JLSleather

Yup, when it's yer story, you gitta tell it however ya like

Yup, and that would make a difference fer sher. And that little "block" is a plus any wayz ya cut it. Long as a fella don't git out the truck without undoin it. Getting up would be one of those times most likely to catch it on something in the velcro. When I said "fall", I didn't mean necessarily the holster was going with it. I think there's another way, but was almost hopin' somebody would pipe in with it by now ....

true, but he did say My cat peed on $300 worth

just a note.... there are more, but this is the first batch (also have a shield 9, sig p320,.. not sure what all just yet)

Now THAT is a very clear / concise plan. I don't know if it will work or not, but it's a clear plan that you can take up or not. My only add would be... what do you figure your time is worth? Say you're time is worth $15/hr (which is CHEAP - burger guys get this much). So, how many hours does a guy put in a $300 piece of leather? 5 hours? So you put in $75 to save $300. IF it works. If it doesn't work, then you're out the leather AND 5 hours of your time ... So, decision time.

Can't imagine any circumstance where I'd bother. Pitch the leather. COULD it have been saved? Maybe. But how many hours of time is one piece of cow worth? I mean, if a guy had no real skills with the leather, then odds arent good that the leather gets saved. And if a guy DOES have skills with leather, then probably more beneficial to just concentrate the effort on a fresh piece. WHAT leather is it? Top of the line Hermann Oak? HOW MUCH leather we talking about? $300 is like a side and a half? AND, WHAT are you MAKING with this leather? Might be able to help ease the pain a bit depending on your responses to those questions. But don't let me persuade you- you do you, as they say

Ring's blue guns, 5 in this batch for $150, I'll pay the shipping. S/W Bodyguard (with laser) Sig P226 (railed) 1911 Springfield Micro .45 Colt Commander ( cocked/locked) Keltec 9mm

RIDICULOUS to pay good money for bad leather. The difference between a side of "C" (or worse) leather and A grade is like $20 (im talkng holster leather since that's what you stated you were making). The leather world has become BURIED in retailers with pretty stories about why you should buy their CRAP and thank them for supplying it. Stick to Hermann Oak or Wickett-Craig leather. If you don't want to store / stock 10 or more sides (as H.O. requires), you can and should call Cheryl at Goliger Leather, and she'll sell you individual sides. Very solid, very clean Hermann Oak leather. Costs me a bit more because of shipping from CA, but allows me to get a side or two of a weight I wouldn't ordinarily stock. Just FYI... Hermann Oak FROM Hermann Oak is $7.81 per foot. I buy backs (sides with belly removed) and that's currently $9.26. Not $10...Not $12....Not $15... like you see from some of these "retailers". Anybody selling you a PIECE of $8/ft leather for $12-15 per foot is NOT doing you a favor. Shouldn't be necessary to say that, and yet these days .... http://www.hermannoakleather.com/products-and-pricing/strap How much do you pay for stories? Cuz I can talk ALL DAY LONG if I'm getting paid for it.

Nope. No. That second one is a nice lookin little rig, to be sure. Looks purdy solid, too But, either of those guns, if you hold it out at arms length, then let go of it, does it FALL? Of course it does. Anything does. Even the paper pattern for it does. Everything does. That in mind, looking at the last pic above... (and that's also a nice lookin' belt by the way) ... if that is WORN instead of laying on the weeds, and that velco is "open", WHERE does the holster go? Does it stay upright like that (that's rhetorical and deliberately silly - it DOES NOT stay in that position, except perhaps when brand new and empty).

for what gun?

You CANNOT accidentally "over" wet it. CANNOT be "too" wet. Now, it doesn't need to be DRIPPING and SOAKED, but if it got that way it WONT HURT ANYTHING. Gonna take a bit longer to dry, but no harm done! I've made a lot of holsters and done a lot of tooling, and I can tell you my holsters ARE DEFINITELY WETTER than my tooling leather (except holsters which are tooled). Chuck has posted some nice lookin' rigs, so if he does it a different way is just evidence that theys more'n one way skin a cow. Seriously, I get a big bowl of clean warm water. Drop the holster right in it, completely submerged. Wait. Longer than a few seconds. If you have to potty, now is a good time Or not. Honestly, I probably did "time" it, but would have been so long ago I just go by how it feels now.

