JLSleather

without airbrush -- I haven't watched the whole thing, so no endorsement here .. just FYI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3t4E2ciGg30 OR you can use a pre-fabbed "preval" sprayer attached right to a 4 oz bottle of dye I've never tried these, but they've been around a LONG time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcrhorxYhmI WITH airbrush - This one I have watched ... and semi- approve. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMVHrTPf1AQ&t=14s

Scales that small and that "tight", I would have guessed some type of lizard (which I consider a PLUS, it doesn't "flake" like most snake does).

what's the question -- what finish to use? I use tan-kote on most carved bags - have for years. there's a "bag-kote" as well, though I have not personally used it and don't know just what the difference is (if any). These "bags" were done with tan-kote (after dyes and a light neatsfoot). Satin finish, little to no glare and remains flexible. The pics aren't to scale... the binders were actually a bit larger than the handbag. This bag was DYED ONLY (no tooling) with an old STohlman design, and the binders were FULL TOOLED, dyed (Fiebings), buffed, then tan-kote. But you shouldn't be getting stain "rubbing off", and I wouldn't be trying to prevent it with any finish. BUFF the color until it's no longer "rubbing off" BEFORE applying any finish. WOrth mentioning, you might want to go pick up some tan-kote if you decide to use it. If it sits on a UPS truck today it will FREEZE and be RUINED - no good once it freezes.

I'm not a travel guy. Been on both coasts, the gulf, and canada -- and don't really know WHY I went to any of that

yeah, local pick up is preferred - I want a guy to RUN the machine so he / she knows there's NOTHING wrong with it before buying. Much of it - including the table - has NEVER BEEN USED. Located in Iowa (sorry, I thought location was already on here)

This is TRUE.. if you're using resist/antique, do the oil BEFORE that. I didn't include it because i don't use antique but maybe once every other year when somebody SPECIFICALLY WANTS it and writes a big check

This is what I do - always. If you forgot, and stitched it already, adding oil later is not a problem, but I would keep it off the thread (not hard as it sounds). Light or dark, my tooled belts don't get out without being oiled. If the oil is darkening your leather, I assume you're applying it too heavy, using too much. But it may discolor thread, depending on the thread used. By way of disclaimer, I've never used the dye you're referring to, so I have no idea what that stuff does. I use Fiebing's spirit dyes most all the time, an infrequently Angelus dyes. To be clear, my tooled belts are tooled, dyed, oiled, treated with whatever "top coat" used (I use tan-kote, resolene, saddle-lac, and one other... though not together - pick one per project) lined (including inlays if used), and sewn together T

Cobra 4 premium plus I upgraded to "drop down" edge guide. All attachments, and still have the original packaging and the flat top add-on table has never been out of the bubble wrap. Try it before you buy it. Retails at $3500 plus shipping - this one you can test and buy -- for $3000 I'll throw in the matching burnisher! https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-mp-burnisher/ Package retails today at about $4100. Bring LOTS of cash -- I have a good bit of veg tanned leather you could pick up VERY reasonable More pics available,

this is SOLD (but see my other dies 'n' stuff available)

oh, sorry -- this is EIGHT oz cowhide.

Single die. I used multiple "stiffener panels" on this, so no die for that. This quickly cuts the main body of the holster. Makes holster shown (for example only and not included). $100 INCLUDES shipping and pattern.

These dies make the holsters shown for SW shield 9/40 and the Glock 43 (with different stitch patterns).

These guns are SOLD.

S/W Model 19 (K frame) S/W Hammerless J frame S/W 686 L Frame (4" barrel) $165 INCLUDES shipping in the US. Buy them with the tooling leather belts straps and save $15

In case somebody else missed it, these are INCH AND A HALF wide

I have SEVEN of these, very light natural color. 6 are over 60", one is just over 50". You'll see theres a spot on two (seee #2,3) of them, which I THINK is neatsfoot (dye should cover easily, or cut off at just over 50"). ALL for one low price -- $65 INCLUDES shipping within the US

sold

Looks NICE (as usual)

well, i don't mean 50/50s .. I mean curved PAST flat. A board would prevent getting the right "wrap around"

tech-tips is an EXCELLENT reference. the others are merely copying what is clearly shown there. like 60 years old, and yet to be improved on. Very good very clear explanation of the tools and the "where and why" of using them.

Call Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing. He'll git ya what ya need, help you nail down what is going to best fit what you're wanting to do. And he's much closer to you, so shipping is going to be reduced as well. 866-362-7397 https://www.tolindsewmach.com/

Thass sum purdy good learnin's fer ya rot cheer Not exactly the way I do it, but close. NOTE that you don't need a "closure" for your bag... if you fold it over and set a light weight on it it will work - in fact i sometimes just fold it over and hold for a second, since once it creates a vaccuum theres no need to hold it any more. I also do not use a cutting board - or anything - along with the process. My holsters are already measured, cut, sewn together before they go in the bag, and they are NOT flat... they are actually CURVED BEYOND FLAT, so a board would be in the way of the form. STILL -- this is pretty good, CLEAR INSTRUCTION.

Looks like a SOLID holster

I think you got the link wrong. Says cutesy, but links to fakebook.

LOVE the color, Tim!