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Finally got the cord to finish the Corset hat.

I would suggest you join the forum. There is no charge and you can post in the proper part of the forum, and not have to wait for a moderator to approve your post for it to be seen. Post in Leather Sewing Machines.

Been a long time since posting here but I’m back with a possible brain fart! So I’ve been into some automotive upholstery projects lately (Door Panels) and the reach on my juki 1508 NS is ok but it sure would be nice to have the extra throat depth with a long arm. The machine I’m considering is the Consew 255 RBL 25 due to being top loading with a U bobbin. I guess the only hang up in my mind is the lack of a hand wheel closer to the business end of things. Am looking for someone’s experience with this issue if it’s one and overall opinions of pros and cons? Sure love my juki!

Hello there, My name is Stan Evans and I have just joined the forum. I am an 81 year old pensioner from Cheshire in the UK. As a restoration project I have recently bought a rusty old 29K15 patcher. I owned one years ago and sadly got rid of it because of a flood my workshop and it's contents were ruined. So I have aquired this one as a winter project. I have got along fine so fat but am desperately short of two parts I have tried absolutely everywhere to find replacements without any luck. So I'm hoping someone out there can put me in the right direction. The parts I desperately need are the flat spring part number 8627 mine is snapped and the very small needle plate screw which I believe is part number 393 or 404. The parts list I have doesn't specify which but I feel sure it will be the smaller of the two. I know it's a long shot but if someone could help you would make an old man very happy. Fond regards Stan.

Thank you so very much. Great information. Thanks again

Wow! How would you wear something like that without spiking yourself??

@fredk it been a while , but I have finally managed to up load those goth boots that i did a while ago. The boots came from an op shop years ago, and the spikes were from the US years ago. They certainly get a lot of attention at the markets. HS

I'm finally living in a table, but still have to shuffle the motor out from behind the machine because I haven't got it mounted down below yet. I still make some adjustments/observations by squatting down to see from underneath. (The sheet metal drip pan / knee protector has been removed, otherwise I guess I'd need x-ray vision)

Well done mate they look good. Just measured a rivet and they want a surprising 4mm. Will order some now.

This video has helped me considerably I have the same exact machine that I am restoring still deciding on a color I love the color that was used in the bottom picture...

What a beautiful machine, I managed to get one of these American St Louis leather splitter. I purchased it in lot with a shoe stretcher and a couple of other cobbler items for a very reasonable price. I plan on selling the shoe stretcher for it needs work. The leather splitter I will keep I already have it on the restoration. it was really in need of my restoration When I received it.

Put the screw for the eccentric, marked S on the eccentric into the slot (or V on the shaft)once you get it pushed to the left where it belongs & tighten the screw should get it feeding again.

I actually removed the set screws that hold the spring in place, and it was a bit of a pain to get that put back together (had to compress the spring with wires). But, I don't think that has anything to do with the issue. The "eccentric" piece slides freely in either direction, so I can slide it back into place. But, when the rod turns (for example, when I turn the wheel by hand), the rod does not "grab" (or engage?) the "feed eccentric" piece at all, so it is not even possible to rotate it into position for the stitch-length button to be pressed.

@Judo I would be interested in the Google doc, spreadsheet, pdf or whatever. Also, what subreddits did you post on? James

That is awesome! Love the carving! I can't even imagine myself trying to sew that. Lol

Nice work! Good comeback

I found those on Temu similar to ( https://www.temu.com/ca/1pc-stainless-steel-tube-length-500mm-304-stainless-tube-capillary-tube-4mm-5mm-6mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-g-601099551644232.html?_oak_name_id=9010104525789703535&_oak_mp_inf=EMi0gKqm1ogBGiBhOTk2N2RhZTNiM2I0OGEzYWIwN2I0YTA3MDFlZWYwOCDCu5j%2BkDM%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2Fopen%2F2024-03-11%2F1710136714348-0dee0bda551a4502a37d030446db1c83-goods.jpeg&spec_gallery_id=601099551644232&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=Mzgx&_oak_gallery_order=2123497396%2C1416546653%2C1556706142%2C2030261482%2C639126929&search_key=stainless steel capillary tubing&refer_page_el_sn=200049&_x_vst_scene=adg&_x_ads_sub_channel=shopping&_x_ns_prz_type=-1&_x_ns_sku_id=17592387188379&_x_ns_gid=601099558219698&_x_ads_channel=google&_x_gmc_account=695390730&_x_login_type=Google&_x_ads_account=6910707695&_x_ads_set=21445371984&_x_ads_id=163985514426&_x_ads_creative_id=705187068636&_x_ns_source=g&_x_ns_gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh8-XxtqJiAMVckp_AB0yLi9TEAQYBiABEgKM5PD_BwE&_x_ns_placement=&_x_ns_match_type=&_x_ns_ad_position=&_x_ns_product_id=17592387188379&_x_ns_target=&_x_ns_devicemodel=&_x_ns_wbraid=Cj8KCQjwoJa2BhC-ARIuAK-YPyAPBRiMisytKWY4gCe42YwLmzWGnnz3z3Cv-X8BXZO0JO9OMpk78c8fmBoC3BY&_x_ns_gbraid=0AAAAAo4mICGOP3XszhHdJ9mfoJkEYI7ia&_x_ns_targetid=pla-2322529874778&_x_sessn_id=m1vl5lgo1t&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1756906266410_lxtn1pj9ik ) kgg

@Ferreol Helle Clément, and welcome to the forum I think the biggest challenge will be finding a machine and a needle that will accept a 3 mm thread. I have an old Singer class 7, but I don't even think that that machine is able to manage a 3 mm thread. A problem is that the bobbin won't really be able to accommodate much, and I doubt that such a heavy thread will be able to go around the bobbin itself without getting stuck. I just checked Gross Beckerts needle sizes for system 794 (the one that a Singer class 7 and others use), and they did have a needle called size 300, but it was incredibly expensive - around 20 times the price of a regular large size e.g. size 200. They wanted something like 420 $ for a 10-pack of needles. My best suggestion would be to use a thinner thread (linen or cotton) and sew through the 3 or 4 mm diameter linen and through the wool fabric. This might not be what you are looking for, but it would enable you to fasten a 3 or 4 mm thread to your project. Wool fabric of that wight, I think that you should technically be able to sew on a regular machine. But not with such a heavy thread. As an alternative to linen, perhaps you could use silk? I think it is available in qualities that you can use on a sewing machine. Best regards Jonas

I think the part # for the table plate is 202259, and the hook end on the machine is #210844. Same hinges are used on the 107W zig-zag machines. Googling those numbers pulls up a number of sources, and I think you can still get them from Superior.

Thanks! This one was with my own pattern. I've made a hat before with a pattern from Dieselpunk but the hat didn't fit right so I redesigned it. His cowboy hat pattern is to round so presses one the front and back but leaves a gap on the sides.

More like it mate. I'll do a search.

My little bbq . It's not very big, but it works just fine, and big enough for me and dad. I got a 2 ring gas burner for my wood fired brazier so I can at least have a barby, while my ol' bunky is being restored. HS

Maybe some stainless steel capillary tubing as it comes in some real same sizes??? kgg

No, this is just a twin needle machine with a jump foot. But it's going to be a treat not having it flop around on my narrow table.

Just a simple rivet size tube needed Keith. Where my dies have a wood core it would be simple to just drill a hole and glue a tube in to save working out where to punch every time.