JLSleather

Lace - all leather several spools of 3/32" - 2 black 1 brown 1 spool 3/16" buckstitch lace, black 2 partials latigo lace, 1/8" and 1/4" ALL for $30 (if I remember right, the buckstitch roll was more than that on its own)

Tough to get a good photo without setting it up better -- laying on the floor on a white board, this is precut leather for 3 holsters, 5 mag pouches, and a set of 6 coasters (w/c dark brown english bridle). INSANELY clean Hermann Oak A grade holster leather makes 2 "curved pancake" holsters and an "avenger" holster for the S/W shield 9, RH. Mag pouches include 2 large and 3 small -- so think 1911, Glock 17, Sig 226 for larger versus shield 380, sig 238, P938, pm9, lcp, etc... $50 gets it ALL (this is about 4 sq feet of A grade stuff, with NO waste)

Alphabet sets. All complete with little wear, includes handles. CLICK photo to enlarge. About half of retail. $10 ships one set or all! 1" alphabet ........ $25 alphabet ..... $20 1/2" alphabet ..... $16 1/2" numbers ..... $10 each set (2 sets of these, apparently I needed 2 5's) 1/4" alphabet ..... $10

to clear out before vacation. Leather, pre-cut parts, strips, alphabet sets, dummy guns, will likely be some small hand tools, and even a couple of HF presses and some dyes 'n' such if you're local (I can't be bothered to ship those things). Get a good deal here, or it goes on the wife's sale coming up. Photos to begin shortly ...

Certainly easier to go on about them if the gun is in there Still, you dint' fergit SO much - this aint "bad". If you HAVE to have something I DONT like, it would be those marks from the sewing machine foot (somewhere around here is a quick clip I did on how to eliminate that entirely). Got a booger in the stitch on the lighter one is pretty obvious, but the colors look good

https://www.superiorthreads.com/industrial-threads

It stabilizes the spine by helping to brace the core muscles (most notably transversus abdominus). Idea is if your core is contracted the spine and vitals are protected. Yeah, that's what i said. And I'm saying that 10-12 oz leather is MORE than sufficient to do that. Anything beyond that - is either going with the crowd (ie you get what you perceive "everybody else" has) or just outright ego driven (you tell yourself you're far stronger than you actually are). The idea that ANYBODY needs 2 layers of skirting leather is ridiculous. But, feel free... show us that guy who can put on a 12 oz leather belt, then BLOW IT OUT flexing his abs Yup - collects all manner of stuff. Yeah, it can be cleaned, but WHY bother when you could use smooth leather which wipes off, or better yet BRIDLE leather that repels sweat (long as you dont need it tooled). I've seen quite a few LATIGO belts too.

Alex made mine, too. Very nice work. If I wanted a stick figure, I'd carve it in with a swivel knife

This is old stuff, but still relevant. Unless you're wanting something custom, just buy a belt off the rack. You can't make them anywhere near the cost that you can buy them.. As a rule, belts are sold 10 mm and 13mm thick. This is more tradition than necessity. Anybody thinks he/she needs a belt that heavy to retain your abs has a serious ego problem. Oh, I did mention that the belt is for your ABS, right? No time for the anatomy lessons - accept that or don't. I once had a guy tell me he needs his belt 1/2" thick. I said you might WANT a belt that thick, and I'll make it that way if you like, but you do NOT NEED that much bulk. Gave him a 9 oz strap, told him if you can stretch or bow that by contracting / flexing your core, I'll kiss your butt in the middle of main street, and you can bring a camera. More of a personal choice, I prefer NOT to use suede. There are many "reasons" given for using suede - all over the internet and in and around gyms where most do more talking than working. Seems the TRUE reason for using it is that suede hides leather flaws, covers up low grade veg tan used underneath, and can be ordered already dyed in many colors. Hence Amazon is full of belts with ugly leather covered with cheap suede leather, stitch thrown at it and sold for $25 (delivered) which work as well as any.

YES! If you were thinking about "trying" something, here would be the place to do it. If it doesn't work, well you were thinking of starting fresh anyway. One more lesson, which this time is FREE. Is that a shield 9? Not sure from the angle. Just sayin'.. if you wuz gonna start again, ask about a pattern fer a shield holster (first one free ).

That's pretty well said. Holster isn't a major investment of leather, so not a huge loss. I only comment to wonder out loud what is going on with your snap ...

Got 70ish for a couple days.. now more like 40 again. Got some pesky suckas flyin round here.. can't seem to catch em to get a good shot. Guessin' they're large hawks, but might be small eagles. Every time try to get a pic, they spot the laser and they GONE. And this pic is from over a year ago.. STILL have no idea what this is.. I've only ever seen THIS ONE.... not before OR since.

Fast and more than reasonable. Short version, all 5 shipped in the US for $165. Glock 30 SA XD-E 3.3" SW Bodyguard (with int laser) 1911 A1 (5" full) SW M&P .40c

I like it Not many holsters out there for this little varmint shooter, and the ones I've seen.. well - let's just leave it at not many out there This looks nice.

Yeah, they seem to try to discourage direct sales. Still, it's an option if you don't use em up. $15 charge ONCE is so neglible I wouldn't even consider it. cost that much to travel to tandy.

I'm not a hollow ground blade guy myself, but BOUT TIME somebody mentioned THE LEATHER. Good tools are nice, but no tool will help if you got crap leather. Get the good stuff. THen if you want to carve, I would recommend checking out the old craftools - many on Ebay, prolly on Amazon too. I've ordered some nice stuff from these guys. I think my tooling reaches the "okay" level.

I wouldn't consider that a good investment. This type of knife (google FRISKET KNIFE - LOTS of styles and variations with differnt type blades) will have a slower response to turns you will surrender some control which will be more obvious the more detailed the design is. You're DRAGGING the blade instead of actually STEERING the blade. Could you use this in leather? Sure - with some practice you could use a butter knife you sharpened. Not for me. I use a much skinnier knife for making .... stuff, if you want the short version. Mine has replaceable blades, very fine and always sharp. And the barrel is much smaller diameter.. more like an x-acto handle (cept, it's not). Much better visibility.

Do the heaviest molding with the leather VERY wet. As it dries on the surface, tooling will cause darker "burnishing' (if you do it wet, it will not later darken just because the leather is drying).

There are a lot of companies these days who will make you a cutter in about any shape you care to lay out. Some call it a die, some say "punch", whatever. Since you mention "quick", with a little thought, you could lay out something to cut half a dozen at a time. But I'm not into speed or anybody who uses "bro", so I'll step off this one now.

Have you contacted Fiebings?

I've use both the "reg" barge and the TF barge. Both work well - no worries. The TF was still 'smellier' than I expected.

Overall, I like it. I don't mind the "accidental" color, and I DO like the stitching all the way around. Looks like it sits in there nice like, and leaves plenty o room fer grabbin'. Can't really say about the "swell" behind the guard... maybe it makes the thing more stable? Only thing, I likely woulda dun the belt slot WIDER... little more bearing surface. But, this is a trade - off with revolvers... too narrow, it's "floppy", too wide (in relation to the cylinder" and it wants to bind (though it pulls the butt in real nice). And not a "for" or "against" thing, I personally don't care for snake on holsters at all. Or belts. I've done it, but it wasn't my choice.

You got that lookin' purdy sweet for a "just a basket weave" ... REAL nice!

I have applied a lining over the "back end" of snaps but do not recommend it. As a rule, the snap will wear out long before the leather does, and getting the worn out snap OUT of the still usable leather goods S U C K S (in lay terms ). Instead, ... well - other stuff.