JLSleather

Good friends are worth more than fine gold ...

I don't do too much "solid color" stuff (otherwise, I'd just order the leather already that color). But I'm always "playing" with color ... the photo shows "night and day" colors of the same (Stohlman) design. The sun rises in the upper left - behind and to the left of the larger mountain. The first photo is at the crack of dawn .. the next several hours later at the same scene. That lady said her husband is "gone fishin" before she wakes up. Both received well. I have about 18 shades I use frequently - most a mixture of Fiebing's yellow, red, blue, green, dark brown. And I always write down what went in the mix ... made that mistake before where I mixed a shade of purple for some flowers this lady wanted on her handbag - then six months or so later she came back for the "matching" wallet and I had to 'trial and error' the thing to get the same shade again. Oh, yeah ... the photo to the left (under the member name) was done with Fiebing's dark brown, red, green, and ... wait - there's no "and" - just those three colors.

Irv - check out these links ... might be what you want. I remember a while back somebody around here (was it Kate?) was selling a "benchtop" model that looked like it would work. Forum post 'Nuther form post Google link, see p.98 for plans

I didn't forget about this, just had to order some stuff . Coming soon ...

Well, I really DO like to see 'em, but I've got some Osborne tools that work pretty well. Awls specifically, I ordered from 3 different places (one the Tandy down the road) and got CRAP that wouldn't cut anything. In the end, I had to GO to the store, bought a side of 6/7 oz cow, told the kid to show me the awls, and STABBED the hide which was already mine. I'm an obnoxious jerk (ask my wife), so when the kid's mouth fell open I explained to him that I spent $4,000 since buying those crap awls and blades, and the guys that sold them to me didn't get any of that money. Had they not produced an awl that GLIDES through 6/7, I would have stopped shopping there also. To be fair, I would have tried a second one in case some shopper had "buggered" that first one. Modern trend (I think) is to send the "buggered" ones to the guy who orders by mail

56 ... you had the right idea, ... it wasn't something YOU did wrong - they sold you some junk. Quite the trend these days, actually. I prefer to go to the store and SEE what I'm getting. 25 years ago I got everything through the mail. Can't do that any more. In the end, lots of suppliers these days trying to rest on a "warranty". If I got something sub-par from you once and you fixed the problem, fine. If I got crap from you more than that, I figure there's another place down the road that will have what I wanted. That's a nice story suppliers tell you about how you can return it if you're not happy, but I'd rather just buy from the guy who sends me stuff I don't need to return. From your post, I'm guessing you're a bit like me ... I want to get a fair price for a fair product. I don't care what your "reputation" is (I can buy a bunch of "fancy" ads, too). BP is a "trusted" supplier with years of "service". An awl blade should NOT bend. They're supposed to be tempered steel ... as in heat treated to resist wear - and tempered to relieve forming stress and resist breaking.

http://stleather.com/2008-P37.html Note that they haven't updated the prices on the web site ... the 2010 catalog lists this at $4.95/package. Mix the crystals with warm water. Just get one ... this is A LOT of stuff. Also, I think many make a mistake using this on EVERY project. Like that guy at the fishin' hole, once caught a nice walleye using a green jig - so now he wants to use a green jig all the time. Any time you re-wet leather, you risk losing some carving/forming definition. Use it sparingly, and only when needed. A pint of the stuff should last - oh - roughly forever. Someone will no doubt dispute this line of thought, but I can show you a dozen (easily) recent photos of leather that was extensively painted WITHOUT acid cleaning that shows no ill results.

Monica - Ohio has them on p. 183 of the hardware catalog here, and ... S-T has them on page 28 here. Any of those work for you?

Nice looking site, David. Loads quickly, easy on the eyes. One thought? If it ain't too much trouble from where yer at, I'd "swap" two photos in your gallery. Swap the 2nd row center (#8) with the dark one (#19). I honestly think the overall color scheme will balance better when looking at the gallery page. Nice work on the site AND the leather!

I was just a school kid when all that "gun control" stuff was going big. Saw a sign I never forgot ... "If guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns". Nuthin' wrong with a cold beer on a hot day, neither Neither should be given to a fool, and not both on the same day. Other than that, yer good.

This is good stuff, Bruce! How to do it, how to NOT do it. "We" need more of this kind of example. Personally, I don't even use those meander thingies, but the go/no-go example is valuable stuff that applies to about any stamping/carving. THANKS! Oh, and as long as I'm on this page ... nice looking saddle, D.A.!

