JLSleather

Yeah, been there I thought maybe there was something I wasn't seeing! Thanks all the same.

I should have kept mine,too. I could afford both machines, but didn't think I could afford the addition on the shop!

On the other hand, I sold my 206RB-5, figured I'd need the extra space. Big mistake.. always coming across something where i coulda used that thing ONE more time

IS THERE such a thing as a splitter / skiver that WORKS for under $1,000? I swear if I have to sharpen one more thing that was supposedly NEW ....

Can you hear it already? People goin' round sayin' "Jeff said make it inch ana half longer". But that's not quite what i said

Is that flat in the back, or curved a bit? Either way, i'd wanna bring a buddy ta help me carry that thing

Math-a-lize it The theory is, that the OUTside of the jeans and the INSIDE of the belt would be almost the same, yes? So, say you're making a belt for a guy with a 38" waist (I mean, really IS 38, not just he SAYS 38). I'll use 38 cuz that seems to be most of the belts recently. The "issue" comes from measuring the OUTside of the belt, with the INside measurement. If I can side-track just a minute.... think of a pipe. You got a 4" pipe That's OUTside. If your wall thickness is 1/8", then the inside measures 3 3/4" across -- difference is 1/4" (so what, right?). But the measurement AROUND (like a belt) is C=πd. So the outside is 4*π = 12.57 and the inside is 3.75*π = 11.78 for a difference of a little over 3/4". A 3 3/4" is off by 3/4"(ish). Now, double the thickness of the pipe wall leather. The outside still 4", but the inside is 3.5" across, and measurement AROUND is 11", a difference of 1.57". Clearly, the thickness matters. Now, WHY we on about 4" pipes? Go back to that 38" guy. The INside measures 38", that's the number he got measuring around over his jeans. Short story, doing the math --if the belt you're making is 1/4" thick, then around the outside gonna be around 39.5". Marking the belt 38, you'd be short about an inch and a half, and his name in the back will be off by half of that (and half teh buckle length too if you aren't watching). So, 1 1/2" for a 1/4" thick belt. Narrower fellas (and some girls) might go with a thinner belt, and the error is less pronounced -- just so you know it makes a difference. IN THE END, simple enough to test this. Got a piece of that pipe? Or anything else that won't move on you.. soup can..whatever. Measure around the thing, and cut 2 pieces of leather THAT length. Wrap one around the pipe -- $4 says the INSIDE will touch and the outside WON'T. Now, wrap the second layer around the first.... you'll see what I mean quickly enough ...

Anybody ever made that thing on P18? I've had the book for years, and sometimes people ask me to make a specific holster from it -- STILL. But, somebody sent me a "pattern" for a K-frame that is the SPITTIN image of the one on P18, and I really don't see a K-frame goin IN that thing. Anybody?...

Honestly, unless you are going to mass-produce those, I don't know that it's worth teh trouble to sttch 'em. If you just need one or two, just call 'em at SLC and order the Chaylor inserts already done and ready to use There are a couple versions very close to what you show there. http://springfieldleather.com/36988/Interior%2CCheckWallet%2CCF%2CChoc/

The THICKNESS of the belt MATTERS. You can have a customer measure his walmart belt (often about 6-7 oz thickness), which eliminates the issue of the size on the tag on the jeans (I have "34" that I can't wear any more, AND I have "34" that would fall off if not for a belt). But that lined belt, or double thick belt, will NOT measure the same. Put their measurement on a 12 oz belt (8 oz lined with 4 oz) and you WILL be short. The amount varies with the size of the wearer (longer belts will be off by more). Now, munky 1 and munky 2 will tell you "add this much". Munky 3 will say "add more holes". And realistically, off by one hole is probably acceptable on a solid color belt, no ornamentation other than stitching. But put a name on there, or design, or conchos, etc. and the more your measurement is off, the more your designs will be off.

Not seeing how you did the one piece of leather. Loop is separate piece?

I been busy , cept fer a couple o ramblin, mindless (and sometimes pointless) forum posts. But I still say a fella otta be able to form around a 1 3/8" dowel rod.

