JLSleather

I use 7/8 lined with 3/4. Need a couple? Drop a line and we'll see what I got and a price. Simple. H.O. A/B grade.

I have found some VERY nice leather at Tandy stores. Past few years, it's been hit or miss, luck of the draw kind of thing. I thought it was maybe what I said at that manager (who's gone now) but it's not just that one store Can't remember if it was the "Oak leaf" or the "live oak" brand, but I know in the Iowa store its on the back east wall Anyway, these days I want to SEE before I buy. That said, I have also purchased "hermann oak" from Weaver Leather and Springfield Leather got some leather that would be acceptable for a doormat for people to wipe their feet on, and that's about all it was good for. SLC also has sent me some doable leather, though you should order ahead of schedule, as you wont want to assume what you're getting. I'll let them tell you WHY that is, should they care to. Weaver sent me leather so bad I never gave them a chance to send me a second batch. Seriously, I think many of these "retailers" are RELYING ON the new guy not knowing the difference, and since i had never ordered there before, they likely assumed that I was 'the new guy'. If you're ordering Hermann Oak Leather, I can't stress enough - get it FROM HERMANN OAK LEATHER. Next best option, if you only need 1 or 2 sides, call Cheryl or Carlos at Goliger Leather. A bit more money than you'd pay per foot from the source, but when they say it's GRADE A, it really is... not some bottom shelf stuff that they're passing off for something more than it is. Costs me a bit more in freight (ships from CA) but always worth the extra two bits. Call Cheryl, tell her Jeff sent ya. She'll say "jeff who?" but she'll send you good leather

never had a problem sewing after curved. by hand, that's what hand sewin' is fer and simple to sew on a cylinder arm machine, though a flat bed would be harder (I have been known to put the outside through a flatbed to "poke" the holes in the outer layer, then line, then 'chase' the holes with an awl through the inner layer. I don't leave it NOT sewn. To be clear, then, I'm talking about doing your toolin', ... whatever. Then gluing that over the main body, sew with about maybe a 105°- 135° bend in it. Shape as you line, so u got basically a U shape.. might be what.. 1 1/2" - 2" gap between the back end? Sew between the stitch lines, top 'n'' bottom. You seen my patterns, so that should make sense enough without further gabbin'. Finish as any other ... (I do scuff the lining a bit to make the glue bite a bit better - just scribe a line and stay outside that with your 'scuffer'.)

Double 5/6 would be too heavy for me, even worse with the "reinf" panel / belt piece. Too much. You know, each his own. But I have done double 4/5, and also 4/5 lined with 3/4. Cut the outside from the pattern, then put the liner in on a curve. Jim Simmons covered this very well in the holster section - no need to reinvent that wheel.

I think the "wrap around" adds to the look -- I wouldn't change it.

I have some from Cooks, some from others. The cook's molds I have received have been... some better than others. High detail means nothing if the size isn't right. If I could only use ONE, I like MultiMold guns (though I do have quite a few Rings which are quite good) To be clear, I have received accurate molds from a number of sources, and I have also received unacceptable molds from each of those same companies.

That's not JUST ebay. Glock is pretty determined about their name. You are not allowed to say "glock 17 holster", but you can say "MADE FOR glock 17" or "FITS glock 17". They simply ask that you make it clear that the holster you provide is NOT A GLOCK PRODUCT. Personally, I don't blame them. I've seen SO many holsters that were JUNK.. I wouldnt want somebody thinking I made that, and thereby thinking they shouldnt buy MY products because they might get THAT same type of JUNK. If you sell holsters and call them "glock xx holster"... assume that they just haven't got around to you YET. Glock has A LOT of lawyers.

I would agree that you shouldn't' take on jobs that exceed your skill level. I have not personally had anybody not like what I sent them. No matter, I'll conclude that nobody here is interested in that. Cost me nothing to NOT refer somebody

"custom leather holster" is his term .. request today looking for "first generation Ruger LCP w/lasermax centerfire. looking for owb/iwb combo" I'm ducking out - vacation is vacation. if you make holsters and want the job, respond in next couple hours with where to refer him.

New guys is PREFERRED method Send me a message and i'll gitter in a couple hours - gotta run out fer a bit.

holster die and billet die are sold

idunno... I'm gitin purdy good at ignoring the phone these days What were you interested in? I been checkin here least a couple times a day.

S/W bodyguard .380 SA XD-M .40 3.8" 1911 A-1 5" $100 gets em ALL

Sharp, ready to use. Cuts a 4" square coaster in one hit. Makes a set of 6 in a couple minutes. $40 Billet die $40 Cuts 3/4" wide billet end for ranger belts, case straps, etc. Same die used to cut both ends, guarantees a match, If this isn't something you understand, an example should fix that easy enough. Get em BOTH shipped for $100 even.

2 presses, some dies (clicker dies, not the liquids), hand tools I'm gonna "bulk" and offer as a package... CHEAP but somebody will want to sharpen some of the edgers, ... Strips and straps, ... vacation coming up soon .. already refunded ALL pending orders and been turning down requests... so.. ALL IN at this point teh cobra 4 stitcher I'd trade for a smaller machine... not sure where i'm headed with that as yet, though apparently the church will get some guitar straps before I'm excused completely 2 part die set, makes RIGHT HAND avenger style holster for either the Glock 43 (shown below) or the S/W shield 9/40. Will include a pattern for one of those pistols. BOTH parts PLUS the holster pattern fer $115 shipped in the U.S. . Note this cuts the entire holster and belt loop, but does not cut the rear slot (that is cut later the way I do it).