Don't have the software to send you the pattern any more. New computer won't run the old AutoCad, and the new AutoCad is WAY too much money! But, we always made those belts 4" wide. Then taper the ends down to 3" (straight cut running 3"). Leave enough to fold over 4" past the buckle, which is a 3" roller buckle. Punch size 9 oval holes for the buckle, evenly spaced at 1" and 2". I like 11 holes ... spaced at 1" apart, middle hole is the waist size. Start the tapers 6" back from the center set of holes, and 6" back from the fold. This will give you a "balanced" looking belt, and yet leaves the belt 4" wide across the back and around the sides. Oh, yeah ... the size 9 oval punch can be punched (same 1" and 2" spacing across the belt) 3/4" each way from the fold, then cut straight between them to form the slots for the buckle. ROUND punch at 1-3/4" and 3" from the fold for CHICAGO SCREWS for the buckle (get FOUR nickel screws, to match the buckle). Length depends on the leather you're using. EXAMPLE: Our "small" is for a 34" waist. The buckle is 1" wide (inside), so you need 33" of belt to the middle hole. Adding the 5 "outside" holes gives you 38", leaving 3" past the holes looks good and gives you 41". I cut the billet end with a 1-1/2" radius, makes the end round. The 4" fold-over makes 45". SO THEN, the general rule is cut the outside layer 11" LONGER than the waist size. THEORETICALLY, the inside would then be 8" shorter, but I usually cut about 6" shorter and trim. NOTE ON LEATHER: If you're making 2-layer belts, "shoulder" leather will be fine (one layer pulls against the other). If you're making single layer belts, you'll want to use backs so minimize stretch. For "single layer" belts, 13 oz skirting is popular. For "lined" belts, use 2 layers of 8/9 oz. The inside layer will be 8" shorter than the outer, because it butts up to the 4" fold over, then stitch. I like to glue the layers, trim, then stitch. And, I "curve" the layers together, so it's got a curve when put together. Looks good, and fits good. Most of the "boys" at the gym like this many holes because they'll cinch it down when pushing, but they can back it way off and let it hang when between lifts or on the way home. Personal preference, maybe, but I always do all dyeing/oiling/whatever ... THEN punch the holes. Add a 1" wide leather "keeper" made of about 6 oz (if you're using 8/9, a piece of the thinner end is probably close enough for this). I'll try to put together some pics of this if you're interested. Let me know if this makes no sense at all, wouldn't be the first time Sorry, photos of these went in the old computer

This is nice. I'm generally not an "all black" guy, but this is nice!

And my baby girl just turned 2. Yes, that's my daughter, not my granddaughter. And the first boy scout goes to help me across the street is gittiin' his eye swelled shut

47 - for a couple more minutes. I'm still cute, but I USED to be incredible

I already commented, but having viewed it again, I must now say that I still like it

Here's my thing, Doug and all ... if you can buy a decent machine that does what you need it to at a bargain price, then do it. ONCE in the last year I paid more than I needed to ... couple of boys were gonna go clear the sidewalks at a freind's house I didn't have time to get to (she's 60-something, and stubborn, and WILL go shovel herself if you let her). Boys gave me a price that was HALF of reasonable, and I paid them the going rate anyway ... cuz they were kids and would later realize their price was WAY too cheap). I recommend that you insist on seeing it work and getting the manual. Many of the ads I see proclaim how you can download the manual, or it's "easy to get". Fine ... then let them download it or "get" it, and produce it with the machine. If you're buying a used vehicle, it's not the salesman's job to teach you to drive. But you'd still test drive it. You might even take it to a mechanic who knows more than you, and has all those fancy tools to diagnose it. I DON'T own the bigger boat my wife said we need (she's right) because the guy looked all offended that I wanted to put it on the lake and SEE it work. Sorry ... fancy signs and shiny web sites don't mean anything here.