Thanks, I did find that one back then Wiz (roughly 5 years back). Actually, I think of that whenever I see somebody doing a 45 minute video of stitching a belt Git 'er dun ... No wonder some o' these boys think a leather belt is a $100+ project.. they got 2 hours in stitchin' it!

OOPS.. that should say 92 to 207 thread

Sweet.. Nice color! You got more enery 'n' me, though.. I sew that avenger with no stops in the stitch (around the holster and up the belt slot all one thread).

OH were we including kydex? Well, then HUNDREDS of em. All same thickness, no marks or scratches to cut out or around, no dyeing, no drying, no oiling.... formed in SECONDS...

I"m with Constabulary. For what you describe, you're going to want something that sews with like 92 to 20 thread. A flat bed machine is likely fine, but if you can get that size range in a cylinder, some of them include removable work tables (or can be fitted with one) for extra versatility. And reverse is awesome

Yeah, something to be said for repetition -- and organization. I know I could put out more holsters if I didn't tool belts. Some time gets used up (not wasted, but used) putting these tools away and getting "those' tools out, and then back again. Even though the tools aren't actually moved, there is a shift in focus which does cause a bit of slow down - each time. True of most projects, but just using holsters as an example... certainly a guy can't do 5 holsters in a day, start to finish. Simply because they won't dry quickly enough.. the water, the oil, the finish, etc... all takes time. But a guy CAN cut out (or click) 20, mark as needed, add any snaps / springs / etc. Then day 2, glue, stitch, form Day 3.. oil / finish Day 4 package and ship. Doing this - or something like this - can comfortably work out to 5/ day average. Same thing with tooling belts. Cut strips, tips, mark sizing, pair with hardware, put up unused hides. Tool 4-5 Tool 4-5 Tool 4-5 Dye / stain / oil all 15 line and stitch all 15 pack n ship And there you have a 2-per-day tooled belt thing. Now, I'll stop talking about that - since it's been a good while since I got an order for 15 tooled belts, and it's incredibly upsetting

Leather people are funny, though they're not the only ones. Long speeches about how it's all "hand made" or "hand crafted". Then they spend thousands of dollars on machines and equipment and its - somehow - still "hand made" My personal opinion, if someone clicks out parts, machine stitches 'em, press forms 'em, then the 'hand made' is gone. With that happening, then the 'solo' person is doing the same thing as Galco or any other manufacturer.... but Galco (one example) just does it BETTER than they do. A clicker WOULD absolutely speed things up. Straight cuts can easily and quickly be made with a knife, strap cutter, etc., but the more curves involved the more the clicker will aid the process. The [possible] downside being that the more you try to conform your designs to fewer dies, the more alike they become, and soon your "gallery' of finished goods looks very 'cookie cutter' -- and there goes the 'hand made' scam. just a note, and a 'plug'... if you like the idea of clicking some parts, but not making holsters which look identical, see George B.'s site.. my opinion he does exactly that - and does it well. There really isn't all that much to holsters -- not that much in design, not much labor, not much expense. This is of course the reason there are SO many people making them -- it's cheap and easy. The more automated the process can be made, the more people will be jumping on that wagon. But, as for how many in a week... If I wasn't making a new design, or tooling a belt, or on the phone (or killing this time for coffee), then perhaps 30-35. That's a guess based on about 5-a-day (which I have done). Well, IF that chubby girl delivers to the post office for me .... and materials are delivered on time ...

0-1 gets pretty hard, pretty quickly.. but NOT known for corrosion resistance. We used to make "down and dirty" shop tools from it (like , you needed a particular size punch in a hurry) but not sure why an "experienced" knife maker would be using it. Better to go with an air hardening A- or even D- type steel.

That guy makes it look simple. I suppose we have to have another 5 pages if I say that what he did could have been done with about any kind of knife? I usually use a #11 x-acto for that

Is your holster really that thick?#@!@#!@#$!! There's a few ways to git around that if ya hafta. Simplest one is to make the holster 1/2" wider at the stitch line, stitch it up, then trim off the marks from the feet. Beyond that, a fella could move a couple bolts --- but I hate to be crowding the guy who "stands behind" those, so I'll let him answer that.

Scott said he got one (see post #14).