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JLSleather

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Everything posted by JLSleather

  1. Yeah, I suggested 2 belt loops behind the mags INSTEAD OF the slots outside the mags, since 4 mags for that gun would wrap about 1/3 the way around me He didn't like that idea.. aint sure why.
  2. Yeah, tha's like an 8" barrel... er 8 ana half? My buddy got a super redhawk, made him a belt holster for it but my I couldn't wear it that way ... too hard on my KNEE
  3. Thanks Yeah, I think he did say something about competitions. I suggested since I already made this one, he might just want to go with another one just like it. 4-mag made in this style would be PURDY WIDE. Might have to post the pattern fer a few bucks ...
  4. Fully lined, worked great. Customer got a bit "distorted" when I told him I wouldn't make him one for FOUR mags ?@!
  5. I need a friend come along hepp me carry that thing
  6. Reviving this one... found these in a box in a dark corner... didn't realize they wuz still here! All together for $80 .... and we pay half the shipping (we'll split it with ya). Approximately 23-24 square feet (4 pieces). It's H.O. "A" grade, but it is bellies. Still, about $3/foot ...
  7. https://www.springfieldleather.com/Dye-Reducer-32oz
  8. idunno ... yet.
  9. SOLD (but i'll box up some more directly )
  10. Save some headaches and a LOT of time - order the pre-dyed leather if its' available in the shades you want. Dyeing it yourself "works", but you're likely going to end up with inconsistent shades (important for those who order 10 or 20 of something and want them to match). PLUS - you'll be out the time to order the dyes, to mix the shades, dip the parts, wait for drying and have the ROOM to dry that many parts, while still having space to work on something else while those are drying. Seriously, if you were making "one of" products, then dye it yourself and store less inventory. But if you're doing "50-100" pieces, buying the leather already dyed is a no-brainer. We've ordered drum dyed black for a long time... since it's SO popular in formed holsters. Yes, I order natural leather- mostly for projects getting tooled - and a few other colors I keep a bit of. But around here, an order of 6 or 8 would be about as big as it normally gets (infrequently goes outside of that). Wickett-Craig sells drum dyed skirting without a 20-side minimum, if that's your only concern. But if you're making HUNDREDS of pieces and like H.O. leather, I'd suggest just bite the bullet and get the 20. The TIME and LABOR you save will astonish you.
  11. OOOPS... this aint fit in a priority box. Thassa 15" ruler, so .... maybe bump up to $18.50? I'll toss this in a box and gitter weighed.. pay the shippin an' it's yern. Most pieces big enough for a knife sheath, some would make a holster .... I won't cut anything unless it don't fit in the box. Most is 7/8 oz, but there's a bit of 5/6 and a tad of 3/4. Okay.. this FILLS a box 16" x 12" x 7
  12. SHOOT .. shoulda been checkin round here! Got a small bit ready to get out the way.... I'll make it fit in a priority box $18 for all this (other words, you pay the shipping -- the leather is free )
  13. Never been a huge fan o the rough out, but you almost change my mind -- that looks NICE
  14. Most any craft store will have ribbon in various widths and colors. Or if a guy uses leather lace, you could use that as well (though if you mark mulitiple pages like I do, that might create enough bulk to not be good for your book binding). I have been known to buy these ... though a guy with a scrap of leather and some ribbon could easily make them from "scraps" . Note similar stuff is available with adhesive, like peel and stick to the inside of the binding. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LG9TYHX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Some folk is determined to use it... so ... say lah vee ...
  15. Assa nice color. Maybe a little smoother in the matting around the cross (probably the angle and the glare making it show up as much), and then there's that spot on the back panel. Oh, wait... that's a spot of something on my screen Seriously, I like it.
  16. Keeping the retailer above water IS NOT your responsibility. I get SO tired of retailers running brick 'n' mortar stores who think that I should find it reasonable to pay 20, 30, 40 percent more for something so that THEY can justify their existence. I do not. If you give me a better deal, I'll shop with you. Better deal might be better product, or same product at better price, or same product and same price but quicker delivery, for example. If you want 25% more, TELL ME WHY I should pay it. Haven't asked in a while, but for a long time H.O. had a minimum order of 10 sides. This is not a large amount of leather. I thought ordering 10 or 15 sides would be a good bit until I talked to people buying 50 at a time. GREAT leather is just over $8 per foot. Sadly, most of the 'retailers' are selling LOWER GRADE leather (though they don't often admit it) and marking up 50% AND MORE. At $12 per foot, it should come with the beef STILL IN IT. I have suggested FOR YEARS that if you use small pieces or if you only get to do leather on weekends, for instance, that you get 2 or 3 others who do the same and POOL your money. Got other leather crafters within 50 miles or so? SPLIT an order of 10 sides with another guy, or two, or three. I buy BACKS (belly removed).. usually run about $180 each after shipping for the best grade. An order of 10 for $1800-ish. SO if you got a couple other guys buy a couple sides each, maybe easier to swallow. Sadly, not too many interested in that around these parts. A few years ago I was moving, and offered to sell some backs AT COST. Just saves a little room on the truck.. didn't really matter. Wasn't going to take a loss on it, but thought it would be a good chance for some who were interested to see what the GOOD stuff is supposed to look and feel like. I think ONE person wanted ONE piece (or maybe it was 2?). Another option ... Wickett-Craig sells leather by the side (or back, or bend). They will sell individual sides, in natural or pre-dyed colors (yes, the dyed leather can be stamped/tooled). I've used a good bit of W/C leather, the vast majority of it quite good. If you're TOOLING leather, it is DIFFERENT but not better or worse... a bit different feel, but tools very well and retains its shape when formed. There are "genuine" leather, "bonded" leather, "corrected grain" leather, ... blahblah.... it goes on forever. It's confusing because it's MEANT TO BE confusing.
  17. looks like ya got a ways ta go, but lookin' good so far
  18. YOU tell US. Try on your rig, see how it feels. Personally think 15 is enough on longer barrel lengths -- sometimes more like 20 with shorter barrels.
  19. I wouldn't say those tools are the same, but in the end they're both for "decorating" the leather. Either can create the illusion of "roundness' and depth -which is the point. Beyond that, part of the idea is texture, and that may be where those tools vary the most. Chuck's correct, though... just do it how YOU like it. Bob Ross comes to mind ... the canvas is "your world"... so might put a tree right here ... 40 years ago, when "craftaid" templates were quite popular, the template usually came with a picture that showed the tools used and where they were used on that carving. Many of them I used AS SHOWN, since i was trying to learn how to carve leather and wanted to be able to compare what I did to the picture. Probably not necessary, but it did help ME ... FWIW. Probably where i got the idea to do this type of thing when asked.
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