I use Cobbler's Choice Cement, which I buy from S-T Leather. 20 years ago, it was half the price of the Barge's and worked well. Now it's about the same cost (at $13.95/qt) but I trust it so I still use it. Somebody said you could tear the leather trying to pull it apart, so I had to try .... they were right, you WON'T get it apart. And since I order other stuff there, it saves me time, trouble and shipping charges. S-T Leather Co P.O. Box 78188 St. Louis, MO 63178-8188 Phone: 314-241-6009 Fax: 314-241-8428

I must be the middle of the road guy, Doug. Maybe that's the same as being the odd man out, which wouldn't be new either Here's a couple thoughts, though... I still don't see the point of $5k (or even $3k) for a shiny new machine unless you're "all in" and know what you're getting is going to do what it's for (meaning you have to start with knowing what it's for). On the other hand, you can't learn the RIGHT way with the WRONG tools. When my biggest baby boy wanted to learn to play the guitar, I told him he'd need a Martin, or at least an Ovation. You can save money with the Walmart version, but you will get USED TO HEARING THE WRONG SOUND. When you hear the RIGHT one, you won't recognize it. I could rotate my tires with a jack and a vise-grip pliers, but chances are I'd have ruined lug nuts (and since the whole thing could slip, maybe the other nuts broken too). Sure, I'd "appreciate" the jack stands and impact wrench later, but I could have appreciated it NOW, and been done sooner and safer and with better results. Finally, speaking as a relatively old guy, I remember computers with 4k of Ram and 200 Mb disks. While I CAN appreciate this one (which is not state of the art by any means), sure woulda been nice to have this "back when". And I can't imagine trying to enter this long-winded musing with a machine that needs "adjusting" every time I start a new line. I could go on, but the truth is I'm not trying to talk anyone into or out of anything. Just some thoughts I've had. I personally was uninformed enough to put a few hundred $$ into an old Singer machine that does SOME stuff. I'm only getting my money out of it by sheer stubbornness. If I had it to do again, I would pass on buying it, just because it takes too long and uses too much space. Meanwhile, I'm still researching what machine I will buy ... and I been thinking about a bigger boat anchor anyway.

Clean without being "plain". Nice job, I like it.

I do find people are making their own gifts. Translation: not ordering them from me. I really don't know what you DO about it, but people really are concerned more about price than value. At a recent fair, my wife was directly across from a couple girls selling fabric handbags. 4 to 1 they went to look "over there", and of those 'over here" sometimes left upon hearing the price. Granted, couple of them girls WANTED a fabric bag, but most interested in just buying something without putting out much money. This guy I know sells walleye fishing tackle. Nobody buying the $50 tackle box, but a few bought $50 worth of smaller items (long as the bag was full for the $$). I see crafters (not all of us) who in my opinion have reacted to "tighter" customers by reducing quality, and thus reducing costs. Less quality for the same price. On the other end, I see this with suppliers as well. I don't currently own a decent sewing awl. I ordered one from 3 different suppliers (at more $$ than a good one should cost) and got 3 "bad" tools -- two dull and one was actually dented. I'm driving this weekend to the Tandy (which is closest for me) and I'm gonna wanna TEST an awl. THis is pathetic and should be unnecessary, but if they aren't willing to do it, or the awl won' t cut effortlessly, then I'm not buying it. While it may be more information than necessary for this forum, I'm DOWN about $3800 for 2010. Not cause for panic, but I'm always aware of where I'm at. I'm "making it" because my sweetie has a good job And I aim at the humorous side of it, but that's the truth of it. The lady who got the Mothers' Day handbag I posted was thrilled, and I'm sure I could have charged more than I did (her daughter paid). But, I don't "scrimp" or "cut corners" that shouldn't be cut, and I don't charge more "because I can". Somewhere in there it becomes a matter of personal integrity -- which you either have or you don't. This, perhaps, is all anyone can "DO" about it ... "police" yourself. If every one of us (crafters) rigidly adhered to superior quality and reasonable price, there would still be those shopping at the discount mall.

I used Neat-Lac a bit about 20 years ago, but found that it wasn't flexible. Tends to crack and "spiderweb" when flexed - even when thinned. I DO use the Saddle-Lac, though, not quite as high-sheen as the Neat-Lac, as it seems to flex well.

Very nice! This is NEW and DIFFERENT. Did I mention that we LIKE new and different? Suueee -- weeet! Wife snooping over my shoulder, she likes it too. I'm from here, and she's one o them Kiwis, so fans from 2 continents.

Simple Google search returned this ... Singer 97-10 Many agree that the 97-10 is the best threaded needle stitcher ever built. This will sew an honest 1" of leather. The presser foot lifts to 1 1/4" high. The machine also features a 10" throat. The 97-10 has a needle feed with a jump foot like the FERDINAND BULL. This extremely heavy duty machine is on a cast ion standing work height stand so you can get large goods into it.. 'Course, that don't say anything about the condition of the one you're looking at ...