That's a very nice lookin' belt I always recommend PAY NO ATTENTION to the "material times .. sumthin... plus gas mileage .... overhead .. lease fee.. per hour..." people. There is no "formula". I see very nice looking belts for sale at $400, and I also see very nice looking belts for sale at $55. Both good leather, both well done ... so WHAT is the difference? TIP: If you can't TELL the difference, then why would you PAY MORE?@! I also pay no attention to names. Like... "this belt was made by Elvis" might mean something, because some dummy might well pay more for it for that reason. But that would only be true in extreme cases, and nobody on this site would be such a case. STILL, your belt is overall good looking, clearly involved some planning in the making, and except for the very tip, the stitching is quite good (that's another day). I'm not big on "well it's hand stamped". Again, here's the thing.. one guy buys stamps, lays out the belt, meticulously tries to line up every impression so their all consistent spacing and depth. Does a nice job. Other guy buys an embossing roll, runs the SAME good leather through the machine in about 30 seconds, and EVERY IMPRESSION is the same consistent spacing and depth. So, if the belts are made with the SAME LEATHER and LOOK THE SAME, then I would not personally pay more because some guy killed a whole day stamping it. The POINT of "handmade" is that it should be BETTER than the machine made... more attention to detail. If it's not BETTER, then "handmade" was pointless. ALL THAT SAID... I like that belt, and would not hesitate to pay $100 for one like that (assuming the quality is as good as it looks from here). But not beyond that. If a guy wants MORE money, then he/she almost needs to do something NOT done by "everybody" else. You know, if what you do is something ANYBODY can do, don't be surprised when anybody DOES. I don't price "per inch" actually, nor "per time period", though I do get more for a 44" belt than for a 34" belt. The amount of leather isn't even worth calculating, but the time involved can be significant when TOOLED. So, I recommend a "base" price in mind... and then add a bit or subtract a bit per case. Basket stamp is THREE stamps most of the time - border, basket, scallop. Say it takes me 2 hours to cut a strap, set up, get the tools out, 'case' the strap, trim the tip, stamp, set to the side .... NOW, if I put all that stuff away, it will take roughly that same period on teh next one. But if I cut FIVE straps while I got the hide and the cutter out, and then trip all the tips, then do all the stamping (set one to the side, stamp the next, ...) and then leave them long and undyed... I might get them down to an hour each. So, if I take TWO hours, or I take ONE hour, is one belt "worth more" than the other, with leather from the same hide, with the same tools, by the same guy? Thus, formulas mean nothing. But the wrench in the works is that guy making that SAME belt with a machine.... SAME LEATHER, SAME SHAPE, SAME QUALITY, but done in 27 MINUTES. Worth less, more, the same? I don't recommend this. Your belt looks very nice and appears to be quite solid. SOME folks really do put out CRAP, and many of them have the NERVE to sell it anyway. SO THIS BELT absolutely should be sold, putting money in your pocket. Just because you're getting paid doesn't mean you cant STILL IMPROVE as you go ...

Cutesy is all "global" and "feely" - always has been. These days, pastors are arrested for saying marriage is between a man and a woman, and people have careers ended for refusing to call some guy "she". ALL of that is insane, but i still AGREE with their right to allow OR NOT ALLOW the sale of any and all goods on THEIR site.

There ya go Looks like ya got it figgered. And you at least sometimes "shade" before you 'bevel" (me, too). Not all of the Craftool / Tandy stamps I've seen have the same angle, but I certainly have seen some that were too "flat" for general beveling (though, there's a place for that too).

pre-cut leather is SOLD

Alphabet sets is SOLD

Can we set some? Like to see the old versus the new, but willing to settle for just the new

This one got past me - musta been busy that day. Anyway - this is a NICE belt! Good lookin' leather is a must first step, but I'm a booger for CONSISTENT stitchin' - seriously, irregularity is like fingernails on a chalk board. With practice, you could be as OCD as me Really, other folk could take note here ... Lookin' CLOSE, I don't think the stitchin' is FLAWLESS, but it's QUITE nice. I particularly like the way you've "balanced" the backstitch on the billets ... [ for those don't know what i'm on about, note the same double stitching on the start and stop of the billet threads - if you do it, many won't notice, but if you DONT do it, sticks out like a sore thumb ] I still punch a slot in the main belt to push the billet through on the buckle end - personal preference, though I understand there are arguments to be made for both ways. Again ~~ NICE BELT.

Uh, no -- presses are from Harbor Freight, the 20 ton floor press and a 6 ton table model. HF is more than reasonable and they're everywhere - so I'll let these go reasonable but they're already not bad so I would make the trip here if thats ALL a guy wanted. Still, a guy picking up presses could get a crazy DEAL on some Wickett/Craig leather The table model is about 30" tall and inside measurement about 10 1/12". 6 ton bottle. The dummy guns are mostly Rings, pretty standard stuff (though I may do the site channel a bit different than some folk). $38 or 3/$100 Got a model you're looking for, lemme know

stamps - 9 fer $20 - yu pay the ship you prefer