GrampaJoel

Well I don't know about their trees. But they are selling them for around $120.00. That's pretty inexpensive as far as quality trees go. So it wouldn't be to much of a loss if it didn't fit your horse. If nothing else at that price, you can keep it in your shop for demonstration purposes for your saddle customers. Heck, I might order one for that reason myself. They seem to only be selling trees in one bar configuration. That alone seems pretty limiting to me. Joel

Thanks for the info. That finish on the rawhide almost looks crystalline. So how is that double four strand braided? I've looked for this pattern for some time now without any luck, so I'm tossing my pride aside and asking outright. Is it from a book? Thanks Joel

If you're willing to share, what are you coating your rawhide with as a finish? Is it a Lacquer?

From just the two photos I think your craftsmanship is really good, and the saddle has a clean and punchy (tough) look to it. I would expect this with J W Wright as a mentor. Mostly a few tech type of things catch my eye. And it could just be because saddles in my area are made differently. I wonder it the fender hole is large enough to get full fender swing? Your seat panel at the rear doesn't match the skirts bottom line. Maybe you did it that way on purpose as an artistic design. The rear jockey is not laying smooth because your rear cinch seems to be interfering. Maybe it's just to high, or needs thinning of the leather. But it is pretty cool looking saddle, all in all. I repeat, it has a very clean look to it. Nice going! :-) Joel

How do you train a horse to move away from the irritation, if the para cord is not prickly like the horse hair mecates?

Here's a short video. ->>

Frank, ya know what I like about the belt? I like that you traded your skills, for his. This is true business in my book! Joel

Nice clean job! Joel

I'm no help here, but I would like to see the end results. Joel

Here this link works -->> http://www.tntanningcompany.com/projects.html

I sand the backsides of my veg tanned leather to get a smoother more refined look and feel. I use a belt sander, and hand sanding with a wood block will work just as well. 600 grit paper. Wear a mask, don't breath the leather dust! Very hazardous!! . I'm glad you made the trip to the Tandy store. Now look at some of the leather sponsors on this forum. These leather dealers are the real deal. Tandy is ok to get started with but they are just the craft grade stuff mostly. Btw, veg tanned leather is generally not as strong as latigo leather. Joel

Ah, I don't think what you are suggesting would work. But hey it would be a learning experience. Cheap hides are tanned the same way expensive hides are. The cheap hide are because of the defects in the hide itself. Not the tanning process. Here's a thought. If you have a Tandy store near you go talk to the manager about their hides. Let the manager show you and tell you the differences in person. That way you can look and feel the different kinds of leather they handle. I'll wager that most people,,, including myself, first started learning about the different kinds of leather this way. There is nothing like a in person, hands on , for learning. If you don't have a store near you than I guess you just have to keep asking us till you get the answer you need. I don't mind sharing what I know, and most here don't either. But nothing we say will help you get the feel of the leather you are seeking. Joel

If you want a high end result you 'have' to use high end materials. It's as simple as that. I think you need to learn your leather types before spending any money. The link to the Tandy 'shoulder skirting leather' proves you don't know your different leather types. Alum, chrome, veg, oil tan, hot stuffed tanned, harness, bridle, or what have you, etc... are all different types of leather curing styles. Each style has it's intended uses. Save yourself some waisted money, and learn what the different types off cured, processed, i.e. tanned leather is all about. Listen to what folks tell you here, and then try it for yourself. Leather working can be a very expensive venture,and I believe everyone here will confirm that. I'm not saying give up, but go forth with your eyes and mind, and your pocketbook open. Joel

A bi-fold wallet in my crafts shop class in school. 48 years ago.

This pattern should get you pretty close.-->> http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather-craft-patterns/6015-19.aspx Do you have a blue gun to work with fit? Joel

Campbell/Randall has some Tandy ( leather factory)waxed poly thread in white ,black, and brown. Lots of Berber thread also in larger gauges. I have used the Berber linen thread with good results. It can be died and the waxed to any color you choose. See here-->> http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=Thread&product_id=588 By the way. The best artist are always picky. Stay that way.

For high end repair on a small scale try this leather. -->> http://www.sheridanleather.com/Indian_Tan_p/ind-tan.htm I don't know how it will take a die, but you would want to die it after you make your final cuts. Joel

I've had good results with this product. -->> http://www.sheridanleather.com/WyoSheen_p/wyosheen.htm But never tried it on a braided piece. Joel

I just noticed you posted needing thread. Have you tried Maine Thread Co.? www.mainethread.com They will send you a sample card of their waxed threads.

My God that is beautiful! What are the dark knots comprised of?

I believe that rawhide wrap, or maybe it's even plastic.( I have seen them.) Will come off post haste if you take a fairly good dally or two on it. I suppose you could wrap the horn with an inner tube to protect it. But I wouldn't guarantee it would protect the lacing on the horn post. I could be wrong. Joel

Unnnnfreakenbelievable! It da_m near makes my head spin, it's so cool! I'd like to see one in person one day. Joel

I have one. I love it. I don't have the attachment though. Haven't needed it. I'm 6'1" and bending over a Stohlman style stand like my brother uses he's 5' 6" kills my back. I put my Ron's draw down on rollers so I could move it around the shop easier. It ain't light. It cost a whole lot more than my brothers, but it goes up and down, and spins around as I need it to. His just sits there. You got to walk around it and away from your tools and bench. Of course the walking can be good exercise I'm told. Joel

I too, think you have it right. The example is shot in such a way as to hide the end you are trying to outwit. Tighten one of your up and the photo it like the example. I'll bet they look the same. Joel

Very nice. The silver is nice also. I too wish you luck in selling every piece you take with you. Joel