Wizcrafts

Yes I ran #69 standard bonded thread top and bottom in mine. The thread was made in Canada. There was no need for silicon. Totally depends on how tight the mechanism is and how much wear is in the bearings and crank shafts.

I think Artisan is still in business and can probably help you if nobody else can, or if parts are missing/broken.

It will have to be an industrial sewing machine store to get those needles. You won't find them where they sell domestic zig zag and embroidery sewing machines.

The gear that drives the shuttle carrier must be really loose, or maybe even missing. It shouldn't move more than about 1/16". It's also possible that the teeth on the gears are worn out. Finally, there is an eccentric screw under the main body that connects to the rack gears under the arm and it could be backed out too far, or shot. There is a small screwdriver hole on the rear of left end of the arm, where you can use a 1/16" blade screwdriver to try to tighten the set screw on the driving pinion gear. You will need to rotate the hand wheel until the screw is lined up with the hole in the arm. You can use 1.75" long System 29x3 and 29x4, or 135x16 and 135x17 needles in it. Household needles are much too short.

Personally, I have returned sewing machines that were damaged in shipping because they weren't properly secured for shipping. The flywheel is probably on an angle because the shaft got impacted and bent. Have fun straightening it out. Use a rubber or rawhide mallet.

No, we are two distinct and separate people. "CowboyBob" is a sewing machine dealer. His toll free phone number is 866-362-7397. I am but a humble and lovable UnderDog.

Unless you made a mistake in the model number, the 15-91 is not a leather sewing machine, nor even an industrial machine. It is a domestic model for home use on cloth and outside the scope of this particular forum. That said, the original foot pedal speed control is via a moving metal slug inside coils that are embedded in bakelite. The slug can be adjusted in and out for better foot control. These parts wear out over the years and become unreliable and hard to feather to slow speeds. You can probably replace the entire cord and pedal with a more modern electronic foot pedal made to plug into the Singer 15-91 AC socket. These are available from many sewing machine dealers, especially those selling on eBay. A Michigan seller, 231Terry comes to mind and I've bought replacement parts for domestic sewing machines from him. Here is his listing for a modern speed control that fist a 15-91. You should be cautious aboiut running the machine if there is any smell of something burning in the motor. Those pod motors can catch fire if the windings lose their insulation, or the machine is run too long without the proper motor grease (also sold on eBay).

Please be aware that the 211g140/141 (w/rev) are needle feed flat foot machines, while the 111w153 and 155 are compound feed walking foot machines.

I found a video demonstrating a Singer 112g140, which is one sub number off.

Did you look here? https://www.supsew.com/wpfb-file/juki-dln-5410-6-pdf-2/

Replace the cracked thread guide. They are cheap. Just don't lose the tiny top screw that holds it onto the needle bar.

@Ivan1939 If you plan on advertising this machine for sale, please post the ad in our Marketplace section, under the Sewing equipment > Used category. This forum is for discussing and troubleshooting leather sewing machines.

Right! Try this chart instead: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html I usually choose the largest recommended needle when I sew medium to hard temper leather. It needs wider diameter holes to overcome the friction.

That is the wrong size needle for #138 thread. You should use at least a #22, if not a #23 leather point needle.

How thick are the collars at the widest point? This will determine the type of machine needed to sew them.

Use a #18 needle with #69 thread in leather or webbing. Number 16 is for cloth and vinyl.

From the model number I suspect that it is a clone of an Adler 69 series machine. Call Bob Kovar (primary Cowboy dealer in the USA) to get more info on that machine. His toll free number is: 866-362-7397. Let us know what you learn.

I own a second hand Techsew 2700 (deprecated). It is identical to the Cowboy CB227R. These compound feed walking foot machines use a standard G size Singer bobbin which is often referred to as 1x capacity. They are best limited to a maximum thread size of #138 (22 pounds test), which works best with a #22 or #23 needle (depending on the density of the material). The maximum thickness they can sew is 3/8 inch if properly adjusted. My machine seems happier running #69 or #92 thread. The smallest thread I have run on it is #33 bonded nylon. The reverse function is part of the spring loaded stitch length lever. You have to pull and hold the lever down to back stitch. The holes will line up as long as you hold the lever all the way to its stop. When you let go the lever springs up into forward sewing mode. The cylinder arm is about 2.5" diameter, or so, (I'm not in the shop as I type this) and easily gets inside bags, cuffs and sleeves. The bobbins drop in from the top on the right side of the needle, under a sliding cover plate. My machine came with an optional table top attachment. The Cowboy has a similar table attachment and also can also have a drop down edge guide installed at an additional cost. But, I found a work around. There are spring loaded edge guide feet for sale with spacings from 1/8 to 5/16 inch from the guide to the needle. Problem solved! One final note is to make sure you get a mechanical dial controlled servo motor with the machine. Mine originally shipped with a push button controlled servo that started with a jolt at about 200 RPM. I replaced it with a Family Sew servo that starts at zero and increases smoothly to whatever maximum speed I set on the rotary dial. The motor is foot controlled. There is also a foot lifter for the feet that gives more lift than the hand lifter on the back of the head. IHTH

I suspect that the machine models you listed a 335, not 355.

There is a big adjuster cap screw on top that controls the foot pressure. It can be backed out until the marks are minimized.

My guess, based upon my ebaying, is that the much cheaper parts are usually shipped to you directly from China, Honk Kong, Taiwan, or elsewhere in the Orient. It could take a month to arrive. The higher price parts are usually in-Country. I would check the location before hitting the Buy Now button. Another reason for price discrepancies like that are when you buy authentic replacement parts from a brand's manufacturer, vs aftermarket parts from the Orient. The accuracy of the AM parts may vary widely.

I have added 3:1 speed reducers to most of my machines. That usually does the trick for me and should for you too. The question is what type of reducer to buy and who is going to install it? Then there's the question about your motor. Does it start up with a jolt at a couple hundred rpm? If so, does it have pushbuttons to control it? That type of servo is very hard to control and I have removed any like that and replaced them with this type of knob controlled servo motor. This motor starts at zero and speeds up to the preset limit of the knob. Heck, you may find that you don't really need a reducer with this motor. Note that when you change motor types, or add reducers, the v-belt length/lengths will change too.

The Class 26, et al, is a compound feed walking foot machine. All of these machines are designed to sew medium density materials, like vinyl, chrome-tan and thin veg-tan leather, draperies and denim. Light cloth tends to get pushed into the hole/slot in the feed dog. It also lifts with the inside foot on the upstroke which caused puckering and skipped stitches. You probably will need a flat bed straight stitch machine to sew thin linings.

Bags like to be sewn on cylinder arm sewing machines. Ask them! The next question is: which is the best cylinder arm machine fits my $2500 budget? If you are buying used, anything you can afford and don't mind dinking with when things go out of wack. But, if you buy new and the dealer offers (and provides) free support, you will easily spend $2500 (shipped). This could buy you a Cowboy CB341 or Cobra Model 26, which are clones of the Juki LS-341 (now superseded by the improved LS-1341). Here is a video of a Cowboy CB341 being demo'd: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVJ9_3AbmO4 There are other brands available used that cost twice as much new as the above mentioned clone machines. Adler and Pfaff come to mind, as well as an actual Juki LS-341, or the current LS-1341.