you have to re-arange the brass bars in your wiring different. Wiring for 380 Volts will have the bars connecting U and V and W connected to each other in line. To run 220 Volts you have to connect R to U and S to V and T to W. Only takes a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 7mm socket/nut. Best ya get someone to show ya how it´s done properly. VFDs from Chinesistan ya can buy via EBAY for around 80€ - best buy one that exceeds the current draw of the motor. Greetings from Germany Tigweldor

@Zol, Thank you for your interest in the machine and for sharing the link. The machine has already been sold but unfortunately I have got less than zero idea how to move this post to Old/Sold. @Northmount - would you mind to bother with this, like, again..? You seemed to have some magical powers last time. Or does a "SOLD"- kind of comment suffice for any of the moderators to step in and close the topic? Thank you guys for your support and Happy Holidays everyone Cheers, Grace

I don't want to irritate anyone bumping an old thread but I was doing a deeper study of variations on scroll work and really enjoyed this that was posted 3 years ago. It's another I've chosen to download the pics just to look at in a personal, private study gallery of my own, as inspiration and variety. Thanks to FrenchMich

Hi, This is what it looks like : .https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/81869-hand-wheel-shaft-gear-singer-29k.html Got one from a 29k51 that I can send you for free except you pay for the postage. Used to work in Regina for GE Railcar Repair as a weldor - back in the days when the Apollo MC was still in existence. If ya think that I´m trying to gyp ya - I can provide refs that this ain´t the case - only through personal message though. Greetings from Germany Tigweldor

Looks like a table-mounted bobbin winder could be a 3:1 speed reducer if you added a tiny pulley to the spot where you normally mount the bobbin.

I cut the fingers off an old pair of leather gloves and slip one on my finger. I cut off the end so my finger pokes out. Sewn quite a few holsters and gunbelts, Works for me.

Luberto Classic Custom Leather Sewing Machine - Metal Flake Blue $4,000 OBO (Sold for $6,900 New) This awesome hot rod has been good to me, but sadly it’s time for me to let it go. This machine will stitch your thickest leather projects, it can sew over one inch of leather. It can be used by handcranking or electric servo motor. In great condition! Made in the USA. Includes many extras. - Flat bed attachment - Drop Down Roller Guide - Extra Presser Foot - Holster Plate - Stirrup Plate - Electric Servo Motor - 12 bobbins - A bunch of Schmetz and Organ Needles - Bobbin Winder - Work light - Handcrank Knob - User manual - Spools of Thread - Stand -Instructional DVD - Home Rip with child’s artwork on the inside-Still plays nicely. Location: Los Angeles California. Close to the Gene Autry Museum. Pick up only - No Shipping Available

I use athletic tape. Maybe that's the white tape Bruce mentioned. I tried band aids, but they weren't very effective. Randy

These work for me. I had to make them with very thin leather though. Else bending the pinkie as one stitches can cause discomfort. I keep it in position with Velcro. Very little stitching required. The pattern, if you plan to purchase, is $3.75 at this point, on Etsy. \https://www.etsy.com/listing/177991649/pattern-leather-stitching-glovelettes?ls=s&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leather+gloves+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-18&sr_prefetch=1&pf_from=search&pro=1&sts=1&dd=1&content_source=26ef2132-bc4e-4635-9661-a74388428a26%3ALT6f7c3042b01201a47c9bd6f7e052a3bda7b44709&organic_search_click=1&logging_key=26ef2132-bc4e-4635-9661-a74388428a26%3ALT6f7c3042b01201a47c9bd6f7e052a3bda7b44709

white tape

Or NTB in the City where the Adlers came from: https://naehtechnik.eu/

I'm not trying to be negative, I'm just trying to understand how this would be any type of self-rewarding process. A guy can save pattern files and print them easily enough and trace them out pretty quickly, so that's not much advantage. Actually, using a swivel knife does take longer at first, but you also learn your pattern and how to use your knife in the process, a skill thats is required for any decent tooling. It reminds me of those old paint-by-number kits they used to sell, lol, you ended up with something painted, but gained no actual artistic knowledge of why or how you did it. A disadvantage IMO, ten years down the road, you still don't know how to do it by hand, and your skill level hasn't improved. Might as well just buy clicker and embossing plates if precision and time are the goal. The elephant in the room? Many of the very good toolers we try to emulate learned almost from the first to draw in and layout thier pattterns free hand. Patterns and tracing were simply a waste of time to them.

I don't hand sew but I would think maybe leather gloves something similar to those used for Cycling, Weight Lifting or Wheelchair use would work. kgg

Hey all, Okay, so it’s definitely a rookie question… I have yet to really grow my callouses on my pinkies, and my thread is starting to cut through my skin as I pull and tighten my stitches (I only hand stitch…). Any advice on how to protect my fingers while my callouses form? Thanks, and may you never burn your bacon, AZR

Thank you for all of your input guys, and Bruce, thank you for your cheat sheet with thread sizing. Absolutely not knocking your advice, but thread sizing is rather lost on me. I’ve never even used a sewing machine, and I hand-stitch with almost always .8mm Ritza, though obviously the same principles apply. Not sure right at the moment who mentioned the saddle creaser, but it’s definitely on my list of tools to get (and I know they’re generally pretty cheap). In the end, I actually had to rework the strap anyway because I trusted my cuts to be exact, which they weren’t, and I bonded it with another strap wider so I could simply trim to fit properly. It actually allowed me to sandwich a strip of cushy chrome tan, so added bonus on finish features. Thank you again everyone. I will definitely keep everyone’s advice in mind as I keep working and learning. Happy holidays to all, Preston