JLSleather

I've done it both ways.

https://leathermachineco.com/ good luck

Yes. I often use 277 on holsters because the LOOK of the heavier thread is popular. But I sew a good bit of holsters (and other 'stuff') with 207. Lots o' folk say that 207 breaks too easily, to which I say - show me That said, looking at your example I do not like HOLES that large. This is another reason for using 277 thread, with a #24 needle ... I would prefer to use a #23 needle when sewing with 207, but for some reason #23 needles are tough to find for these machines.

all surfaces would need to be offset by the thickness of the leather (or close to it). How critical the difference would depend on what you're molding - with letters I'd think you'd want it pretty close.

I'm gonna say those look PURDY DURN GOOD for a guy who claims to NOT be a holster maker Either will work, though not exactly the same. Sometimes IS for cosmetics. Keep in mind that the pull on the holster from the belt is LINEAR ... resulting in an angled slot having less "even" tension but a parallel slot being farther from the weapon .. may be +/- to both.

SHINY - I LIKE IT (and I'm not usually big on snake). My only "thing" was I mighta beefed up the back "skirt" panel, but sounds like you got that comin' up

Meanwhile, some folks might like that info, so .... AvengerLayout.pdf IWBa.pdf PancakeLayout.pdf Holster_Theory.pdf DoubleMag_Layout.pdf

That's tough to do right now But I might fix it one day ...

Looks nice! Great color.

I would love to say DONT do that "vacuum bag" look .. but I find I actually don't mind it Other hand, if you want to do away with the "bag" look without altering the process, just place the holster inside a piece of cowhide folded around it with grain side IN toward the holster/gun (rough side out, touching the bag). You'll be transferring the grain of the leather, not the grain of the bag Not big on the rivets.. just don't like rivets at all and less on a holster (prolly just personal pref). If you're going to use rivets, put one under the trigger guard, to keep the rig from opening over time (or add a row of stitches there). In the end, though.. is this YOUR gun? Comfort and ease of use FOR THE USER are the end goal, so if it feels good FOR YOU, that's a win!

Overall, I LIKE this holster. If you're having an issue specifically with the thread, then it's a simple matter to RECESS the thread (on the inside). IF that's the issue, prollem solved. If on the other hand you're having similar issues with specific models, might be worth the effort to adjust design slightly to "flare" the top (much as one might with the so-called "western" rigs) and add a tensioner screw at the muzzle end to "suit" your own personal 'feel'.

no pics? a pic would clearly and quickly state which are duncan's, rings, etc. I don't "need" any, but might pic up a few just for patterning ...

There are SO MANY punches out there these days .... and some which claim to be the same size are not the same size. Best anybody can tell you is you'll need to find the one (or more) that lays out the way you like it. Alternately, you can mark the spacing and 'stab' the holes with an awl.

https://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Holsters-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214989 This book has instructions on thong lacing holsters, as well as a pattern for a Ruger single 6 and others. Invaluable information included - WELL worth the cost.

STICK with the self-taught!!! Seriously, folks can offer suggestions on various dyes, finishes, leather suppliers, etc... but in the end the ONLY way you will learn it is to DO IT. DONT waste your time and money on somebody ELSE'S "instruction" - use it for your OWN supplies / equipment. There are quite a few willing to "help" you for a fee. Most of them ... well... lemme just stick with STICK TO SELF-TAUGHT. Get some leather, and start making what you want to make.

Or a link?

I've long used a #11 x-acto to cut leather up to about 9 oz. I could see where you might not use it for 15 oz skirting, but I don't use 15 oz skirting ...

Great color, but one's backards

This. Exactly this. If I'm making a binder, cover, or flat goods, the exact weight isn't critical - I'm looking for firmness and look. If I'm making a case or other item that has to FIT something, I'm not worried about half an "ounce", but those times where it matters ... if it 'has to be' 8 oz thick, and your 8 isn't 8, then you might 'make' an 8 with a 5 oz that was a bit "heavy" and a 3 oz that was a bit "light" laminated together. I would not go this route. I have ordered leather from Weaver exactly ONCE - and not again since.

Thanks goes to Sam Andrews. I was going to make pretty much this exact video, but I found Sam had it covered so well that it was unnecessary to repeat, so I just point people to HIS video. Anybody duplicating this information is doing just that -- COPYING what has already been done very well.

Jim's PDF is pretty good -- I recommend it. Sam's short (and unlike most videos, TO THE POINT) video packs all the info into about 12 minutes (those hour and a half long marketing shows you see about "how to" make a holster are exactly what they appear to be... standard "I need attention" garbage). This is quite good and the principle is the same as Jim's PDF (above). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k ___________________________________ Those Bond guns can be a bit different than most others, being a break action thingie, but it does appear from the pics that your mold is quite small. FWIW, I have a design I'm fine tooning and the top of the holster (a bit like yours with the trigger guard) is about 185 mm across the top when laid flat - fits the ACTUAL BA snake slayer pretty good

I don't mind that bag at all call it practice if you like, but looks fine. Only thing I'da dun differnt, sew the handles down (I dont' like riveted straps)

Agreed ... they python is nice, but not a mold for the 29. SHOOT .. .I see my 29 mold has had the hammer busted off! Something ELSE to take care of ....

I ordered leather from them once. Will not do that again. I ordered more than one type of leather, so I could see a range of what they had. ALL was spongey and didn't dye well.

Ray's a good guy to work with. I think his daughter might be running the show now, mighta sent Ray fishin'. Talked at length with him couple times - that guy prolly fergot more than most will ever know.