that's going to depend on your location 'n' humidity 'n' stuff. Up here in Iowa, I WET a holster, good bit of warm water. mold a holster, do whatever initial shaping, set it off to the side. Maybe in an hour I'll check it, do some further detailing .. and hopefully at that point it's set up enough to pull the gun/mold. then set it in front of a fan (at room temp) and let it sit, usually overnight before I touch it again, though that's because I'm not working, not because the leather isnt' ready.

certainly makes a difference how far back it's worn - further back usually more angle is more natural position for the wrist. but the angle of the holster doesn't change, just the angle of the forearm

that's not a bad start, just wondering about the angle -- that pretty comfortable for you?

no different - just the kydex gets heated and the leather gets wet .. otherwise same animal

Over on y-tube (pronounced WHY TUBE) just type in "wet form leather holster" or "vacuum form leather holster". You'll find some there. Clearly, I need to set aside some time to show this clearly -- so that there's a video showing this but involving some TESTOSTERONE ... you know, like a GUY could do it. I have a bag... see if I can find a pump similar to the one always gits talked about ... Meanwhile, many people tell me they use a regular "food saver" system (and I believe 'em - no reason that wouldn't work). Only need a bag about 12" across for the vast majority of holsters (sure enough, soon as I say "all", somebody will show up with a 10" barrel on a cannon ) 1) you don't need a vacuum bag - a bajillion holsters are made without that 2) IF you use a vacuum, you can use a "dummy" gun OR your actual (unloaded) pistol - make no difference. Be sure to cover any exposed sharp points that might puncture the bag

I recommend using a thinner leather and line em. In fact, line 'em with some 1/16" thick CORK, glued and sewn on. The leather will STILL distort, but the cork with pull it and keep it flat (and also keep it from sliding on the table or counter).

As a rule, I like Sam's holsters. But this was just a bad design... if you don't know why... make one and you'll see

That's NOT velcro, right? Some dummy putting out holsters fer Bond Arms came up with something very similar to this... had a guy wanted one for his SnakeSlayer, sent me a pic of the one he got from BA. I took one look at it, and thought "what keeps that from flopping out on the ground when it's bumped?". And sure enough, his wife said that's EXACTLY what happened. Gun just DROPPED on the ground. I would rather see it fully sewn down (like as in have to undo your belt to put it on) than that CRUD design they came up with. Mind you, it didn't LOOK hideous, it was just a bad design idea. These little boogers, the safety strap IS a plus, and color is nice. Still, wondering why you decided NOT to sew along the bottom edge where shown?

Okay, I admit it (and I'm sure I'm the only one) ... I just GOOGLED "cart buckle" and I'm STILL not sure that that means

Yup, Yup, and YUP. SO MANY people love to put that cheap (easy to apply) acrylic junk on leather.... BRAG about how "resistant" or "water proof" or "repellant" it is... and never mention (if they even realize) that it prevents the penetration of conditioners as well (which, for those who still don't get it, would be BAD). I recommend one product over others I have tried, and I admit I have NOT tried them ALL. That old fishin' question applies here as well -- Q: What is the best lure for walleyes in deep water? A: The ONE YOU WILL USE.

THere are a number of "commercial" products, each with its' own accompanying line of bull intended to sell it to you. I personally do not put ANYTHING on the flesh side of unlined holsters. Depending on if you're one of those guys who puts his gun away IN A LEATHER HOLSTER and DRIPPING gun oil, that might be a consideration ... but you shouldn't be doing either of those things, so not a problem.

That's quite a project! Look forward to seeing it

Depending on what I'm working on, I get this sometimes. If I'm molding leather, and doing the cooking, and helping at the church.. somewhere in there i can wash my hands so much I basically flush out all the oil in the skin... and ... dropsies. I helped put new rafters on a building a while back.. repeatedly told the guy under me might want to find another place to stand, since sometimes I drop stuff. Guessing a 22 oz hammer from 30 feet above is a game changer

Welcome, but maybe I should clarify that I dont' think THIS holster would have an issue -- it's "pretty" high on the gun, and the double layer certainly adds some rigidity. Clarifying.. I LIKE this holster